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> The Tailoring Thread, Bespoke. Nothing beats a perfect fit

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Old Red Eyes
post Jan 27 2019, 10:24 PM

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QUOTE(niakulah @ Jan 27 2019, 10:22 PM)
I sure do.
[attachmentid=10173594]
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Got it buttoned up, with a tie?

Old Red Eyes
post Jan 27 2019, 10:29 PM

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QUOTE(niakulah @ Jan 27 2019, 10:22 PM)
I sure do.
[attachmentid=10173594]
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No offense, but from the looks of this pic, I guess my idea of clown might be the going rate in Malaysia.
Old Red Eyes
post Jan 27 2019, 10:37 PM

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QUOTE(niakulah @ Jan 27 2019, 10:08 PM)
That's too bad that he got your collar mixed up. Between my 7 shirts with him, I have his point, semi-spread, and button down collars.

I particularly enjoy the collar roll of his button down (which is why I have 3), but you really have to know what you're getting into. Not everyone is familiar with the style, or know that it is never to be worn in unbuttoned.

It's a very American style, as we see on young Bruce Wayne here:
[attachmentid=10173577]

My colleagues did think I was nuts the first time I wore it to the office!
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No, that's the problem. It's not at all an American style. Not in the least. It's a very clumsy attempt to do Italian in American style. If you want American style, it's very, very simple: buy Brooks Brothers. You would never find anything close to so garish a style in a Brooks Brothers catalog. I don't think you would find it from Ralph Lauren either, despite his Italian leanings.

This attempt at style is just awful. That is fully evidenced by your thinking that it is American when it is decidedly Italian. It just doesn't know what it wants to be, and you don't either, but it reached out to you on some level and you bought it.

Old Red Eyes
post Jan 27 2019, 10:45 PM

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QUOTE(niakulah @ Jan 27 2019, 10:30 PM)
Sorry but no. My workplace doesn't require ties.
[attachmentid=10173611]

Here's a pic of it unbuttoned, next to a 'normal' button down, also unbuttoned.
It is indeed huge, but the 'normal' collar doesn't really roll that nicely.
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I guess I giggle at your excitement for the 'roll'. The collar doesn't look elegant. Particularly since you can't wear it with a tie. You'd be far, far better off investing in something more serious.


Old Red Eyes
post Jan 27 2019, 10:53 PM

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The Japanese one is a traditional American style. The 100 Hands is aggressive, but at least it's out there in front, no questions asked (and I'd also note that it doesn't have fabric to spare for when it buttons). The Dylan and Sons is passable, but only as a casual shirt. There is no business shirt that buttons like that.
Old Red Eyes
post Jan 27 2019, 10:55 PM

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QUOTE(niakulah @ Jan 27 2019, 10:49 PM)
I have spread collars for when the occasion calls for it. Variety is the spice of life.
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Of course. We all do. We're talking about tailoring here.
Old Red Eyes
post Feb 3 2019, 11:05 PM

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QUOTE(tdw @ Feb 1 2019, 08:58 AM)
Hi guys.
I’m actually looking for a tuxedo to be stitched 
The thing is my wedding is on 2nd March 2019.
I’m also based at outstation so will be returning to KL only on 9th February.

I have called few places and only Kinslager told me the might able to make it. They quote me full set with shirt and bow tie will come up to RM1999.

My question here:
1. Is the Kinslager good for tuxedo
2. Is the price reasonable

If anyone done their suit or tux from Kinslager , would love your comments.
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I don't have any experience with Kinslager. But I might suggest you give a call to Daniel at Prestige Tailors in Seremban 2. I am very impressed by his work, and I feel certain he could meet your timeframe.

Old Red Eyes
post Feb 27 2019, 12:00 AM

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QUOTE(CallMeGucci @ Feb 22 2019, 06:57 PM)
Hey, could you shed some light on how much Daniel charges for a dress shirt? Cheers.
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I don't remember it exactly, but I know it was Bangkok prices for much, much better quality and service. I think it was 200 ringgit with a decent fabric, and maybe 350 or so for Soktas and the like. I'll also give the guy much credit for one thing. The sleeve was a bit off on the finished product, and he insisted on remaking the shirt at his expense.

For what it's worth (given a couple other recent posts in this thread), he was willing to entertain any and all my requests -- and I had several, as I enjoyed working with him -- and also to offer mother of pearl for something really reasonable that I can't remember what it was but it was far, far less than 200 ringgit.

He also made me a very carefully customized trouser for something like 350 in really nice fabric. I don't think the guy makes much margin on his labor.
Old Red Eyes
post Feb 27 2019, 12:15 AM

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QUOTE(Meaples @ Feb 16 2019, 05:05 PM)
Hi guys, long time reader here.

Just wanted to ask:
Old Red Eyes, niakulah, judging by your previous posts, tailored shirts around KL would be Rm150 - RM350+ depending on fabric/tailor.

1. How much would the price change if you bring your own shirting fabric or heavily customise your shirt (collars/buttons/fit/etc)?

2. Are there any local/foreign sites you usually purchase your favorite shirting fabric from (or suit/pants) and are there any specific shirting fabrics you would recommend for daily use? I like thicker weaves that crease less over plain poplin types but linen is always welcome in our weather.

For reference, I tend to wear Hawes&Curtis shirts on a daily basis and getting them for about RM165 (sale/etc) is very competitive as I my fit is quite close to their dummy model size smile.gif.

On an unrelated note, I've had alot of luck finding respectable suits in Genting Premier Oulet from Sacoor. Arguably, their house fabric/fused suits are quite run-off-the-mill but sometimes they have collaborations with other fabric houses. I've got 2 suits with them, half canvassed with 150s Loro Piana and Zegna traveller for about 1k each (with pants).

If you are in the EU, Foxtown and the Armani outlet near the border of Italy/Switzerland are my best shops, where I managed to get some really nice armani suits that were not at wallet smashing prices. Unfortunately as above, I kinda fit the dummy profile so I don't require too much altering tongue.gif
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Honestly, I'm coming around to not ever doing custom shirts again, or at least not expecting much from it. Unless maybe I could do them on Saville Row. I got started with them in the first place for a handful of reasons. One, the sleeves are often too long for me when I buy off the rack. Two, I bought into the idea that 'custom' absolutely meant higher quality. Three, I liked the idea of having the control of picking and choosing all the options. Four, once I moved to Asia from the States I was intoxicated by how affordable they were.

I now would reverse course on much of that. I've found a good alterations shop that can shorten the sleeves on shirts I buy off the rack. I know that the quality from any and every shop I've dealt with thus far in Asia is far, far below the quality from one off-the-rack shirt from a solid Italian or Japanese maker. I now regret the 'custom' choices I made on some of my shirts, such as contrasting fabric inside the collar and placket. And I have thrown away more 40-dollar shirts than I want to admit, while I keep and enjoy wearing my 100-200 dollar ones I have purchased carefully.

Put simply, the Bangkok guys can make a very nice department-store-quality shirt, if that is what you are after. You will pay around 30-40 dollars for it, typically, which is also what you would pay at a department store. You can choose your options. The fabric may not hold up as long, though, and you may not get the same level of workmanship.

What I'm coming around to is this. If you really want quality workmanship and a shirt you will be proud of wearing, buy something nice and have it altered if need be. In KL your best option, as far as I know, is the P Johnson line from Australia at WJ&Co. Super solid shirts at a price that won't break the bank. Or go on Ebay for Italian makes that you can nab all day long for about a hundred bucks. Put either of those shirts on your back, and you won't be terribly excited about going 'custom' in KL again.



Old Red Eyes
post Feb 27 2019, 12:20 AM

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QUOTE(Meaples @ Feb 16 2019, 05:05 PM)
Hi guys, long time reader here.

Just wanted to ask:
Old Red Eyes, niakulah, judging by your previous posts, tailored shirts around KL would be Rm150 - RM350+ depending on fabric/tailor.

1. How much would the price change if you bring your own shirting fabric or heavily customise your shirt (collars/buttons/fit/etc)?

2. Are there any local/foreign sites you usually purchase your favorite shirting fabric from (or suit/pants) and are there any specific shirting fabrics you would recommend for daily use? I like thicker weaves that crease less over plain poplin types but linen is always welcome in our weather.

For reference, I tend to wear Hawes&Curtis shirts on a daily basis and getting them for about RM165 (sale/etc) is very competitive as I my fit is quite close to their dummy model size smile.gif.

On an unrelated note, I've had alot of luck finding respectable suits in Genting Premier Oulet from Sacoor. Arguably, their house fabric/fused suits are quite run-off-the-mill but sometimes they have collaborations with other fabric houses. I've got 2 suits with them, half canvassed with 150s Loro Piana and Zegna traveller for about 1k each (with pants).

If you are in the EU, Foxtown and the Armani outlet near the border of Italy/Switzerland are my best shops, where I managed to get some really nice armani suits that were not at wallet smashing prices. Unfortunately as above, I kinda fit the dummy profile so I don't require too much altering tongue.gif
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But to answer your questions more specifically, I don't purchase fabric. I'd probably enjoy that if I had the time, but I don't. Myself, I like thinner fabrics that feel like silk, but to each his own and his own needs. I might recommend you try some, though, and see what you think.

As for your question number one, I'll echo the remark another person made, that your customization should not affect the price. After all, it's what you are paying for. (At least ostensibly.)

I'm quite intrigued to hear more about these suits you found. I'd have never expected that at Genting Highlands!
Old Red Eyes
post Mar 6 2019, 04:44 AM

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It's tempting to say that a bespoke culture just doesn't exist in KL, but it does. I can think of a dozen or more shops that I have seen while shopping for other things, on top of the ones I know.
Old Red Eyes
post Jul 3 2019, 11:41 PM

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QUOTE(EpsilonStar @ Jun 11 2019, 08:35 AM)
Hey guys wonder there are any express suit tailoring in kl area? Relative thinking to pick up one within 3days....
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What did they end up going with?

Old Red Eyes
post Sep 21 2019, 08:20 PM

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QUOTE(yehlai @ Sep 16 2019, 09:22 PM)
How about get from suitsupply (try the fit in their shop)
as they using good fabric for their suits
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The problem with Suit Supply, for me at least, is their surgeon cuffs (meaning, the sleeve buttons are actually functional). Well, it's their surgeon cuffs combined with their odd models. I'm a 33" or 34" sleeve length, so of course I have to shorten the sleeves on any jacket I buy off the rack in a 'regular' size. On occasion I will try a 'short', though, and the sleeves are usually spot-on. I went ahead and bought a sportcoat in the Suit Supply shop in The Hague this summer, in a 'short' size so as to have some chance at all of the sleeves working, despite the body being pretty noticeably too short for me. And what happened? They shortened the sleeves as much as they could (an inch or so), and they are still too long. They are still long and the (working, whoop-de-do) buttons are that much closer to the hem.

To me, if you are going to significantly limit your customer base by requiring their arms to go a minimum length past the working buttonholes, then you ought not to have sizing models that run so long in the arm (especially if they run so not-long in the body). But much more to the point: If you are going to be a fairly mass-market retailer, why put a 'bespoke' feature on an off-the-rack garment, especially one that doesn't cost that much? So that the guys who can wear it with no alterations feel that much happier about their little 200-dollar jacket because they can undo a couple of the buttons and pass it off as custom?

Old Red Eyes
post Dec 21 2019, 12:34 AM

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QUOTE(xiulaba @ Nov 21 2019, 11:25 AM)
Hi all, would anyone have experience with WJ&Co? I'm looking for office day  wear and also a couple pair of decent shoes and it seems like they can do both. My body shape quite stocky, with a short torso and relatively wide shoulders which a lot of off the shelf shirts doesn't fit, and I'm of medium height, maybe even a tad short, which led me to want to try the tailor route. Thanks in advance!
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I've got experience with their Made-To-Measure stuff, by the Australian brand, which I can't say turned out great (for my non-Asian frame). I have lots of experience with the shoe makers they sell, though not with any pair purchased directly from them. Please free to send me any questions, in case I can help. For what it's worth, I also have a sleeve length that tends not to work off the rack.
Old Red Eyes
post Jan 2 2020, 02:40 AM

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QUOTE(Gentleman_League @ Dec 30 2019, 03:20 PM)
Hey guys, is that possible to tailor something similar like chino's trousers for casual wear, im a fairly short guy its a struggle to find a chino pants that really fits me or need an alteration, might as well possible to tailor it?
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I tried chinos once and it was kind of a disaster. For a fairly casual item like that, I think you'd have to have a rare need in order for a custom pair to make much sense. (Or just want something super high end.) Anything below the thigh should be very easy for an alterations shop to handle. The length is easy, of course, but so is the width (of the knee/calf and leg opening). I'm guessing that a hem and taper could fix you up just fine, and it wouldn't cost very much at all.

If you have some other problem you are trying to get around, maybe post some pics so we can give advice?

Old Red Eyes
post Jul 8 2020, 12:11 AM

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QUOTE(yehlai @ Mar 7 2020, 03:48 PM)
Hi guys where to order VBC or Holland Sherry fabric?
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Do you mean just the fabric itself, by the yard? Or tailors in KL that are working with it.

 

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