hallo.. all sifoo sifoo.. ^^ newbie here.. so nice got forum here can discuss 1..
i wanna ask a question... my lmst ar, when ON aircon, rpm at 1k, but then after driving a while, when car goes neutral(either traffic light or just fully pressed da clucth) why it stuck at 1.5k donwan go down 1, and everytime exactly at 1.5k rpm... unless OFF and ON da aircon, then back to 1k rpm but when OFF aircon, no problem leh...

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Added on January 5, 2009, 7:59 pmbout da power window switch, not to mention mi oso hv problem with it, onli with driver side, dono why.. long time ago i used to open da switch n sand da steel plate for better connection, but problem comes back after few weeks, so sien 1... then i open da switch and sand off da black thingy again, but then i solder a thin layer of "soldering iron" onto it, i solder both da metal plate and da little "nail like thingy" tat touch the steel plate when u pressed da button.... till now no more problem owez connect on 1st push..

This post has been edited by noobbie carbber: Jan 5 2009, 07:59 PM

wah... max is 1.5k rpm, meaning mine running at max suction all da time.. .. cham lor... then sure my ficd crazy jor.. btw, isnt max suction means no leak? so sad.... is there anyway to adjust it? or kong oledi?..

Ooo.. thx for explaining, sifoo since vacuum leaking, at the moment ac compressor kick in, the "leaking vacuum" is onli strong enough to suck the "idc actuator" to 1k rpm position instead of 1.5k rpm, then after driving the car, "leaking vacuum" is just barely able to hold up the 1.5k rpm position..

so my "idc actuator" was actually set to 1.5k rpm from the previous %@#%^ owner to cover up the insufficient vacuum strength when ON aircon during idling which could bring up violent shaking if 1k rpm drop to 500 rpm... i gonna try look for leaks..

okok, i will try.. sifoo cat... if FICD broken hw much to replace ar?...
haha, tat ufo thing damn hot 1... i touched it last time... coz relli funny got ufo under my hood..

i just checked my vacuum tubes, 1 from back of engine to ficd, another from ficd to idc. doesnt feel any leaking suction when i run my finger all over them... headache... i did try pushing the idc screw(for adjusting idling) down, i push a bit hard(harder than tarik acceretor lines), and the idc actuator actually can go down lower.. revving my engine at exactly 1.5k rpm.. sure got leak lor.. ... headache.. sifoo cat, izzit normal if we cant push the idc actuator screw lower if everything was running fine?

hallo all..^^ i just got my 1.5k rpm aircon idling problem fixed ... i adjust da idc to lower idling to around 1k and i restart aircon, it was so weird, no shaking, and it goes 1k steadily, i rev it till 2k and let go, it drop to 1k too, it doesnt stuck at 1.5k anymore :does it means no vacuum leak???? but hw come last time it it didnt hit 1.5k rpm straight.. leak? no leak? leak?
makes mi wonder...... maybe is da stock vacuum doesnt hv the power to hit da engine to 1.5k by its own? time to mod in my home vacuum cleaner liao hahaha... anyway, problem solves.. so happy..

lets see...... note tat the srew is under the stock air filter, so just use a playar to adjust lorh.. by the way, the blue arrow i pointed out, is aircon pipe o wad?... its cold enough to drip water.. normal mah sifoo sifoo?


edit: just now cold start, straight ON aircon relli got shaking.. rpm at around 800.. hv to wait engine warmer baru can achieve 1k rpm.. izzit normal for cold start?...

This post has been edited by noobbie carbber: Jan 9 2009, 06:26 PM

sory sory, sifoo said is ILC.. wah.. now mi think got leak again liao lorh.. the sterring was shaking onli when aircon ON.. =.=".. i think just now was "not so cold start", haha... the car is just a little low on rpm, can feel da autochoke nvr kick in 1... do any1 hv dis kind of experiences, i mean the "not so cold start"?

This post has been edited by noobbie carbber: Jan 9 2009, 07:35 PM

when i park under the sun, sometime i start my car straight oledi 2 bar wor...

confirm at dis morning cold start, my car not shaking, even i start with aircon ON.. everything seems normal..
it normally at 3 bar when car is warmed up.. i dono is water temp o wad temp la, but for sure is not fuel bar... sometime onli la, under the hot sun.... sometime not very hot so need a little time to get 2, 3 bar.. but i think my autochoke nvr come in other than morning or night.. in the afternoon, i owez apply a very slight right leg pressure to get it started at 1st try... if not, 1st try owez failed.. but in morning, 1st try will owez get the car started.. izzit normal for carb car?.. i see some other efi cars, everytime will start at 1st kick, nvr see efi cars cant start at 1st kick 1.. why ar?... haha

Ooo... so dis explained why my lmst extrator shield got a hole pointed up(but no tube), make mi cant put heat shield... haha. and in the afternoon, i need to apply a very slight right leg pressure to get it started at 1st try is normal?.. bcoz got no fuel pump like efi cars..

okok thx cat..^^ looks like my car problems nvr end... haha.. just now my driver side power window went up a little choking.. but going down smooth.. yesterday still fine 1.. =.="

fuel evaporated away... hahaha... my precious fuel go to heaven without my permission...

wads da relay used for?... .. can diy ma?

This post has been edited by noobbie carbber: Jan 11 2009, 12:49 AM

12.5 vs 13.2... tats a good number... meaning extra 30km if full tank compare to last time?... fuel eco .. mind post a pic on hw ur current muffler look like?.. i m interested on dis man...

65% nid "nescafe 3 in 1" lorh i think haha.. btw, ur tinting is at window ? windscreen?.. if front tint 65%, relli need "nescafe ultra 9"...

hallo all.. i hv a small problem o.. my rear buzzer stopped working adi.. no sound at all.. i cant even find where the buzzer is located..

wah the crack so evenly spread to all area, yet still standing up...

i din noe security tint so strong 1 geh... izzit strong till the thief hit it so hard that he cant break it?.. window still can wind down and up ma?