If you serious on ICE, ditch out the rear speaker. The simplest setup (cheapest) are:
HU -> 4 ch amp 2 channel for front component, bridge the other two for subwoofer.
*Proton CPS club V3.99, First page UPDATED!!!
*Proton CPS club V3.99, First page UPDATED!!!
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Feb 5 2009, 11:42 PM
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#41
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If you serious on ICE, ditch out the rear speaker. The simplest setup (cheapest) are:
HU -> 4 ch amp 2 channel for front component, bridge the other two for subwoofer. |
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Feb 5 2009, 11:50 PM
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#42
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If really want bass, add a sub. Get those with built in amp. Can get for 300++ 'ayam brand'.
Added on February 5, 2009, 11:51 pm QUOTE(NaShRiCk @ Feb 5 2009, 11:48 PM) YES (what you expect in a CPS thread) Neo CPS will be coming soon. Donno when. This post has been edited by sphiroth: Feb 5 2009, 11:51 PM |
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Feb 5 2009, 11:56 PM
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#43
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Feb 6 2009, 12:01 AM
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#44
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Feb 6 2009, 12:27 PM
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#45
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QUOTE(lordragos @ Feb 6 2009, 12:26 PM) jctasoga... err. just asking if car got a little scratch can claim for paintjob or not ha? It uses ultasonic sound (high frequency) to detect movement in your car.for the wind noise, is your problem is when drive more than 110km/h you'll hear it? If this is true than I need to send my car to the same SC as you... I usually send my car to SC in Tmn. Maju since it's near to my house.. may I know where and how much does it cost you to install the sonic sensors? err.. what's sonic sensor anyway? |
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Feb 6 2009, 02:39 PM
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#46
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Feb 6 2009, 07:38 PM
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#47
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QUOTE(zenwarlord @ Feb 6 2009, 02:56 PM) Thanks for update, to our term of component set is Speaker + Tweeter + Crossover. Actually the proper term is 'seperate component', where each of the sound component are played on a seperate speaker. BTW, anyone interested to buy my Clarion Amp 360W 4 channel? RM300 used for testing speaker & HU (3 weeks only). |
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Feb 6 2009, 10:11 PM
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#48
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QUOTE(jctasoga @ Feb 6 2009, 10:08 PM) aiyoh... nvm la.. separate or not.. its a combination of speakers n tweeters.. component set if you really wanna do ICE, never take those 2 way, 3way 6x9 etc. Each frequency of sound should be played only on a specified speaker, else the sound will become muddy.btw, there are 3 or 4-way component sets with 2 tweeters n 2 x mids controlled by a x-over? i haven really seen one yet. mostly are single mid + single tweeter + x-over. keep 'icing'.. eujinee, wat spark plug u changed to? normally i would juz change the spark plug every 5k service or 10k service with my last wira. i'm thinking doing the same for my waja as well. wats the part number for the spark plug on CPS waja? if installed not compatible ones, will it cause electrical interference? i've gone through tat once in my old wira.. messed up my entire auto-lock and the timing... got pinging n knocking in one package.. haha.. after changed back to ori part number spark plug, then everything ok liao. any inputs in this sector will be nice. also, wanna talk abt handling as well. feel the ori waja very like to do excessive body-roll.. haha.. maybe coz the car is taller than wira.... higher profile tires (ori 60series tyres)... wat to install first? the front strut bars? BTW, just done the shortshifter upgrade. |
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Feb 6 2009, 10:21 PM
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#49
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QUOTE(jctasoga @ Feb 6 2009, 10:17 PM) No point putiing pic, same as standard. The mod invlove cutting and welding of the lever part just outside the GB to move the pivotal point. Feels really good as the throw is shorter. Takes 4 hours to get it done though. |
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Feb 6 2009, 11:36 PM
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#50
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QUOTE(eujinee @ Feb 6 2009, 11:32 PM) normal plugs is good for every 20k la bro...no nid to changed tht often.. Agreed. Spring 1st, when damper 'kong' change to short stoke ones. Or straight away change to adjustable. i changed to denso iridium rm185 for 4 plugs.... sparkplug part number for cps i think is IT20 or something..is same as campro..u can notice there is no washer rings....is different thn mitsu engine plugs....remember tht... i dun understand y plugs can coz electrical interference....but anyway...im sure the sifu here can help u bro.. Handling wise leh....ori will roll quite abit during corners....try lowered the car 1st and add 3 point front struts to increase ur handling.... im using Tein dress up master and UR 3 point struts...trust me..it improved dramatically.... Added on February 6, 2009, 11:33 pm poison ...poison....but mine auto....already auto shift....hahahhaha..so u engage the gear faster ritez.... When done with suspension, can start adding bars. Strut bar is a must. If got budget, can add fender bar, then rear, then under carriage, then ARB, the room bar, or get a rollcage Added on February 6, 2009, 11:39 pm QUOTE(eujinee @ Feb 6 2009, 11:32 PM) Added on February 6, 2009, 11:33 pm poison ...poison....but mine auto....already auto shift....hahahhaha..so u engage the gear faster ritez.... This post has been edited by sphiroth: Feb 6 2009, 11:39 PM |
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Feb 7 2009, 11:46 AM
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#51
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QUOTE(laytiong @ Feb 7 2009, 10:55 AM) the standard clarion is good enuff for me. it has 4 pre-amp out which i use the rear ones for my 12' cheapo amp from my prev waja. it also has a aux-in input which i use to hook up to my PDA or ipod to listen to songs. Changing caps will make your tweeter 'kong' faster.my ICE installer has replaced the capacitors on my tweeter to give it a more mellow sound. not so harsh and sharp. sounds much better. infact i have no plans of changing the HU cause it plays M=mp3 and wma files. Problem is it cant do search function nia. plugs dun do much diff. my prev mitu waja running on stock then denso iridium and finally ngk Gpower plugs. FC same, response same, only diff is pocket sakit. and not to mention the denso plugs dun last long. only 60k kms before the electrode breaks off. Adding a 3 pt UR bar does not make much diff also. my next mod is to wait for RACE to produce full set CPS exhaust and I'll grab one. The shifter i'm fine with what i have now, i plan for REAL performance gains. LCP will be next after exhaust and filter. As for springs I plan on going for R3 ones. QUOTE(loong2020 @ Feb 7 2009, 11:05 AM) wah...really ah use better spark plugs dosent improve??...i thought using better spark plugs can help improve in FC, pickup and better respond.. True, but very minimal. |
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Feb 7 2009, 05:36 PM
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#52
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QUOTE(jctasoga @ Feb 7 2009, 02:46 PM) my last time my wira also got install caps/resistors to limit the frequency (or so i heard from the boss). it sort of like play until certain volume then cut off. wonder if its the same caps/resistors tat laytiong is talking abt? at the moment, i haven do the capping thing on my current setup but i will do it soon to get rid of the noise at high pitch (coz the ori tweeters are not performing well). ICE is according to owner taste n everyone's budget setup. no right or wrong wan. just get something ur ears are fine to listen to. some like loud, some like soft, some like bang bang bang, some like pom pom pom... QUOTE(eujinee @ Feb 7 2009, 03:26 PM) Both resistor and caps (conenected in parallel) are use to cut off (block) mid and low frequency from entering the tweeter. Depending on the values of both components, it can be adjusted to cut-off certain frequency. |
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Feb 7 2009, 11:29 PM
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#53
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QUOTE(loong2020 @ Feb 7 2009, 11:02 PM) erm..to overcome body roll....install anti roll bar 1st...then only front strut and rear strut... No point having all those bars if you use 55 or 60 series tyres. And please don't use Silverstone. Get Yoko or Falken. |
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Feb 8 2009, 09:39 AM
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#54
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QUOTE(jctasoga @ Feb 8 2009, 09:25 AM) faalken r nice tyres series 522 and 912. god ones. Falken 912 is actually better than Yoko A-Drive R1 (from my experience).silverstone i avoid like a plague. michelin is ok too. toyo proxes is good at wet n dry. but problem is short life span of 20000km. t1-r was the model. 6 yrs ago already. gets noisy after 10k kms. but still has good grip. |
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Feb 8 2009, 03:19 PM
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QUOTE(jctasoga @ Feb 8 2009, 10:13 AM) installed 912 for 5 days on my older wira n drove it around before giving the car to my younger bro. he untung. the 912 is a good grip tyres too but hard to say after a few thousand km drive. Its actually not inside the GB, more like linkage to the GB. Thus no need to change the GB oil.however, its definitely worth the rm190 i paid for 195/55/15r. free alignment + balancing for buying 4 pcs of rims.. totally burnt rm1400 for that set including buy back of ori 14" rims n falken 322 30% left tyres. how's ur short shifter? saw a pic in the waja forum. tats inside the GB like u mentioned rite? one seems to be the clutching gear and the other dunno wat is it. so you need to change the gear oil too? |
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Feb 8 2009, 10:06 PM
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#56
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QUOTE(loong2020 @ Feb 8 2009, 09:28 PM) so meaning 50series, the car is much much lower then 60series??.....right now im using continental comfort...i also whack corners using dat tyres....so far ok..la....MVX8 heard good for cornering..some ppl say..now also Correct. Your car will be lower. |
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Feb 8 2009, 11:00 PM
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#57
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Feb 9 2009, 12:58 PM
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#58
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QUOTE(jctasoga @ Feb 8 2009, 11:14 PM) AFAIK, most tyres now comes with at least 4 gutters like falken 912. then followed by minor thread along each gutter. this is suppose to help with the water dispersion and also the smaller threads will quieten down the tyre noise when driven at high speeds. Falken 912 has poor traction (not grip) in the wet. Especially when I try to drag in the 1st gear.anyhow, however good the tyres still dun speed in the wet. keep safe distance. happy driving |
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Feb 9 2009, 06:55 PM
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#59
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Feb 9 2009, 08:00 PM
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QUOTE(jctasoga @ Feb 9 2009, 07:08 PM) i prefer the 2nd opinion... Even in dry, you will get whellspin if you pedal to metal in 1st gear, sometimes in 2nd gear also. but i think you are right. even the ori good year nct5 alsonot good traction using 1st gear... can really spin the wheels if u pedal to the metal during throttling... hehehe... i think its not tat good for the gearbox though.. sigh.. Added on February 9, 2009, 7:10 pmcalling laytiong...how much was the steering rack bush from super pro? wanted to get a pair of it and install outside... can help to buy it for me? |
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