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 The Tailoring Thread, Bespoke. Nothing beats a perfect fit

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kotmj
post Mar 25 2010, 09:32 AM

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I shall be getting my non-fused shirt today...


Added on March 25, 2010, 11:57 ammalutapimau, where did you get the linen from and for how much?

I was at EuroModa (pink building) and they were selling trousering linen for RM100 after discount. I am seriously considering having a linen sportscoat made. I wore my ALT kid mohair suit jacket as an odd jacket yesterday with jeans and a girl asked me if i run my own company... i need more sportscoats

This post has been edited by kotmj: Mar 25 2010, 11:57 AM
malutapimau
post Mar 25 2010, 09:42 PM

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QUOTE(crapoccur @ Mar 24 2010, 11:43 PM)
malutapimau, the linen looks rough, is it pure linen? if it isn't how many % linen?
*
not pure linen,,,,i think its 0%linen, 100% poly (hik!) its coarse texture has an advantange actually e.g you can get used wearing a rough pant for your future unlined rough wool / kid mohair pants (hik!)

QUOTE(kotmj @ Mar 25 2010, 09:32 AM)
I shall be getting my non-fused shirt today...

do update us,,,, i already have all things needed for my non-fused shirt project----

non fusible interlining

user posted image

cotton + buttons
user posted image


Added on March 25, 2010, 11:57 ammalutapimau, where did you get the linen from and for how much?

rm7/mtr at kamdar,,,,,cheap stuffs

I was at EuroModa (pink building) and they were selling trousering linen for RM100 after discount. I am seriously considering having a linen sportscoat made. I wore my ALT kid mohair suit jacket as an odd jacket yesterday with jeans and a girl asked me if i run my own company... i need more sportscoats
*
go for it,,,you sure the girl response was because of your outfit and not for the way you talk? (hik!) oh, have you take a look at harrisons? nice selection of linens too
crapoccur
post Mar 25 2010, 11:14 PM

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Hey, where did u get that herringbone fabric? 100% cotton i presume?


Added on March 25, 2010, 11:16 pmoh,bout the linen, lol

This post has been edited by crapoccur: Mar 25 2010, 11:16 PM
malutapimau
post Mar 25 2010, 11:40 PM

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got it from silk street,,,i think its 2ply s80's cotton

This post has been edited by malutapimau: Mar 25 2010, 11:42 PM
douchebag2
post Mar 26 2010, 02:20 AM

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I just fell in love with a new tailor.

I walked in and ordered a shirt, he was kind enough to spend an hour and a half talking to me. We talk about dressing in general and his previous accomplishments (he does shirts for the CEO of Merryl Lynch APAC, Directors of DBS, OCBC and for Megawati's (ex-president of Indonesia) husband).

He asked me what industry i worked in, and he kindly gave me a few pointers. He was pretty straight forward and I appreciated it, he nicely told me that my full windsor knot is crap and that i should tie a half windsor.

He told me my shoes was too "fashionable" (too pointy he reckon) for my industry, and other minor things.

He was brave enough while measuring me up to touch my sweaty underarms, not once or twice but three freaking times.

He's been in the business for 40 odd years. Started when he was 16, learn everything from his dad. nod.gif
malutapimau
post Mar 26 2010, 08:44 AM

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how about the charge? isit premium?
kotmj
post Mar 26 2010, 05:35 PM

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QUOTE(douchebag2 @ Mar 26 2010, 02:20 AM)
I just fell in love with a new tailor.

I walked in and ordered a shirt, he was kind enough to spend an hour and a half talking to me. We talk about dressing in general and his previous accomplishments (he does shirts for the CEO of Merryl Lynch APAC, Directors of DBS, OCBC and  for Megawati's (ex-president of Indonesia) husband).

He asked me what industry i worked in, and he kindly gave me a few pointers. He was pretty straight forward and I appreciated it, he nicely told me that my full windsor knot is crap and that i should tie a half windsor.

He told me my shoes was too "fashionable" (too pointy he reckon) for my industry, and other minor things.

He was brave enough while measuring me up to touch my sweaty underarms, not once or twice but three freaking times.

He's been in the business for 40 odd years. Started when he was 16, learn everything from his dad.  nod.gif
*
Get yourself to P.Lal for irreproachable shoes.


Added on March 26, 2010, 5:38 pmWell the non-fused shirt arrived today, not yesterday. It looks good. Shall wear it over the weekend.


Added on March 26, 2010, 6:49 pmI'm still in the office but I changed into my new shirt anyway. Couldn't wait! Here are the first impressions:

This is no slim fit shirt. Generously cut everywhere, especially the sleeves. Armholes are lower than ALT and Ron. The collars and cuffs are superstiff, but I now see that there are advantages to stiff collars (I normally get them supersoft.). The buttons are cheap transparent plastic, and I will try to replace them with MOP. This is obviously a tailor with potential.

I like this shirt. My Ron shirt shows the contours of my body quite clearly, while my ALT and MBT2 shirts camouflage it. I think my ideal cut is somewhere in the middle: roomier than Ron's but slimmer than ALT and MBT2.

I wonder if I should go to MBT2 tomorrow for more shirts. I have so many things to do.


Added on March 26, 2010, 7:00 pmThe shoulders are cut exactly like ALT's, which is to say not as good as Ron's. Ron's shirt shoulders fit my shoulders perfectly, it's sublime.

I just took a good look at myself in the window reflection and I really look good in this MBT2 shirt. This tailor has potential.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Mar 26 2010, 07:00 PM
malutapimau
post Mar 27 2010, 01:52 AM

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have you check each shirts and study how much rooms each tailor gives compared to your body? it will tell you alot,,,,

http://www.jantzentailor.com/measureshirt.htm

This post has been edited by malutapimau: Mar 27 2010, 01:55 AM
bloke1
post Mar 27 2010, 09:30 AM

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Damn. It's been almost a week of silence since I submitted my form to jantzen.
malutapimau
post Mar 27 2010, 02:48 PM

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i noticed jantzen / most online tailors dont ask customer measurement for amrholes,,,,how do they make up for that?
bloke1
post Mar 27 2010, 04:55 PM

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I'm guessing they adjust the armholes based on your preferred shirt fit-loose, tight, form, etc
kotmj
post Mar 28 2010, 07:01 PM

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After one wash, the collars and cuffs softened up considerably. Now they are perfect. I have since taken a closer look at the shirt. Here are comparison pics with ALT's shirt for me (he might make you a different shirt though, I dunno).

Here you see the inside seam at the yoke-armhole
user posted image

Here's the same place on ALT's shirt.
user posted image

Here's the underside of the sleeve placket.
user posted image

ALT's placket.
user posted image

None of MBT2's seams are "sealed". All of ALT's are. I paid RM150 for the ALT, which has better cutting and workmanship and cloth. I paid RM110 for the MBT2.

My Ron shirt will out of commission for 2 weeks. I have given it to a small town tailor where Grandma tailor is located to be copied in the form of a white linen shirt. I paid him RM10 more for sealed seams, nice placket undersides and small stitches (RM50).

This post has been edited by kotmj: Mar 28 2010, 07:05 PM
bloke1
post Mar 28 2010, 07:15 PM

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Raw edges should at least be finished with a serger. First time I saw a shirt with unfinished raw edges like that. I would go with ALT.
malutapimau
post Mar 28 2010, 09:10 PM

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the seam that ALT done is whats been called 'french seam', locals called it 'kelim betawi'----its one of the lessons being teach in sewing class 101,,,,,,ive an old baju melayu that has hand-sewn french seam,,,no ones willing do it anymore---

kotmj, show us the wavy collar / cuffs of your MBT2 shirt
kotmj
post Mar 29 2010, 09:09 AM

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no wavy anything. everything looks liked a fused shirt, except that they aren't.
malutapimau
post Mar 29 2010, 02:40 PM

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ive been told nonfused lining sew technique is also one the thing they teach in sewing class 101,,,
raul88
post Apr 3 2010, 02:40 AM

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jind86
i think I had been conned by your recommended= Ruth's Alteration at klcc
the thing is this is my first time buying a jacket/blazer and when i came there for alteration, i was met by this kid who work there..around same age like me
he doesnt seems like a tailor though
then i said to him i want to cut/alter the sleeves length
then he ask me how long to cut
i said "well, you more expert than me(thinking he was a tailor), so you tell me lah..but the sleeves should show the shirt cuff right"
he nod then start taking the measuring tape and measure it
then i got back the jacket a week later
now i just realize that the jacket sleeves is still longer than shirt sleeves
so dissapointed, even though i know its abit pricy i still go for this tailor cause of the recommendation by some forumer
come to think of it, i think the boy that take my measurement is the "cashier boy"!
tell la you not a tailor or he's out somewhre or not available at that time
dont simply take ppl measurement even though you dont know how to do it just because you dont want customer to leave because they cant wait
i've been conned by this Ruth's alteration at KLCC
all forumer please beware of this shop


hedonkop
post Apr 3 2010, 02:49 AM

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QUOTE(raul88 @ Apr 3 2010, 02:40 AM)
jind86
i think I had been conned by your recommended= Ruth's Alteration at klcc
the thing is this is my first time buying a jacket/blazer and when i came there for alteration, i was met by this kid who work there..around same age like me
he doesnt seems like a tailor though
then i said to him i want to cut/alter the sleeves length
then he ask me how long to cut
i said "well, you more expert than me(thinking he was a tailor), so you tell me lah..but the sleeves should show the shirt cuff right"
he nod then start taking the measuring tape and measure it
then i got back the jacket a week later
now i just realize that the jacket sleeves is still longer than shirt sleeves
so dissapointed, even though i know its abit pricy i still go for this tailor cause of the recommendation by some forumer
come to think of it, i think the boy that take my measurement is the "cashier boy"!
tell la you not a tailor or he's out somewhre or not available at that time
dont simply take ppl measurement even though you dont know how to do it just because you dont want customer to leave because they cant wait
i've been conned by this Ruth's alteration at KLCC
all forumer please beware of this shop
*
wah...pity for you..

hope you can find another good alteration service
bloke1
post Apr 3 2010, 10:22 AM

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QUOTE(raul88 @ Apr 3 2010, 02:40 AM)
jind86
i think I had been conned by your recommended= Ruth's Alteration at klcc
the thing is this is my first time buying a jacket/blazer and when i came there for alteration, i was met by this kid who work there..around same age like me
he doesnt seems like a tailor though
then i said to him i want to cut/alter the sleeves length
then he ask me how long to cut
i said "well, you more expert than me(thinking he was a tailor), so you tell me lah..but the sleeves should show the shirt cuff right"
he nod then start taking the measuring tape and measure it
then i got back the jacket a week later
now i just realize that the jacket sleeves is still longer than shirt sleeves
so dissapointed, even though i know its abit pricy i still go for this tailor cause of the recommendation by some forumer
come to think of it, i think the boy that take my measurement is the "cashier boy"!
tell la you not a tailor or he's out somewhre or not available at that time
dont simply take ppl measurement even though you dont know how to do it just because you dont want customer to leave because they cant wait
i've been conned by this Ruth's alteration at KLCC
all forumer please beware of this shop
*
Go back and make them do it again. Usually alterations tailor will redo alterations till you're satisfied after you've paid.
lanatir
post Apr 3 2010, 06:57 PM

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hmm something i saw on kinslager's facebook page

" It's BACK! Special Offer for Young Professionals :
Tailor-made 2 piece Suit (Mixed Wool) + Shirt / Blouse (2-ply Cotton) +
Tie / Scarf (Silk) = RM 780 nett. Offer ends 15th May 2010."

i guess worth trying if u're just looking for something other than your typical G2000 with a lower budget.

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