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 The Suiting Thread V1, Suit/Tuxedo/Sportcoat/Blazer

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TSjind86
post Jan 27 2009, 01:59 AM

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QUOTE(seesawseen2k @ Jan 27 2009, 12:30 AM)
Hi

Planning to taylor make a suit.
Please share some contacts.
I have tried Ray's Taylor in 2nd floor of Sungei Wang.
RM650 for a set of beginner suit, while he recommend rm9xx for medium range suit (coat + pant + formal shirt)
*
hi there,

why don't u post up your a picture of you in your suit from Ray's Tailor and let us take a look.. =)
TSjind86
post Jan 27 2009, 01:54 PM

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seesawseen2k - custom made suit for RM650? thats cheap.. im guessing polyester material?
TSjind86
post Feb 3 2009, 05:48 PM

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for a moment i thought that was actually you.. lol.. plenty of brands actually make this kind of jacket.. try zara, burberry, topman, dkny, emporio armani..
TSjind86
post Feb 5 2009, 02:37 AM

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topman is kinda seasonal so depends on your luck =) you may be able to find something like that in zara as well.. as mentioned, many high-end stores like in KLCC actually may carry them.. u gotta go around and look bro.. lol..
TSjind86
post Feb 5 2009, 07:27 PM

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QUOTE(sarah_9 @ Feb 5 2009, 05:47 PM)
Hello,
Some big brands only cares for their brands , it is better to rely on your local stores or tailors forcustom made suits  or shirt, at least they  wont show you their brand power and would care for your advice and will take care of your need.
Regards,
sarah_9
*
well firstly thats not even a malaysian page.. how do u consider that as a "local tailor store".. no.2, they are purchased online, clothing especially suits need very delicate detailing, therefore i wouldn't recommend purchasing a "custom suit" online..


QUOTE(~Battousai~ @ Feb 5 2009, 06:22 PM)
notched lapel, centre-back vent
Single chest  welt pocket, flap welt pockets at the jacket waist.
Flat-front pants with a lower rise, angled front pockets and buttoned back welts
Surgeon's cuffs!!!
interested in suits. just a college student but would like to learn more. can u explain to me all the parts what is it tongue.gif
*
there are two main lapel designs for a suit..

the first is a notch lapel:

user posted image

this is a peak:

user posted image

there are three types of designs - ventless, single (centre) vent, and double (side) vents.. vents are made for easier movement..

here's a single vent, where there is a slit in the middle:

user posted image

here's a double, there are two slits on the sides:

user posted image

flat front well.. well it means that the pants are non-pleated.. pleated are the ones with the additional folds at the thigh area of the pants.. flat front does not have them and are just, well flat..

pleated:

user posted image

surgeon's cuffs are basically the functional/working buttons on the cuff of the suit.. you would notice most off-the-rack suits would not have this feature.. the button holes are actually sealed and you would not able to unbutton them.. surgeon cuffs are the symbol of a true custom made suit..

user posted image

This post has been edited by jind86: Feb 5 2009, 07:30 PM
TSjind86
post Feb 6 2009, 03:57 PM

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silvery grey? eik.. its actually a charcoal grey..
TSjind86
post Feb 7 2009, 02:36 PM

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QUOTE(calvinloke @ Feb 6 2009, 07:57 PM)
Man, charcoal is ALOOOTT darker. The color would be almost black. But black would drown out all the colors doh.gif
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it is indeed charcoal but you wont be able to tell from the pictures.. the color is much different in real life.. there are few types of charcoals depending on what the brand calls them.. there's of course the one which is nearly black, and the ones which are not so..

a quick search i did on google under "charcoal suits": http://www.mensusa.com/mens_charcoal_gray_...y_suits_usa.htm



This post has been edited by jind86: Feb 7 2009, 02:46 PM
TSjind86
post Feb 10 2009, 01:06 PM

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QUOTE(yetieater @ Feb 10 2009, 11:52 AM)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


I don't know which one to keep!
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i don't get what you mean? if you're trying to flash your brands, trust me it doesn't work here..
TSjind86
post Feb 10 2009, 08:31 PM

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in a professional standard, your jacket is a little short.. however i would not bother altering any, the cuff shown of the shirt is alright, it does not appear too much.. your shirt is at the right length anyway..

This post has been edited by jind86: Feb 10 2009, 08:42 PM
TSjind86
post Feb 10 2009, 09:14 PM

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i understand how u feel about the 1" being too much, in actual fact 1" is regarded too much of cuff to show, however your overall appearance looks alright, it does not appear too much judging by from the whole outcome.. i myself am having the same problem, may post up pix soon as well to see what you guys think about the "overall look" concerning the display of my shirt cuff..
TSjind86
post Feb 10 2009, 10:57 PM

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QUOTE(yetieater @ Feb 10 2009, 10:46 PM)
There's an 8 or 9 inch drop from my chest to my waist.  Is that normal?
*
take a picture of you in the suit and we'll see..

This post has been edited by jind86: Feb 10 2009, 11:01 PM
TSjind86
post Feb 10 2009, 11:02 PM

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anyways guys i've sent my lord's suit back to get the shoulder pads trimmed a little and gotten the pants shortened a bit as well.. i'll probably post up pictures of it later..

oh btw calvinloke, could u post up pictures of your WWChan suit and Jantzen shirt, would like to take a look..
TSjind86
post Feb 11 2009, 09:13 AM

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QUOTE(yetieater @ Feb 11 2009, 05:37 AM)
I'm talking measurements because you seem to have some experience with tailored clothing.  Both suits are 38S with waist size 32" pants, a 6" drop.

Flizzardo, both suits cost $800 USD pre sales tax
*
any experienced person will tell you that you can not judge a suit by just looking at it, it has to be worn.. there's no point flashing your brand or stating your suit specification, no one is able to tell from that..
TSjind86
post Feb 17 2009, 06:43 PM

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QUOTE(zariqcools @ Feb 17 2009, 03:44 PM)
how do we actually between the men suit and woman suit?
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differentiate you mean? er its kind of like how u differentiate men's and women's polo-t, the cutting is different, the length of the jacket is different..
TSjind86
post Feb 17 2009, 07:13 PM

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female suit jackets are usually shorter than men's, their also curvier, more trim at the waist and less padding..

here first picture here is a double breasted female suit:

user posted image

here's a single breasted:

user posted image
TSjind86
post Feb 17 2009, 11:38 PM

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QUOTE(gzavincent @ Feb 17 2009, 11:34 PM)
Is thr actually teenage wearing blazer walk around on the street???
I have a G2000 blazer...Wanna wear it to KL...But once think of the weather din wear it...
*
teenage, hardly.. youth and men - yes..
TSjind86
post Feb 18 2009, 04:49 PM

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QUOTE(netmatrix @ Feb 18 2009, 09:06 AM)
Look here for a little insight. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Suit_(clothing)

But if you ask me, it varies from designer to designer. Have you seen Edmunser's suits before? They are located in KLCC. Edmunser is good at making womens professional suits. The reason why i talk about this shop is because Edmunser seems to be the strange cohesion of womens and mens suit. Their mens suit looks like a womens suit simply because of the fabric. They don't use a lot of hard self standing fabrics. most of them are soft, which works in womens suits.

Besides the obvious trimming of the waist, womens suits usually have only 1 button closure and different fancy buttons style. They may not necessarily be short. The lower coat usually is flared to accomodate bigger hips or sexier curves! The panneling for the coats are different. Usually a single panel on the back as to a 2 piece for mens. The back collar lapels are usually not stiffened with felt like material. The coat  themselves are not basted so they are flexible in the chest area. I should know, as i have took apart a few womens suit owned by my relatives compared to a 1970's suit jacket that was heading to the trash can last time.
*
panel meaning?
TSjind86
post Feb 18 2009, 05:22 PM

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QUOTE(FusioneX� @ Feb 18 2009, 05:09 PM)
The back of the coat doesn't have a seam running through it the middle. Two panels is two sections of fabric pattern joined together at the back. Victorian coats that I own normally has four panels, staying true to antique tailoring which really tests the skills of a tailor.  smile.gif
*
if you are able, take a picture of the coat with four panels and post up some pix here.. would appreciate it =)
TSjind86
post Feb 18 2009, 05:36 PM

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as mentioned earlier i was also concerned bout the amount of shirt cuff shown..

here's my sport jacket by Melinda Looi, a Malaysian designer together with my Topman shirt which displays the most cuff..

what do you guys think bout the overall look concerning the shirt cuff?

user posted image
TSjind86
post Feb 18 2009, 06:40 PM

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QUOTE(zariqcools @ Feb 18 2009, 06:37 PM)
well do you like ur jacket to be really fit?like Billie joe Armstrong?
*
er well i dont exactly know how billie joe armstrong wears his jackets, but i dont want it to be REALLY fitting, of course there must be some some space between the body and the jacket, why?

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