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 The Suiting Thread V1, Suit/Tuxedo/Sportcoat/Blazer

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kotmj
post Apr 1 2010, 11:44 PM

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I'm still ruminating on lining possibilities, now that ermazine is no longer available to us in Malaysia. But this will have the usual structure in the front, i.e. chest padding, padded lapels, etc. It will also be looser fitting around the waist to help with air circulation. I just dunked the linen in a pail of hot water to let it shrink overnight.

There appears to be a meetup of sorts brewing for this Saturday.
bloke1
post Apr 3 2010, 12:20 PM

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I dig the buttoning config of this waistcoat.
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


Do they have a special name for that?

This post has been edited by bloke1: Apr 3 2010, 12:22 PM
kotmj
post Apr 3 2010, 02:30 PM

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QUOTE(bloke1 @ Apr 3 2010, 12:20 PM)
I dig the buttoning config of this waistcoat.
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


Do they have a special name for that?
*
It's called the Button & Cloth Manufacturers' waistcoat.

So I picked up some items from ALT and deflowered silencer's jacket before he even laid eyes on it. AL showed me a lining sample that was the sheerest I've ever seen, even more sheer than haboutai but looks strong. Definitely cooler than ermazine. It says "60% Bemberg/Cupro 40% viscose" and is supplied by something Lanifico.

I also went to the shoe fair in PWTC and saw Grandpa Jimmy indulging himself in his huge ego.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Apr 3 2010, 02:56 PM
alfredfx
post Apr 3 2010, 06:49 PM

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i am new and thinking to get a tailor made suit.
Could anyone recommend a sifu or shop?

with 2 pants , french cuff ... etc ... how much do you think i shld set a side
U+FFFD
post Apr 3 2010, 07:37 PM


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QUOTE(kotmj @ Apr 3 2010, 02:30 PM)
by something Lanificio.
Typo error corrected. tongue.gif
kotmj
post Apr 3 2010, 08:19 PM

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QUOTE(alfredfx @ Apr 3 2010, 06:49 PM)
i am new and thinking to get a tailor made suit.
Could anyone recommend a sifu or shop?

with 2 pants , french cuff ... etc ... how much do you think i shld set a side
*
I thought I had eradicated people like you with this thread

http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1351948


This post has been edited by kotmj: Apr 4 2010, 06:53 PM
UltraConductor_41
post Apr 5 2010, 01:06 PM

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i have a question here about "gorge" and "open quarter"~
Is it mean that A is gorge, B is the size of the "open quarter" based on the picture?
**Jind86, sorry for borrowing your picture~~ please let me know if you wish me to use another.
user posted image

A high gorge, mean the V is more smaller?

This post has been edited by UltraConductor_41: Apr 5 2010, 01:07 PM
kotmj
post Apr 5 2010, 01:20 PM

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B is davids pussi

This post has been edited by kotmj: Apr 5 2010, 01:21 PM
UltraConductor_41
post Apr 5 2010, 01:23 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Apr 5 2010, 01:20 PM)
B is davids pussi
*
so...open quarter means..?
kotmj
post Apr 5 2010, 01:27 PM

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i'll let david answer. im munching on my lunch now
TSjind86
post Apr 5 2010, 02:05 PM

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to put it simply:

the gorge is the area where the collar and the lapel meet..

yes, an open quarter refers to the high degree of spread between the two front bottoms.. as opposed to closed quarters which refer to little (or no) spread..

example of closed quarters:

user posted image
UltraConductor_41
post Apr 5 2010, 02:22 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Apr 5 2010, 01:27 PM)
i'll let david answer. im munching on my lunch now
*
ok~enjoy~ smile.gif

QUOTE(jind86 @ Apr 5 2010, 02:05 PM)
to put it simply:

the gorge is the area where the collar and the lapel meet..

yes, an open quarter refers to the high degree of spread between the two front bottoms.. as opposed to closed quarters which refer to little (or no) spread..

example of closed quarters:

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

*
icic~~ok ...i get what you mean~~ really thanks for the help~ biggrin.gif cos im actually going to custom made my first suit in my life... after read thru the previous hundred page and google...still cant get a confirm meaning of the gorge and open quarter. But now i clear my doubt~ thanks for the help again~ notworthy.gif
kotmj
post Apr 5 2010, 02:30 PM

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The gorge is the little notch on the lapel. It can be high up on the shoulder or low on the chest. The former is in vogue.

A is not the gorge. It is influenced by the buttoning point.


Added on April 5, 2010, 2:32 pm
QUOTE(UltraConductor_41 @ Apr 5 2010, 02:22 PM)
ok~enjoy~ smile.gif
icic~~ok ...i get what you mean~~ really thanks for the help~ biggrin.gif  cos im actually going to custom made my first suit in my life... after read thru the previous hundred page and google...still cant get a confirm meaning of the gorge and open quarter. But now i clear my doubt~ thanks for the help again~ notworthy.gif
*
which tailor will you be using?

This post has been edited by kotmj: Apr 5 2010, 02:32 PM
UltraConductor_41
post Apr 5 2010, 02:42 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Apr 5 2010, 02:30 PM)
The gorge is the little notch on the lapel. It can be high up on the shoulder or low on the chest. The former is in vogue.

A is not the gorge. It is influenced by the buttoning point.


Added on April 5, 2010, 2:32 pm
which tailor will you be using?
*
icic~~ok~ understood...because in internet..there is some people define gorge as the V shape opening in front of the chest..thats why i get real confuse~ rclxub.gif

erm...not a famous 1 like you all does as i have some budget constraint. So i go for Kinslager... since no one here ever went there.. then i will be the guinea pig~~ i saw they have 2k fans in their facebook..so..hamtam la..LOL~ biggrin.gif will give feedback when i get mine.. tongue.gif
kotmj
post Apr 5 2010, 03:50 PM

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Yes, please do try out Kinslager and post pics.


Added on April 5, 2010, 6:39 pmI've just bought a bit of Mystery Lining which I intend to use for my Mystery Linen Jacket to be made up by MBT3. I wonder if it will be as breathable as ermazine. Kinda expensive though.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Apr 5 2010, 06:39 PM
specopsmarines
post Apr 5 2010, 11:58 PM

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Can we know the price of kid mohair cloth 3.5 meters?
kotmj
post Apr 6 2010, 12:19 AM

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QUOTE(specopsmarines @ Apr 5 2010, 11:58 PM)
Can we know the price of kid mohair cloth 3.5 meters?
*
http://stores.ebay.com/BRITISH-FABRICS_MOH...634Q2ec0Q2em322

In other news, a nice trade magazine:
http://www.savilerow-style.com/archives.htm

This post has been edited by kotmj: Apr 6 2010, 01:46 AM
kotmj
post Apr 6 2010, 10:29 PM

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The first fitting for my linen jacket with MBT3 is this Saturday.
silencer
post Apr 7 2010, 03:06 AM

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The pic were taken in a hurry, just for reference for ALT suit.....kid mohair cloth with full lining emerzine and horn buttons.....

Attached Image
Attached Image
Attached Image


irmond
post Apr 7 2010, 06:12 AM

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I heard there's alot of type of suit..
there's the UK version, US version and 1 more I forgotten..can anyone explain to me what's the different?? hmm.gif

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