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 The Suiting Thread V1, Suit/Tuxedo/Sportcoat/Blazer

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xecton
post Apr 13 2010, 01:43 AM

The Reverend
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From: Penang


Hi guys,

I'll be getting a suit for my wedding dinner and have looked through the suits from G2000, Padini, Seed.
Tried on some of them and honestly, while I think they looked okay, I just felt that perhaps better suits can be found (been reading from page 1).
The material wasn't very impressive either.

So I thought why not get one tailored?
Went to the first tailor shop I found and asked for some info.
RM400 for a polyester suit and RM550 for a mix-wool suit. They take measurements, then 1 fitting and done.
I thought the price is not bad, cheaper than OTR.
Now the question is, if the tailor is not skilled, will the suit be worse than one OTR?

It's a long shot, but does anyone here know of a good tailor in Penang?



Oh... budget is kind of tight, so I can't afford to get those >RM1000
xecton
post Apr 13 2010, 09:22 AM

The Reverend
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Senior Member
734 posts

Joined: Feb 2006
From: Penang


Most probably 1 time use; my wedding.
But I need to use the suit 3 times, cause 2 dinners and 1 photo shoot.
xecton
post Apr 13 2010, 01:30 PM

The Reverend
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Senior Member
734 posts

Joined: Feb 2006
From: Penang


QUOTE(kotmj @ Apr 13 2010, 10:08 AM)
Well if you're not in a hurry you should educate yourself first by looking at pictures of good suits. That way, you'll perceive if the tailor has done a good job during the first fitting. Just pay RM30 for another fitting. It will make a difference if you know good fit.

Go for a conservative colour, like charcoal or navy. Buy a pocket square. Ask for side adjusters on the pants -- no belt loops.
*
Well, I've been trying to do that, just not that confident of my judgement.

I believe that side adjusters haven't been mentioned before in this thread.
Did a short search for it, and apparently it marks that the pants are made for the wearer.
Aside from that, why side adjusters over belt loops (hence belt)?
xecton
post Apr 14 2010, 12:27 AM

The Reverend
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Senior Member
734 posts

Joined: Feb 2006
From: Penang


QUOTE(kotmj @ Apr 13 2010, 07:53 PM)

Added on April 13, 2010, 9:10 pm
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


More comfortable. Hate belts.
*
Does this goes well with a non-pleated pants?
xecton
post Apr 15 2010, 04:20 PM

The Reverend
*****
Senior Member
734 posts

Joined: Feb 2006
From: Penang


Hi guys..

I've committed a tailor to do my suit.

However, after discussing with with him and the measurements taken, I felt that his style is rather old fashion.
The jacket length he prefers seems a bit too long, so are the sleeves.
He thinks that it is okay either way for the shirt cuffs to show or not. In fact, he showed me pictures and claimed that the cuffs appear only because of movement.
I cannot understand what he is talking about when he talked about the shoulder.

Anyway, I've told him to hold off until I get back to him.

Can I get some pointers to guide him to a more modern suit? I've tried looking back to the pages but its 120 pages long.

My plan is to further educate myself and bring my notebook with pictures to him. His catalogs are rather dated.



As for why I chose him even though I'm not satisfied with him, its a stupid story too troublesome to tell and to explain. Please forgive me tongue.gif
xecton
post Apr 15 2010, 05:07 PM

The Reverend
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Senior Member
734 posts

Joined: Feb 2006
From: Penang


Ah yes, thanks for the reminder. I've reread it and it points to

QUOTE(kotmj)
natural shoulders, high armholes, open front cut, clean back, generous lapel roll, somewhat slanted pockets, horsehair in the lapels and very waisted.


Honestly I don't understand much of the terminology used but will research upon it.
xecton
post Apr 15 2010, 11:44 PM

The Reverend
*****
Senior Member
734 posts

Joined: Feb 2006
From: Penang


QUOTE(kotmj @ Apr 15 2010, 06:45 PM)
Well, at this stage, you have to worry only about the armholes. Tell him you want really small armholes, just big enough for your arms to slide in (with difficulty).

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


However, you may find that you cannot stretch your arms forwards (reaching for a glass of water) if the tailor is not accustomed to this cut. You must tell him to add additional cloth to the back of the armsyce to compensate for the lost of size in the armhole. The extra cloth must be restricted to the back of the armscye, the upper back should remain clean and smooth. My tailor has enough IQ and taste to follow this; I imagine many do not.


And yeah, I subjected my tailor to a lengthy photographic dissection of various well-fitting jackets on my ThinkPad. But you cannot just show him pics of suits you like. You have to point out exactly what parts of the suit you like, and how they differ from his.


Added on April 15, 2010, 6:50 pmAnd take lots of well-lit pics (front, back, side) during your first fitting and post them here. Just stand in your natural posture and relax your shoulders. Let your arms hang where they want to.
*
This extra cloth you are talking about, is it visible on a finish jacket?
Any pictorial guide?
xecton
post Apr 16 2010, 01:09 AM

The Reverend
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Senior Member
734 posts

Joined: Feb 2006
From: Penang


You are a life saver. A really big thanks.
I'll have another chat with the tailor tomorrow and see how it works out.
xecton
post Apr 17 2010, 12:15 PM

The Reverend
*****
Senior Member
734 posts

Joined: Feb 2006
From: Penang


I've talked to the tailor uncle, mainly about making the armhole smaller.
He understands that smaller armhole will prevent the jacket from rising with your arm, and the extra cloth behind the armscye will give flexibility to arm movements.
But he also insists that the jacket shoulder rising is a normal thing to happen.
We parted on he making the armhole an sensibly small as possible. Hope that is going to turn out okay...

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