Haha... Still ok la... I used to stiff suspension

Guys i juz got my civic..and this is the 1st time i drive an Automatic car..and i noticed the RPM sometimes until 4.5(at gear 3) then change gear..why ar? I drive my Waja 1.6 i always change gears at 2.5rpm..

Yea... Malaysian don't know hire which survey company that reveals that nobody interested in driving manual... In case, many people wanted FD manual... = =

Polish Metal is nice...

The 1.8S-L is confirmed like VTi-L...

Hi guys,
Wana ask, after 1k milleage, below is my feel/problem :
1) stearing vibrate at 110km/h onwards ==> think n hope this is alignment prob
2) when accelerate, can feel the engine vibration on the paddle==>this shudnt happen rite? i hv a city, so far no prob...

so, any of u guys face this prob? any advice?

thanks...

Sure bo? Fake 1?

K&N Air Filter, K&N Air Intake, is it recommend to apply??

Did you also experience the slight loss in low end torque?

pls help me,newcomer here..
im interested in civic 1.8..going to buy the used one in a month..
my bdget will not exceeds 90k la..
search 4 civic white color  year 2007 or above..
izit better 4 me to get the standard one or alredi bikin punyer?
bcoz i want type-r@mugen bodykit la..any recomendations,n advise x?

It's actually more to do with two things, heat in the engine bay and (usually) larger diameter of the intake pipe of an open pod leading into the intake manifold. The stock pipes are usually more restrictive (smaller diameter), promoting higher air velocity that aids low end torque.

On my previous ride, a City iDSI, I experimented with various configurations, two of which were open pods. I found that open pods were good at higher revs but tended to be sluggish low down. The first one was a stainless steel mesh open pod without heat shield, the other one was an Apexi power intake with a custom built aluminum heat shield. The Apexi config was one of the best I ever had, but still couldn't compare to the stock intake system when it comes to instant throttle response in start-stop traffic situations and for climbing hills with lower revs. The open pod intakes gave me more power, but only if I cared to rev the engine past 3k rpm.

I don't think you got my meaning bro. At the low end of the revs, an engine needs a restricted intake pipe to increase air velocity (not density, cos density is more of an environmental issue, i.e., hot air or cold air). Once the engine has generated enough vacuum above a certain rpm it is then able to pull in a larger volume of air. That is why if your intake piping is larger than stock, you will find it troublesome to drive in regular traffic, as if the car has no power below a certain rpm, but once you go above it, you'll find that suddenly your car becomes more powerful than stock. But I do understand what you said about air density, which I already explained as being one of the two main reasons *not* to go for open pod. However, if you shield your pod properly and run a CAI system, the density argument would no longer hold water.

OTOH, the reason that the R18 engine of the FD1 uses a variable length intake manifold system; longer runners for low rpm and then at higher output switches over to shorter ones, is to try and get the best of both worlds. A more technical explanation can be found here: http://asia.vtec.net/Engines/R18A/index.html where the author talks about the different resonant frequency pulses generated by the engine's intake valves and how a variable length intake manifold helps to achieve optimum volumetric efficiency throughout the power band.

Many years ago on my old Mazda 626 Cronos V6 a type of variable intake system was already used, called VRIS or variable resonance induction system, which is probably similar to the one employed in the Honda R18 engine. A small bore, short stroke 2.0 V6 suffers from lack of low end torque, so the use of VRIS helped to alleviate that shortcoming to a certain extent for better driveability. Here's something I found on good ol' wiki
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mazda_K_engine