Hello drgnkid,

Don't be so upset I think ! Love Money is just confused about the whole intermittent wiper thing - its not the speed control that you push the thing up and down but its finer adjustment of the motor speed by turning the thing clockwise / counter clockwise. Even the retired Wira also has this feature

None of our Personas have this feature so don't think that you've been left alone! : ) By the way drgnkid I'm carousel in MT forum, nice to see you here.

dARKaNGEl,

Most of the Persona owners will say that the paint isn't so durable and easily chipped off, and in my 18 months of owning the car, I couldn't agree more. More so mine is metal grey, and it has turned yellowish on the bonnet section due to the prolonged exposure to the sun. I think iridescent would be even worse By the way, if your car is less than 3 month old, they SC might consider spraying scratched/imperfect paint on your car, but you must be able to cook up stories and the procedure can be quite long, because they need to take photographs, type a report and send to HQ. Hope this helps, just try your luck with it.

dbtel74,
From my experience with the fuel gauge, the first quarter and the last quarter will go down much faster than the middle two, so it is highly advisable to refuel after the second last quarter finishes so you wont get stuck with an empty fuel tank in the middle of the traffic jam. For those who are eager to test the FC of Persona by stretching the last quarter of fuel, I can tell you that its not worth it and you'll be disappointed by the FC anyway . Most of the FC data reported in forums are > 60% highway drive, thus are really rosy values, but in city drive the Campro can be VERY thirsty, maybe worse than a 2.0 car!

Hey Ghostblind, you can accurately calculate your monthly payment by using this formula:

[ (Price - Downpayment) x [ 1 + ((Loan Interest%)/100) x no. of years] ] / (no of years x 12)

Eg. Price=50,000, DP=10,000, Loan Interest=3.65%, no. of years=9

[ (50,000-10,000) x [1 + (3.65/100)x9] ] / (9 x 12)
= RM492 / month

Hope that helps!

Hey dARKaNGEl,

I presume your 2nd service is 5,000KM? If its 5000KM service, I'd recommend you to use a semi-syn first because your next appointment would be at 10,000KM and its your *last* labour free service. After 10,000KM, use a fully synthetic (because 15,000KM no free service, you'll need to pay for labour about RM60+), thus straightaway jump to 20,000KM major service which will be a pretty expensive one.

You might ask why waste so much money on fully synthetic? Because there are value for money FSes out there - Bardahl (RM78), Penzoil, BHP (RM120-130+), Tesco Shell Ultra (RM135) and Carrefour Mobil 1 (RM 140+). Make sure to get SM grade. It is so much cheaper to get a FS that is good for 10,000KM, rather than buying 2 bottles of Syntium (RM98 x 2 = RM196) that is only good for 5000KM each. Besides, if change at 5,000KM also incurs additional labour charge, which is pretty expensive at PE SC, EON and even authorized SC.

Hope the math isn't too confusing

Morning dARKaNGEl,

Mobil products have been working good for me, including their lubes and petrol (Synergy F1 works best in my Persona). As for Mobil Super S 10w40, yes I've tried it and its pretty good. If you've just switch from Syntium with viscousity of 15w50, you'll immediately notice that the engine runs noisier and revvy happy upon switching to 10w40 oil. 40 weight is noticeably lighter than 50 weight oil. FC wise, pretty subjective for me as the difference is not that dramatic.

As for Castrol, I assume you're thinking of the Magnatec. I haven't personally tried it, but some said its good (maybe because of the BP DNA in it). Castrol is BP's flagship lube so it must have some of the engineering goodies dedicated to them. However, if I'm not mistaken the Magnatec is a premium mineral oil, and not a synthetic blend/ semi-synthetic lubricant.

Price wise, I believe both are priced at around RM97. Any sifus with better lube background care to give more comments?

LOL.. me and ah long are both old timers - first batch persona owners, warranty going off soon though.

1. Never occurred
2. Never occurred
3. Caused by rubbing between metal hooks, apply some duct tapes.
4. *UNSOLVED*
5. Try twising the bee sting. If you still can unscrew the sting then its not properly locked in position. Mechanic helped me to adjust so its locked in pretty tight.
6. Really common for IAFM owners. Get it replaced fast before your warranty goes off, the module itself is RM1000+!
7. Never occurred
8. Never occurred
9. Never occurred
10. Never occurred
11. Never occurred

zarreta, you might wanna take a few days off and focus on fixing these problems at SC - that's the pain of owning a Proton. Maybe yours have more problems than the rest of us, unfortunately... Don't let these problems put your faith down on the car, because I believe Persona was not originally designed to give you those problems - all these problems happen because of lack of QC and inferior products supplied by various vendors.

daTUK_SErI, the air cond 'knock' is what we normally call the compressor click, but maybe your's abnormally louder? When it clicks you can hear from the outside a "tak" sound, followed by the fan turning faster sucking in air to be cooled.

Hypro, the symptom would be the 'klak klak klak" sound coming from your engine. If in doubt you can ask the mechanic to check it, its a *famous* problem so they can detect it right away.

Asus, what were the symptoms? Leaking engine oil?

LOL alexliew, on the bright side if your car turns out to be a lemon, you'll gain a lot of experience fixing your car if you decide to stay with it for the next 5 years

Hehe. Already heard lots of complaints on the new Vios's NVH, and a lot would agree that the older Vios rides much better than the new one. Some tried changing stock tires to comfort based but the improvement isn't that dramatic, so I'd guess there's a lot of cost cutting being done on the new Vios.

loong2020, maybe because you're using Michy PP2? Its performance tire so it might be a little noisy. My next tire change would be a pair of Michy Primacy LC! I've done 2 layers of soundproof on 4 doors (SP Mat, Sunway) and honestly there's quite some improvement here. Previously the ride was with a lot of wind noise and traffic noise but now motorcycles just whizzed by without giving you a feeling that you accidentally winded the window down. Now all I hear is the roaring of my NCT5 tires, very very annoying, even at slow speed the tire would just scream as if it has got some tarmac sensitivity problem

loong2020,
I fixed my 4 door insulation at Pitstop, Sunway for RM298. Apparently this is
the promotional price, comes with a layer of SP Mat for sound insulation/absorption and another layer of Superlon for heatproofing. The 2nd layer of Superlon heatproofing provides minimal sound absorption properties, but it helps to protect the layer of SP Mat from melting and also keeps your vehicle a little cooler (effect is negligible though.. LOL). A lot of forummers like to Insulflex and Superlon to suppress sound, but IMO these 2 materials have very little sound suppression ability, because they are meant for *heat* application (ie heatproofing for aircond pipes). Even if the pads can absorb vibration, the effect is quite minute and mostly psychological. Of course, this is open for debate as my reasoning consists of some scientific explanation, some hunting in forums and feedback from my friends.

stanley984,
If you park your car under the sun most of the time, consider to invest more in a good tint ie. VKool as it will be good for your interior in the long run. Low end (RM200+) to mid range (500-700) tints will be good enough for average joe like me, but considering that your interior will be literally baked by the hot scorching sun most of the time, your interior will deteriorate faster using these low end to mid range tints. Consider forking 1.5-2K for a good Vkool tint - make sure its genuine and passes JPJ checks!

alexliew,

By all means avoid the GoodYear NCT5/Excellence. Its a crap tire you can read all sorts of critics in AW. Currently mine is NCT5 and you can hear all the tire noise ringing in your head after 4 hours of long journey. If its possible, try not to get Good Year NCT5/Excellence.

I've tried my friend's Personas, one with Silverstone Kruizer and another is with Continental CC1 - both are better than mine but these are entry level tires as well. I don't know about Dunlop tires though. I'm already planning to get rid of my GY NCT5, even there's about 60% thread left and get them replaced with either Falken ZE-912 or Michelin Primacy LC.

Amras of Nargothrond,

Yes its a well known problem and happens to every Persona out there as far as I know. This 'klunking' noise is caused by the metal power steering hose that hits other part of the vehicle when you're going through a pothole. The solution is to fix a plastic/rubber hose that does not produce the 'klunk' noise, but this solution isn't perfect as far as I know, because a mechanic told me that some people reported that the rubber/plastic hose melted just after a few weeks. So, he did not change mine to a plastic one because problem will crop up later. I don't know if they've fixed it by using an improved rubber/plastic, if they do please let us know.

They said they only fix during weekdays is because their policy of only attending to complaints on weekdays, and reserve weekends for service only. Some bigger service centres might have different policy, so its up to you to find out. I believe to fix the hose, at least half a day will be required so its best that you leave your car at SC and collect it once its finished.

ralf, M-line got ABS meh?

dinodegil, if budget isn't an issue by all means go for M-line. Steering button is really handy and simple to operate, just press the buttons to navigate tracks, switch to aux/radio/cd and adjust volume without needing to stretch your hand and press the buttons on the audio unit. MP3 is really handy too so that you won't need to buy those cute girly hamburgers to store your CDs.. LOL.. Single driver airbag gives you protection but your front passenger might not be so lucky. Electric mirrors are cool too, but too bad they aren't retractable like Waja CPS. Aesthetics wise, with M-line you don't have the two black unpainted side bars and side mirrors, and the stock spoiler looks good too (but bad paint job), plus the stock alloy rims are much better than the steel rims that come with b-line

Just a comment from me on M-line's braking performance. Yesterday night I was a bit careless because I didn't notice the traffic light at the junction, so during emergency situation like this one would just slam on the brake pedal like I did. The braking distance was remarkably long, total wheel spin on the front wheels and you couldn't control the vehicle at this moment - if you steered a bit left or right your could would have skipped right away. As have been stated countless times here, the braking performance for B-line and M-line is questionable, since these two models are fitted with drum at the back and there's no ABS, EBD and brake assist to help you in emergency situation, and the boosters are kinda weak.

People who always preach "drive safely and sanely", but if another driver is careless (like I did last night ) you still end up in an accident no matter how careful you are. My advice, if budget permits get the H-line. B-line and M-line owners should consider changing their brake booster to Gen-2 booster, although for everyday driving the braking performance is acceptable.

Last but not least, if last night you saw a Persona doing an emergency brake at a junction in Ayer Keroh, please pardon my mistake - especially to the Kancil driver who was kind of pissed while staring at me.

leongwk15, an honest opinion from me would be the Campro isn't the best when it comes to fuel efficiency, and for better or worse, there's the bad habit of comparing the 1.6 engine to Myvi's 1.3 engine. 0.18-0.20/km is for me is acceptable for a 1.6, 1200kg car, as for some users reporting 0.14-0.15/km is actually achievable in the highway driving. In fact most most modern cars can get good fuel consumption when driving on the highway at constant speed.

As for the ang-mohs reporting different FC from the meter, please put in mind that the digital meter shows *average* fuel consumption and not instantaneous fuel consumption which one would like to think. You can try to ask each of them to reset the current FC reading and see how it goes. However, it might be possible that one unit consumes more fuel than the other because the engine tuning might be off (like in my case )

This post has been edited by nsty: Aug 29 2009, 12:06 AM