The Suiting Thread V1, Suit/Tuxedo/Sportcoat/Blazer
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 Apr 5 2010, 01:06 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
428 posts Joined: May 2006 From: JB--Cyber  
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i have a question here about "gorge" and "open quarter"~
Is it mean that A is gorge, B is the size of the "open quarter" based on the picture? **Jind86, sorry for borrowing your picture~~ please let me know if you wish me to use another.  A high gorge, mean the V is more smaller? This post has been edited by UltraConductor_41: Apr 5 2010, 01:07 PM |
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Apr 5 2010, 01:23 PM
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#2
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Junior Member
428 posts Joined: May 2006 From: JB--Cyber
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QUOTE(kotmj @ Apr 5 2010, 01:20 PM) B is davids pussi so...open quarter means..? |
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Apr 5 2010, 02:22 PM
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#3
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Junior Member
428 posts Joined: May 2006 From: JB--Cyber
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QUOTE(kotmj @ Apr 5 2010, 01:27 PM) i'll let david answer. im munching on my lunch now ok~enjoy~  QUOTE(jind86 @ Apr 5 2010, 02:05 PM) to put it simply: icic~~ok ...i get what you mean~~ really thanks for the help~ the gorge is the area where the collar and the lapel meet.. yes, an open quarter refers to the high degree of spread between the two front bottoms.. as opposed to closed quarters which refer to little (or no) spread.. example of closed quarters: » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «  cos im actually going to custom made my first suit in my life... after read thru the previous hundred page and google...still cant get a confirm meaning of the gorge and open quarter. But now i clear my doubt~ thanks for the help again~  |
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Apr 5 2010, 02:42 PM
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#4
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Junior Member
428 posts Joined: May 2006 From: JB--Cyber
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QUOTE(kotmj @ Apr 5 2010, 02:30 PM) The gorge is the little notch on the lapel. It can be high up on the shoulder or low on the chest. The former is in vogue. icic~~ok~ understood...because in internet..there is some people define gorge as the V shape opening in front of the chest..thats why i get real confuse~ A is not the gorge. It is influenced by the buttoning point. Added on April 5, 2010, 2:32 pm which tailor will you be using?  erm...not a famous 1 like you all does as i have some budget constraint. So i go for Kinslager... since no one here ever went there.. then i will be the guinea pig~~ i saw they have 2k fans in their facebook..so..hamtam la..LOL~ will give feedback when i get mine..  |
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Apr 12 2010, 12:00 AM
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#5
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Junior Member
428 posts Joined: May 2006 From: JB--Cyber
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just went for 1st fitting for my newly made suit~ i wondering...how thick is your suit's shoulder pad?
i tried mine today...its thin near my neck..and thick near my shoulder drop line.... so..i ask the tailor to reduce the thickness of the shoulder pad near my shoulder drop line..is it a wise decision? |
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Apr 12 2010, 12:58 AM
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#6
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Junior Member
428 posts Joined: May 2006 From: JB--Cyber
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QUOTE(FusioneX @ Apr 12 2010, 12:16 AM) You should have brought along a friend to help you take pictures during your fitting session so that we can offer you an accurate opinion. yeah~i got bring camera..but 4get to use it during fitting.. Pad thickness varies depending on how sloped your shoulder is and the tailor will be the one who will make the call. Remember, different people has different physique.  hmmm...from mirror..my shoulder with that thick of shoulder pad is ok~ look slope also...... its sloper than this:  but less sloper than this:  according to physic...thats mean if i further reduce the thickness of the pad near my shoulder line... it will look more slope...is it?~ here is a reference figure. The black color is my shoulder...red color is the pad thickness..blue color is the final outlook of the suit~  sorry for kotmj and jind86~~ used your suit photo again~~  This post has been edited by UltraConductor_41: Apr 12 2010, 12:59 AM |
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Apr 12 2010, 01:57 AM
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#7
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Junior Member
428 posts Joined: May 2006 From: JB--Cyber
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QUOTE(kotmj @ Apr 12 2010, 01:06 AM) Tailors have these ready-made pads that they use for everyone, regardless of physique. So if you have the misfortune of relatively horizontal shoulders, your suit shoulders will go beyond horizontal. The shoulder seam needs to be recut to accommodate a thinner pad. It's not just about removing wadding. icic~~ now only i know that those pad are ready made... and luckily my shoulder is not horizontal based~ Whether it was a wise decision depends on the caliber of the tailor. But I've not actually met a tailor smart enough to realize these nuances. Many also do not get the curvature of the pads right, which results in strange geometries in the upper chest. I was at one of the many Gulatis today at Jln TAR and the in-house "tailor" was brought in to consult on some jacket linings. I have never seen a more ridiculous or ill-informed tailor. The thing is, most tailors are like him. You are in big trouble when the customer knows more about your job than you. Which, BTW, is the position the company I work for is in. Some of our customers are more sophisticated about our product category than us. They tell us how to make their stuff for them. Which is what you often need to do with tailors. Except for an elite few. Well actually, except for one. Added on April 12, 2010, 1:16 amIf your shoulders with suit on looks more horizontal than mine, then it is quite built up (according to my taste). But some people like a strong shoulder. Will you get a second fitting? hmmm..(shoulder seam..just googled it...its the connection point between the front and rear piece of cloth) but how come the shoulder seam need to be recut? i tot it will still stay at the same place...just the height will be lower abit...? during fitting i only think of removing some wadding will done the job~ the thickness of pad according to my feel, its around 0.3cm near my neck, and goes to 1cm at my shoulder drop line. but ofcos..its still look slope~ i just feel weird when someone touch my shoulder...the thing he contact is the pad instead of my shoulder..LOL yes, im 1 of that kind of customer...i do take this thing seriously as this is my 1st suit...thats why i need to learn all the basic thing before i can give proper instruction of what i want to the tailor. sometime they just wont notice those small thing until you pointed it out... just like the height of the vent, gorge, and shoulder pad..as my predicted outcome of the sloppiness....mine will still be a little more built up than yours...but as personally preference...its good to create an illusion that you have a strong shoulder for GIRLS to lean on...isnt it...  i dont think there will be a second fitting as i kinda push them to done it for me within 19 days before i pay them... and currently the predicted complete date they told me is 14 days (now is 7th day). so..hope everything goes well~  but will still try to check is it ok for the second fitting in next few days~ This post has been edited by UltraConductor_41: Apr 12 2010, 02:01 AM |
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Apr 21 2010, 12:07 AM
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#8
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Junior Member
428 posts Joined: May 2006 From: JB--Cyber
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my suit coming~~~
today go checked...tot can collect today..but then they forget to make correction in the vent height... during first fitting i ask for 8inch...but they use back normal 1 which is 10inch...  gonna collect it again at thurs~sorry for the photo..took in a rush with no good pose and no good setting~ somemore the mirror faced the sunlight.. gonna take a nice 1 during my final collection~  |
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Apr 21 2010, 01:43 PM
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#9
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Junior Member
428 posts Joined: May 2006 From: JB--Cyber
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QUOTE(kotmj @ Apr 21 2010, 01:27 PM) can't really see much. ask someone else to take your pic and keep your hands out of your pockets. the buttons look humongous though. yeah~~really cant see much from that photo~~ gonna take another 1 2moro~ lol....button size...nvr think if this be4~ |
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