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> The Tailoring Thread, Bespoke. Nothing beats a perfect fit

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marquis
post Apr 21 2015, 05:56 PM

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Guys, need advice on getting a DB. I have OTR two and three buttons, but would like a bespoke DB for my wedding which is happening in Sept. I assume there's enough time to commission one...right?

Here's what I do know:

1) Tailor: Read good (and bad) stuff regarding Ah Loke and Jeremy Tok.

Those that have gone to both, which is recommended?

2) Cloth: Mohair Wool blend. I've read that this is the material to use for our humid weather. Where do I source for this locally? Is it even possible? I've also read that Harrisons offer a good bang for your buck. Frontier or Lesser. I'm still quite clueless regarding this.

On a side note, should I just go with what the tailors have instead of bringing my own cloth?

3) Half-canvassed (I know people at Kerbau says there isn't such a thing). I'm afraid of posting there tbh. Information overload. I need to work on my basics first before I dare (sic) thread there laugh.gif

Some questions:
1) Does anyone know how much ALT charges for a Half-canvassed, DB nowadays?
2) Should I bring my own cloth?
3) If yes to above, where can I source for them locally? I tried this local fashion blogger, but email got bounced. Am I stuck with sourcing from ebay?
4) If I do a whole lock, stock from the tailor, how much would I expect to spend for the tailoring and cloth?
5) I've read a bit about lining and found some photos of very pretty linings. Where does one go to acquire this? Would a visit to Jackal/Kamdar/etc suffice?

My budget is circa 2k. Is that too low for what I'm expecting?

Thanks! smile.gif
marquis
post Apr 22 2015, 10:43 AM

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QUOTE(fuzzy @ Apr 21 2015, 08:24 PM)
No experience with ALT, but mine was done with Jeremy. I had a couple of other experiences with smaller so called "old school" houses which I can only extrapolate to ALT's style.

Jeremy was very knowledgeable, patient and most importantly to me, was willing to share on what might or might not work on my piece. This is because I was pretty apathetic to this all and would have just followed whatever a tailor will say.

This was exactly what happened with a friend's suit which was done in a tailor at 1U and the result was this:

user posted image

A fused piece with that being told is the appropriate length, refusal to do working buttons and the advise that one should button all the buttons when your photo is being taken. It cost him more than 2k. 

Looking back I'm pretty grateful for JT's guidance and his perfectionist view on his pieces because the flexibility and knowledge meant I was able to consider the pro and cons of a certain cut (i.e. advantages and cons of having pleats) then decide which to go for. He was also quite willing, if not extremely interested to try on the more unusual or interesting style that I'm not sure if ALT would offer / agree from the past stories I've heard.

If you're a deadbrain at this like me, would recommend Jeremy's.
*
Oh dear. That's quite a horror story you have there. Does the store name perhaps rhyme with Ford?

Re-read his website (JT I mean) and found that he does a whole one-stop.

I'm guessing at this point, it's better for him to guide me with the cloth and what not, rather than to bring my own.

Questions:

1) Does his price listed on his site include the cloth, or is that for workmanship alone? If the latter, how much am I looking at to make a full suit?
2) His Fused is actually a half-canvassed...right? Since he mentions using a horse hair chest piece. Or should I specify this to him?

QUOTE(deriku @ Apr 21 2015, 09:47 PM)
Go for JT. Better if you can touch and feel the cloth since this will be a special suit. Good luck.
*
Thanks. You're the third person to say this now. Guess I should drop him a line.
marquis
post Apr 22 2015, 01:07 PM

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QUOTE(fuzzy @ Apr 22 2015, 10:49 AM)
I can't remember the name, but I'd say it is near 1U JJ area  whistling.gif

1) I'm not sure if his brochure have changed, but with me, it was inclusive of material though you can opt to choose better one at a different price or get your own cloth.

2) Yes, you choose either half or full canvassed.
*
Much obliged, kind sir.

Will be sending him an email...I think that's more appropriate then sending him a pm here. I just connected the dots (with a help from a friend) on whom he is here laugh.gif

Should've known though

QUOTE(shauno @ Apr 22 2015, 12:05 PM)
he'll bite when you ask him for a "half canvassed" =p

i've gone to both ALT and JT before. The main difference is that you need to give ALT some direction. he's been in the business for a long time, and sometimes what was good 15-20 years ago might not necessarily translate to what's good today.

That being said, i believe ALT is slightly cheaper than JT, but for 2k, you should be able to get something from either of them quite comfortably. no full canvassed tho. those cost quite a bit more.

In fact, with 2k, I think you can also check out Bespoked in 1u. Heard good things about them too!
*
*gulp* Will be sure not to mention half canvassed to him then. His persona over at Kerbau seems very...scary sweat.gif Deep respect on his know-how though.

Many thanks for the input. I think I'm set on going with JT. Will discuss with fiancee and get in touch with JT. I'm not in the position to be giving good direction (if any) and would need a guiding hand myself. I know very little when it comes to commissioning a suit/jacket, let alone a DB.

Not too keen on Bespoked tbh - fair enough, read some good things about them - also read some pretty horrible things about them. Besides, would rather someone I know - albeit it's from a distance, electronically, without said person knowing myself laugh.gif

Thanks again. These comments (by yourself and fuzzy) was exactly what I needed in helping to decide. This way, I can stop my research on sourcing for the cloth. Yay!
marquis
post Jul 13 2021, 10:54 PM

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QUOTE(studentsurvey @ Jul 12 2021, 02:55 PM)
Ah, cool! Thank you for this..
*
Chiming in for uncle Ray. He’s a brilliant guy.

He’s more in favour of more reserved cuts though. So if you want a higher break for your trousers, he will try to recommend something more traditional. As long as what you’re asking him isn’t too absurd, he’ll rethink it and see if it’ll fit the suit, your body type, and the general look of what your asking for.

He gives good advice…so listen to him. Unless you absolutely now what you’re going for. If you fight with him about every decision…he’ll just not bother advising you anymore. A story he shared with me.

Oh. Did three fittings before finalising my suit.

He was recommended by a family friend, fwiw. Also, those old timers from Sungei Wang would know of this shop. They used to have a branch there

 

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