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 The Suiting Thread V1, Suit/Tuxedo/Sportcoat/Blazer

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kotmj
post Apr 11 2010, 02:40 PM

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I'm wearing it. Should I take it off?
kotmj
post Apr 11 2010, 03:26 PM

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I prefer Loke7chai.
kotmj
post Apr 11 2010, 03:34 PM

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nod.gif
bloke1
post Apr 11 2010, 04:24 PM

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Cuss you all!

F.seX, I spent half an hour polishing the crystal and look what you've done to my grandpa's watch?! Seriously go dig your own heirloom!


Added on April 11, 2010, 7:22 pm
QUOTE(FusioneX @ Apr 11 2010, 03:30 PM)
So be it. We shall settle for Loke7chai. Such affectionate nickname, should teach him not to get too creative with other people's nick.  laugh.gif
If he does come down to KL for iGent's meet, you know what to call him.
*
KL? What's the fun? You iLalas will be cooked alive! I suggest going up the highlands unless it's the Tat Sing slippers meeting.

This post has been edited by bloke1: Apr 11 2010, 07:25 PM
kotmj
post Apr 11 2010, 08:34 PM

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Well if you mean Genting Highlands, there is a chance, but a slim one. Cameron H. OTOH has zero chance. Nobody would go there except F.sex (and only because of you).

I personally don't fancy a fashion show sort of meetup. You know, where people dress up and such. It makes me nervous, and it's unnatural to me.

I prefer working meetups. Where there is something to be done together: attend a fair/show, see a first fitting, see one of us commissioning a jacket and have the tailor draft the pattern in front of us, shop for fabrics and buttons, etc.

If we ever have a meetup, I shall bring you guys to the haberdasher with MOPs and you can raid the shop and commit acts of cannibalism to owner and staff.
bloke1
post Apr 11 2010, 09:04 PM

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Don't you dress up nicely everyday? Of course those wearing t-shirts will be beaten and thrown off the cliff without mercy.

After dealing with MBT over the few years, I've decided to make ALT's life easier(and longer) by preparing a list of tailoring jargons in Cantonese parlance since none of you here can actually speak a word.

Now let's see...

Coat = dai sam
Odd coat = dan sam
Tight fitting = Zhak san
Close fitting = Teep san
Notch lapel = yu zui(fishmouth)
Buttonhole = lau moon
Working sleeve buttons = sang doong jao lau
Lining = tork dai
Vent = hoi char
Pick stitch = teng bin
Waistband = foo tau
Cuffs = fan kiok
Belt loops = yi zai
Flat front = peng min

Let me think more...

This post has been edited by bloke1: Apr 11 2010, 09:07 PM
kotmj
post Apr 11 2010, 09:11 PM

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I dig that list above. Please add to it as you think of more.

I found out that the dark shell buttons I bought are from the paua shell:

user posted image

Here is my paua shell button next to a white MOP. These MOPs are of the cheaper variety, and are therefore rather thin. But in terms of iridescence they are the same to the thicker ones, I imagine.

user posted image

user posted image


Added on April 11, 2010, 9:19 pmCanvas=phok
Button=lau
Sew buttons=teng lau

This post has been edited by kotmj: Apr 11 2010, 09:26 PM
bloke1
post Apr 11 2010, 09:33 PM

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Those buttons are nice but I don't have any dark shirts.


Added on April 11, 2010, 9:38 pmFitting = see sun
Placket = tcheh bin

This post has been edited by bloke1: Apr 11 2010, 10:15 PM
lanatir
post Apr 11 2010, 09:44 PM

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QUOTE(bloke1 @ Apr 11 2010, 09:04 PM)
Don't you dress up nicely everyday? Of course those wearing t-shirts will be beaten and thrown off the cliff without mercy.

After dealing with MBT over the few years, I've decided to make ALT's life easier(and longer) by preparing a list of tailoring jargons in Cantonese parlance since none of you here can actually speak a word.

Now let's see...

Coat = dai sam
Odd coat = dan sam
Tight fitting = Zhak san
Close fitting = Teep san 
Notch lapel = yu zui(fishmouth)
Buttonhole = lau moon
Working sleeve buttons = sang doong jao lau
Lining = tork dai
Vent = hoi char 
Pick stitch = teng bin
Waistband = foo tau
Cuffs = fan kiok
Belt loops = yi zai
Flat front = peng min

Let me think more...
*
very cool list thumbup.gif
kotmj
post Apr 11 2010, 09:54 PM

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Is yu zhui your approved notch style?
crapoccur
post Apr 11 2010, 09:57 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Apr 11 2010, 08:34 PM)
Well if you mean Genting Highlands, there is a chance, but a slim one. Cameron H. OTOH has zero chance. Nobody would go there except F.sex (and only because of you).

I personally don't fancy a fashion show sort of meetup. You know, where people dress up and such. It makes me nervous, and it's unnatural to me.

I prefer working meetups. Where there is something to be done together: attend a fair/show, see a first fitting, see one of us commissioning a jacket and have the tailor draft the pattern in front of us, shop for fabrics and buttons, etc.

If we ever have a meetup, I shall bring you guys to the haberdasher with MOPs and you can raid the shop and commit acts of cannibalism to owner and staff.
*
please let me tag along..
UltraConductor_41
post Apr 12 2010, 12:00 AM

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just went for 1st fitting for my newly made suit~ i wondering...how thick is your suit's shoulder pad?
i tried mine today...its thin near my neck..and thick near my shoulder drop line.... so..i ask the tailor to reduce the thickness of the shoulder pad near my shoulder drop line..is it a wise decision?
U+FFFD
post Apr 12 2010, 12:16 AM


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QUOTE(UltraConductor_41 @ Apr 12 2010, 12:00 AM)
just went for 1st fitting for my newly made suit~ i wondering...how thick is your suit's shoulder pad?
i tried mine today...its thin near my neck..and thick near my shoulder drop line.... so..i ask the tailor to reduce the thickness of the shoulder pad near my shoulder drop line..is it a wise decision?
*
You should have brought along a friend to help you take pictures during your fitting session so that we can offer you an accurate opinion.
Pad thickness varies depending on how sloped your shoulder is and the tailor will be the one who will make the call. Remember, different people has different physique.
UltraConductor_41
post Apr 12 2010, 12:58 AM

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QUOTE(FusioneX @ Apr 12 2010, 12:16 AM)
You should have brought along a friend to help you take pictures during your fitting session so that we can offer you an accurate opinion.
Pad thickness varies depending on how sloped your shoulder is and the tailor will be the one who will make the call. Remember, different people has different physique.
*
yeah~i got bring camera..but 4get to use it during fitting.. doh.gif
hmmm...from mirror..my shoulder with that thick of shoulder pad is ok~ look slope also......

its sloper than this:
user posted image

but less sloper than this:
user posted image

according to physic...thats mean if i further reduce the thickness of the pad near my shoulder line... it will look more slope...is it?~
here is a reference figure. The black color is my shoulder...red color is the pad thickness..blue color is the final outlook of the suit~
user posted image


sorry for kotmj and jind86~~ used your suit photo again~~ blush.gif

This post has been edited by UltraConductor_41: Apr 12 2010, 12:59 AM
kotmj
post Apr 12 2010, 01:06 AM

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QUOTE(UltraConductor_41 @ Apr 12 2010, 12:00 AM)
just went for 1st fitting for my newly made suit~ i wondering...how thick is your suit's shoulder pad?
i tried mine today...its thin near my neck..and thick near my shoulder drop line.... so..i ask the tailor to reduce the thickness of the shoulder pad near my shoulder drop line..is it a wise decision?
*
Tailors have these ready-made pads that they use for everyone, regardless of physique. So if you have the misfortune of relatively horizontal shoulders, your suit shoulders will go beyond horizontal. The shoulder seam needs to be recut to accommodate a thinner pad. It's not just about removing wadding.

Whether it was a wise decision depends on the caliber of the tailor. But I've not actually met a tailor smart enough to realize these nuances. Many also do not get the curvature of the pads right, which results in strange geometries in the upper chest.

I was at one of the many Gulatis today at Jln TAR and the in-house "tailor" was brought in to consult on some jacket linings. I have never seen a more ridiculous or ill-informed tailor. The thing is, most tailors are like him. You are in big trouble when the customer knows more about your job than you.

Which, BTW, is the position the company I work for is in. Some of our customers are more sophisticated about our product category than us. They tell us how to make their stuff for them. Which is what you often need to do with tailors. Except for an elite few. Well actually, except for one.


Added on April 12, 2010, 1:16 amIf your shoulders with suit on looks more horizontal than mine, then it is quite built up (according to my taste). But some people like a strong shoulder.

Will you get a second fitting?

This post has been edited by kotmj: Apr 12 2010, 01:16 AM
UltraConductor_41
post Apr 12 2010, 01:57 AM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Apr 12 2010, 01:06 AM)
Tailors have these ready-made pads that they use for everyone, regardless of physique. So if you have the misfortune of relatively horizontal shoulders, your suit shoulders will go beyond horizontal. The shoulder seam needs to be recut to accommodate a thinner pad. It's not just about removing wadding.

Whether it was a wise decision depends on the caliber of the tailor. But I've not actually met a tailor smart enough to realize these nuances. Many also do not get the curvature of the pads right, which results in strange geometries in the upper chest.

I was at one of the many Gulatis today at Jln TAR and the in-house "tailor" was brought in to consult on some jacket linings. I have never seen a more ridiculous or ill-informed tailor. The thing is, most tailors are like him. You are in big trouble when the customer knows more about your job than you.

Which, BTW, is the position the company I work for is in. Some of our customers are more sophisticated about our product category than us. They tell us how to make their stuff for them. Which is what you often need to do with tailors. Except for an elite few. Well actually, except for one.


Added on April 12, 2010, 1:16 amIf your shoulders with suit on looks more horizontal than mine, then it is quite built up (according to my taste). But some people like a strong shoulder.

Will you get a second fitting?
*
icic~~ now only i know that those pad are ready made... and luckily my shoulder is not horizontal based~ biggrin.gif hmmm..(shoulder seam..just googled it...its the connection point between the front and rear piece of cloth) but how come the shoulder seam need to be recut? i tot it will still stay at the same place...just the height will be lower abit...? during fitting i only think of removing some wadding will done the job~ doh.gif the thickness of pad according to my feel, its around 0.3cm near my neck, and goes to 1cm at my shoulder drop line. but ofcos..its still look slope~ i just feel weird when someone touch my shoulder...the thing he contact is the pad instead of my shoulder..LOL tongue.gif

yes, im 1 of that kind of customer...i do take this thing seriously as this is my 1st suit...thats why i need to learn all the basic thing before i can give proper instruction of what i want to the tailor. sometime they just wont notice those small thing until you pointed it out... tongue.gif just like the height of the vent, gorge, and shoulder pad..

as my predicted outcome of the sloppiness....mine will still be a little more built up than yours...but as personally preference...its good to create an illusion that you have a strong shoulder for GIRLS to lean on...isnt it... wub.gif tongue.gif

i dont think there will be a second fitting as i kinda push them to done it for me within 19 days before i pay them... and currently the predicted complete date they told me is 14 days (now is 7th day). tongue.gif so..hope everything goes well~ whistling.gif
but will still try to check is it ok for the second fitting in next few days~

This post has been edited by UltraConductor_41: Apr 12 2010, 02:01 AM
kotmj
post Apr 12 2010, 08:18 AM

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Well you can pleasantly ask for a second fitting. Or just drop in today and try it on again. Then when you are there, have the tailor take well-lit pics (front, side, back). Mention you found out about the promo through this forum, and that you will post the fit pics here. That some people want to use the promo, but are waiting for you to go first. Then ask him if it won't trouble him too much if you come for another fitting based on feedback from the forum. Say you are nervous because it's your first suit, that you love him, eternally grateful, etc.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Apr 12 2010, 08:35 AM
bloke1
post Apr 12 2010, 09:32 AM

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"I told my tailor that I wanted the armhole to be higher and smaller, the sleeves to be much slimmer.
My tailor laughed and asked "why would you want to look like a lady?"

Many Malaysian tailors still adhere to this ideology.
malutapimau
post Apr 12 2010, 10:17 AM

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local tailors like add 5" for the armholes--they even add 5" for every measurements //and 1" for sleeve length
silencer
post Apr 12 2010, 11:22 AM

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QUOTE(malutapimau @ Apr 12 2010, 10:17 AM)
local tailors like add 5" for the armholes--they even add 5" for every measurements //and 1" for sleeve length
*
+1

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