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 The Tailoring Thread, Bespoke. Nothing beats a perfect fit

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Zelz92
post Nov 7 2012, 09:07 AM

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QUOTE(papayaman @ Nov 7 2012, 07:53 AM)
Hello, just wondering if its possible to alter a suit i made couple of years back.

It does not seem to fit my shoulders as nicely as it used to (I started body building)..so is it possible to alter just the shoulder area + the shoulder pads to make it slightly wider?
*
The work demand a high skilled tailor. Shoulder is the hardest part to be alter, it's almost an impossible job. Chances are you won't find tailor who can alter it.
uturn
post Nov 8 2012, 11:43 AM

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QUOTE(Terrorsquad @ Nov 6 2012, 11:46 PM)
I am guessing that this could possibly be a J.J Minnis/John G Hardy, Holland & Sherry or some made in China cloth. Which shop is this by the way?


Added on November 6, 2012, 11:48 pm

This could almost get you a fully canvassed suit in Lumbs Golden Bale by H.Lesser. But I agree, the service is great though 2.6K for a wool/polyester mix is daylight robbery.
*
Yup..might as well just save your money and go to a budget tailor in Campbell. biggrin.gif
clearoldstock
post Nov 8 2012, 09:01 PM

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QUOTE(Terrorsquad @ Oct 30 2012, 11:57 PM)
When you say formal wear, do you mean a black tie event or just a plain suit that can also be used for work?Asking because I note the fact you stated that you want the guy to 'dress to kill and make an impression for employers and peers'.

If you could clarify this point would be great.
*
Hmm. The point is, he needs to be presentable and good looking la. Looks smart smile.gif


Added on November 8, 2012, 9:48 pm
QUOTE(Zelz92 @ Nov 5 2012, 07:06 PM)
For black-tie (men in black) (Solid color)

1. He'll need: A good crisp dress shirt (white), one with classic narrow hard collar (not button down) or with double cuff. A Solid dark suit or tux. A dark dress leather shoes (Oxford, Brogue) with dark dress socks. Belt (same color as shoes)/Suspenders (depend on body built). Dark conservative tie.

2. Depend on type of fabric. Ranging from 900 and up. Metarial: Wool, Silk, Linen, Cotton, Synthetic etc. I would suggest a wool for the first suit (less wrinkle, last longer than linen) If you live in hot climate choose a lighter fabric. Use summer weight fabric that has looser woven yarn.

3. 8-10 weeks, and 80 hours of tailoring.

4. Tailor, ask local. Expect 4 appointments. Expect 15-40 measurements & photograph

Semi-Formal (Pattern, color)

1. He'll need: A good dress shirt, (not button down) or with double cuff. Suit jacket (match trouser, same fabric). A Trouser (match jacket, same fabric). A dark dress leather shoes (Oxford, Brogue). Belt (same color as shoes)/Suspenders (depend on body built). Conservative tie.

*
There are a lot of foreign words up there but thanks alot smile.gif

I guess there isn't much I can do and just hope for the best for the first suit?

Oh yea. Honestly, giving me so much choices for the materials is quite a headache rclxub.gif really no idea of what are the pros and cons. Do enlighten me. Thanks!

In short, I just ask the tailor for pure wool as material? and slim cutting?

This post has been edited by clearoldstock: Nov 8 2012, 09:48 PM
SyathibiyMegat
post Nov 8 2012, 11:21 PM

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Where to alter blazer? Price below than rm50
Zelz92
post Nov 9 2012, 01:07 AM

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QUOTE(clearoldstock @ Nov 8 2012, 09:01 PM)
Hmm. The point is, he needs to be presentable and good looking la. Looks smart smile.gif


Added on November 8, 2012, 9:48 pm
There are a lot of foreign words up there but thanks alot smile.gif

I guess there isn't much I can do and just hope for the best for the first suit?

Oh yea. Honestly, giving me so much choices for the materials is quite a headache rclxub.gif really no idea of what are the pros and cons. Do enlighten me. Thanks!

In short, I just ask the tailor for pure wool as material? and slim cutting?
*
There's a lot you can do.

This might help.

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


For first suit, pick Wool. There are many kind of wool. If you're looking for lightweight, breathable and cool under the sun, pick "summer weight wool (7-9oz)". If you looking for something that keep you warm, pick more delicate wool. There are also blend wool eg: 75%polyster 15%wool and etc. Depend on your budget really.

Oh yeah, the cut ask the tailor to make a suit look like James Bond.
Don't worry, on fitting stage you'll have a batter idea of how that suit gonna fit you.

For "fit" Read:
Shirt fit
Jacket


This post has been edited by Zelz92: Nov 9 2012, 01:44 AM
clearoldstock
post Nov 9 2012, 01:39 PM

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QUOTE(Zelz92 @ Nov 9 2012, 01:07 AM)
There's a lot you can do.

This might help.

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


For first suit, pick Wool. There are many kind of wool. If you're looking for lightweight, breathable and cool under the sun, pick "summer weight wool (7-9oz)". If you looking for something that keep you warm, pick more delicate wool. There are also blend wool eg: 75%polyster 15%wool and etc. Depend on your budget really.

Oh yeah, the cut ask the tailor to make a suit look like James Bond.
Don't worry, on fitting stage you'll have a batter idea of how that suit gonna fit you.

For "fit" Read:
Shirt fit
Jacket

*
Now this is an enlightening and edifying post that should be credited. Thanks Zelz92.

Let's discuss on material first.

After some reading myself, wool seems to be the choice as it can be worn all year long and wrinkle-free which are the two main points that caught my attention.

http://www.askmen.com/fashion/fashiontip_6...ion_advice.html
http://www.askmen.com/fashion/fashiontip_3...ion_advice.html

But, there isn't any website which describe the different kind of wools. I tried wiki and google, at least, there is no hits for me. Anyone can help me on this?

I wanna know their pros n cons.

What do you mean by delicate wool? I am definitely looking at a suit that will keep the wearer warm smile.gif Is blend wool good?

Budget: around MYR 1000. But its subjective. Dont mind paying more if there is something worth the money for a first timer.

Zelz92
post Nov 9 2012, 03:31 PM

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QUOTE(clearoldstock @ Nov 9 2012, 01:39 PM)
Now this is an enlightening and edifying post that should be credited. Thanks Zelz92.

Let's discuss on material first.

After some reading myself, wool seems to be the choice as it can be worn all year long and wrinkle-free which are the two main points that caught my attention.

http://www.askmen.com/fashion/fashiontip_6...ion_advice.html
http://www.askmen.com/fashion/fashiontip_3...ion_advice.html

But, there isn't any website which describe the different kind of wools. I tried wiki and google, at least, there is no hits for me. Anyone can help me on this?

I wanna know their pros n cons.

What do you mean by delicate wool? I am definitely looking at a suit that will keep the wearer warm smile.gif Is blend wool good?

Budget: around MYR 1000. But its subjective. Dont mind paying more if there is something worth the money for a first timer.
*
Fabrics
Something

The best way is to feel it yourself. Ask the tailor for help.
Oh yeah, try wool + Cashmere blend

This post has been edited by Zelz92: Nov 9 2012, 03:35 PM
clearoldstock
post Nov 9 2012, 04:13 PM

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QUOTE(Zelz92 @ Nov 9 2012, 03:31 PM)
Fabrics
Something

The best way is to feel it yourself. Ask the tailor for help.
Oh yeah, try wool + Cashmere blend
*
I can barely feel the difference between different type of fabrics (the catalog provided by the tailor). Just like I hear no difference from a rm500 headphone and a rm30 headphone.


Added on November 9, 2012, 4:14 pmNonetheless, thanks alot. Will read up the links.

Wool + Cashmere and Cashmere wool is different thing?

This post has been edited by clearoldstock: Nov 9 2012, 04:14 PM
deriku
post Nov 9 2012, 05:57 PM

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To me, there's no significant difference between pure wool and wool/cashmere blend. At most you get 5 - 10% cashmere which really does not make a whole lot of difference, just a marketing gimmick to get people interested.
Terrorsquad
post Nov 9 2012, 10:43 PM

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QUOTE(deriku @ Nov 9 2012, 05:57 PM)
To me, there's no significant difference between pure wool and wool/cashmere blend. At most you get 5 - 10% cashmere which really does not make a whole lot of difference, just a marketing gimmick to get people interested.
*
As someone who is in the cloth business, I agree with this statement.


Added on November 9, 2012, 10:49 pm
QUOTE(Zelz92 @ Nov 9 2012, 01:07 AM)
There's a lot you can do.

If you looking for something that keep you warm, pick more delicate wool.
I fail to grasp this concept. Do please explain. Unless you are referring to pure cashmere or vicuna.

This post has been edited by Terrorsquad: Nov 9 2012, 10:51 PM
!gent's
post Nov 10 2012, 10:08 PM

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just collected my 5 trousers from ah loke....

this is "before" the tailoring...


Attached Image

This post has been edited by !gent's: Nov 10 2012, 10:09 PM
Mr.PostMan
post Nov 10 2012, 11:36 PM

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hi all i'm planning to make a suit, shirts and trouser, i'm 181cm tall how many meters of fabric i should buy and where i can buy in kelana jaya area?

This post has been edited by Mr.PostMan: Nov 10 2012, 11:36 PM
kmoh4346
post Nov 11 2012, 04:20 PM

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Hi, for those in Kuching. Would recommend British Tailor at Tun Jugah Mall. I tried out with a bow tie just for fun. Its a special wool, very light & comfortable, very detail, even the inner lining looks gorgeous.


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Terrorsquad
post Nov 12 2012, 12:07 PM

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Is that a one button suit?If yes, I see some issue with it.a full body shot would be great
kmoh4346
post Nov 12 2012, 12:23 PM

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QUOTE(Terrorsquad @ Nov 12 2012, 12:07 PM)
Is that a one button suit?If yes, I see some issue with it.a full body shot would be great
*
yes its one button suit. What seems to be the issue, care to share? Sure, I will upload the suit picture in the evening.
littlebeettle
post Nov 12 2012, 04:55 PM

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hey all,

any idea where about I still can buy this locally?

user posted image
kmoh4346
post Nov 12 2012, 07:22 PM

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QUOTE(Terrorsquad @ Nov 12 2012, 12:07 PM)
Is that a one button suit?If yes, I see some issue with it.a full body shot would be great
*
Pardon the iphone quality. Pictures taken by myself hence the outcome.

Attached Image
Attached Image
Attached Image
Terrorsquad
post Nov 12 2012, 11:00 PM

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Sorry man but the pics you took doesnt help at all. Try taking pics like this:

My Webpage

This post has been edited by Terrorsquad: Nov 12 2012, 11:01 PM
xLegato
post Nov 13 2012, 03:33 PM

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For a one button suit, those lapels have zero belly and roll. Notice how the roll ends way higher than the buttoning stance.

Shoulders look too heavily padded. Sleeves are too long. Quarters are too closed; though this is more of a stylistic preference.
yedyedyed
post Nov 18 2012, 02:01 PM

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hi i`m looking for jeans & trousers alteration shop kl area. do anyone have suggestion which shop should i go?

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