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 The Suiting Thread V1, Suit/Tuxedo/Sportcoat/Blazer

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bloke1
post Apr 12 2010, 02:05 PM

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Hacking pockets = Wan doi
Blind stitch on pants hem = TTIIUU foo kiok
Machine stitch on pants hem = tcheh foo kiok


Added on April 12, 2010, 2:08 pm
Wool = Yoong/yeong mou
Dacron = Tek lon
Nylon = Lai lon

This post has been edited by bloke1: Apr 12 2010, 02:17 PM
malutapimau
post Apr 12 2010, 04:53 PM

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how do you say cuff?
bloke1
post Apr 12 2010, 05:33 PM

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I thought I've mentioned it in the above?


Added on April 12, 2010, 5:48 pmI should seriously consider setting up a Chinese tailoring class alongside with MBT to generate some side income. So you want to learn?brows.gif

This post has been edited by bloke1: Apr 12 2010, 05:48 PM
kotmj
post Apr 12 2010, 06:25 PM

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Dun be so cocky, I have a long list of terms for you to translate.
kotmj
post Apr 12 2010, 07:45 PM

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Loke-sifu, I need the following terms in Cantonese:

Horsehair/goathair/camelhair/wool canvas
Linen
Felt (chest padding)
Bemberg/Cupro lining
Shoulder pad
Fusible interlining
MOP buttons
Horn buttons (ngau kok lau?)

Boutonniere
Quarters/front cut
Lapel hole (now I’m using “fong fa gea loong”)
Side adjusters
3 roll 2.5/2
Buttoned cuffs
Extended waistband
Button fly
Braces
Collar
Cuff (shirt)
Loop on collar for hanging jacket
Inlays
Piping
Dart
Waistcoat

Pad stitching
Spalla camicia
Half lining
Natural shoulders
Creases/pulling of cloth
Excess drape
Plain/panama weave
Full canvassing
Curvature of shoulder pad
Removable collar stays
On the bias

This post has been edited by kotmj: Apr 12 2010, 07:53 PM
bloke1
post Apr 12 2010, 08:57 PM

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Damn it, I don't come from China.

Waistcoat = bui sum
3 roll 2.5/2 = sam look dou 2.5 (?)

I need to refer to MBT for the others. Give me some time.


Added on April 12, 2010, 9:01 pmLoop on collar for hanging jacket = kua sam geh huen


Added on April 12, 2010, 9:03 pmLapel hole (now I’m using “fong fa gea loong”) = I use Chap fa gea lau moon

This post has been edited by bloke1: Apr 12 2010, 09:03 PM
kotmj
post Apr 12 2010, 11:21 PM

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Well I just came back from ISTT, and boy did the terms here make *my* life easier. Fan keok! Fu thau mou kam foot!

I also learnt something new from him:

synthetic fibers=kau zhat

Just commissoned myself linen trousers with extended waistband, side adjusters, 1.5" cuffs and back patch pockets.


Added on April 12, 2010, 11:22 pmOh yeah: RM48.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Apr 12 2010, 11:22 PM
xecton
post Apr 13 2010, 01:43 AM

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Hi guys,

I'll be getting a suit for my wedding dinner and have looked through the suits from G2000, Padini, Seed.
Tried on some of them and honestly, while I think they looked okay, I just felt that perhaps better suits can be found (been reading from page 1).
The material wasn't very impressive either.

So I thought why not get one tailored?
Went to the first tailor shop I found and asked for some info.
RM400 for a polyester suit and RM550 for a mix-wool suit. They take measurements, then 1 fitting and done.
I thought the price is not bad, cheaper than OTR.
Now the question is, if the tailor is not skilled, will the suit be worse than one OTR?

It's a long shot, but does anyone here know of a good tailor in Penang?



Oh... budget is kind of tight, so I can't afford to get those >RM1000
silencer
post Apr 13 2010, 08:47 AM

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QUOTE(xecton @ Apr 13 2010, 01:43 AM)
Hi guys,

I'll be getting a suit for my wedding dinner and have looked through the suits from G2000, Padini, Seed.
Tried on some of them and honestly, while I think they looked okay, I just felt that perhaps better suits can be found (been reading from page 1).
The material wasn't very impressive either.

So I thought why not get one tailored?
Went to the first tailor shop I found and asked for some info.
RM400 for a polyester suit and RM550 for a mix-wool suit. They take measurements, then 1 fitting and done.
I thought the price is not bad, cheaper than OTR.
Now the question is, if the tailor is not skilled, will the suit be worse than one OTR?

It's a long shot, but does anyone here know of a good tailor in Penang?
Oh... budget is kind of tight, so I can't afford to get those >RM1000
*
The question is will it be a one-time or for long-term usage.
xecton
post Apr 13 2010, 09:22 AM

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Most probably 1 time use; my wedding.
But I need to use the suit 3 times, cause 2 dinners and 1 photo shoot.
kotmj
post Apr 13 2010, 10:08 AM

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Well if you're not in a hurry you should educate yourself first by looking at pictures of good suits. That way, you'll perceive if the tailor has done a good job during the first fitting. Just pay RM30 for another fitting. It will make a difference if you know good fit.

Go for a conservative colour, like charcoal or navy. Buy a pocket square. Ask for side adjusters on the pants -- no belt loops.
malutapimau
post Apr 13 2010, 10:12 AM

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loke-sifu,,,how do we say chickenfoot stitched button with shank?
how do we say cross stictched button with shank?

thx
xecton
post Apr 13 2010, 01:30 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Apr 13 2010, 10:08 AM)
Well if you're not in a hurry you should educate yourself first by looking at pictures of good suits. That way, you'll perceive if the tailor has done a good job during the first fitting. Just pay RM30 for another fitting. It will make a difference if you know good fit.

Go for a conservative colour, like charcoal or navy. Buy a pocket square. Ask for side adjusters on the pants -- no belt loops.
*
Well, I've been trying to do that, just not that confident of my judgement.

I believe that side adjusters haven't been mentioned before in this thread.
Did a short search for it, and apparently it marks that the pants are made for the wearer.
Aside from that, why side adjusters over belt loops (hence belt)?
TSjind86
post Apr 13 2010, 03:18 PM

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anyway to tell from this pictures if these are indeed horn?




Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image
silencer
post Apr 13 2010, 03:34 PM

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QUOTE(jind86 @ Apr 13 2010, 03:18 PM)
anyway to tell from this pictures if these are indeed horn?
*
let me guess.....ralph lauren.....
TSjind86
post Apr 13 2010, 03:37 PM

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well, thats what he wrote for the title.. apparently they come out from the same factory where RL clothes are made..


Added on April 13, 2010, 3:37 pmthey look gorgeous though..


Added on April 13, 2010, 3:38 pmbtw, you got ur ermazine from http://www.theliningcompany.co.uk right?

This post has been edited by jind86: Apr 13 2010, 03:38 PM
silencer
post Apr 13 2010, 03:41 PM

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QUOTE(jind86 @ Apr 13 2010, 03:37 PM)
well, thats what he wrote for the title.. apparently they come out from the same factory where RL clothes are made..


Added on April 13, 2010, 3:37 pmthey look gorgeous though..


Added on April 13, 2010, 3:38 pmbtw, you got ur ermazine from http://www.theliningcompany.co.uk right?
*
yup...in fact...i just made the purchase for 7 meters of ermazine (pink color) as the only available colors is either pink or olive, together with several horn buttons...for my future commissioning of 2 suit.
kotmj
post Apr 13 2010, 03:45 PM

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QUOTE(silencer @ Apr 13 2010, 03:41 PM)
yup...in fact...i just made the purchase for 7 meters of ermazine (pink color) as the only available colors is either pink or olive, together with several horn buttons...for my future commissioning of 2 suit.
*
You're making the same mistake I made. The full range of colours is available, as there are 3 categories of viscose ermazine. You need to click around more there, it's a terrible site. There is also a premium ermazine and the usual ermazine. Contact them to reverse your order!


Added on April 13, 2010, 3:46 pm
QUOTE(jind86 @ Apr 13 2010, 03:18 PM)
anyway to tell from this pictures if these are indeed horn?
*
These are reconstituted horn, they are not the real thing. The lining site has the real stuff.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Apr 13 2010, 03:46 PM
TSjind86
post Apr 13 2010, 03:49 PM

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there are some new colors:

http://www.theliningcompany.co.uk/catalog/...id=xdatidpqmoiv


Added on April 13, 2010, 3:50 pmis this the premium ermazine?

http://www.theliningcompany.co.uk/catalog/...id=xdatidpqmoiv

This post has been edited by jind86: Apr 13 2010, 03:50 PM
kotmj
post Apr 13 2010, 03:53 PM

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^Yes. I think we should pool our orders and make a big order. They charge 25 pounds to ship things here. I believe walnek is looking for ermazine as well.

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