Hi everyone.

I have grown bored with buying ready-made office pants e.g. G2000 and thinking of getting them tailored. Which tailor would you guys recommend and why? I have read some pages in this thread and it seems like you guys are talking about suits and shirts. What about tailored pant without the jacket?

Also, what are the things that I should know and consider? I am very new to this...

Thank you very much!!

I have a question on tailored pants.

Is fitting necessary? I was asked to do fitting but told my tailor that I am only able to attend some time on mid September. Then, the other guy measure me up and they told me that no fitting is necessary. Is this your experience with tailored pants as well?

Thanks!

Care to elaborate more? Did you mean there is no need for a fitting session for tailored trousers?

Dear all,

I wonder what is the right length for trousers. I mean should we ask the tailor to measure the length until it reaches our ankle, heel or else? What are the tips that you have when going for measurements/alterations e.g. wearing the dress shoes etc. so that the tailor can measure it correctly?

Currently, I like to have it an inch longer below my ankle because I hate the feeling of "hanging" trousers when I walk. I also don't like to have my trousers expose some skin when I sit, which is normally the case if the length is not long enough. However, this will give me some creases at bottom of the trousers when I stand up straight. Is this acceptable?

I notice that the trend is to have it measured so that there is no crease. Is this the right length from bespoke point of view? If I were to do this, I reckon that I have to deal with the feeling of hanging trousers when I walk and most probably show some skin when I sit. How do you deal with it?

Thanks!

Thanks!

I have never seen anyone wearing such socks before. Could it be that I am working in a more conservative workplace?

Hi,

I have a couple of questions:
1. Refer to the attachment, what does this mean: 60"? I have also seen 120". Is this refers to thread per inch where the higher the number, the better it is?

2. What are the criteria you look for when choosing good material for trousers?

Thank you.

Is this a joke or what?
AA Tailor

Where on earth is this AA Tailor located?

Gentlemen,

How do you clean your bespoked shirts & trousers?

Previously, I have no problem asking my gf to dry clean it for me since she only pay a fixed amount of RM50 / month to a laundry at her place. These days, I can't risk placing one week clothes in her hand as I might not get it back! I ask laundries nearby my area and they quoted RM6-RM7 per shirt for dry cleaning. Is this a normal rate?

Or do you hand-wash them?

--------------------------------------------

Cheenoo,
Nice. Can you PM me your tailor?

i was thinking machine wash would damage the fabrics.
another thing is that i dont really enjoy ironing my shirts afterward.

which is the lesser evil, machine wash or dry cleaning?

Thanks, bloke1!
How do you ensure your shirts don't crumple and look crisp?
Mind telling me the fabric type?

-------------------------------------

Hope you gentlemen can comment on my hand wash technique:
- Detergent choice
As I understand it, liquid detergent is better. But from my experience, washing powder works like charm too.

- Water temperature
Used to be warm but after reading on the net, suggested to go cold.

- Soaking period
What is the ideal period for this? <1 day? <1 hour?

- Brushing

- Rinse with water

- Soak in softener
Yeah, if not too lazy.

- Drying
Dryer must not be used, so hang them outside under indirect sun.
No wringing as well.

Anything else to add?

This process makes me appreciate ppl who do my laundries.

Yes, I remember now the youtube video that I watched previously was TM Lewin's!
Thanks but sincerely hope u cud get over with ur napoleon complex though. Hehe..

From StyleForum.

Laundry and Stain Removal Guide
Fine Shirt Care...Proper Laundering & Pressing
authored by Alex Kabbaz and Pauline Young.

Shirt Laundering
Following just these few simple procedures will greatly extend the life of your fine cotton shirts as well as insuring cleanliness and a neat appearance. Proper technique requires a two-day cycle.
On the first day, you'll need a bar of Kirkman Borax or Octagon Bar Soap, available from your local grocer, and a fingernail brush. Wet the Collar, Collar Band, Cuffs, and underarm area. Rub with the bar soap on the underarm area and inside Cuffs until a bit of lather develops. Rub also on the Inside Collar Band and the seam where it joins with the Collar. Then, on the Collar Band and inside Cuffs, scrub the dirt ring gently with the fingernail brush until you begin to see the ring leaving. Check the remainder of the shirt for spots or soil. If any are found, rub with the brown soap as above. If any stain is found which does not remove with the Kirkman Soap, see the Stain Removal Guide at the end of this page.
Finally, roll up the wet, soapy shirt and leave overnight in a plastic bag in order that it will remain moist.
The following day, machine wash as follows;
Whites
Hot Water
Gentle Cycle
Colors
Warm Water
Gentle Cycle

After testing many detergents, Tide Unscented Powder has been found to offer the best results for fine cotton shirts. After cycle is complete, tumble dry on 'No Heat' setting until shirts are just damp. Or, if you have the facilities, line dry outside until just damp. Hang on a white plastic hanger.
Laundering Hints

* Do not use bleach! Do not use starch! Do not use fabric softeners!
* Allowing the shirt to oak overnight reduces the amount of scrubbing needed to remove soil, therefore reducing wear. The longer it is permitted to soak, the better the results.
* Sleeves tend to tangle in the washer, reducing the ability of the soak cycles to remove detergent. Adding a couple of white towels to small loads will help to reduce this problem. If soap remains in the shirt, it will brown when pressed. Wash again without detergent if you suspect this to be the case.

Shirt Ironing
The Shirt should be damp all over. Use either Steam or Dry Iron. Use the 'Cotton' temperature setting. The 'Burst of Steam' button is not recommended. Best is a water mister spray bottle(plant mister).

* 1 - Press cuffs open flat, first on the inside, then lightly on the outside. S-t-r-e-t-c-h tightly while pressing. Be gentle with the corners of the cuffs. Try not to catch them in the steam holes on the iron as this is a major cause of premature fraying.
* 2 - Press the sleeves' plackets. Button their button. Then: Button Cuffs Button the button of the previously pressed cuff. Using your hands, shape the cuffs into a circle. Do not crease button cuffs. French Cuffs Fold and press in the fold, carefully matching the link holes. Shape with your hand to a circular shape. Secure circle with a plastic stud or white plastic twist-tie.
* 3 - Holding the sleeve at the seam side(under the arm) grasp seam at underarm and cuff ends. Shake the sleeve out and lay flat on the pressing table with the seam near you. Place the point of the iron on the seam at the cuff end. Holding the seam at the underarm, stretch very tightly and press the seam flat with no puckers. Holding the seam with one hand, smooth the sleeve away from you, removing all wrinkles from both top and bottom layers. Repeat this smoothing motion using the iron. Continue right off the sleeve, pressing in the crease at the top of the sleeve. Press in the pleats, if any, at the cuff end. One should match the top-of-sleeve crease.
* 4 - Place left hand just inside the left armhole and use the right to grasp the shirt at the hem where the left front and back join. Shake out and lay flat on the table. Press this side seam flat while stretching. On the inside of the rear armhole, press flat the seam which joins the sleeve to the shirt body. Do not stretch this seam too tightly. Repeat for the other side, reversing your hands.
* 5 - Lay the top center front (buttonhole side) face down on the table. Holding the top with your hand and the hem with the iron, stretch very tightly and press heavily twice. Repeat for the button side, pressing around the buttons. Turn each side face up and repress. Do not press the buttons as they can break.
* 6 - Hold the button side of the front at hem and collar. Shake out and lay face down. Press on the inside, paying particular attention to the top area where the collar, yoke, and front join together. Repeat for the buttonhole side.
* 7 - Press the shirt yokes on the inside. Then, using the point of the ironing board or corner of the table, press flat on the outside.
* 8 - Lay the shirt on its back, wrong side up. Press the back with steam. If there are darts, press them towards the side seams.
* 9 - Lay the collar band, inside up, flat on the table. Stretching very, very tightly, press from buttonhole to button. Turn over and repeat. Then press the underside of the collar, again stretching tightly. Do not have the iron on the band and collar at the same time.
* 10 - Turn over and press lightly on the top side of the collar. Do not catch the collar points in the steam holes, again a major cause of fraying. Now fold down the collar over the band and press in the crease as heavily as you can.
* 11 - Press the fronts again, this time lightly on the outside. Put in the collar stays and hang the shirt on a hanger. Button all of the buttons on the front of the shirt.

Helpful Hints
* For best results, you should have available either a firmly mounted ironing board or a flat pressing table with a separate sleeve board. In all cases, pressing surfaces should be covered with white cotton fabric and maintained lint-free.
* A small pair of sharp scissors for removing loose threads is helpful. Additionally, a small, damp piece of white fabric will assist in removing small dirt spots.
* Should you press in a wrinkle, allow the area to cool. Then dampen and re-press. When hanging shirts in the closet, make sure there is sufficient room to keep them from crushing each other's carefully pressed collar. Store two shirts back-to-back, then a space , then two more back-to-back shirts, etc.

Stain Removal Guide
* Stain Removal Supplies Store Safely Away From Children!
* Drycleaning Solvent Available in grocery or drug stores;can be poisonous and/or flammable. Do Not Breathe fumes. Never dry in dryer!
* Dry Spotter Mix 1 part Coconut Oil with 8 parts Drycleaning Solvent
* Wet Spotter Mix 1 part Glycerine (available in drug stores), 1 part Liquid Dishwashing Detergent, 8 parts water...Shake well before use
* White Vinegar, Clorox Bleach, Ammonia, Hydrogen Peroxide, Tide
* Crayon, Make-Up, Grease, Mascara, Oil, Paint, Shoe Polish Sponge with drycleaning solvent. Apply dry spotter and cover with absorbent pad soaked in dry spotter. Remove pad. Flush with drycleaning solvent. Repeat until pad comes away clean. Allow to dry. Sponge with water. Apply wet spotter & a few drops of ammonia and cover with pad soaked in wet spotter. Remove pad. Repeat until pad comes up clean. Flush with water, wash with Kirkman Soap. Wash normally in machine.
* Catsup, Cheese, Chocolate, Gravy, Dairy & Food Products Same as above procedure Except substitute liquid dishwashing detergent for wet spotter. Before washing, soak 30 minutes in solution of Tide and water. For chocolate, bleach with Hydrogen Peroxide for 5 minutes.
* Blood, Body Fluids, Vomit, Organic Stains Soak in solution of 1 quart warm water, 1/2 tsp. liq. dish detergent, and 1 tbsp. ammonia for 15 minutes. Repeat. Soak in 1 quart warm water with 1 tbsp tide for 30 minutes. Rub with Kirkman soap and keep moist. For blood, use hydrogen peroxide. Then wash normally in machine.
* Rust, Ballpoint Ink, Grass, Scorch - Call Your Shirtmaker! For all final machine washes of stains, all one capful of white vinegar.

Is split yoke on small check shirts impossible or the tailor is not skilled enough?
Lines do not intersect correctly



This post has been edited by new[x]: Apr 18 2011, 10:47 PM

Gentlemen,

Can darted back shirt be undarted back?
Any effect on the fabric?

Thanks!

I grew tired of Fit & Match's workmanship.
Lose threads are everywhere.

Does anyone know any tailor that don't employ foreign worker(s) to custom-made your ~RM300 dress shirt?

Trousers cuff looks good if u hv a pair of long legs.

Are u guys homo? LOL.

Gentlemen,

Let's not spoil the market.

Please tell us what is supposed to be a competitive price for a canvassed suit using tailor's materials. This way nobody will pay ridiculous amount of money and us customers have better idea on how much grams of gold to pay.

I would do this at my own tailor. Just that he won't accept any walk-in customers so can't recommend him to you.

You may want to try Za Altera.




P/S: All, where is this guy kotmj? Does he get banned or what? No, I don't miss him, just curious.

RM45 to me is cheap.
I can't speak of others.