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 The Suiting Thread V1, Suit/Tuxedo/Sportcoat/Blazer

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TSjind86
post Nov 12 2009, 12:11 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Nov 11 2009, 08:46 PM)
You needn't even look it up. You can infer its function in the lapel from it's function elsewhere.

BTW is a Lord's suit half-canvassed?


Added on November 11, 2009, 8:53 pmAlso, are the lapels padded in a Lord's suit? You can check by looking for many small dimples in the cloth on the underside of the lapel.


Added on November 11, 2009, 8:55 pmAlso, are the buttonholes hand-sewn? You can check by looking at the backside of the buttonhole. See if the stitching is neat or ugly.
*
mine's fused..

i'll get back to you on the lapel padding and hand sewn buttonholes..
poyol
post Nov 12 2009, 03:24 PM

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anyone know where I can get a long coat?
calvinloke
post Nov 12 2009, 07:07 PM

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QUOTE(jind86 @ Nov 12 2009, 12:11 PM)
mine's fused..

i'll get back to you on the lapel padding and hand sewn buttonholes..
*
Eh?? I always thought yours is at least half canvassed for the premium price.
kotmj
post Nov 12 2009, 07:26 PM

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I've put together the spec for my Silvercross kid mohair suit:

Configuration
Two button
Side vent
High notch
Form fitting
Pronounced waist suppression
Pronounced skirt flare
No pleats on pants, slanted pockets, no back pockets, no seam on pockets, reinforced on back hem
Sloping shoulders
Hacking pockets
Tone-on-tone lining

Difference over previous suit

Lower buttoning stance than previous
More arm mobility
Wider lapels than previous
Roomier at the elbow
Larger sleevehead in an even smaller armhole
Open quarters
Real working cuffs
Finer and silkier thread for buttonholes
Have the selvedge visible somewhere


Added on November 12, 2009, 7:36 pm
QUOTE(jind86 @ Nov 12 2009, 12:11 PM)
mine's fused..

i'll get back to you on the lapel padding and hand sewn buttonholes..
*
Please use this guide to grade your Lord's suit.

user posted image

This post has been edited by kotmj: Nov 12 2009, 07:36 PM
TSjind86
post Nov 12 2009, 08:04 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Nov 11 2009, 08:46 PM)
You needn't even look it up. You can infer its function in the lapel from it's function elsewhere.

BTW is a Lord's suit half-canvassed?


Added on November 11, 2009, 8:53 pmAlso, are the lapels padded in a Lord's suit? You can check by looking for many small dimples in the cloth on the underside of the lapel.


Added on November 11, 2009, 8:55 pmAlso, are the buttonholes hand-sewn? You can check by looking at the backside of the buttonhole. See if the stitching is neat or ugly.
*
i dont see any "dimples" on the lapel.. will take a picture soon.. are padded lapels considered "better"?

well if i would say, the stitching of the buttonhole doesn't look neat.. will get a picture of that too for you guys to see..

btw where u getting your next suit from?
QUOTE(calvinloke @ Nov 12 2009, 07:07 PM)
Eh?? I always thought yours is at least half canvassed for the premium price.
*
well i think the price is pretty normal right? like they charge RM1000 for their service, for instance ah loke charged RM650 right? but that was without buttons, lining, etc? mine was included.. i guess brands like lord's and bespoked are a little more well known so they charge a higher price..

This post has been edited by jind86: Nov 12 2009, 08:12 PM
kotmj
post Nov 13 2009, 12:49 AM

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I am still looking for my next tailor. I would be very happy to use Ah Loke again, but am exploring the possibility of using someone else who can give me old-world quality. I have yet to find that someone, but will search for him this weekend.


Added on November 13, 2009, 1:05 amBTW I'm also interested in the answers to the same questions regarding your brother's suit from the tailor in The Gardens. I forgot the name.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Nov 13 2009, 01:05 AM
TSjind86
post Nov 13 2009, 02:28 AM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Nov 13 2009, 12:49 AM)
I am still looking for my next tailor. I would be very happy to use Ah Loke again, but am exploring the possibility of using someone else who can give me old-world quality. I have yet to find that someone, but will search for him this weekend.


Added on November 13, 2009, 1:05 amBTW I'm also interested in the answers to the same questions regarding your brother's suit from the tailor in The Gardens. I forgot the name.
*
granoff..

so where do i find this "dimple"? inside the suit jacket where the lining is or just the back of the lapel?
kotmj
post Nov 13 2009, 07:35 PM

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Jind86, I use language with great precision. Please read my description again.
shirley_andy
post Nov 13 2009, 07:52 PM

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Hi, didnt wanna open a new thread to ask this so I'll just ask it here..

Any idea where got sell Casual buttoned shirt but with sleeve until the elbow?

Normal casual formal clothes sold are either short sleeve or long sleeve, I'm finding one that have sleeve a couple inches longer than the short sleeve.

Please don't suggest me to buy bigger size of the short sleeve..

This post has been edited by shirley_andy: Nov 13 2009, 07:53 PM
kotmj
post Nov 13 2009, 07:58 PM

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Buy a long sleeve shirt and have the sleeve cut and hemmed where you want it.

Sigh.
shirley_andy
post Nov 13 2009, 08:02 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Nov 13 2009, 07:58 PM)
Buy a long sleeve shirt and have the sleeve cut and hemmed where you want it.

Sigh.
*
Thanks but I'm not good at sewing, how much is it approx to ask people do it?
kotmj
post Nov 13 2009, 08:03 PM

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rule of thumb is 200X the price of the shirt. labour is expensive.
shirley_andy
post Nov 13 2009, 08:04 PM

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So there isn't any shop around that have this kind of Shirt?
calvinloke
post Nov 13 2009, 08:49 PM

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QUOTE(shirley_andy @ Nov 13 2009, 07:52 PM)
Hi, didnt wanna open a new thread to ask this so I'll just ask it here..

Any idea where got sell Casual buttoned shirt but with sleeve until the elbow?

Normal casual formal clothes sold are either short sleeve or long sleeve, I'm finding one that have sleeve a couple inches longer than the short sleeve.

Please don't suggest me to buy bigger size of the short sleeve..
*
This is not the place for women's apparel.
shirley_andy
post Nov 13 2009, 09:04 PM

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QUOTE(calvinloke @ Nov 13 2009, 08:49 PM)
This is not the place for women's apparel.
*
I'm talking about men clothing
calvinloke
post Nov 13 2009, 09:10 PM

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Walk in to Sub. They might have plenty of those. But real men must never wear them. Never.
kotmj
post Nov 13 2009, 09:11 PM

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Calvin do you happen to know how much more fabric for a DB compared to SB?


Added on November 13, 2009, 9:12 pmFantasizing about having a DB made in this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/CASHMERE-WOOL-WORSTED-...=item518c2ac502


Added on November 13, 2009, 9:14 pmOr maybe realistically settle for this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/100-ALL-WOOL-WORSTED-S...=item45ec58f707

This post has been edited by kotmj: Nov 13 2009, 09:14 PM
calvinloke
post Nov 13 2009, 09:22 PM

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I'm not so sure about this. As a rule of thumb 2.5 meters is fine for any jacket. IMO, the overlapping flap wouldn't consume much of a fabric. Or just get the whole nine yards.

I too had orgasms on navy double breasted blazers with white MOP buttons as of recent.

This post has been edited by calvinloke: Nov 13 2009, 09:24 PM
shirley_andy
post Nov 13 2009, 09:23 PM

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QUOTE(calvinloke @ Nov 13 2009, 09:10 PM)
Walk in to Sub. They might have plenty of those. But real men must never wear them. Never.
*
May I know why?
kotmj
post Nov 13 2009, 09:31 PM

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QUOTE(calvinloke @ Nov 13 2009, 09:22 PM)
I'm not so sure about this. As a rule of thumb 2.5 meters is fine for any jacket. IMO, the overlapping flap wouldn't consume much of a fabric. Or just get the whole nine yards.

I too had orgasms on navy double breasted blazers with white MOP buttons as of recent.
*
I am fascinated by this look.


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