i replaced the stock JNC 470 uF to panasonic FM 470uF 25V...

not much improvement sounds to me...

anyone tried expensive boutique input caps yet? (Mundorf...Wonder Cap, Solen, Auri?)

i do not have volume pot now...since most of the time i control it via the soundcard level.

is it a must to have a physical volume pot for the t amp?

im going to order a bunch of 0.1uF 5% film cap to replace the SMDs

either farnell or RS...

now the option is... to replace it with SMD or typical film ones

i would choose SMD components at the same value and grade with the replacement ones, although is much cheaper, but the soldering skill required for soldering SMD is real KUNG FU...

or maybe in the end i need to get a professional soldering station

using my spare t-amp to practice soldering out SMD, so far so good it takes my clumsy hand 10 sec average to remove each 20K smd resistor...

however to solder in new ones..... might not be that smooth

i was thinking if can use 0.1% metal film resistors? wouldn't it be better?

This post has been edited by Monkey King: Nov 29 2008, 11:25 AM

well i cant really tell how much it improves since i never tried the 1% yet... anyway...most 1% are quite cheap... 1/4W type would be sufficient eh? hehe

now i have an excuse to use my another t-amp to replace my car amp...

i furbared the car amp when trying to change the op amps... damn 2 layer PCB... too lazy to figure out where is the problem now..declare RIP...

well my question is, direct connect V+ to battery positive (with a fuse of course) and GND directly to ' - ' post of battery.

would this t-amp drain away the battery juice over time via such connection? since the board dosent have place for me to connect REM+

plan to use it to drive dual 6 x 9 at rear

This post has been edited by Monkey King: Nov 29 2008, 12:32 PM

well yeah, now i guess i would use a switch for it till i can find a relay circuit for it....

yo bro, thanks for the reply... i doubt any aeroplane sound would occur as long as you have proper grounding back to battery ' - ' terminal.

well, if im not mistaken, the battery voltage would fluctuate due to inconsistent load? (A/C, headlights , etc...) do we need to construct a voltage regulator for it? say LM7812 equivalent..?

if the t amp project in car is successful, might get another 2 units to power up the components. all using Pre-out, ditch the build in amp of HU. Forget about spending few hundred bucks on fancy car amps..

mind share the relay circuit? coz its kinda hard for me to goggle for right one..

I tried swap the T amp power supply from the Teletron 12V 3A unregulated to Generic PC PSU (i suppose this is also another SMPS as well) since i heard there is a lot of good response using SMPS.

part of the reason also i'm worried that constant 16V supply (measured with DMM) from the teletron might kill the T amp someday.

however, much to my surprise, the t amp DOES NOT LIKE PC PSU.

when i switch on, there is 'noise' yes noise like you heard when your radio reception is bad.. even w/o playing any songs..

quicky disconnect it, tried with few other PSU like Enlight, Acbel... same result...

good morning bro jazzy...

i just did some minor mod to my teletron unregulated..

and well the measured 16V is obtained when the t amp is connected to the supply, with music playing..


oh about the mod...

i paralleled one of this cap at the output of the power supply, to my delight, there is much improvement in term of sonics.

more depth, warm vocal...


i may plan to have 3 t-amps with different mod level (and a comparison of course)

1: high end, putting the best replacement component for the amp, with primary objective of maximizing the SQ. (Boutique input caps 2-3% tol, tighther tolerance components, replace almost all the components on board, left out only the TA2024 itself) of course the parts are the best that i can possibly afford.

2. Mid range: the one i have now ... Vishay MKT1813 input, SMD caps replacement with polyester caps (i've ordered 50 pcs of KEMET 0.1uF polyester 5% from farnell....dirt cheap, 1% Metal Film resistors. i have lots of 104 Mylar caps to replace..

3. Base Line: almost stock, maybe just remove the polarized 1uF or replace with anything i can salvage.


all 3 will feed by same power supply, driving same speakers

what do you think

This post has been edited by Monkey King: Nov 30 2008, 08:22 AM

aha yeah actually i'm planning to get few more t amps, for car, and maybe a good idea for father's day present too... (ready built of course)

since tripath no longer produce any of these chip, i do worrythis t amp might extinct like black gates caps someday...

nice video, downloaded it...!

Y.C. hows the improvement by changing all to discreet components (and the cost too) , im planning to do the same like you..

i burned one of my board as well while trying to connect it to car battery.

bloody burn chip smells like buncho watercolour