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 The Suiting Thread V1, Suit/Tuxedo/Sportcoat/Blazer

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kotmj
post Apr 7 2010, 12:18 PM

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QUOTE(silencer @ Apr 7 2010, 03:06 AM)
The pic were taken in a hurry, just for reference for ALT suit.....kid mohair cloth with full lining emerzine and horn buttons.....

[attachmentid=1515435]
[attachmentid=1515436]
[attachmentid=1515437]
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I shall reserve my comments until others have made theirs!
Neek
post Apr 7 2010, 01:34 PM

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QUOTE(silencer @ Apr 7 2010, 03:06 AM)
The pic were taken in a hurry, just for reference for ALT suit.....kid mohair cloth with full lining emerzine and horn buttons.....

[attachmentid=1515435]
[attachmentid=1515436]
[attachmentid=1515437]
*
From the back, it looks great.

from the front, it doesnt look as waist-ed as expected. issit cos arms are slightly lifted?
also, the collars/lapels doesnt seem to be pressed down very well near the top button. seems to stick out
the armholes doesnt look that high tho. mebbe its just the lighting.
Overall, everything else looks great.
sleeves showing. shoulders looks right. beats the crap out of any ready to wear suits.
kotmj
post Apr 7 2010, 06:27 PM

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The lapel roll is actually a feature, not a bug.

Calvin, your take?
bloke1
post Apr 7 2010, 06:53 PM

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-Quarters are very damned close.
-ALT's notch styling?
-No lapel buttonhole?
-Prefer to see more shirt collar.

+Back is clean
+Sleeves look alright too

!!Lose the shirt!!
kotmj
post Apr 7 2010, 06:59 PM

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The quarters and lack of waisting I suspect are due to his askew arms.
mansion_11
post Apr 7 2010, 09:36 PM

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need help!!A.S.A.P!!
where to buy a waistcoat or vest..
price between rm50-rm80..
silencer
post Apr 7 2010, 09:46 PM

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QUOTE(bloke1 @ Apr 7 2010, 06:53 PM)
!!Lose the shirt!!
*
Thanks for the honest comment ..and it was my fault for wearing that shirt as I was in a hurry for a flight to Aussie as most of the proper dress had been put in the luggage...should iron it first before taking the picture..and I wont throw it away as it is a Zegna dress shirt...

By the way...here is the new pic taken with a proper attire...

Attached Image

This post has been edited by silencer: Apr 7 2010, 09:55 PM
kotmj
post Apr 7 2010, 11:19 PM

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QUOTE(mansion_11 @ Apr 7 2010, 09:36 PM)
need help!!A.S.A.P!!
where to buy a waistcoat or vest..
price between rm50-rm80..
*
China
kotmj
post Apr 7 2010, 11:54 PM

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Silencer, I think you have a very well-made suit there, as you know yourself. From the pictures it's obvious the cloth drapes remarkably well for its weight. This is an 8 oz cloth, and if it were made of pure wool it would wear like pajamas. There would be sharp wrinkling and chronic creasing all over the place. Instead, your jacket drapes as if it were a 16 oz cloth. Here is the back of a jacket with such a heavy cloth by an accomplished tailor:

user posted image

Mohair really makes a big difference to the drape. It gives featherweight tropical cloths surprising firmness and shape. Also, it keeps this shape where wool sags and looses everything. My wool suit had to be repressed after several days in a hot car, but my kid mohair was as sharp as on Day 1.

There are only two issues that I can see: much less waisting than mine, and pretty lame quarters.

During the first fitting, I was under the impression it was more waisted than this. Maybe I saw it wrong, or maybe AL let it out a bit. Even on my second suit, he asked if he could let out the waist by 1". I said no. Did he ask you anything about making it less waisted on the second fitting? A strongly nipped waist is important to make the jacket interesting to look at. Without the waist, a jacket is shapeless and bland and bleh. Henry Poole agrees (ALT and HP even have the same type of notch shape):

user posted image

With regards the quarters: At the first fitting, the quarters were the most open I've seen AL cut. They were so open, in fact, that you may remember me staring and remarking about them to AL. But I did not ask him to change anything. Maybe he thought I disapproved, and happily changed it back to semi-closed ones since that's his house cut anyway. Ah well, you'll need to be more careful with the quarters in the future. You can console yourself with the fact that Anderson & Sheppard, too, cuts quarters like this.

Other than that, your suit is one-of-a-kind. You have a very well fitted jacket, with almost zero fitting flaws. The two issues I've addressed are a matter of taste, and are not technical problems with the fit. You have the coolest type of fabric and the breeziest lining around. Full-lining is the right choice because the cloth has a very open weave, and if it were half-lined, you'd be able to see a two-tone back due to a light-coloured shirt.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Apr 8 2010, 01:18 AM
silencer
post Apr 8 2010, 01:26 AM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Apr 7 2010, 11:54 PM)
Silencer, I think you have a very well-made suit there, as you know yourself. From the pictures it's obvious the cloth drapes remarkably well for its weight. This is an 8 oz cloth, and if it were made of pure wool it would wear like pajamas. There would be sharp wrinkling and chronic creasing all over the place. Instead, your jacket drapes as if it were a 16 oz cloth. Here is the back of a jacket with such a heavy cloth by an accomplished tailor:

user posted image

Mohair really makes a big difference to the drape. It gives featherweight tropical cloths surprising firmness and shape. Also, it keeps this shape where wool sags and looses everything. My wool suit had to be repressed after several days in a hot car, but my kid mohair was as sharp as on Day 1.

There are only two issues that I can see: much less waisting than mine, and pretty lame quarters.

During the first fitting, I was under the impression it was more waisted than this. Maybe I saw it wrong, or maybe AL let it out a bit. Even on my second suit, he asked if he could let out the waist by 1". I said no. Did he ask you anything about making it less waisted on the second fitting? A strongly nipped waist is important to make the jacket interesting to look at. Without the waist, a jacket is shapeless and bland and bleh. Henry Poole agrees (ALT and HP even have the same type of notch shape):

user posted image

With regards the quarters: At the first fitting, the quarters were the most open I've seen AL cut. They were so open, in fact, that you may remember me staring and remarking about them to AL. But I did not ask him to change anything. Maybe he thought I disapproved, and happily changed it back to semi-closed ones since that's his house cut anyway. Ah well, you'll need to be more careful with the quarters in the future. You can console yourself with the fact that Anderson & Sheppard, too, cuts quarters like this.

Other than that, your suit is one-of-a-kind. You have a very well fitted jacket, with almost zero fitting flaws. The two issues I've addressed are a matter of taste, and are not technical problems with the fit. You have the coolest type of fabric and the breeziest lining around. Full-lining is the right choice because the cloth has a very open weave, and if it were half-lined, you'd be able to see a two-tone back due to a light-coloured shirt.
*
Thanks kotmj.....yup, he keeps insisting me to make the waist a bit loose as it will be too tight if i am gaining weight. But, the bottom line is this suit has the cleanest back compared with my other 7 suits ...and behold with the comfort of his cut.......no restriction at all for any of my movements....kept wearing it even after yesterday's meeting while others had already taken out their jackets....

This post has been edited by silencer: Apr 8 2010, 01:27 AM
irmond
post Apr 8 2010, 04:38 AM

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QUOTE(mansion_11 @ Apr 7 2010, 09:36 PM)
need help!!A.S.A.P!!
where to buy a waistcoat or vest..
price between rm50-rm80..
*

go pyramid and look around..
u meant both of them for RM50~RM80, is abit impossible..no offense..

netmatrix
post Apr 8 2010, 11:38 AM

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QUOTE(mansion_11 @ Apr 7 2010, 09:36 PM)
need help!!A.S.A.P!!
where to buy a waistcoat or vest..
price between rm50-rm80..
*
Go to Jusco and look for their in house brand SUAVE. Got many designs since few months ago. Some look like they are Korean look inspired. Less than RM100. Or if you are really cheapskate, go to Mid Valley look for Kamdar and the vest is less than RM20, but looks very dated. rclxub.gif

This post has been edited by netmatrix: Apr 8 2010, 11:39 AM
U+FFFD
post Apr 8 2010, 02:15 PM


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QUOTE(mansion_11 @ Apr 7 2010, 09:36 PM)
need help!!A.S.A.P!!
where to buy a waistcoat or vest..
price between rm50-rm80..
*
Take netmatrix's suggestion. He has the best knowledge around here on where to get budget garments.
Although, I'd advise you to top up a little more to maybe around RM120+ and get one from our local brands such as Padini / SEED since they have a more modern cutting compared to SUAVE or those in Kamdars' (tried them on last time but the fit was not suitable as I'm quite slim).

QUOTE(irmond @ Apr 8 2010, 04:38 AM)
u meant both of them for RM50~RM80, is abit impossible..no offense..
*
Note: waistcoat and vest is actually the same thing - with the former being a British term while the latter is an American term. The American term is more widely-used by fashion retailers nowadays but some Britons might still interpret vest as tank tops and whatnot.

This post has been edited by Fusion[eX]: Apr 8 2010, 02:27 PM
TSjind86
post Apr 8 2010, 02:52 PM

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QUOTE(silencer @ Apr 7 2010, 09:46 PM)
Thanks for the honest comment ..and it was my fault for wearing that shirt as I was in a hurry for a flight to Aussie as most of the proper dress had been put in the luggage...should iron it first before taking the picture..and I wont throw it away as it is a Zegna dress shirt...

By the way...here is the new pic taken with a proper attire...

Attached Image
*
congrats to you on your new suit laugh.gif

does indeed look good on you, i suppose you shld opt for more open quarters in the future..
tr|n|ty
post Apr 8 2010, 03:10 PM

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Hello,

Just tailor made a suit for myself. Hope to have some honest opinions about my suit as I generally do not have an idea about it. I just did some rough reading here before I went to visit a tailor. At first, I thought of buying straight off the shelves but some comments here really influenced me to custom make it. It's quite pricey though sweat.gif , much more expensive than padini / g2000 which I planned to get earlier.. So I was wondering if it's worth my money spent. notworthy.gif

And pardon me for not wearing tie. sweat.gif


Attached Image
TSjind86
post Apr 8 2010, 03:25 PM

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QUOTE(tr|n|ty @ Apr 8 2010, 03:10 PM)
Hello,

Just tailor made a suit for myself. Hope to have some honest opinions about my suit as I generally do not have an idea about it. I just did some rough reading here before I went to visit a tailor. At first, I thought of buying straight off the shelves but some comments here really influenced me to custom make it. It's quite pricey though  sweat.gif , much more expensive than padini / g2000 which I planned to get earlier.. So I was wondering if it's worth my money spent.  notworthy.gif   

And pardon me for not wearing tie.  sweat.gif 
Attached Image
*
looks good i'd say, nice shoulders, wonderful lapel roll, i like the roped shoulders..

button stance a little too high for my liking, should be lowered a little.. waist probably should be tapered just a little more..
tr|n|ty
post Apr 8 2010, 03:59 PM

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jind86,

thanks.

i'm quite tall and very skinny, 175cm at only 60-63kgs blush.gif . at first i asked to be tapered more but he said i will look like a lamp post later on. so i just stick with it. i wonder should i bring back and request it to be tapered a little bit more and if it is still possible? and the button stance, it is normal or it's a flaw?
kotmj
post Apr 8 2010, 04:20 PM

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Looks good from the front, shoulders are done very well, sleeve rotation a bit out but who cares, very nice lapel roll, sleeves a bit shorter than I personally like (0.25").

Shape is a bit lacking, both in the chest and in the waist. He can make it more waisted if you want and no you won't look like a lamp post. But it's good as it is.

Who was the tailor and how much did you pay and can you take a pic of the back?
tr|n|ty
post Apr 8 2010, 04:41 PM

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kotmj,

did it at bespoked. paid 1.8k for full wool. >.< haihz, forgot to take the back pic at the 1st place. @@ maybe later after i got back home, find a time and take pics again with complete wear.

kotmj, do you think i should amend the waist line or any other parts? or just stick to it as it's fine just not perfect.


bloke1
post Apr 8 2010, 05:01 PM

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Go and fix the sleeves and come back with more pictures.

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