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 The Tailoring Thread, Bespoke. Nothing beats a perfect fit

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marquis
post Apr 21 2015, 05:56 PM

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Guys, need advice on getting a DB. I have OTR two and three buttons, but would like a bespoke DB for my wedding which is happening in Sept. I assume there's enough time to commission one...right?

Here's what I do know:

1) Tailor: Read good (and bad) stuff regarding Ah Loke and Jeremy Tok.

Those that have gone to both, which is recommended?

2) Cloth: Mohair Wool blend. I've read that this is the material to use for our humid weather. Where do I source for this locally? Is it even possible? I've also read that Harrisons offer a good bang for your buck. Frontier or Lesser. I'm still quite clueless regarding this.

On a side note, should I just go with what the tailors have instead of bringing my own cloth?

3) Half-canvassed (I know people at Kerbau says there isn't such a thing). I'm afraid of posting there tbh. Information overload. I need to work on my basics first before I dare (sic) thread there laugh.gif

Some questions:
1) Does anyone know how much ALT charges for a Half-canvassed, DB nowadays?
2) Should I bring my own cloth?
3) If yes to above, where can I source for them locally? I tried this local fashion blogger, but email got bounced. Am I stuck with sourcing from ebay?
4) If I do a whole lock, stock from the tailor, how much would I expect to spend for the tailoring and cloth?
5) I've read a bit about lining and found some photos of very pretty linings. Where does one go to acquire this? Would a visit to Jackal/Kamdar/etc suffice?

My budget is circa 2k. Is that too low for what I'm expecting?

Thanks! smile.gif
SUSfuzzy
post Apr 21 2015, 08:24 PM

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No experience with ALT, but mine was done with Jeremy. I had a couple of other experiences with smaller so called "old school" houses which I can only extrapolate to ALT's style.

Jeremy was very knowledgeable, patient and most importantly to me, was willing to share on what might or might not work on my piece. This is because I was pretty apathetic to this all and would have just followed whatever a tailor will say.

This was exactly what happened with a friend's suit which was done in a tailor at 1U and the result was this:

user posted image

A fused piece with that being told is the appropriate length, refusal to do working buttons and the advise that one should button all the buttons when your photo is being taken. It cost him more than 2k.

Looking back I'm pretty grateful for JT's guidance and his perfectionist view on his pieces because the flexibility and knowledge meant I was able to consider the pro and cons of a certain cut (i.e. advantages and cons of having pleats) then decide which to go for. He was also quite willing, if not extremely interested to try on the more unusual or interesting style that I'm not sure if ALT would offer / agree from the past stories I've heard.

If you're a deadbrain at this like me, would recommend Jeremy's.
deriku
post Apr 21 2015, 09:47 PM

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Go for JT. Better if you can touch and feel the cloth since this will be a special suit. Good luck.
jutamind
post Apr 21 2015, 10:00 PM

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Is it recommended to go for Jeremy for first suit where I know nuts about suiting? How much is the average cost for JT suit?
SUSfuzzy
post Apr 22 2015, 10:16 AM

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QUOTE(jutamind @ Apr 21 2015, 10:00 PM)
Is it recommended to go for Jeremy for first suit where I know nuts about suiting? How much is the average cost for JT suit?
*
Yes. I think it's largely depends on what you want to do. Half or full canvassed? Material?
marquis
post Apr 22 2015, 10:43 AM

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QUOTE(fuzzy @ Apr 21 2015, 08:24 PM)
No experience with ALT, but mine was done with Jeremy. I had a couple of other experiences with smaller so called "old school" houses which I can only extrapolate to ALT's style.

Jeremy was very knowledgeable, patient and most importantly to me, was willing to share on what might or might not work on my piece. This is because I was pretty apathetic to this all and would have just followed whatever a tailor will say.

This was exactly what happened with a friend's suit which was done in a tailor at 1U and the result was this:

user posted image

A fused piece with that being told is the appropriate length, refusal to do working buttons and the advise that one should button all the buttons when your photo is being taken. It cost him more than 2k. 

Looking back I'm pretty grateful for JT's guidance and his perfectionist view on his pieces because the flexibility and knowledge meant I was able to consider the pro and cons of a certain cut (i.e. advantages and cons of having pleats) then decide which to go for. He was also quite willing, if not extremely interested to try on the more unusual or interesting style that I'm not sure if ALT would offer / agree from the past stories I've heard.

If you're a deadbrain at this like me, would recommend Jeremy's.
*
Oh dear. That's quite a horror story you have there. Does the store name perhaps rhyme with Ford?

Re-read his website (JT I mean) and found that he does a whole one-stop.

I'm guessing at this point, it's better for him to guide me with the cloth and what not, rather than to bring my own.

Questions:

1) Does his price listed on his site include the cloth, or is that for workmanship alone? If the latter, how much am I looking at to make a full suit?
2) His Fused is actually a half-canvassed...right? Since he mentions using a horse hair chest piece. Or should I specify this to him?

QUOTE(deriku @ Apr 21 2015, 09:47 PM)
Go for JT. Better if you can touch and feel the cloth since this will be a special suit. Good luck.
*
Thanks. You're the third person to say this now. Guess I should drop him a line.
SUSfuzzy
post Apr 22 2015, 10:49 AM

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QUOTE(marquis @ Apr 22 2015, 10:43 AM)
Oh dear. That's quite a horror story you have there. Does the store name perhaps rhyme with Ford?

Re-read his website (JT I mean) and found that he does a whole one-stop.

I'm guessing at this point, it's better for him to guide me with the cloth and what not, rather than to bring my own.

Questions:

1) Does his price listed on his site include the cloth, or is that for workmanship alone? If the latter, how much am I looking at to make a full suit?
2) His Fused is actually a half-canvassed...right? Since he mentions using a horse hair chest piece. Or should I specify this to him?
Thanks. You're the third person to say this now. Guess I should drop him a line.
*
I can't remember the name, but I'd say it is near 1U JJ area whistling.gif

1) I'm not sure if his brochure have changed, but with me, it was inclusive of material though you can opt to choose better one at a different price or get your own cloth.

2) Yes, you choose either half or full canvassed.
jutamind
post Apr 22 2015, 11:56 AM

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will probably go with half canvassed and maybe super 100 wool? what's the estimated price range?

dont wanna walk into the shop and got shock of the price smile.gif

QUOTE(fuzzy @ Apr 22 2015, 10:16 AM)
Yes. I think it's largely depends on what you want to do. Half or full canvassed? Material?
*
SUSfuzzy
post Apr 22 2015, 11:59 AM

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QUOTE(jutamind @ Apr 22 2015, 11:56 AM)
will probably go with half canvassed and maybe super 100 wool? what's the estimated price range?

dont wanna walk into the shop and got shock of the price smile.gif
*
Should be around the price of his brochure. Just give him a call, he won't bite.. much tongue.gif

He also posts here so maybe he'll see this and pick up on it.
shauno
post Apr 22 2015, 12:05 PM

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QUOTE(jutamind @ Apr 22 2015, 11:56 AM)
will probably go with half canvassed and maybe super 100 wool? what's the estimated price range?

dont wanna walk into the shop and got shock of the price smile.gif
*
QUOTE(fuzzy @ Apr 22 2015, 11:59 AM)
Should be around the price of his brochure. Just give him a call, he won't bite.. much  tongue.gif

He also posts here so maybe he'll see this and pick up on it.
*
he'll bite when you ask him for a "half canvassed" =p

i've gone to both ALT and JT before. The main difference is that you need to give ALT some direction. he's been in the business for a long time, and sometimes what was good 15-20 years ago might not necessarily translate to what's good today.

That being said, i believe ALT is slightly cheaper than JT, but for 2k, you should be able to get something from either of them quite comfortably. no full canvassed tho. those cost quite a bit more.

In fact, with 2k, I think you can also check out Bespoked in 1u. Heard good things about them too!
marquis
post Apr 22 2015, 01:07 PM

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QUOTE(fuzzy @ Apr 22 2015, 10:49 AM)
I can't remember the name, but I'd say it is near 1U JJ area  whistling.gif

1) I'm not sure if his brochure have changed, but with me, it was inclusive of material though you can opt to choose better one at a different price or get your own cloth.

2) Yes, you choose either half or full canvassed.
*
Much obliged, kind sir.

Will be sending him an email...I think that's more appropriate then sending him a pm here. I just connected the dots (with a help from a friend) on whom he is here laugh.gif

Should've known though

QUOTE(shauno @ Apr 22 2015, 12:05 PM)
he'll bite when you ask him for a "half canvassed" =p

i've gone to both ALT and JT before. The main difference is that you need to give ALT some direction. he's been in the business for a long time, and sometimes what was good 15-20 years ago might not necessarily translate to what's good today.

That being said, i believe ALT is slightly cheaper than JT, but for 2k, you should be able to get something from either of them quite comfortably. no full canvassed tho. those cost quite a bit more.

In fact, with 2k, I think you can also check out Bespoked in 1u. Heard good things about them too!
*
*gulp* Will be sure not to mention half canvassed to him then. His persona over at Kerbau seems very...scary sweat.gif Deep respect on his know-how though.

Many thanks for the input. I think I'm set on going with JT. Will discuss with fiancee and get in touch with JT. I'm not in the position to be giving good direction (if any) and would need a guiding hand myself. I know very little when it comes to commissioning a suit/jacket, let alone a DB.

Not too keen on Bespoked tbh - fair enough, read some good things about them - also read some pretty horrible things about them. Besides, would rather someone I know - albeit it's from a distance, electronically, without said person knowing myself laugh.gif

Thanks again. These comments (by yourself and fuzzy) was exactly what I needed in helping to decide. This way, I can stop my research on sourcing for the cloth. Yay!
scorpionballs
post Apr 22 2015, 10:55 PM

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I've been trying to get some of my ties slimmed from around 3.5" to around 2.5" - brought them to a couple of places in Bangsar, and they pretty much unanimously said they couldn't/wouldn't do it. Any ideas where I can get it done?

Also, suggestions for M2M shirts would be great. Shirts from Muji fit surprisingly well but the collar's too small for my fat neck. Wouldn't mind going back to ALT for the shirts, if not for the recent news of his long waiting times...
kotmj
post Apr 26 2015, 10:50 PM

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kotmj
post Apr 26 2015, 10:52 PM

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QUOTE(scorpionballs @ Apr 22 2015, 10:55 PM)
I've been trying to get some of my ties slimmed from around 3.5" to around 2.5" - brought them to a couple of places in Bangsar, and they pretty much unanimously said they couldn't/wouldn't do it. Any ideas where I can get it done?

Also, suggestions for M2M shirts would be great. Shirts from Muji fit surprisingly well but the collar's too small for my fat neck. Wouldn't mind going back to ALT for the shirts, if not for the recent news of his long waiting times...
*
Try tiecrafters in New York. Very reasonable prices.
leejy
post May 6 2015, 08:27 PM

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anyone know tailor with good quality material?i would like to do some shirt..thx
SUSfuzzy
post May 7 2015, 07:11 PM

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QUOTE(leejy @ May 6 2015, 08:27 PM)
anyone know tailor with good quality material?i would like to do some shirt..thx
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You are better off mentioning the budget you have in mind. Good quality material is a pretty vague statement as the benchmark for good differs vastly from one to another. nod.gif
kukukakikukaku
post May 14 2015, 05:21 PM

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Hello guys, I'm looking for a suit for my wedding. My budget is around 1-1.5k. As I've never had a suit in my wardrobe (I work mostly outside of the office), can you guys please recommend me some shops and some basic rules in having my first suit?

Thank you in advance. smile.gif
GuyM
post May 20 2015, 09:26 PM

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Some normal tailored shirts recently from bkk....
user posted image
user posted image

user posted image

user posted image
Back of the shirt

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zeroonetwo
post May 26 2015, 11:39 AM

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Looking to alter a slightly oversized beige jacket . anyone tried using za altera before? otherwise any recommendation?
tlcn
post May 27 2015, 11:37 AM

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Hi Guys,
Looking for a two button black formal coat for man, just as in this photo below
user posted image

i'm in Klang Valley
Budget around RM200
need it before this Saturday.

Can recommend please?
thanks.

 

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