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Photography The Sony Alpha Thread V21!, The Orange Legion

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shootkk
post Feb 13 2009, 11:24 AM

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QUOTE(seram @ Feb 13 2009, 11:04 AM)
hi guys need your opinion.. what is the best deal? get a new a700 body stick to kitlens or buy a 16-80mm Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* and stick to a100 body..
thanks alot tongue.gif
*
For me, I would save up a bit more for a Full Frame and the CZ 24-70mm F2.8, the 16-80 is nice but it's still a DT lens. Sorry, I kena FF poison bad so my next upgrade is FF or bust! My A100 will be the only cam until then, hehehehe.
shootkk
post Feb 13 2009, 11:58 AM

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QUOTE(seram @ Feb 13 2009, 11:37 AM)
hi shootkk thanks for the advise..
we have a same gear but upgrade from a100 to a900 with cz 24-70 is too muchh money spend aledi.. 9k for body and 6k for lens wow.. 15k
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Aiyah, slowly lar.... save first for the FF. May not be A900... who knows Sony may just intro a budget FF, hehehehehe. Then only save up for the CZ lor.... I have one FF lens that I can use - my KM50mm F/1.7
shootkk
post Feb 13 2009, 02:05 PM

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QUOTE(albnok @ Feb 13 2009, 01:24 PM)
shootkk, on one hand, you only have one full-frame lens.

On the other hand, you only have one APS-C lens. biggrin.gif
*
Like that 'ngam, ngam' lar...

I put the 50mm on the FF and it can take candid's with just right framing.
I put the 18-250 on the APS-C for wide angle
If push comes to shove, I put the 18-250 on the FF for better high ISO performance.
And the 50mm on the APS-C becomes and short telephoto that's good for portraits.

That's is until I get the 24-70mm.... THEN I will be clawing for a FF telephoto! tongue.gif

That's why my lens wishlist is just the 24-70 plus the 70-300. Coz that's all I'll need.

shootkk
post Feb 19 2009, 03:37 PM

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QUOTE(hkhk @ Feb 19 2009, 03:11 PM)
I just got a F58 and use it for my fren wedding in the 2nd day..
I found out that most of my photo are over saturated, my setting is "Vivid, +1, +1, +3". Bounce flash (60-90 degree) are used for all the photo.

This doesn't happen when I m using built in flash..
*
"Hmm.... control the flash, you must. Manual power set, you use. Trial and error... only then good results you will get..." quote Yoda... tongue.gif



I mean when using the external flash, try setting manual flash power to suit your environment. Test fire a few shots to get the optimal setting and then shoot. If you find you pics underexposed, then gradually increase flash power.

I do not understand what you mean by over saturated. Saturation means the colors of your pics. Are the colours too vivid? That's oversaturation and this is controlled by the creative styles and the flash has little effect on saturation. hmm.gif

If you mean the flash appears too powerful and wash out the picture (overexposure) then it could be a matter of the flash firing at full blast due to dirty hotshoe contacts between your cam and the F58. Try cleaning the contacts with a blue ink eraser and try the flash again to see if the problem is resolved. wink.gif
shootkk
post Feb 19 2009, 04:38 PM

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neo_lam : That's rather subjective! It depends entirely on how high the ceiling is. the higher it is the more power you will need to get a good exposure.

What I suggest is to fix your aperture and shutter speed first. Then set the flash to 1/8th power and flash zoom to 50mm. Test fire a few shots and see if the exposure is to your liking.

Then adjust flash power up or down accordingly. If your flash is already at full blast and you are still getting dark pictures, it is time to up your ISO settings.

Of course your angle of bounce is important too. Make sure your bounced light is actually hitting the subjects and not in front or behind them.
shootkk
post Feb 19 2009, 04:43 PM

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QUOTE(ryzan76 @ Feb 19 2009, 04:40 PM)
bro albert...
if i use flash and the head go up or left or right,my shutter speed just limit to 160.why this happen?what flash mode do or must i use if i want to use the flash with the head up,left or right... rclxub.gif  rclxub.gif  rclxub.gif  rclxub.gif

thanks
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When using bounce (ie. flash head not directly facing front) the max flash sync speed is 160. That's normal. To get higher shutter speed, you will need to point the flash head directly ahead for HSS to kick in or disconnect your flash from your cam completely. Wireless time! Yeah!
shootkk
post Feb 23 2009, 02:00 PM

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QUOTE(v1rtual @ Feb 23 2009, 01:53 PM)
from the link i gave, the specs do show it has live view
even have wifi built in laugh.gif
   
* body design similar to A700
    * 100% OVF (pentaprism bigger than A700)
    * 15.2Mp APS-C CMOS
    * ISO 200-6400 expandable to 100 & 12800
    * Quick LV
    * flippable back LCD
    * 6.5 frame per second
    * New high speed flash sync
    * 9 double cross f/2.8 AF sensor (23 total AF sensor)
    * New metering and AF sensor with tracking and previous focus
    * Dual AF Ultra-Speed motor ??
    * Wi-Fi built-in
    * Dual memory card slot CF & MS
    * New battery
    * A700 grip will be compatible
    * micro AF adjustment
    * full function eyestarter (pre-focus)
*
I dunwan APS-C!! I want FULL FRAME!! 12MP also enough ady!!!!
shootkk
post Mar 3 2009, 05:41 PM

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For all you guys debating about whether you want to get the 50 F1.7 or the new 50 F1.8 here's something for you to ponder on:

- The 50mm F1.7 is a FULL FRAME lens. Mounted on a full frame cam this will give you a view equivalent to a 35mm view on the APS-C cams.

- The new 50mm F1.8 is a DT lens for APS-C cams. You will not get the view like the 50mm F1.7 will give you on a full frame cam.

For those of you who wanna get an approximate view of how a 50mm is intended to look like on a full frame but have no plans to get a FF cam, you may opt for the 30mm DT lens. But then you cannot get the aperture to be bigger than F2.8

I will take the 50mm F1.7 anyday, thank you very much... oh wait... I already have the 50mm F1.7... hehehe...
shootkk
post Mar 3 2009, 11:38 PM

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QUOTE(AlphaBeta @ Mar 3 2009, 05:54 PM)
hey shootkk..my sifu... long time no see...  laugh.gif
btw wht do u think of SAL18250/16105/CZ1680/tammy1750? im so confused..
*
Ask me this question I have only 1 answer lor... the 18250 coz I am using one! Hehehehehe...

Anyway, it really depends on you lar... You want the Zeiss colours and sharpness then its the 1680 lor

You want constant aperture then the tammy lor...

You want sharpness but dun wan pay for CZ price then 16105 lor...

So what you want? smile.gif
shootkk
post Mar 4 2009, 11:50 PM

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Some pics taken around KLCC. Comments welcome.

1. Sunrise over the city
user posted image

2. Lights
user posted image

3. Twin towers against the evening sky
user posted image

4. Fading light in the sunset
user posted image

5. Fading light, another shot
user posted image


Busy minding the kids. No time to go shoot anything. Just shoot around the office only. cry.gif

Thanks for viewing.


shootkk
post Mar 5 2009, 05:53 PM

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QUOTE(selvenz @ Mar 5 2009, 05:39 PM)
actuall doing indoor shoot of finished renovation ( i work ID firm lahh) mostly our customers only allow us to shoot in the day
*
Then you most definitely need to use flash and more than one at that too!! Set up the flashes to light up the whole room and trigger them wirelessly!!!

But seriously, a flash will do wonders and is almost a pre-requisite if you're using the kitlens. You can use one flash wirelessly and place the flash to imitate/simulate sunlight by positioning it at different locations off camera.
shootkk
post Mar 6 2009, 09:11 AM

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QUOTE(Seng_Kiat @ Mar 6 2009, 07:02 AM)
Can you guys show the different between with and without flash. I seriously dont see any real different in shooting macro and outdoor. tongue.gif.
*
When using flash, the trick is not to have the flash usage become too obvious in your pic.

Some outdoor shots using wireless flash:

1.
user posted image

2.
user posted image

3.
user posted image

4.
user posted image


The last shot is done without flash. So if you compare no 4. with no. 2 which one looks better? WIth flash you can control the direction and intensity of the light to make your subject more interesting.

The 3rd pic if done without flash will just become a silhoutte or if you spot meter on the face, the background sky will blow out leaving a patch of white with little or no details.

That, my friends is the usage of flash.... smile.gif

This post has been edited by shootkk: Mar 6 2009, 09:14 AM
shootkk
post Mar 6 2009, 11:23 AM

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QUOTE(Seng_Kiat @ Mar 6 2009, 10:44 AM)
Ok. Nice explanation. I got it. smile.gif.

here come the question.. which should I get? .. biggrin.gif .. my situation, I have A300 with single kit lens + sigma 70-300mm (with Macro at 200-300). So, the question is, to get better picture quality for macro purpose, which one 1 buy 1st, a flash gun or a macro lens? I know, get both is the best but my budget says big big NO for it. tongue.gif.

A few pages back, a lot of peoples talking about flash, cobra, etc. What actually cobra can do that others can't? Thank you all. biggrin.gif.
*
If you're on a budget, then I would suggest you get the F42 flash and DIY an alien gun fix-on attachment for macro lighting. Just ask ryzan about the alien gun. The F42 can do wireless and you do not really need the strobe or the 'cobra' action of the F58 for macro.

Big question here is are you really into macro? If you are, then only consider getting a macro lens. For now use the Sigma to practice first.

If you are not on too tight a budget, then go for the F58 or cobra. icon_rolleyes.gif

Why is it called a cobra? Because the F58 can move its head and neck to the left and right just like a snake lor... this is more for portraiture shoots. Imagine the F58 facing you directly. The F58 can move 90 degrees left or right until the flash head plus the neck is like lying on its side either to the left or right. Other flashes need to have separate bracket to do that.

Hard to explain lar using words. Don't have picture.... sweat.gif

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