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DIY T-Amp User V2, TA2020 AIR CORES!, ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

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TSxtorm
post Nov 24 2008, 07:23 PM, updated 13y ago

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new toy in town, much better sounding rclxms.gif

look at these sexy TA2020
those offset switch are a breeze to tweak as they are really fine, get 0mV easily
user posted image
air cores baby!!!, notice the output relay so u get no pops
user posted image
epcos input caps!!!
user posted image

how abt the favorite TA2024
way better quality
user posted image
no cheap out put core here
user posted image
offset switch for that 0mV
user posted image

the thread with build info
http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/763968

same warning..... flex.gif
**very important that you guys dont mess up +VE and -VE terminal on the power supply, it will burn the chip!**

new warning
DO NOT PARALLEL 2 t-amp output into 1 speaker, it will not double the wattage, instead you will at the end get no power at all!! MEANING BURN CHIP!!

t-amp? what izit?
its a type of amp produce by tripath, basically a much refine class-d amp.
there is ta2020, ta2024, ta2022, the 1 i brought in is ta2024, bang per buck you cant beat it
some good reading abt the ta2024
sonic impact T-amp which make this chip really famous!
http://www.tnt-audio.com/ampli/t-amp_e.html
http://www.6moons.com/audioreviews/sonicimpact/t.html
http://forum.ecoustics.com/bbs/messages/1/193312.html

Aattached bellow is the evaluation board for TA-2024

will add details and Q&A soon.

This post has been edited by xtorm: Apr 6 2011, 10:12 PM


Attached File(s)
Attached File  ta2024evaluation_1_.pdf ( 631.65k ) Number of downloads: 487
TSxtorm
post Nov 24 2008, 07:24 PM

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POWER SUPPLY

the best bang per buck power supply is Meanwell 12v 4.2A which are selling for rm55 ( yea yea as expensive as the t-amp tongue.gif ), you will only find 1 shop in jalan pasar selling this price, shop name Wize Intelligence beside Nixie.
hmm they got a website, www.wize-intelligence.com.my which is not working anymore, it was last time i check
user posted image

so how good izit? this is a brief review form our sifu biggrin.gif
QUOTE
Y.C.
it sounded so much better than my other SMPS (which is a laptop adapter type)– less flat-sounding and less tiring over long period of listening with ample of reserves when demanded upon


QUOTE
Jazzy939
I agree, as if the SMPS and the T-Amp was meant for each other!


other option will be SLA-battery, but some say it is not as exciting using SMPS, no review yet from our club smile.gif

spec and model of the mention smps are attached belLow, thanks to Y.C. for the link on previous thread.

what are SMPS?
please read here for those who like to read and understand how stuff work
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Switched-mode_power_supply

This post has been edited by xtorm: Dec 2 2008, 09:43 PM


Attached File(s)
Attached File  s_50_spec_1_.pdf ( 413.72k ) Number of downloads: 104
TSxtorm
post Nov 24 2008, 07:24 PM

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the modding guide, sorry if the write up is not good enough, i tried tongue.gif Attached at the end of this post (#2) are the guide for modding in pdf by our sifu jazzy939

BEGINER STAGE
-the easiest modding and makes the most difference will be the input capacitors, those thing covered in black.
get the best capacitor you can afford here, higher value will enhance the bass and roll off the highs, 2.2uf and 3.3uf are recomended here, non polarize.

-change the supply capacitor, those 2 small caps in the middle just beside ta2024 chip, higher value will enhance the charity and bass, low esr caps are recomended here, panasonic FM seems to fit this job well, 3300uf 16v will be enough, change both of them ofcause...
here a review from 1 of the guru here on power supply cap notworthy.gif

QUOTE(Y.C. @ Sep 28 2008, 04:12 PM)
I had the opportunity to compare my own T-amp against my colleague’s T-amp last night when we were troubleshooting some buzzing sound together.

As mentioned previously, I have changed the 4 stocked caps of my T-amp to Vishay/ERO MKT 1813 2.2uF 63V polycarbonates and Panasonic 1000uF 16V electrolytics whereas my colleague has only changed the input caps to the same Vishay/ERO MKT 1813 caps. My T-amp is with a 24-steps 50K ohm Dale resistors attenuator whereas his an Alpha 50K ohm carbon potentiometer. PSU used is a 12VDC 2.5A SMPS, source a Sansui CD-X310 and transducers Q Acoustics 1010.

I would report the difference in sound of our T-amps described above as very substantial and prefer the unit with Panasonic low ESR PSU caps. The overall tonal balance and scale of music is both more balanced and larger. The low frequencies have more weight and this adds to the foundation of music making. I would not describe sound as dry-sounding but contrary to this, we thought both T-amps sounded moist enough but we arrived at the conclusion that the stocked PSU caps must be replaced so as to attain a more balanced tonal back and a weighty foundation to low frequencies. There is no pop/thud sound to both our T-amps.

*
user posted image

these mod will probably be enough for some, but i bet most will not stop here as once you start modding it you dont wanto stop, the diferences are just amazing thumbup.gif


ADVANCE
-input resistor and gain resistor, smd component are never known for sounding good, the input resistor on the board are probably 5% tolerance, i measure 19.6xk to 19.8xk on them, changing to 1% metal film or better will improve the sound, espcially imaging.

-as you can see some biascap and others being change as well in the picture, not sure how much they effect the sound, jazzy939 did this mod in 1 shot and are quite surprise by it

-bypass cap for power supply, just beside the power supply cap, c6 and c7. good power supply make a noticeably difference in t-amp

-soldering copper wire directly from 12v terminal to chip, again, a good power supply is important in any amp, since the original root is quite thin in size, soldering 2 copper wire to the ta2024 pin will let the chip have plenty of power to work with, espcially with bigger panasonic FM in. sorry for the lousy pic, it is solder to pin 25,26,29 and 30

user posted image

-output filter capacitors, c22, c25, c27, c28 (sorry no pictures yet), some say these are as good as changing the input caps, polyester 5% or better are recomended here.

-output filter coil, those 4 black thing, ferite coil gives dynamic and vivid signature to the t-amp, while aircore gives smooth and relax feels to it, up to the listener. other then that shielding the coil will make the amp sounding clean, haven try it tho, but good feedback from those who has done it.

bellow files belong to bro jazzy939, i upload it here for the convenient of others..

This post has been edited by xtorm: Jan 19 2009, 12:49 PM


Attached File(s)
Attached File  TA2024_mods_draft_STAGE1.pdf ( 1.35mb ) Number of downloads: 425
Attached File  TA2024_mods_draft_STAGE2.pdf ( 1.4mb ) Number of downloads: 339
TSxtorm
post Nov 24 2008, 07:25 PM

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Reseve for more updates
wui223
post Nov 24 2008, 07:33 PM

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Seems like im the 1st T-amp user to report here smile.gif
TSxtorm
post Nov 24 2008, 07:35 PM

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haha yea, i bought the smps at the shop mention by jazzy, took some pic gona post it up, also some nice casing at nixie smile.gif


Added on November 24, 2008, 7:36 pmaiks.....should put power supplly and casing stuff before putting in the mod.....hmmm gona edit now smile.gif


Added on November 24, 2008, 8:06 pmarrrrrrrghhhh write a lengthy post then it decided not to load th page and i lost all the writting....

gona continue later sad.gif

This post has been edited by xtorm: Nov 24 2008, 08:06 PM
PcWork
post Nov 24 2008, 08:18 PM

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warning 3 : do not mistakely touch the speaker terminal with AC adapter.
burn the chip within 1 seconds. lol
=P

jazzy939
post Nov 24 2008, 09:00 PM

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Finally! Version 2! thumbup.gif TQ xtorm wink.gif

No major T-Amp works on my side but I have been playing around with buffer preamps.. made 2 last weekend! wink.gif

I finally hit the sweet note on my T-Amp. Buffer pre-amp compliments the T-Amp very nicely. wink.gif
TSxtorm
post Nov 25 2008, 10:27 AM

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will update some other sutff later tonight smile.gif
wui223
post Nov 25 2008, 10:51 AM

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jazzy: post ur speakers relay circuit here can ah? i might need it.
jazzy939
post Nov 25 2008, 01:28 PM

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Wui,
Have a look here!.

QUOTE(wui223 @ Nov 25 2008, 10:51 AM)
jazzy: post ur speakers relay circuit here can ah? i might need it.
*
ijan
post Nov 25 2008, 03:11 PM

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on the NOTE NUMBER 2, i think the T-amp can be made to do bi-amping which i intend to do with my 2x t-amp board..currently waiting for a cheap bookshelve to come by, mcm ada lubang for wharfedale 8 series or pinnacle shelves..haf to wait...
Y.C.
post Nov 25 2008, 04:41 PM

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Ijan, do check out these brand new pairs of Denon SC-M51 2 bookshelf loudspeakers at RM390. Try to negotiate further with them (CMY Electronics) as during the KLIAV 2008 show, their show price is only RM299.

ijan
post Nov 25 2008, 06:17 PM

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Sadly im in Sarawak..

However, a friend is offering a very minty black Wharfedale 8.1 at RM350, i think can nego to RM300. Only used as satellite. It has been replaced by the 9 series wharfedale, but at the price, any comment?

I don't want to thrift to much bookshelves since I am more into headphones, but eventually, when i have space and money, i would love to get a decent setup. But atm, testing testing rendam kaki in the water dulu.
Y.C.
post Nov 25 2008, 09:06 PM

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I believe the nett SP of Wharfedale 8.1 would be in the region of RM800-RM900 previously. I've no personal experience with them but if this Audiofile review wayback in 2002 is anything to be relied upon, they should be pretty good. IMO, a single TA-2024 T-amp should drive them well unless you're very much into headbanging level. Enjoy.

jazzy939
post Nov 25 2008, 09:31 PM

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I believe the Wharfedale will be a real 'punch'.. have heard them in the shops.. luckily I already have a good pair at home laugh.gif

Go ahead ijan.. make your day! biggrin.gif
TSxtorm
post Nov 27 2008, 12:57 PM

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oh the relay and buffer pre-amp to add too i suppose?

tonight im free...duno got pc to use or not tongue.gif
Najmods
post Nov 27 2008, 01:01 PM

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QUOTE(xtorm @ Nov 27 2008, 12:57 PM)
oh the relay and buffer pre-amp to add too i suppose?

tonight im free...duno got pc to use or not tongue.gif
*
If you want to put a guide regarding that, some not on buffer, if you using it it will almost eliminate the thumping noise when powering up, but you need to power up the buffer BEFORE you power up the T-Amp or the thumping will got worse
ijan
post Nov 27 2008, 02:17 PM

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a simple on-delay that would reduce thumping by switching power to the T-AMP only after a certain level of voltage is available can be made with..few diodes, cheap jellyben opamp and a relay. it should werk, theoretically. But me, talk only, no action smile.gif
grandspy
post Nov 27 2008, 04:00 PM

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HUH?? Version 2 already? I've not even started yet!!! HELP ME!
bsl555
post Nov 27 2008, 04:02 PM

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QUOTE(grandspy @ Nov 27 2008, 04:00 PM)
HUH?? Version 2 already? I've not even started yet!!! HELP ME!
*
Concentrate on improving your vinyl TT passion may benefit you more lah!. blush.gif
Monkey King
post Nov 28 2008, 12:49 AM

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i replaced the stock JNC 470 uF to panasonic FM 470uF 25V...

not much improvement sounds to me... sad.gif

anyone tried expensive boutique input caps yet? (Mundorf...Wonder Cap, Solen, Auri?)
bsl555
post Nov 28 2008, 01:11 AM

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QUOTE(Monkey King @ Nov 28 2008, 12:49 AM)
i replaced the stock JNC 470 uF to panasonic FM 470uF 25V...
not much improvement sounds to me... sad.gif
anyone tried expensive boutique input caps yet? (Mundorf...Wonder Cap, Solen, Auri?)
*
Contrary to popular belief, caps take time to run in. I changed lots of china capacitors in my subwoofer to Panasonic FC's and the improvement wasn't immediate. Having said that, change to boutique caps is no guarantee of improvement. Its installing the right type of cap at the important part of the circuit that'll contribute to improvement.
BTW, those brand caps you mentioned are more suitable and beneficial for tube amplifiers...not T-amp.

This post has been edited by bsl555: Nov 28 2008, 01:12 AM
Y.C.
post Nov 28 2008, 01:43 AM

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I'd agree fully with Bsl’s comment above.

I replaced the stock 220uF 25V caps on my 1st board with Panasonic FM 1000uF 16V ones. First impression is not much of difference lah and what a waste of money! How wrong I was as I discovered later the bass and its weight was way too much for my liking and it overpowered the "micro details". I subsequently replaced them with Panasonic 470uF 25V ones. Moral of story, real sonics could only be realised after a while, ie. after running in the caps.

On input caps, a change from stock caps to more decent ones like Vishay MKT1813 you're having would tell the diff almost immediately. Nevertheless, if you were to do a comparison with another unit with stock caps on board now, the diff is even more pronounced. Do spend the money saved from not buying boutique caps for a better vol pot for better transparency and musicality.


cyl1000
post Nov 28 2008, 07:23 PM

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My second pot from JP fail again..1 channel is louder than the other unless I really crank up the volume that both will be balance. Now the T-Amp is left aside waiting for Alps pot to be in..

Apart from the two caps, what minor mods can be done to further improve the sound? Getting bigger resistors/caps to replace those SMD will make the T-Amp look ugly tongue.gif
bsl555
post Nov 28 2008, 07:43 PM

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QUOTE(cyl1000 @ Nov 28 2008, 07:23 PM)
Apart from the two caps, what minor mods can be done to further improve the sound? Getting bigger resistors/caps to replace those SMD will make the T-Amp look ugly  tongue.gif
*
Improve the sound? blink.gif .. replacing to bigger sized resistors and caps is in practice, dirtying up the sound and increasing the distortion figures.
jazzy939
post Nov 28 2008, 08:25 PM

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You're one unlucky bloke! tongue.gif You have my sympathy ler..
I have bought many pots from JP.. so far they're ok. Guess I am lucky wink.gif
You gotta be careful where you buy stuffs in JP. My stuffs mostly from NIXIE. My next alternative choice would be MAPLIN. Now that your ALPS is on the way..

SMD replacement is no minor mod. Ugly or not, its not about looks, its about SQ. Its gonna be in a box/casing anyway. You worry about how your T-Amp looks? laugh.gif

QUOTE(cyl1000 @ Nov 28 2008, 07:23 PM)
My second pot from JP fail again..1 channel is louder than the other unless I really crank up the volume that both will be balance. Now the T-Amp is left aside waiting for Alps pot to be in..

Apart from the two caps, what minor mods can be done to further improve the sound? Getting bigger resistors/caps to replace those SMD will make the T-Amp look ugly  tongue.gif
*
gabanyayaya
post Nov 28 2008, 08:56 PM

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QUOTE(cyl1000 @ Nov 28 2008, 08:23 PM)
My second pot from JP fail again..1 channel is louder than the other unless I really crank up the volume that both will be balance. Now the T-Amp is left aside waiting for Alps pot to be in..

Apart from the two caps, what minor mods can be done to further improve the sound? Getting bigger resistors/caps to replace those SMD will make the T-Amp look ugly  tongue.gif
*
I guess I'm not the only one having a bad luck in JP....now a defected pot also....haiyya....manya takut wo mau shopping in JP...... shocking.gif
jazzy939
post Nov 28 2008, 08:59 PM

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FYI, NIXIE/MAPLIN is not in JP.. It's on Jalan Landak! laugh.gif
bsl555
post Nov 28 2008, 09:13 PM

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Errr.. you can get unlucky on other components too..like other value resistors accidently mixed up with the actual values you want. Thats why I bring my own multimeter and magnifying glass. My eyesight ain't all that good nowadays.
jazzy939
post Nov 28 2008, 09:19 PM

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Mixed up parts sometimes happen..
Never brought my own DMM, but if you ask for it, they will lend you one. One shop even offered the DMM if I want to use.. tongue.gif

Normally those cheap passive components, I will buy X2! Just for spares.. and stock up.

So far I have been lucky.. wink.gif
bsl555
post Nov 28 2008, 09:25 PM

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Ah..its always normal proceedure for me to check properly before paying. I would hate going there just to get a replacement. BTW, almost every shop I've been would allow you the most inaccurate or malfunctioning meter for your checking. Cheh!. Bring my own and trust it!
jazzy939
post Nov 28 2008, 09:29 PM

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ok, you don't trust them or their meters! laugh.gif
I'll make a note on that! biggrin.gif
gabanyayaya
post Nov 28 2008, 09:43 PM

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A Malaysian made mentality in business.......untung first customer later...
bsl555
post Nov 28 2008, 09:46 PM

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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Nov 28 2008, 09:29 PM)
ok, you don't trust them or their meters! laugh.gif
I'll make a note on that! biggrin.gif
*
How to trust lah?. The meters (referring to analog ones) are so inaccurate or may not deflect to full scale (due to weak batteries). You go try and you tell me. Those meters are there perhaps for formality.
cyl1000
post Nov 28 2008, 11:01 PM

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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Nov 28 2008, 08:25 PM)
You're one unlucky bloke! tongue.gif You have my sympathy ler..
I have bought many pots from JP.. so far they're ok. Guess I am lucky wink.gif
You gotta be careful where you buy stuffs in JP. My stuffs mostly from NIXIE. My next alternative choice would be MAPLIN. Now that your ALPS is on the way..

SMD replacement is no minor mod. Ugly or not, its not about looks, its about SQ. Its gonna be in a box/casing anyway. You worry about how your T-Amp looks? laugh.gif
*
I both all these pots from Jln Landak. 3 pots from RE, only 1 works. 1 from Nixie and doesn't last..ALPS is here in Malaysia but not with me cry.gif

I will not get any box so soon as I have another project (CD63) that need to finish up. Therefore look is quite important when the amp is still naked. I will be bring this amp to test with my client (also hifi kaki) setup in Penang next month and I sure don't want to scare him away with all those resistor sticking out tongue.gif On SQ, I had my friend tested Y.C. T-Amp many weeks ago (thanks Y.C.) and he finally got 1 for himself. He is a very satisfied man now that he find our Malaysian singer Nora much livelier.


Added on November 28, 2008, 11:11 pm
QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Nov 28 2008, 09:19 PM)
Mixed up parts sometimes happen..
Never brought my own DMM, but if you ask for it, they will lend you one. One shop even offered the DMM if I want to use.. tongue.gif

Normally those cheap passive components, I will buy X2! Just for spares.. and stock up.

So far I have been lucky.. wink.gif
*
Gabanyayaya, instead of multimeter, we should bring bro jazzy to buy parts from JP/JL(andak) tongue.gif
I think for my case, it is quite difficult to measure with an analog multimeter. 50K pot and if there is a slight few hundred ohm diff, analog multimeter might not be able to detect it. The only DMM I got is Rapport and I sure won't bring it there as it will make me look like meter reading man from TNB tongue.gif


Added on November 28, 2008, 11:15 pm
QUOTE(bsl555 @ Nov 28 2008, 09:13 PM)
Errr.. you can get unlucky on other components too..like other value resistors accidently mixed up with the actual values you want. Thats why I bring my own multimeter and magnifying glass. My eyesight ain't all that good nowadays.
*
As mentioned before, the quality is so much diff during my college days...I wouldn't mind paying extra if the quality is good. Hope Farnell was like last time where to stock the parts locally.

This post has been edited by cyl1000: Nov 28 2008, 11:15 PM
jazzy939
post Nov 28 2008, 11:20 PM

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Do they really still use those analogue multimeter(sunwa)?
Ok, maybe tomorrow I'll give it a shot! What the heck, just for fun! laugh.gif

QUOTE(bsl555 @ Nov 28 2008, 09:46 PM)
How to trust lah?. The meters (referring to analog ones) are so inaccurate or may not deflect to full scale (due to weak batteries). You go try and you tell me. Those meters are there perhaps for formality.
*
gabanyayaya
post Nov 28 2008, 11:50 PM

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QUOTE(cyl1000 @ Nov 29 2008, 12:01 AM)



Gabanyayaya, instead of multimeter, we should bring bro jazzy to buy parts from JP/JL(andak)  tongue.gif 
I think for my case, it is quite difficult to measure with an analog multimeter. 50K pot and if there is a slight few hundred ohm diff, analog multimeter might not be able to detect it. The only DMM I got is Rapport and I sure won't bring it there as it will make me look like meter reading man from TNB  tongue.gif
cyl1000 you don't know yet...!!!! jazzy is a tour guide to JP...just hop-in to his bus and he'll be showing you site seeing all shops which sells 'jewels' in JP smile.gif

jazzy i hope the pot you bought for me is A-OK
jazzy939
post Nov 28 2008, 11:54 PM

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gabanyayaya,
I have a bunch of pots in my spares box.. no need to buy any ler.. tongue.gif
What value are you looking for? 50K? 100K?
gabanyayaya
post Nov 29 2008, 12:00 AM

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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Nov 29 2008, 12:54 AM)
gabanyayaya,
I have a bunch of pots in my spares box.. no need to buy any ler.. tongue.gif
What value are you looking for? 50K? 100K?
*
100k...maybe....hope the quality for that last..... tongue.gif
jazzy939
post Nov 29 2008, 12:06 AM

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I have several.. last bought from NIXIE at RM4.50 each! Now two has been used, one for Junior's T-Amp(buffered), one in my buffer pre-amp.. so far so good! thumbup.gif
Monkey King
post Nov 29 2008, 12:39 AM

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i do not have volume pot now...since most of the time i control it via the soundcard level.

is it a must to have a physical volume pot for the t amp?

im going to order a bunch of 0.1uF 5% film cap to replace the SMDs
Y.C.
post Nov 29 2008, 12:44 AM

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CYL, you sure are unlucky or been extremely critical of JP volume pots. Lai and I also bought ours from RE Spares but there is no problem so far. You already changed the input and power buffer caps? What caps did you opt for? How's the SQ so far?

If you feel the presence of discreet resistors and caps would make your T-amp board look ugly, you could instead opt for better grade SMDs from Vishay or others which are available at Farnell. Bsl is right that changing SMDs to discreet components would dirty up the sound and increase distortion figures. I would not be worried with that myself as that is exactly my aim here. Most critics of T-amp find it too clean-sounding and some of us here do know that absolute accuracy, neutrality and sounding clean could not be equated with musicality and ultimate music enjoyment. Tonal colour is important and should music lovers worry too much about dirty sound and distortion figures, many of them would not have ventured into "valves and vinyl".

I am happy your friend got himself a T-amp too. One more guy converted, who is next? tongue.gif

QUOTE(cyl1000 @ Nov 28 2008, 07:23 PM)
Apart from the two caps, what minor mods can be done to further improve the sound? Getting bigger resistors/caps to replace those SMD will make the T-Amp look ugly  tongue.gif
*



This post has been edited by Y.C.: Nov 29 2008, 12:47 AM
jazzy939
post Nov 29 2008, 12:45 AM

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No physical pot necessary. Your soundcard level control would be sufficient.

Where are you ordering those caps?

QUOTE(Monkey King @ Nov 29 2008, 12:39 AM)
i do not have volume pot now...since most of the time i control it via the soundcard level.

is it a must to have a physical volume pot for the t amp?

im going to order a bunch of 0.1uF 5% film cap to replace the SMDs
*
Monkey King
post Nov 29 2008, 12:58 AM

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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Nov 29 2008, 12:45 AM)
No physical pot necessary. Your soundcard level control would be sufficient.

Where are you ordering those caps?
*
either farnell or RS...

now the option is... to replace it with SMD or typical film ones
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post Nov 29 2008, 01:35 AM

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Now, that is your call! laugh.gif
cyl1000
post Nov 29 2008, 08:28 AM

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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Nov 29 2008, 12:06 AM)
I have several.. last bought from NIXIE at RM4.50 each! Now two has been used, one for Junior's T-Amp(buffered), one in my buffer pre-amp.. so far so good! thumbup.gif
*
Initially the pot from Nixie is ok but after sometime, the problem start. I've even tried a little contact cleaner (I thought my environment is very dirty tongue.gif ) but still the same...Like I say before, no need DMM, just bring you along tongue.gif
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post Nov 29 2008, 08:47 AM

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Again,
It's also 'luck' even with parts from NIXIE!
Even at NIXIE they have 'real' stuffs and 'cheaper' stuffs of the same brand.. use the sentence, 'saya mau original punya!'. laugh.gif

A story.
I bought a relay from NIXIE. Went home tested it, it was great. The following week I went again to get another one bringing in the sample. Now the price is RM2 higher! I asked why, the guy said 'this is original'. WTF? I bought a 'not-ori' last week? Comparing physically the two items to my surprised, the 'not-ori' one looks better with better finish. Since I already bought a 'non-ori' one, I might as well bought another one! laugh.gif

What's intriguing is that both the stuffs sits in the same tray! I asked the guy how he knows which is the ori ones.. he just laugh!
If he messed up, I got the real one at 'non-ori' price! rclxms.gif

Not a peace of mind, huh? tongue.gif
cyl1000
post Nov 29 2008, 08:48 AM

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QUOTE(Y.C. @ Nov 29 2008, 12:44 AM)
CYL, you sure are unlucky or been extremely critical of JP volume pots. Lai and I also bought ours from RE Spares but there is no problem so far. You already changed the input and power buffer caps? What caps did you opt for? How's the SQ so far?

If you feel the presence of discreet resistors and caps would make your T-amp board look ugly, you could instead opt for better grade SMDs from Vishay or others which are available at Farnell. Bsl is right that changing SMDs to discreet components would dirty up the sound and increase distortion figures. I would not be worried with that myself as that is exactly my aim here. Most critics of T-amp find it too clean-sounding and some of us here do know that absolute accuracy, neutrality and sounding clean could not be equated with musicality and ultimate music enjoyment. Tonal colour is important and should music lovers worry too much about dirty sound and distortion figures, many of them would not have ventured into "valves and vinyl". 

I am happy your friend got himself a T-amp too. One more guy converted, who is next?  tongue.gif
*
Actually the price I'm paying for JP/JL pots is too good to complain but when the pots keep failing, just imagine the frustration...though I'm unlucky with the ports but I'm lucky that I found T-amp tongue.gif

For the caps, I've use the recommended MKT1822 and Panasonic FC 470uF. The SQ, not really run in yet and it is left idle as the L+R channel is not balance now.

For discrete upgrade, can you guys comment more on its sonic improvement? How much different does it make with SMD..Do you like it with discrete? Since its picking up noise, the result would be different for each of us...if it is not to our liking, hard to revert back unless spend another RM55 and time to run in the T-amp again...
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post Nov 29 2008, 09:00 AM

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cyl100,
There's some postings in V1 with regards to SQ of the SMD replacements( I think). I did it and there's looking back. BTW I am still using the F-ELNA for my input caps. So far they have been good! biggrin.gif
Will wait if they're gonna wear out, hope not! I have other caps standing by in position..
Monkey King
post Nov 29 2008, 09:00 AM

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i would choose SMD components at the same value and grade with the replacement ones, although is much cheaper, but the soldering skill required for soldering SMD is real KUNG FU...

or maybe in the end i need to get a professional soldering station biggrin.gif
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post Nov 29 2008, 09:06 AM

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Yes, that would be handy!
I mostly use my Hakko Presto and only on some tight positions I had to use my fine tipped made in china CT soldering station. You need steady hands, sharp eye sight and lots of patience! laugh.gif


QUOTE(Monkey King @ Nov 29 2008, 09:00 AM)
i would choose SMD components at the same value and grade with the replacement ones, although is much cheaper, but the soldering skill required for soldering SMD is real KUNG FU...

or maybe in the end i need to get a professional soldering station biggrin.gif
*
Y.C.
post Nov 29 2008, 09:20 AM

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The difference in SQ of using discreet compos are quite pronounced (we never tried out better SMDs). The 4 pcs of 20K input resistors actually increased overall resolution and clarity of the T-amp further. As for the rests of 0.47uF and 0.1uF caps, Jazzy wrote a review immediately after he completed his stage 1 mods; try finding it in the Ver 1 thread. During our 1st T-amp t/t, I believe most of us who heard actually like SQ of Jazzy’s T-amp with discreet compos, so question of reverting back to SMDs never arise. We didn't hear noises; the discreet compos are slightly more colourful and dirty-sounding just like using a discreet attenuator over carbon volume pot.

Main problem is with desoldering out the SMDs and soldering in the discrete compos. Try to keep the legs as short as possible and use a 15W fine tip Eltax soldering iron. I finally got one myself but as I need to be out of town this weekend, no fiddling with my 3rd T-amp until next week or so.

QUOTE(cyl1000 @ Nov 29 2008, 08:48 AM)
For discrete upgrade, can you guys comment more on its sonic improvement? How much different does it make with SMD..Do you like it with discrete? Since its picking up noise, the result would be different for each of us...if it is not to our liking, hard to revert back unless spend another RM55 and time to run in the T-amp again...
*


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post Nov 29 2008, 09:34 AM

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I would agree with Y.C.
The 20K input resistor replacement make one hell of a difference! thumbup.gif and listening is believing! wink.gif

One warning though.. careful with your desoldering pump! The tracks are so small/thin, if you're not careful, you may suck it out with your pump.. someone suggested a desoldering braid which I think would tremendously helps in this situation. A Pro's Kit solderwick, 2.5mm wide, 1.5 meter long would costs RM3.50 if I am not mistaken.

Y.C, you got a 3rd T-Amp to work on?! Good for you! laugh.gif

This post has been edited by jazzy939: Nov 29 2008, 09:34 AM


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post Nov 29 2008, 11:08 AM

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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Nov 29 2008, 09:34 AM)
I would agree with Y.C.
The 20K input resistor replacement make one hell of a difference! thumbup.gif and listening is believing! wink.gif
What exactly did you replace it with, different value, no?
Monkey King
post Nov 29 2008, 11:24 AM

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using my spare t-amp to practice soldering out SMD, so far so good it takes my clumsy hand 10 sec average to remove each 20K smd resistor...

however to solder in new ones..... might not be that smooth

i was thinking if can use 0.1% metal film resistors? wouldn't it be better?

This post has been edited by Monkey King: Nov 29 2008, 11:25 AM
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post Nov 29 2008, 11:48 AM

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I use exactly the same what Y.C is using: Vishay BC 1% tolerence metal film resistors.

Monkey King, 0.1% might be an overkill as the temperature rise of the amp is kinda small, so personally I do not expect the resistance to drift so much, so a 1% tolerance would be sufficient.

However do not stop yourself if you wanna use a 0.1%.. it would be interesting to know if it does 'improve' the sound, yes? tongue.gif

QUOTE(bsl555 @ Nov 29 2008, 11:08 AM)
What exactly did you replace it with, different value, no?
*
Monkey King
post Nov 29 2008, 12:32 PM

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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Nov 29 2008, 11:48 AM)
I use exactly the same what Y.C is using: Vishay BC 1% tolerence metal film resistors.

Monkey King, 0.1% might be an overkill as the temperature rise of the amp is kinda small, so personally I do not expect the resistance to drift so much, so a 1% tolerance would be sufficient.

However do not stop yourself if you wanna use a 0.1%.. it would be interesting to know if it does 'improve' the sound, yes? tongue.gif
*
well i cant really tell how much it improves since i never tried the 1% yet... anyway...most 1% are quite cheap... 1/4W type would be sufficient eh? hehe

now i have an excuse to use my another t-amp to replace my car amp...

i furbared the car amp when trying to change the op amps... damn 2 layer PCB... too lazy to figure out where is the problem now..declare RIP...

well my question is, direct connect V+ to battery positive (with a fuse of course) and GND directly to ' - ' post of battery.

would this t-amp drain away the battery juice over time via such connection? since the board dosent have place for me to connect REM+

plan to use it to drive dual 6 x 9 at rear biggrin.gif

This post has been edited by Monkey King: Nov 29 2008, 12:32 PM
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post Nov 29 2008, 07:08 PM

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Monkey King,
The amp would drain few milliamps, still why waste when you can put a power switch, right? If your head unit has a REM+, use it then direct or via a relay.

xtorm should be able to answer this as I have not use it in my car, but I don't see any problem the T-Amp driving a pair of dual 6X9 speakers. 4 ohms, right?
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post Nov 29 2008, 07:14 PM

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well yeah, now i guess i would use a switch for it till i can find a relay circuit for it....
TSxtorm
post Nov 29 2008, 09:06 PM

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sorry guys for the late update, been away for few days tongue.gif

QUOTE(Monkey King @ Nov 29 2008, 12:32 PM)
well i cant really tell how much it improves since i never tried the 1% yet... anyway...most 1% are quite cheap... 1/4W type would be sufficient eh? hehe

now i have an excuse to use my another t-amp to replace my car amp...

i furbared the car amp when trying to change the op amps... damn 2 layer PCB... too lazy to figure out where is the problem now..declare RIP...

well my question is, direct connect V+ to battery positive (with a fuse of course) and GND directly to ' - ' post of battery.

would this t-amp drain away the battery juice over time via such connection? since the board dosent have place for me to connect REM+

plan to use it to drive dual 6 x 9 at rear biggrin.gif
*
yes it can drive your 6x9, as in how loud i have no idea. a 12v direct with an on\off switch is enough, if you tot off using the rem+, a relay can be use, REM+ have enough power to trigger a relay, tht was wat i did with my friend car amp smile.gif but watch out for aeroplane sound
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post Nov 29 2008, 09:14 PM

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QUOTE(xtorm @ Nov 29 2008, 09:06 PM)
sorry guys for the late update, been away for few days tongue.gif
yes it can drive your 6x9, as in how loud i have no idea. a 12v direct with an on\off switch is enough, if you tot off using the rem+, a relay can be use, REM+ have enough power to trigger a relay, tht was wat i did with my friend car amp smile.gif but watch out for aeroplane sound
*
yo bro, thanks for the reply... i doubt any aeroplane sound would occur as long as you have proper grounding back to battery ' - ' terminal.

well, if im not mistaken, the battery voltage would fluctuate due to inconsistent load? (A/C, headlights , etc...) do we need to construct a voltage regulator for it? say LM7812 equivalent..?

if the t amp project in car is successful, might get another 2 units to power up the components. all using Pre-out, ditch the build in amp of HU. Forget about spending few hundred bucks on fancy car amps..

mind share the relay circuit? coz its kinda hard for me to goggle for right one.. sad.gif
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post Nov 29 2008, 10:13 PM

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No relay circuit necessary. Just buy the 12V relay for the car and wire accordingly. 5 bucks only I think.. wink.gif

Anyway bought two 50K pot from NIXIE today.. we'll see how long will it lasts! wink.gif RM2.50 ea. laugh.gif

This post has been edited by jazzy939: Nov 29 2008, 10:56 PM
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post Nov 29 2008, 11:01 PM

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Been a while since I done something to my T-Amp. I use Senior discreet amp, now the soundstage is very wide and unbelievably deep, before this everything is in your face, like if you hear artists performs on stage, all the instruments is at the same level as the singer, now everything sits where it supposed to be, and even layers of vocal is prominent, my favorite artists love to use her whisper vocal behind her singing vocal, now I can hear that without any trouble

Another mod I done is using separate power from my PC PSU because when I game, I hear some noise because of my graphics card emit strange high frequency noise to the power line (its normal, as I read around, some components on graphics card emit that, forgot what it is called), I found one old 450W PSU lying around, I open it up, replaced few capacitor with higher quality and jumpstart it to power T-Amp. 15Amps of current available to the T-Amp only. I don't know if that sufficient enough to give boom to it tongue.gif Because the load is so low, I run it totally passive. How does it sounds? Wonderful biggrin.gif
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post Nov 29 2008, 11:08 PM

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It's s'wonderful! wink.gif
Monkey King
post Nov 30 2008, 04:26 AM

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I tried swap the T amp power supply from the Teletron 12V 3A unregulated to Generic PC PSU (i suppose this is also another SMPS as well) since i heard there is a lot of good response using SMPS.

part of the reason also i'm worried that constant 16V supply (measured with DMM) from the teletron might kill the T amp someday.

however, much to my surprise, the t amp DOES NOT LIKE PC PSU.

when i switch on, there is 'noise' yes noise like you heard when your radio reception is bad.. even w/o playing any songs..

quicky disconnect it, tried with few other PSU like Enlight, Acbel... same result...


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post Nov 30 2008, 07:16 AM

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Unregulated PSU's voltage is always higher when measured with no loads...

My Junior is using a PC PSU.. no big deal.. what happened to your T-Amp? hmm.gif
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post Nov 30 2008, 08:04 AM

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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Nov 30 2008, 07:16 AM)
Unregulated PSU's voltage is always higher when measured with no loads...

My Junior is using a PC PSU.. no big deal.. what happened to your T-Amp? hmm.gif
*
good morning bro jazzy...

i just did some minor mod to my teletron unregulated..

and well the measured 16V is obtained when the t amp is connected to the supply, with music playing..


oh about the mod...

i paralleled one of this cap at the output of the power supply, to my delight, there is much improvement in term of sonics.

more depth, warm vocal...
user posted image

i may plan to have 3 t-amps with different mod level (and a comparison of course)

1: high end, putting the best replacement component for the amp, with primary objective of maximizing the SQ. (Boutique input caps 2-3% tol, tighther tolerance components, replace almost all the components on board, left out only the TA2024 itself) of course the parts are the best that i can possibly afford.

2. Mid range: the one i have now ... Vishay MKT1813 input, SMD caps replacement with polyester caps (i've ordered 50 pcs of KEMET 0.1uF polyester 5% from farnell....dirt cheap, 1% Metal Film resistors. i have lots of 104 Mylar caps to replace..

3. Base Line: almost stock, maybe just remove the polarized 1uF or replace with anything i can salvage.


all 3 will feed by same power supply, driving same speakers

what do you think biggrin.gif

This post has been edited by Monkey King: Nov 30 2008, 08:22 AM
jazzy939
post Nov 30 2008, 08:43 AM

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Morning Monkey King!
Big plans there! laugh.gif I'd say its a good learning experience modding the T-Amps, tuning/tweaking and how each one of the mods affect the sound output. Some very significant, some barely. You won't know until you do it hands on!
Keep us posted. Good luck and have fun! thumbup.gif


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post Nov 30 2008, 08:50 AM

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aha yeah actually i'm planning to get few more t amps, for car, and maybe a good idea for father's day present too... (ready built of course)

since tripath no longer produce any of these chip, i do worrythis t amp might extinct like black gates caps someday... sad.gif
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post Nov 30 2008, 08:54 AM

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You better get them while they're available! tongue.gif

But there are other amps around.
The TA2024 was raved for the 'best bang per buck' it presents.. wink.gif

So little money, so much 'sound'...

This post has been edited by jazzy939: Nov 30 2008, 08:54 AM
abel
post Nov 30 2008, 02:10 PM

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ermm make me wanna built one T-amp ... smile.gif
can this T-amp feed with 14v DC .... ?


Added on November 30, 2008, 2:28 pm
QUOTE(Najmods @ Nov 29 2008, 11:01 PM)
Been a while since I done something to my T-Amp. I use Senior discreet amp, now the soundstage is very wide and unbelievably deep, before this everything is in your face, like if you hear artists performs on stage, all the instruments is at the same level as the singer, now everything sits where it supposed to be, and even layers of vocal is prominent, my favorite artists love to use her whisper vocal behind her singing vocal, now I can hear that without any trouble

Another mod I done is using separate power from my PC PSU because when I game, I hear some noise because of my graphics card emit strange high frequency noise to the power line (its normal, as I read around, some components on graphics card emit that, forgot what it is called), I found one old 450W PSU lying around, I open it up, replaced few capacitor with higher quality and jumpstart it to power T-Amp. 15Amps of current available to the T-Amp only. I don't know if that sufficient enough to give boom to it tongue.gif Because the load is so low, I run it totally passive. How does it sounds? Wonderful biggrin.gif
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*
suggess not to use solid state PSU

This post has been edited by abel: Nov 30 2008, 02:28 PM
ijan
post Nov 30 2008, 02:33 PM

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Back on the PSU requirement, since the unit is SUPPOSEDLY ran on 8xAA battery, power input shuld be that high at output power of 10W into 8ohm. Say getting a 15V out tranny regulated to 12V, at most 30VA is good enough eh? Iq is too little to even bother, this shud lead to proper operation of the chip?

The datasheet isnt of much help..

However, a 1A 12V dc jack shud be able to run it eh? Got my new *baby* liao..
Najmods
post Nov 30 2008, 02:40 PM

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QUOTE(abel @ Nov 30 2008, 02:10 PM)
ermm make me wanna built one T-amp ... smile.gif
can this T-amp feed with 14v DC .... ?


Added on November 30, 2008, 2:28 pm

suggess not to use solid state PSU
*
IIRC maximum you can go is 13.8V. If you use 14V maybe it can run, but it won't last long

About the 'not using solid state PSU', please elaborate
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post Nov 30 2008, 02:44 PM

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QUOTE(Najmods @ Nov 30 2008, 02:40 PM)
IIRC maximum you can go is 13.8V. If you use 14V maybe it can run, but it won't last long

About the 'not using solid state PSU', please elaborate
*
means not using computer PSU .... using those AC transformer than put rectified to convert to DC

This post has been edited by abel: Nov 30 2008, 02:47 PM
Najmods
post Nov 30 2008, 02:50 PM

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QUOTE(abel @ Nov 30 2008, 02:44 PM)
means not using computer PSU .... using those AC transformer than put rectified to convert to DC
*
Any advantages of doing so?
abel
post Nov 30 2008, 02:57 PM

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QUOTE(Najmods @ Nov 30 2008, 02:50 PM)
Any advantages of doing so?
*
normally when u used motor or Switching PSU , its becomes distorted
jazzy939
post Nov 30 2008, 06:21 PM

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SMPS is switching PSU! laugh.gif
The T-Amp works well with switching PSU, linear or even battery! (SLA)..
It is not your normal chip amp. Its a Class T and/or D... normal believe/school of thoughts about SMPS being 'dirty' does not apply here... laugh.gif

ijan, a 12V 1A should suffice but higher is 'better' I am using a 4.2A at 13.6VDC

QUOTE(abel @ Nov 30 2008, 02:57 PM)
normally when u used motor or Switching PSU , its becomes distorted
*
This post has been edited by jazzy939: Nov 30 2008, 06:24 PM
abel
post Nov 30 2008, 08:38 PM

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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Nov 30 2008, 06:21 PM)
SMPS is switching PSU! laugh.gif
The T-Amp works well with switching PSU, linear or even battery! (SLA)..
It is not your normal chip amp. Its a Class T and/or D... normal believe/school of thoughts about SMPS being 'dirty' does not apply here...  laugh.gif 

ijan, a 12V 1A should suffice but higher is 'better' I am using a 4.2A at 13.6VDC
*
ohhh i dunno mah hehehe tongue.gif
thanks for the information

This post has been edited by abel: Nov 30 2008, 10:49 PM
Y.C.
post Dec 2 2008, 02:57 PM

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My 2nd unit of T-amp (with Vishay MKT1822 2.2uF 100V and Panasonic FM 470uF 25V caps) + JP’s Alpha 50K volume pot + computer-notebook-style 12V DC 2.5A SMPS are currently with a very close friend in his office. He uses it over his Cyrus 1 amp driving a pair of Celestion 3 and loves the T-amp instantly. His words: “Sound from your tiny amp is excellent. It’s fast and transparent. My Cyrus 1 sounds slower and less transparent by comparison.” He, however, acknowledges impact of bass of the T-amp is light to which I recommend a 12V DC 7Ah Hitachi battery as he is a firm believer in battery power.

I shall need to buy another new board from Xtorm to build an unit of T-amp for my friend.

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post Dec 2 2008, 04:20 PM

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Y.C.,
More T-Amp purchase eh? Would there be another bulk? biggrin.gif
I have two spare/unused T-Amp boards.. PM me if interested wink.gif

Y.C.
post Dec 2 2008, 07:04 PM

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Jazzy, many thanks for offer.
The last round, Lai and I wanted 3 pcs of T-amp boards but Xtorm only has 2 pcs to supply so there is a backorder of 1 pc still unfulfilled. If we need more, we would revert to you accordingly. Thanks again. smile.gif

QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Dec 2 2008, 04:20 PM)
Y.C.,
More T-Amp purchase eh? Would there be another bulk? biggrin.gif
I have two spare/unused T-Amp boards.. PM me if interested wink.gif
*


BSOD
post Dec 2 2008, 07:31 PM

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I have one unused&virgin t-amp board from xtorm to let go too. wink.gif PM if you are interested. smile.gif
jazzy939
post Dec 2 2008, 08:05 PM

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No problemo Y.C.
Anytime.. BTW, I still owe you some monies.. laugh.gif
QUOTE(Y.C. @ Dec 2 2008, 07:04 PM)
Jazzy, many thanks for offer.
The last round, Lai and I wanted 3 pcs of T-amp boards but Xtorm only has 2 pcs to supply so there is a backorder of 1 pc still unfulfilled. If we need more, we would revert to you accordingly. Thanks again.  smile.gif
*
Y.C.
post Dec 2 2008, 08:14 PM

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I was at my old folks’ place during the last weekend. I have a Denon DCD-690 cdp, Denon PM-360 integrated amp driving a pair of 86dB Celestion 7 (sealed boxes) there. After so many years of hardly playing them, I found the sound to be slightly out after their set-up. I’m contemplating selling everything away and build a T-amp (and just make use of a Sharp DVD player) to drive a smaller pair of entry level mini monitors to obtain neater looks, good sound and get back some money in return. If the plan is on with no objection from my old folks, I’ll PM you guys.

Jazzy, that is small issue. When we meet up next time or we actually have the TT t/t session in the Sin City. tongue.gif


This post has been edited by Y.C.: Dec 2 2008, 08:24 PM
jazzy939
post Dec 2 2008, 08:19 PM

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Whoa.. more plans brewing! laugh.gif
I think your folks will love the T-Amp! wink.gif Should be able to drive that Celestion beautifully..
BTW, I have forgotten how a Celestion sounds like. My first pair of speakers was a Celestion Ditton 100, a bookshelf driven by the 3020. Sweet! biggrin.gif

Ok.. will wait for your cue tongue.gif
cyl1000
post Dec 2 2008, 11:31 PM

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I've just ordered 3pcs from Xtorm last few days smile.gif
Looks like there will be more t-amp owner out there...
jazzy939
post Dec 2 2008, 11:48 PM

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cyl,
by the quantities bulked by xtorm, there are a number out there! They're forum shy I supposed! tongue.gif

My T-Amp has no more progress. I have also stopped at my current buffer pre-amp which to me complements the T-Amp rather well.. whatever leftovers of sharpness/roughness in the sonics has been smoothened by the buffer pre-amp. Its totally so musical now... wink.gif
Y.C.
post Dec 3 2008, 01:31 AM

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Here is an interesting documentary at YouTube on Surface Mount Soldering. With the right tools, it does not look that scary to work on including the TA2024 chip.
Monkey King
post Dec 3 2008, 07:55 AM

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nice video, downloaded it...!
cyl1000
post Dec 4 2008, 08:27 AM

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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Dec 2 2008, 11:48 PM)
cyl,
by the quantities bulked by xtorm, there are a number out there! They're forum shy I supposed! tongue.gif

My T-Amp has no more progress. I have also stopped at my current buffer pre-amp which to me complements the T-Amp rather well.. whatever leftovers of sharpness/roughness in the sonics has been smoothened by the buffer pre-amp. Its totally so musical now... wink.gif
*

due to the simplicity of the amp,there is not much to tweak unless you do something on its peripherals like pre/buffer and a nice casing like yours smile.gif
jazzy939
post Dec 4 2008, 10:21 AM

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I have maxed out the tweaks, thats why!
Unless you're contented with the input caps replacements and the two power caps.. and don't forget the SMDs!.. there's nothing left to do but enjoy the music! laugh.gif


Y.C.
post Dec 4 2008, 01:19 PM

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My almost completed 3rd T-amp board (supposed to be with full discrete parts) which would eventually find its way into the casing of my 1st T-amp:
Attached Image

As of now, there are only 2 SMDs remaining on the board: R7 and C5.
R7: 8.2K 1W resistor, the discrete resistor from Farnell is ¼W and I don’t quite trust the JP resistor (I bought both).
C5: 1.0uF capacitor. I’ve yet to figure out the placement of polarity of Panasonic cap for it. No specification from the schematics, this is output from pin 36 of TA2024 chip going to VDD.

The T-amp board with full discrete components doesn’t look too ugly, ya? tongue.gif

jazzy939
post Dec 4 2008, 02:01 PM

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Y.C.,
Good job there! thumbup.gif
Yep.. look great to me! wink.gif
Monkey King
post Dec 4 2008, 08:44 PM

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Y.C. hows the improvement by changing all to discreet components (and the cost too) tongue.gif, im planning to do the same like you..
bsl555
post Dec 4 2008, 10:15 PM

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QUOTE(Y.C. @ Dec 4 2008, 01:19 PM)
C5: 1.0uF capacitor. I’ve yet to figure out the placement of polarity of Panasonic cap for it. No specification from the schematics, this is output from pin 36 of TA2024 chip going to VDD.
*
Positive cap terminal to Pin 36. Negative terminal to Pin 33.
Hope that helps.

This post has been edited by bsl555: Dec 4 2008, 10:16 PM
Y.C.
post Dec 4 2008, 11:00 PM

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Thanks Bsl. I actually soldered the electrolytic cap (C5) with its negative terminal to pin 36 as I thought its other link is to positive side of the 12V DC input by looking at the physical T-amp board. My apology for the incomplete infomation provided.

For info of all, I've fitted the T-amp board with discrete components into the casing of my 1st T-amp in the office after work today. I shall post a picture of it later tonight. As the T-amp board plus all discrete components (apart from my 24-steps 50K discreet attenuator) are brand new and yet to be run-in, I can't really pass a judgment on its sound now but my first impression is a more transparent, more mellow and less clinical sound but slightly softer at the same volume. I thought this T-amp sounds more analogue than my other units. Some of us heard Jazzy's T-amp also replaced with discrete components during our T-amp t/t session and I like it a lot. Cost of discreet components (all from Farnell) used on my T-amp board are as per below. Do note that some of the caps are sold in multiple of 5 or 10.

Vishay Roederstein MKT1813 2.2uF 250V coupling caps (2) - RM14.66
Panasonic FC 470uF 25V electrolytic caps (2) - RM4.82
Vishay BC 0.47uF 63V caps (6) - RM15.84
Vishay BC 0.1uF 63V caps (6) - RM7.02
Vishay BC 1000pF 400V caps (4) - RM2.68
Vishay BC 100pF 50V caps (2) - RM2.58
Panasonic Audio Grade 1uF 50V electrolytic caps (2) - RM1.90
Vishay BC 1% Metal Film 20K ohm resistors (4) - RM1.68
Vishay BC 1% Metal Film 10 ohm resistors (2) - RM0.84
Total: RM52.02

If electrolytic caps are to be used (I myself use Panasonic 1.0uF caps in C5 and C17), please observe their polarity. A better way to mount the resistors on the T-amp board would be to let them stand parallel instead of being horizontal as in my case. I could hardly find enough space to mount them in R9 and R10 so much so that I need to remove the 10ohm resistor after having soldered it properly and in the process accidentally lifted the soldering pad of R9 bottom and ended up having to tap its leg to the blotch of solder below C28 bottom. Please exercise care and do not solder and desolder many times as the soldering pads could come out quite easily. If the power buffer caps are to be replaced, the stock caps should to be removed prior to the soldering in of the discrete components.

This modification is rather 'absurd' as we are putting in discrete components onto the T-amp board meant for SMDs. It took me 6 hours to complete mine but I feel the outcome to changes to sound of the T-amp is totally fantastic, no regrets. Most important of all, at the end of day we are using it to listen to our music. Enjoy. biggrin.gif


This post has been edited by Y.C.: Dec 5 2008, 12:47 AM
jazzy939
post Dec 4 2008, 11:24 PM

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Y.C.,
Excellent work with details there! wink.gif
Shall we have another audition/session? tongue.gif
Y.C.
post Dec 5 2008, 12:53 AM

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Thanks for the compliment, Jazzy

I would be game for another T-amp session but if possible let us have one towards end of the month if the timing is also okay to most who are looking forward to it.

jazzy939
post Dec 5 2008, 12:56 AM

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You're welcome Y.C.!
Sounds good to me wink.gif Shall we pick a date/venue later?

This post has been edited by jazzy939: Dec 5 2008, 12:57 AM
Y.C.
post Dec 5 2008, 05:37 AM

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I promised a picture of my T-amp board with discrete components in casing of my 1st T-amp earlier. Here it is:
Attached Image

On its sound quality, after playing non-stop for 6 consecutive hours, it is so beautiful now and easily some 20% better in all areas (resolution, expressiveness, micro details, pace, 3D soundstaging, dynamics and even dynamic shadings) in comparison to my 1st board. As I am using a discrete attenuator rather than a carbon type volume pot, I find the high frequencies extended yet not bright sounding to the extent of being unforgiving as reported by Jazzy after his stage 1 mod. Total cost to for discrete components replacement is RM52 as per my earlier comment, almost the price of 1 T-amp board. However, to me, the mod is well worth every sen spent so for those who could handle the soldering iron reasonably well and are deliberating whether to perform the mod or otherwise, my advice would be to go for it and tell me later if I have been incorrect in my assessment.

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post Dec 5 2008, 02:09 PM

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Good job YC. The passive pot to the PCB is certainly an advantage compared to an external passive pot patched with 1m interconnects. Yours will cut the crap and much shorter signal path. I always believe in the shortest signal path where possible.
Y.C.
post Dec 5 2008, 03:48 PM

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Thanks for compliment, Bsl.

I've always like passive preamps myself for their sheer resolution and transparency. However, in order for passive preamps to weave their magic, output impedance of our cdp/DAC must be low and their output voltage high. Length of the 2 pairs of interconnects used should be kept as short as possible avoiding unscreened cables and those with high capacitance value. Lastly, the need to match them to power amps capable of higher gain/sensitivity. After some readings, apparently a 10K attenuator is the more commonly adopted value for passive preamps as the aim here would be to increase the input impedance and lower the output impedance. The reknown Audio Synthesis Passion uses a 15K attenuator. As for preamps with active buffering stage, some of the resolution and transparency are sacrificed for more drive and dynamics.

cyl1000
post Dec 5 2008, 06:53 PM

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QUOTE(Y.C. @ Dec 4 2008, 01:19 PM)
My almost completed 3rd T-amp board (supposed to be with full discrete parts) which would eventually find its way into the casing of my 1st T-amp:
Attached Image

As of now, there are only 2 SMDs remaining on the board: R7 and C5.
R7: 8.2K 1W resistor, the discrete resistor from Farnell is ¼W and I don’t quite trust the JP resistor (I bought both).
C5: 1.0uF capacitor. I’ve yet to figure out the placement of polarity of Panasonic cap for it. No specification from the schematics, this is output from pin 36 of TA2024 chip going to VDD.

The T-amp board with full discrete components doesn’t look too ugly, ya?  tongue.gif
*
It looks great but I was wondering you must have use some sort of "surgery" instrument to put up all these puzzles (caps) so close together tongue.gif
TSxtorm
post Dec 5 2008, 10:52 PM

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QUOTE(Y.C. @ Dec 4 2008, 01:19 PM)
My almost completed 3rd T-amp board (supposed to be with full discrete parts) which would eventually find its way into the casing of my 1st T-amp:
Attached Image

As of now, there are only 2 SMDs remaining on the board: R7 and C5.
R7: 8.2K 1W resistor, the discrete resistor from Farnell is ¼W and I don’t quite trust the JP resistor (I bought both).
C5: 1.0uF capacitor. I’ve yet to figure out the placement of polarity of Panasonic cap for it. No specification from the schematics, this is output from pin 36 of TA2024 chip going to VDD.

The T-amp board with full discrete components doesn’t look too ugly, ya?  tongue.gif
*
wow nice!!! notworthy.gif

im in for TT session if time and work premits biggrin.gif, getting back on my feet now smile.gif
Y.C.
post Dec 6 2008, 12:47 AM

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Thanks. I only used a Antax 18W soldering iron with fine tip for the soldering job and my fingers to hold them, no 'surgery' tools. I removed the 2 rear ferrite inductors before I desolder the SMDs and solder in the discrete caps and resistors. I should have also removed the 2 front ones as the Panasonic FC470uF 25V caps are way too 'fat'.
QUOTE(cyl1000 @ Dec 5 2008, 06:53 PM)
It looks great but I was wondering you must have use some sort of "surgery" instrument to put up all these puzzles (caps) so close together   tongue.gif
*


Thanks. We certainly look forward to have you around this time around.
QUOTE(xtorm @ Dec 5 2008, 10:52 PM)
wow nice!!! notworthy.gif
im in for TT session if time and work premits biggrin.gif, getting back on my feet now smile.gif
*



This post has been edited by Y.C.: Dec 6 2008, 12:57 AM
Y.C.
post Dec 7 2008, 07:34 PM

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After 3 days of continuously being powered up by a Meanwell S-50-12 SMPS and playing music several hours a day, I dare pronounce that my discrete parts T-amp will take on and give many highend amplifiers a run for money. What it could not produce in quantity (huge wattage) is compensated by the sheer quality which oozes from it. tongue.gif


jazzy939
post Dec 7 2008, 08:23 PM

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and we believe you! wink.gif
Y.C.
post Dec 9 2008, 02:14 PM

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I agree fully with the remark of "good sound has universal standards" that I read in an online article rather than the frequently uttered defensive ones such as "I like how my system sound and I don’t give a damn to how others perceive it".

I have the pleasure of having the presence of a fellow forumer over at my place during the weekend to listen to my main system. Towards the end of the listening session, he pointed out that my system sounded a wee bit too fast that the low bass just does not have enough 'grunt'. Since I have always like my music to sound fast and rhythmic, this realisation came as a shock to me. I later zoom down and thought the culprit to be my vdH First interconnects as I have adopted the best compromise (I wanted to tame the rather harsh digital sound to make it sound more closer to analogue) here for the least trade-off. Apparently the trade-off is not the least now or so it seems.

The equipment used as benchmark to illustrate the shortcoming further is none other than my T-amp with discrete components which is much more transparent and sounds airier with better decay. I think the fellow forumer may find the sound of T-amp to be acceptable now.


This post has been edited by Y.C.: Dec 9 2008, 08:24 PM
jazzy939
post Dec 9 2008, 05:20 PM

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Y.C.,
Thanks for the update!
I had a 'stranger' last weekend.. an astro installer installing my astro hardwares.
While clearing up his paper work, I played my T-Amp setup. He said my system sounds like a RM10,000 system! laugh.gif
He also said he has a friend that own a HiFI shop and spend lots of time listening to the HiFi equipments.. I showed him the tiny T-Amp and he was impressed. The only comment he gave is that he likes to listen to percussions and thats lacking in my system. No problemo. The songs that I played don't have much percussions anyway! biggrin.gif

Thats one up for the T-Amp! wink.gif

This post has been edited by jazzy939: Dec 9 2008, 05:24 PM
Y.C.
post Dec 11 2008, 10:19 AM

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Jazzy, it looks like we are the only ones raving about out T-amps now. Anyhow, enjoy our music with our T-amps. flex.gif biggrin.gif

Y.C.
post Dec 11 2008, 07:43 PM

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Further update to the sound of my T-amp with full discrete components: A full week has elapsed since I completed the modification; the sound of it now varies very substantially to when it was newly done. Who were arguing that amplifiers need no running in?

Okay, back to how it sounds now. I have used much bigger caps of Vishay Roederstein MKT1813 2.2uF 250V in the input stage and Vishay BC 1000pF 400V in the output biasing stage and a result of this is my T-amp sounds very much smoother and fuller. (I like MKT1813 2.2uF 63V caps a lot and whatever they do to the sound, the effects of these bigger 250V ones are even more pronounced. Monkey King only used an adjective to describe them: 'goosebumps' to which I totally agree). Absolute speed is just a tad slower compared to my other units of T-amp with SMDs or even Jazzy’s unit where a substantial lot of SMDs were replaced with discrete components. I have not installed any additional PSU cap(s) so as to maintain the same level of 'micro details' and overall balance of sound. I thought its timing now is almost perfect. Bsl has commented in this thread recently that replacing SMDs with discrete components will induce noise, distortion and make the T-amp sound 'dirty'. I think he is right but whatever noise induced is certainly not audible (although I must admit the T-amp is less clean and clinical-sounding now) and could the distortion be the 'even-order harmonic distortion' which are pleasing to our ears? Yes, you got me correctly, I am inferring that my T-amp with full discrete components (without a single SMD on board) is sounding pretty close to a valve (tube) amplifier not only in its smoothness, warmth and micro dynamics but also with its timing gotten right, lots of rhythmic bounce and sufficient bass and bass weight we could possibly seek from an amplifier.

And I believe I am certainly not the only guy to have raved that the T-amp sounds pretty close to a valve amp as many others have actually indicated their preference of T-amps over their other exotic valve amplifiers they also owned. Hmmm… life is certainly good to me. biggrin.gif


This post has been edited by Y.C.: Dec 11 2008, 11:32 PM
jazzy939
post Dec 11 2008, 07:47 PM

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:thumb:
Great update Y.C.! Just when we thought things could not be any better! tongue.gif
Life is certainly good! wink.gif

kww
post Dec 12 2008, 11:40 AM

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Hi YC, thank for your components. I spend the whole day on t-amp yesterday. Check my old equipment, check the discrete components from you and my left over from other project that done years ago, went to JP to get the balance that i don't have. Putting it piece by piece until 2am this morning. I just test for functionality but not yet connect to my bookshelf speaker yet. No smoke come out, got sound to testing speaker. Tomorrow will find time to do more testing. I do hear hissing after the upgrade, will test further.

Here is some pictures.

This post has been edited by kww: Dec 12 2008, 11:41 AM


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image Attached Image Attached Image Attached Image
jazzy939
post Dec 12 2008, 12:01 PM

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kww,
pretty good work there! thumbup.gif .. although it looks like those components are like after being hit by a tsunami! laugh.gif It is not the looks that matters, its the sound!

Do report after your listening session! wink.gif
March05
post Dec 12 2008, 12:39 PM

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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Dec 12 2008, 12:01 PM)
.. although it looks like those components are like after being hit by a tsunami! laugh.gif
*
You T-amp modders are really scary. blink.gif

I'm not putting my T-amp through that kind of surgery!!!!!! sweat.gif
bsl555
post Dec 12 2008, 12:42 PM

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QUOTE(March05 @ Dec 12 2008, 12:39 PM)
You T-amp modders are really scary.  blink.gif
I'm not putting my T-amp through that kind of surgery!!!!!! sweat.gif
*
Heh!.. their boards cost only 5 meals. Its perhaps busting it up won't hurt the pocket to acquire another one for another hack session. biggrin.gif
kww
post Dec 12 2008, 01:06 PM

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Actually there is an add on board holding the C14, 15 18 and 19. That is really messy wire at the back of it as I am too tired to cut to correct length and twist it.

I think is fun to work on and give some satisfaction. At least I don't see white smoke or dead.

jazzy, thanks for the 'tsunami' complement, i really don't know how to put so many components with limited space. I saw most of you put it straight but i think it is harder to work on as compare to tilt it a bit. that give more space for my big 60W soldering iron and my clumsy hand.

bsl is right, it is cheap to work on and try out. I listen for a week before modding, I think this little thing is quite clean and accurate. If it is good i will order another and get better components for it. Another hell of the day.
March05
post Dec 12 2008, 01:06 PM

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QUOTE(bsl555 @ Dec 12 2008, 12:42 PM)
...won't hurt the pocket to acquire another one for another hack session.  biggrin.gif
*
For me, it's not the money.....I just can't stand the sight of too much molten solder. blush.gif
jazzy939
post Dec 12 2008, 02:09 PM

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kww,
I meant it when I said it was 'good work'! I did on mine, I know how hard it is as we're working on a small board meant for SMDs! Must have an articulate and rock steady hands and nerve to do it! biggrin.gif

My hat to you as you're using a HUGE 60 watter! thumbup.gif

The real 'tsunami' is more on the SQ later on! laugh.gif Once you heard this version, you'll never look back..

Welcome to the club! rclxms.gif


QUOTE(kww @ Dec 12 2008, 01:06 PM)
Actually there is an add on board holding the C14, 15 18 and 19. That is really messy wire at the back of it as I am too tired to cut to correct length and twist it.

I think is fun to work on and give some satisfaction. At least I don't see white smoke or dead.

jazzy, thanks for the 'tsunami' complement, i really don't know how to put so many components with limited space. I saw most of you put it straight but i think it is harder to work on as compare to tilt it a bit. that give more space for my big 60W soldering iron and my clumsy hand.

bsl is right, it is cheap to work on and try out. I listen for a week before modding, I think this little thing is quite clean and accurate. If it is good i will order another and get better components for it. Another hell of the day.
*
paskal
post Dec 13 2008, 12:19 AM

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my germany made Ansmann travel adapter decided that 12V isn't enough and gave 30V to the board.
and in the process burned 2 of my boards. cry.gif

it's branded for god's sake. wtf
jazzy939
post Dec 13 2008, 12:27 AM

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paskal,
Your travel adapter 'decides' 30V? How come? A converter you mean?
paskal
post Dec 13 2008, 03:11 AM

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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Dec 13 2008, 12:27 AM)
paskal,
Your travel adapter 'decides' 30V? How come? A converter you mean?
*
yeah. i've told (and set) it to 12V. and then it decides to gave out 30V instead. doh.gif
jazzy939
post Dec 13 2008, 10:01 AM

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Kesian... you know what to do with 'disobedient' adapter, right? tongue.gif laugh.gif
So, you got your T-Amp running proper, now?
paskal
post Dec 13 2008, 12:21 PM

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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Dec 13 2008, 10:01 AM)
Kesian... you know what to do with 'disobedient' adapter, right? tongue.gif laugh.gif
So, you got your T-Amp running proper, now?
*
before this, yes. i got one board under extensive mod process so that one can't be use currently. and that one is the only working chip i've got with me right now.
so now i don't have any working setup. it burned 2 of my boards demmit. that adapter is now history.

any of you guys would be kind enough to get me one of those Meanwell and ship it to me? would be much appreciated..
March05
post Dec 13 2008, 03:14 PM

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QUOTE(paskal @ Dec 13 2008, 12:21 PM)
it burned 2 of my boards demmit. that adapter is now history.
*
paskal, how badly burnt is it?

Pardon my lack of electronics knowhow...but I see this smd capacitor C5 in the 12v+ circuit leading to the TA2022 ic. Wouldn't this burn out first?
ijan
post Dec 13 2008, 10:42 PM

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no, caps dun burn. they die smile.gif But it wont protect crap.

Just wired my T-AMP after...ntah ho wmany months, finally baru mau on since im fcuked up with GC not having proper psu n casing..so there lie my naked tamp with all the necessary mods i deem necessary only, non-superlative.

Impression, compared to LM4766 sub-par GainClone that i haf been using, the T-AMP has SIGNIFICANTLY more detail, leaner mids, however less soundstage and low-end extension, its what i would consider BRIGHT. Not really my cup of tea..yet..temporary use till i get my crappy GC online, then ill do sumthing about the T-AMP.

But hell, ITS FREAKING SMALL!!
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post Dec 13 2008, 10:45 PM

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i burned one of my board as well while trying to connect it to car battery.

bloody burn chip smells like buncho watercolour
ijan
post Dec 13 2008, 10:50 PM

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u guys haf to be extra careful, most power supply/adaptor are not up to standard voltage, they haf the no-load voltage output and full load voltage output, sum manufacturer will state no-load voltage out, sum will say full-load voltage out. since the tamp use that lil power, it usually use almost to no-load full voltage, unregulated adaptor will full blow ~15V eventhough rated at 12V. car battery, high capacity, full charge out ~14++V of voltage with extremely high output current.

If u read technical info on the t-amp, max in voltage is strictly 13.2V, so u guys go over the border liao. Funny thing sumthing as advance as the T-AMP with digital filter dun haf over-volt protection...

Neways, seems like my current hiFi setup cannot even see the smoke on my headphone setup...
Y.C.
post Dec 15 2008, 09:53 AM

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kww, from the pictures your T-amp mod looks fine to me. How is the sound now? Share with us?

paskal and Monkey King, my regrets that your T-amp boards are ruined by the charger/car battery.

kww
post Dec 15 2008, 05:43 PM

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There is a lot of noise, i think is because of long connection for C14, 15 18 and 19. I check all the connection, is all secure. In the process to relocate the cap i broke my desoldering sucker. Ordering one in farnell now, don't trust jalan pasar thing any more.
Y.C.
post Dec 16 2008, 09:15 AM

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QUOTE(kww @ Dec 15 2008, 05:43 PM)
There is a lot of noise.........
*


You mentioned hissing sound earlier on. If the level of noise is low, these should go away after running in. The level of noise should not be too high. I only know as a general rule legs of discrete components should be kept as short as possible but have never personally heard the noise induced as a result of long ones. Perhaps other forumers who have experience in this area may like to comment further.

TSxtorm
post Dec 16 2008, 01:11 PM

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wow nice update Y.C.
i have yet to start with the final stage...haha, lazy nowadays...

ijan , let the t-amp run in for a while

monkey king, mine was runing fine with car battery for months, but i did connect a few big cap near the supply of t-amp just to smoothen the voltage.
paskal
post Dec 18 2008, 01:52 AM

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QUOTE(March05 @ Dec 13 2008, 03:14 PM)
paskal, how badly burnt is it?

Pardon my lack of electronics knowhow...but I see this smd capacitor C5 in the 12v+ circuit leading to the TA2022 ic. Wouldn't this burn out first?
*

it's not burned or anything. doesn't even heat up or end up in smokes. the chip and circuit looks absolutely fine without any burn marks.

the only thing is, the chips are now shorted to ground. the input have a connection to B+ and GND. rclxub.gif both boards exhibit the same simptom. considered dead.
jazzy939
post Dec 18 2008, 06:03 AM

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Can't you 'unshorted' it? hmm.gif
Just wondering, how does that happened?

This post has been edited by jazzy939: Dec 20 2008, 07:52 PM
kww
post Dec 20 2008, 07:38 PM

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Finally manage to find the problem, it is because of the loosen connections of C22 and 27. In the process to secure it, i accidentally pull off the whole base (I think because of reheating multiple times). I need to glue it back on to secure it in the original location even the base is out, and use jumper wire to connect to where is suppose to be. Finally it is singing again on my test speaker, sound a bit harsh, clinical and still a bit of hissing. Will try to let it burn in for some time and see how it is.

paskal, in my opinion, this little thing is quite hardy, I sent a clipping signal to it and C8 smoke and the heat melt the solder lead! I solder it back and it still sing. I think the IC will burn only if you connect the power supply wrong.


Y.C.
post Dec 21 2008, 02:04 AM

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kww, that is the spirit of diy audio, keep it up. thumbup.gif

I am happy for you that your T-amp starts to sing finally; do allow it some time to run in.

kww
post Dec 21 2008, 07:21 PM

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next is to find a casing that can fit it, right now too many wire hanging around and the components are all expose unsecure.
cyl1000
post Dec 24 2008, 08:50 AM

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ah..finally got my Alps Blue Velve pot..do a quick soldering and tested for 30mins..the sound is much more better than JP pots. I have bought my casing and will do some drilling after Christmas and then send to repaint biggrin.gif
TSxtorm
post Dec 25 2008, 12:03 PM

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few holidays ahead smile.gif

gona get the tannoy up and running with t-amp for my pc smile.gif

picture as bellow biggrin.gif


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bsl555
post Dec 25 2008, 12:26 PM

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QUOTE(cyl1000 @ Dec 24 2008, 08:50 AM)
ah..finally got my Alps Blue Velve pot..do a quick soldering and tested for 30mins..the sound is much more better than JP pots.
*
Oh really?.. I've seen many commercial amps with JP type pots and they're just as great sounding. Its quite true that Alps blue have a more accurate (because its logarithmic type) and heavier feel that makes one think the sound has improved a lot. I too can fall for that. smile.gif
I sometimes wonder who is Alps biggest consumer of this item as I've only seen this very very rarely in commercial amps. blink.gif

This post has been edited by bsl555: Dec 25 2008, 12:34 PM
cyl1000
post Dec 25 2008, 02:21 PM

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QUOTE(bsl555 @ Dec 25 2008, 12:26 PM)
Oh really?.. I've seen many commercial amps with JP type pots and they're just as great sounding. Its quite true that Alps blue have a more accurate (because its logarithmic type) and heavier feel that makes one think the sound has improved a lot. I too can fall for that.  smile.gif
I sometimes wonder who is Alps biggest consumer of this item as I've only seen this very very rarely in commercial amps.  blink.gif
*
The Alps pots is not that heavy as compare to JP pots but it sure make a difference compare to those cheaper pots. I have an 10yrs++ Aura that is using Alps pots and it have never give me problem biggrin.gif
jazzy939
post Dec 25 2008, 07:41 PM

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The JP pots that I am using with the T-Amps and a few other amps sounds great.. will not change them for the time being biggrin.gif
TSxtorm
post Dec 27 2008, 12:45 AM

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my unit is runing, my ear is so posion by multimedia speaker i cant get use to the highs at 1st,i hear no highs biggrin.gif especialy im using a fullrange now....

i think t-amp will suits full range nicely as full range tents to loose out abit on the highs....

This post has been edited by xtorm: Dec 27 2008, 12:45 AM
jazzy939
post Dec 27 2008, 12:53 AM

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xtorm,
its a matter of preferences and how your ears have been 'conditioned'... prolong your listening and you'll be ok soon! biggrin.gif

*- this thread is almost 'dead' ler.. hehehe.. Happy Holidays T-Amp fans! biggrin.gif

This post has been edited by jazzy939: Dec 27 2008, 12:53 AM
TSxtorm
post Dec 27 2008, 01:06 AM

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im getting use to it edi biggrin.gif

listening to kiki dee concert which i copy from pcworks...........nice!!!


jazzy939
post Dec 27 2008, 01:58 AM

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kiki dee?!! thats a good one! thumbup.gif
cyl1000
post Dec 27 2008, 08:40 AM

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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Dec 25 2008, 07:41 PM)
The JP pots that I am using with the T-Amps and a few other amps sounds great.. will not change them for the time being biggrin.gif
*
I think its just a matter of pure luck as the pots I've bought from JP is always giving problem. I hate to buy spares as I've a bunch of other components left in the drawer and not being used. And for sure I will not bring a DMM to JP to buy parts tongue.gif

Since the T-amp is up and running now, its time to work on the casing..still thinking for the volume knob to use...
March05
post Dec 27 2008, 11:34 AM

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QUOTE(cyl1000 @ Dec 27 2008, 08:40 AM)
its time to work on the casing..
*
The casing seems to be the most difficult to source compared to all the other modding components...and I'm still stuck here. I absolutely refuse to start work on my TA2022 without acquiring a nice looking casing first. tongue.gif
cyl1000
post Dec 27 2008, 12:58 PM

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QUOTE(March05 @ Dec 27 2008, 11:34 AM)
The casing seems to be the most difficult to source compared to all the other modding components...and I'm still stuck here. I absolutely refuse to start work on my TA2022 without acquiring a nice looking casing first.  tongue.gif
*
I just got 1 of those alum casing from Nixie and plan to send it to be respray..maybe like Ipod bone white tongue.gif
ar188
post Dec 27 2008, 01:41 PM

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QUOTE(cyl1000 @ Dec 27 2008, 12:58 PM)
I just got 1 of those alum casing from Nixie and plan to send it to be respray..maybe like Ipod bone white  tongue.gif
*
nice, post the pic after respray.. gloss pearl white.. yummy..

or you can go anodized black... with 3mm diffused blue LED "on" indicator.


Added on December 27, 2008, 2:01 pm
QUOTE(kww @ Dec 12 2008, 11:40 AM)
Hi YC, thank for your components. I spend the whole day on t-amp yesterday. Check my old equipment, check the discrete components from you and my left over from other project that done years ago, went to JP to get the balance that i don't have. Putting it piece by piece until 2am this morning. I just test for functionality but not yet connect to my bookshelf speaker yet. No smoke come out, got sound to testing speaker. Tomorrow will find time to do more testing. I do hear hissing after the upgrade, will test further.

Here is some pictures.
wow, nice "surgical" job putting radial film caps into SMD 0805 solder pads..


This post has been edited by ar188: Dec 27 2008, 02:01 PM
March05
post Dec 27 2008, 02:16 PM

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QUOTE(cyl1000 @ Dec 27 2008, 12:58 PM)
I just got 1 of those alum casing from Nixie...
*
Which one did you get? I went there early last month to get one, but they had sold out the RM28 one. I picked up the almost all the other parts....RCA sockets & the binding posts (I got really slimfit ones! brows.gif ), white and blue LEDs, the famous jp volume pots - they have plenty of both linear and log types, you have to `debate' with them on the use of these before buying or they'll just give you the linear ones.

So I only need to order the Vishay/ERO MKT 1813 2.2uF 63V caps from Farnell, and it's just the casing that's missing.

cyl1000, please show us the pics after the respraying. I might copy you. brows.gif


ar188
post Dec 27 2008, 02:30 PM

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yes usually pots have A or B curves, linear, log etc. even JP ones, not limited to alps/nidec etc..

also another parameter for choosing pots is the size, like 12mm ,16mm and 20, 24mm etc that controls the power handling..
TSxtorm
post Dec 28 2008, 02:47 PM

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my setup update
hmm sound certainly improve with some support on the speaker...better low end extension, seems better soundstage too, more highs too....amazing wat simple things can do


vocal is really thick and nice, but not for action movie tho...lags ommm....haha


cyl1000
post Dec 28 2008, 06:21 PM

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QUOTE(ar188 @ Dec 27 2008, 01:41 PM)
nice, post the pic after respray.. gloss pearl white.. yummy..

or you can go anodized black... with 3mm diffused blue LED "on" indicator.
Thought of anodized but hard to get a good job done..send to a shop at sunway before but they just did a "chin chai" job. As for power LED, thought of getting a circular LED light pipe to put around the volume knob. So far, no luck yet from Farnell, RS or Futurlec . I will have to get these parts ready before I can proceed to drill and then spray.


Added on December 28, 2008, 6:26 pm
QUOTE(March05 @ Dec 27 2008, 02:16 PM)
Which one did you get? I went there early last month to get one, but they had sold out the RM28 one. I picked up the almost all the other parts....RCA sockets & the binding posts (I got really slimfit ones!  brows.gif ), white and blue LEDs, the famous jp volume pots - they have plenty of both linear and log types, you have to `debate' with them on the use of these before buying or they'll just give you the linear ones.

So I only need to order the Vishay/ERO MKT 1813 2.2uF 63V caps from Farnell, and it's just the casing that's missing.

cyl1000, please show us the pics after the respraying. I might copy you.  brows.gif
*
I got the big casing measuring 253x167x87. Hmm...what do you mean by the slimfit RCA n binding post? Have you tested the pots? Which shop you buy from? One of my friend JP pot is failing sweat.gif Have to help him get a temporary pot.

BTW, anyone can help to source for a circular LED light pipe???

This post has been edited by cyl1000: Dec 28 2008, 06:26 PM
TSxtorm
post Dec 28 2008, 07:03 PM

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hey cyl1000 got my pm?

collect when you come to my office again?
ar188
post Dec 28 2008, 07:09 PM

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QUOTE(cyl1000 @ Dec 28 2008, 06:21 PM)
Thought of anodized but hard to get a good job done..send to a shop at sunway before but they just did a "chin chai" job. As for power LED, thought of getting a circular LED light pipe to put around the volume knob. So far, no luck yet from Farnell, RS or Futurlec . I will have to get these parts ready before I can proceed to drill and then spray.


Added on December 28, 2008, 6:26 pm
I got the big casing measuring 253x167x87. Hmm...what do you mean by the slimfit RCA n binding post? Have you tested the pots? Which shop you buy from? One of my friend JP pot is failing  sweat.gif Have to help him get a temporary pot.

BTW, anyone can help to source for a circular LED light pipe???
*
how does your circular LED light pipe look like?

you need LED or not? I got lots.. SMD white, blue etc..
cyl1000
post Dec 29 2008, 12:50 AM

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QUOTE(xtorm @ Dec 28 2008, 07:03 PM)
hey cyl1000 got my pm?

collect when you come to my office again?
*
Sorry..forget to reply tongue.gif I will go to your office on Tuesday/Wednesday bout noon..maybe collect from you then..thanks.
cyl1000
post Dec 29 2008, 12:57 AM

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QUOTE(ar188 @ Dec 28 2008, 07:09 PM)
how does your circular LED light pipe look like?

you need LED or not? I got lots.. SMD white, blue etc..
*
If you look at those midi hifi, some have lights illuminating form the volume knob (Y.C. JVC micro have it). I have attached a picture from another thread..looks something like this.


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ar188
post Dec 29 2008, 02:00 AM

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QUOTE(cyl1000 @ Dec 29 2008, 12:57 AM)
If you look at those midi hifi, some have lights illuminating form the volume knob (Y.C. JVC micro have it). I have attached a picture from another thread..looks something like this.
*
thanks for the pic, maybe the inner knob holder (to clip and hold to the pot's fluted or geared shaft) is made of transparent plastic material? and can be used to act as "light guide"
kww
post Dec 29 2008, 02:31 AM

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I am also looking for a casing for my t-amp with extended board plus power supply module. I think that will be as big as an astro box. I got a spoiled VCR player some where in the store room, maybe that will ok to use.

After 10 hour of listening, the t-amp smoothen up a lot, hissing sound also less. I saw somewhere mentioned new capacitors need 160hours to run in. That sound really a lot for normal listening.
TSxtorm
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kww ill meet u up on wedsnesday same place smile.gif ss2 starbucks

t-amp need 100hours of burn in time according to alot of sifu.

ok cyl1000, see you then, hopefully im in the office.

loving my fullrange + tamp...hehe


Added on December 29, 2008, 9:13 pmjust compare mundurf and octave 2.2uf 100v dc, but mundurf boad is with elna audio grade 1000uf chip supply cap

mundurf better, wider and more body to it, more bass extension too... smile.gif

This post has been edited by xtorm: Dec 29 2008, 09:16 PM
cyl1000
post Dec 30 2008, 08:48 AM

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QUOTE(ar188 @ Dec 29 2008, 02:00 AM)
thanks for the pic, maybe the inner knob holder (to clip and hold to the pot's fluted or geared shaft) is made of transparent plastic material? and can be used to act as "light guide"
*
I can't wait and have started on the casing. I have drill most of the holes for the RCA, volume control, speaker binding..for power switch, thinking to use round (push in to ON) or rectangular (push up/down). For the volume knob with LED, I've got a big knob from an old donor amp (Denon) and most probably drill 4 holes in casing but hide inside the knob. Use VR to adjust the LED brightness and hopefully will get the effect.
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QUOTE(cyl1000 @ Dec 30 2008, 08:48 AM)
I can't wait and have started on the casing. I have drill most of the holes for the RCA, volume control, speaker binding..for power switch, thinking to use round (push in to ON) or rectangular (push up/down). For the volume knob with LED, I've got a big knob from an old donor amp (Denon) and most probably drill 4 holes in casing but hide inside the knob. Use VR to adjust the LED brightness and hopefully will get the effect.
*
wah use VR to adjust the LED brightness? so when you turn it will have variable brightness?
jazzy939
post Dec 30 2008, 11:58 AM

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VR as in voltage regulator?
3V is what u need depending in LED types and the brightness that u want...
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post Dec 30 2008, 02:22 PM

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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Dec 30 2008, 11:58 AM)
VR as in voltage regulator?
3V is what u need depending in LED types and the brightness that u want...
*
variable resistor aka Pot kua.. but not sure it'll work cos LEDs are current source devices ...


jazzy939
post Dec 30 2008, 02:27 PM

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pot would not work proper.. tongue.gif
I have tried that! biggrin.gif
a variable voltage regulator, may be .. a 0 to 5V would be 'workable'.. with the necessary current limiting resistor, that is!

This post has been edited by jazzy939: Dec 30 2008, 02:29 PM
cyl1000
post Dec 30 2008, 06:25 PM

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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Dec 30 2008, 11:58 AM)
VR as in voltage regulator?
3V is what u need depending in LED types and the brightness that u want...
*
hee...hee...I'd not want to construct a voltage regulator for a few LEDs tongue.gif I will just use a variable resistor to do the job.. might not be easy to get the desired brightness but I think will be sufficient...


Added on December 30, 2008, 6:28 pm
QUOTE(ar188 @ Dec 30 2008, 02:22 PM)
variable resistor aka Pot kua..  but not sure it'll work cos LEDs are current source devices ...
*
Jazzy is right that it will not work proper..just for me it is "proper" enough for my application..

Just got the Tocos pot (VR tongue.gif ) from one of the bulk order...damn..these pots are really mini..


Added on December 30, 2008, 6:32 pm
QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Dec 30 2008, 02:27 PM)
pot would not work proper.. tongue.gif
I have tried that! biggrin.gif
a variable voltage regulator, may be ..  a 0 to 5V would be 'workable'.. with the necessary current limiting resistor, that is!
*
Took out some pots from an old Denon amp with 250K and I think will be sufficient to dim the LEDs. Got some big transformers with shielding but the voltage is too high for t-amp..

This post has been edited by cyl1000: Dec 30 2008, 06:32 PM
jazzy939
post Dec 30 2008, 06:35 PM

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I have installed a white small LED inside/underneath the knob of my volume/pot knob to get a similar effect.. nothing to see in the day but looks 'cool' at night.. wink.gif
After much experimenting I found a 25K series resistor to be suitable with an input voltage of 9V. 20K is already too bright! biggrin.gif
My preamp is a 9V battery powered, lass for a month for daily usage.. not too bad.

Oh, the preamp is driving my T-Amp power amp. wink.gif

This post has been edited by jazzy939: Dec 30 2008, 06:36 PM
jazzy939
post Dec 30 2008, 06:38 PM

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How high is 'too high'? hmm.gif


QUOTE(cyl1000 @ Dec 30 2008, 06:25 PM)
....
Took out some pots from an old Denon amp with 250K and I think will be sufficient to dim the LEDs. Got some big transformers with shielding but the voltage is too high for t-amp..
*
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post Dec 30 2008, 06:49 PM

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if you fellas want blue and white LEDs let me know.. give you free la.. got so much in the drawers...
cyl1000
post Dec 30 2008, 06:51 PM

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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Dec 30 2008, 06:38 PM)
How high is 'too high'? hmm.gif
*
Actually I cannibalize a Denon and Onkyo amp yesterday and got some parts out to use. I have change one of the pot for my friend's ailling JP pot. These pot still work well and I'm confident that I wont encounter same problem as JP pot (maybe I'm in bad luck). As for the transformer, it looks big and "solid" and would be a waste to throw it away..the smoothing caps is rated 50V, so I think the transformer secondary voltage should be around 40V?? Lets see if there is any use for other future projects or just keep in store...
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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Dec 30 2008, 11:58 AM)
VR as in voltage regulator?
3V is what u need depending in LED types and the brightness that u want...
*
3V and above for white and blue and pure greens, InGAN dice

for red and amber/yellow, 2V-2.2V should be more than enuf.. or else poooofff....
jazzy939
post Dec 30 2008, 06:53 PM

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ar188,
I need some! Some blue ones would be nice! This is for my 'new' amp.. wink.gif

QUOTE(ar188 @ Dec 30 2008, 06:49 PM)
if you fellas want blue and white LEDs let me know.. give you free la.. got so much in the drawers...
*

Added on December 30, 2008, 6:56 pmcyl1000,
a 40V tranny would be a good candidate to power a GainClone! wink.gif


This post has been edited by jazzy939: Dec 30 2008, 06:57 PM
kww
post Dec 30 2008, 06:57 PM

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xtorm, ya see you there, give me a sms when you are leaving, i can be there in 15min.

I want to build a few RCA and phono cable, i only need it in short length, anyone know where can i get belden or canare or mogami? Or you have some to let go? i only need around 3m of each.
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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Dec 30 2008, 06:53PM)
ar188,
I need some! Some blue ones would be nice! This is for my 'new' amp.. wink.gif

Added on December 30, 2008, 6:56 pmcyl1000,
a 40V tranny would be a good candidate to power a GainClone! wink.gif
*
sure.. 5mm 3mm SMD 1206 or 0805s? biggrin.gif

can demo your amp ar? I bring my AE near-field bookshelfs to test test.. hehe!
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post Dec 30 2008, 07:00 PM

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kww,
I have seen belden and canare in JP but not mogami. I need to make a few interconnects too.. time to drop by JP tongue.gif
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post Dec 30 2008, 07:03 PM

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ar188,
the 3mm would be sufficient.
Sure, can drop in anytime (I am on leave) as long as you bring over those LEDs! laugh.gif

AE bookshelves.. that would an interesting speaker to 'test'... wink.gif

QUOTE(ar188 @ Dec 30 2008, 06:58 PM)
sure.. 5mm 3mm SMD 1206 or 0805s?  biggrin.gif

can demo your amp ar? I bring my AE near-field bookshelfs to test test.. hehe!
*
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post Dec 30 2008, 07:06 PM

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jazzy, which shop? I seen some belden 85xx series speaker cable before 2 yr ago but not RCA or phono cable.
ar188
post Dec 30 2008, 07:09 PM

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jazzy, how big are your JP pots, the diameter of the back cover. 12mm 16mm etc? see if got any surplus 50k Log scale ones for you..
cyl1000
post Dec 30 2008, 07:12 PM

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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Dec 30 2008, 06:53 PM)
ar188,
I need some! Some blue ones would be nice! This is for my 'new' amp.. wink.gif

Added on December 30, 2008, 6:56 pmcyl1000,
a 40V tranny would be a good candidate to power a GainClone! wink.gif
*
Will have to wait till I finish with the t-amp casing and also another t-amp with discrete... tongue.gif


Added on December 30, 2008, 7:14 pm
QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Dec 30 2008, 07:00 PM)
kww,
I have seen belden and canare in JP but not mogami. I need to make a few interconnects too.. time to drop by JP tongue.gif
*
I've seen some China Belden too tongue.gif

This post has been edited by cyl1000: Dec 30 2008, 07:14 PM
jazzy939
post Dec 30 2008, 07:15 PM

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Currently I have 2x 50K pots. They're 16mm ones.. don't know if they're linear or log.. tongue.gif Will check later...

QUOTE(ar188 @ Dec 30 2008, 07:09 PM)
jazzy, how big are your JP pots, the diameter of the back cover. 12mm 16mm etc? see if got any surplus 50k Log scale ones for you..
*

Added on December 30, 2008, 7:17 pmkww,
I can't really remember where.. hehe.. I bought my Canare from the shop right at the end of JP, LHS.

This post has been edited by jazzy939: Dec 30 2008, 07:17 PM
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post Dec 30 2008, 07:27 PM

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Jazzy, do you remember how much and model? I heard from friend L2T2S is good. But i never audit before. Any opinion?
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post Dec 30 2008, 07:32 PM

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kmm,
off hand can't remember exactly,sorry dude. They're about RM9 per meter.
grandspy
post Jan 2 2009, 02:49 AM

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Can a computer PSU be used to power up the T-amp?
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yes, as long as 12v dc smile.gif
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post Jan 3 2009, 12:06 AM

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Definitely can!
My Jr. is using a spare computer's PSU to power his T-Amp... tongue.gif

QUOTE(grandspy @ Jan 2 2009, 02:49 AM)
Can a computer PSU be used to power up the T-amp?
*
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post Jan 3 2009, 12:18 AM

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Ok then. I have two comp. PSU. If anybody wants to have them, let me know. I think they're rated 400 watts. Else, I'll just throw them away. Err.. they're faulty though tongue.gif
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post Jan 3 2009, 12:30 AM

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grandspy,
the Meanwell SMPS looks better and 'cuter' wink.gif with adjustable voltage! biggrin.gif
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post Jan 3 2009, 12:55 AM

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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Jan 3 2009, 12:30 AM)
grandspy,
the Meanwell SMPS looks better and 'cuter' wink.gif with adjustable voltage! biggrin.gif
*
definitely cuter..and available in wide single voltage range and formfactors...
besides no need 350W to 500W monster computer PSUs with fans and dangling cables...
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post Jan 3 2009, 01:08 AM

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thats right ar188! computer's psu is real messy! tongue.gif
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post Jan 3 2009, 01:40 AM

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Actually a well designed PC PSU can be used, subject to some mods, refinements and conditions.
1. Reputable brand thats not with missing parts inside (EMI filter components)
2. Remove parts of the circuit that output other misc voltages that you'd not use. You've to know the PSU circuitry of course and what to remove.
3. Change the DC output cables to a pair of thicker gauge ones.
4. Beef up the DC output circuitry with better parts and values.
There's other things you can do, afterall if the PSU is already FOC, its all to your savings.
I'm confident yoru FOC PSU after modding can likely outperform the Meanwell PSU, except the PC PSU is more bulky and there's a fan too.
Your choice. smile.gif


This post has been edited by bsl555: Jan 3 2009, 01:42 AM
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post Jan 3 2009, 01:49 AM

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too much work la bsl tongue.gif
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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Jan 3 2009, 01:49 AM)
too much work la bsl tongue.gif
*
Heh!.. need I say if you're always on the look out for the fun factor, nothing is really too much work. smile.gif
Anyone got a BUSTED but BRANDED Coolermaster, Antec, Corsair 500W PSU to give me?.. I'll gladly accept it and of course I mod it and its for MY keeps??... brows.gif brows.gif

This post has been edited by bsl555: Jan 3 2009, 01:56 AM
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post Jan 3 2009, 01:59 AM

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Hehe.. very true.. tongue.gif
Too bad I do not have any.. just 'generic' ones that are busted.. those branded ones really last a long time! biggrin.gif
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QUOTE(bsl555 @ Jan 3 2009, 01:55 AM)
Anyone got a BUSTED but BRANDED Coolermaster, Antec, Corsair 500W PSU to give me?.. I'll gladly accept it and of course I mod it and its for MY keeps??... brows.gif  brows.gif
*

bsl, you want 'em? One is 535W and the one is 460W
user posted image[/URL]

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post Jan 3 2009, 11:23 PM

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Enermax. Are they 'good'? hmm.gif
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post Jan 3 2009, 11:25 PM

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QUOTE(grandspy @ Jan 3 2009, 11:20 PM)
bsl, you want 'em? One is 535W and the one is 460W
*
Can! can!. I hope it won't be a daunting task to revive them first.
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post Jan 3 2009, 11:31 PM

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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Jan 3 2009, 11:23 PM)
Enermax. Are they 'good'? hmm.gif
*
probably "decent"..taiwan/china made. not same level as the american brands (which is also made in china) due to the BOM.
I believe BSL wants the PSU to be equipped with branded subcomponents used inside..
of which the BOM (bill of materials) would be made up of branded manufacturers..
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post Jan 3 2009, 11:35 PM

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'additional' work to replace those also by bsl... tongue.gif
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post Jan 3 2009, 11:37 PM

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Nice, Enermax is good but their fan is noisy. My friend use FMA-II and its bloody noisy. I use cheap PSU to power my T-amp but because the power usage is low, I run it totally passive
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QUOTE(ar188 @ Jan 3 2009, 11:31 PM)
I believe BSL wants the PSU to be equipped with branded subcomponents used inside..
of which the  BOM (bill of materials) would be made up of branded manufacturers..
*
PSU's are mostly run of the mill stuff and perhaps middle quality at best. Just that the current output is adequate for current PC requirements. You're not going to find usable resistors, IC's, transistors or the capacitors which are mostly sourced from China and brands you've not heard of. They're built to borderline architecture and will fail in good time.
You want really good parts from PC related peripherals, gut your CRT monitor, especially the older models.

This post has been edited by bsl555: Jan 3 2009, 11:40 PM
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post Jan 4 2009, 12:28 AM

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QUOTE(bsl555 @ Jan 3 2009, 11:37 PM)
PSU's are mostly run of the mill stuff and perhaps middle quality at best. Just that the current output is adequate for current PC requirements. You're not going to find usable resistors, IC's, transistors or the capacitors which are mostly sourced from China and brands you've not heard of. They're built to borderline architecture and will fail in good time.
You want really good parts from PC related peripherals, gut your CRT monitor, especially the older models.
*
I was just stressing that from US branded PSU or UPS (like APC brand for example) at least they are using things Evox, AVX, Nichicon or Dale vishay i.e branded (doesn't mean their MIL spec parts range or audiophile grade).. whereas in normal taiwan/china brands PSU, most likely using local china grade components rather than export grade.


as for me, if I need good parts I get them for free.. no need to salvage,. unless it's EOL. (end of life)
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post Jan 4 2009, 12:34 AM

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ar188,
Not all of us are lucky to be in your position! wink.gif
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post Jan 4 2009, 12:46 AM

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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Jan 4 2009, 12:34 AM)
ar188,
Not all of us are lucky to be in your position! wink.gif
*
soon you will be.. (getting them for free also) tongue.gif

"one good deed deserves another" one samaritan said to me earlier today.. rolleyes.gif smile.gif cheers!

so will try to share some of the JP style pots and Large Ecaps with you guys here.... (at least these I know they will sure give few extra pcs free when I load in my main orders hehe)

jazzy, will PM you E-cap datasheet for you to choose.
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post Jan 4 2009, 12:50 AM

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hehehe.. thanks ar188! biggrin.gif

hokay.. will be waiting for that!

just wondering when you're gonna start to diy? wink.gif
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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Jan 4 2009, 12:50 AM)
hehehe.. thanks ar188! biggrin.gif

hokay.. will be waiting for that!

just wondering when you're gonna start to diy? wink.gif
*
wei.. liddat called cheating..

wah, if every component in the project, I get free 5-10pcs liddat sure got surplus to make a few free boards.?? biggrin.gif


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cheating? where? : laugh.gif

free boards? possible! biggrin.gif

QUOTE(ar188 @ Jan 4 2009, 12:56 AM)
wei.. liddat called cheating..

wah, if every component in the project, I get free 5-10pcs liddat sure got surplus to make a few free boards.?? biggrin.gif
*
ar188
post Jan 4 2009, 01:03 AM

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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Jan 4 2009, 12:58 AM)
cheating? where? : laugh.gif

free boards? possible! biggrin.gif
*
surely I may need at most 2 units if running mono blocks.. the excess 3-5pcs excess components leh?
BTW, I found the "aunty" to solder my future boards.. I met the person this evening.. thumbup.gif

This post has been edited by ar188: Jan 4 2009, 01:05 AM
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post Jan 4 2009, 01:56 AM

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good for you! aunty have own soldering iron/gun? wink.gif

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post Jan 4 2009, 02:16 AM

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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Jan 4 2009, 01:56 AM)
good for you! aunty have own soldering iron/gun? wink.gif
*
should have kua, hakko brand I think.

BTW I met the so called "aunty" around 5+pm today to pass some LEDs.. biggrin.gif


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post Jan 4 2009, 06:47 PM

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Wonder what the 'aunty' do with those LEDs hmm.gif tongue.gif


QUOTE(ar188 @ Jan 4 2009, 02:16 AM)
should have kua, hakko brand I think.

BTW I met the so called "aunty" around 5+pm today to pass some LEDs..  biggrin.gif
*
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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Jan 4 2009, 06:47 PM)
Wonder what the 'aunty' do with those LEDs hmm.gif  tongue.gif
*
Line it all up on a thick black spectacles in flashing mode, raise eyebrows and blink the eyes at you??? tongue.gif
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post Jan 4 2009, 11:35 PM

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ar188, can introduce the aunty to me?

I have try a few type of 12v power supply for my t-amp. My own findings:
- Phone charger, wallwart (adjustable), laptop power supply (about 300-450mA) - when play louder it will like switch on and off as not enough power.
- PC PSU - When play loud and continue hard hit bass, it will be softer and softer like not enough breath.

Now settle with a cannibalized 12V 3A power supply from an alarm unit. I think using a 12V car battery will further improve it performance (think of 500A reserve from the battery) but this kind battery not safe to use indoor as it release harmful gas when it charge and recharge. Maybe someone that use t-amp in car can give some comment.
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post Jan 4 2009, 11:38 PM

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kww,
why not use a sealed/maintenance free battery? I know, its expensive! laugh.gif
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post Jan 5 2009, 12:03 AM

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Optima Yellow Top is selling like rm800 4years ago when i want to upgrade my car audio system. Until now also I haven't buy it and it just increase price not long ago. It is darm expansive
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QUOTE(bsl555 @ Jan 4 2009, 06:55 PM)
Line it all up on a thick black spectacles in flashing mode, raise eyebrows and blink the eyes at you???  tongue.gif
*
hehehe!

actually the aunty is "jazzy"... tongue.gif he has to solder my boards in xchange for free components.. tongue.gif tongue.gif
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ar188,
you pulled a fast one and we got it going for awhile... laugh.gif
thank god, you're not that cruel... wink.gif
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post Jan 5 2009, 12:27 AM

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Hey Jazzy, Actually someone really DID that!.. and flashed the specs at the big boss, when he was coincidently summoned from a fancy dress party. He also wore a Chinese skull cap with a false long pigtail. BTW, he was an Irishman. Imagine an Irishman dressed like that, and facing the chinaman boss!...hahahahah!.
Sorry if it was off topic.
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post Jan 5 2009, 12:30 AM

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OMG! Really ah? doh.gif I thought you're pulling a fast one too! laugh.gif
Would that be an Irish joke or... hmm.gif
grandspy
post Jan 5 2009, 01:57 AM

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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Jan 3 2009, 11:23 PM)
Enermax. Are they 'good'? hmm.gif
*

Are they good??? They are so good that I bought 2 of them.. and both of them went kaput... hahaha tongue.gif

QUOTE(bsl555 @ Jan 3 2009, 11:25 PM)
Can! can!. I hope it won't be a daunting task to revive them first.
*

OK, they're yours smile.gif
Y.C.
post Jan 5 2009, 10:13 AM

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Grandspy, any progress to the assembling and tweaking of your T-amp?

TSxtorm
post Jan 5 2009, 05:35 PM

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i hear free hifi grade component tongue.gif

might be going to jalan pasar this sat, any1 wan the smps? pm me smile.gif

Y.C. see when you are free to drop by, else i might give you a ring when i go site alone...hahah tongue.gif
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post Jan 5 2009, 05:52 PM

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xtorm,
are you getting the 4.2A model?
TSxtorm
post Jan 5 2009, 09:45 PM

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yes, helping another DIYer too...

but im not 100% sure yet tht im going jalan pasar


This post has been edited by xtorm: Jan 5 2009, 09:46 PM
TSxtorm
post Jan 9 2009, 09:40 AM

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tranformer as volume....hmmm totally passive pre-amp, nice housing too
http://www.enjoythemusic.com/Magazine/equi...udio_tvc_se.htm

gona work on the output stage of my t-amp after CNY, trying to get use to the sound with my tannoy before i change anything
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post Jan 9 2009, 11:11 AM

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so, you want to buy/make that passive pre-amp? laugh.gif

TSxtorm
post Jan 9 2009, 12:31 PM

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built....hmm where to get the transformer....hahaha, there is 1 selling with silver wiring inside and silver input and output, rm900 not sure if its worth it or not..
TSxtorm
post Jan 12 2009, 09:39 AM

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hifi4sale blog has been removed!!?? blink.gif

hmm, went to jalan pasar on sunday, lots of shop is close on sunday compare to last time....coulnt manage to get my casing at nixie flex.gif
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post Jan 12 2009, 12:44 PM

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MOST of the shops will be closed on Sundays... NIXIE included! laugh.gif
The only shop open will be the one on the first floor at the Darson building, suffice to get normal/common parts.

QUOTE(xtorm @ Jan 12 2009, 09:39 AM)
hifi4sale blog has been removed!!?? blink.gif

hmm, went to jalan pasar on sunday, lots of shop is close on sunday compare to last time....coulnt manage to get my casing at nixie flex.gif
*
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post Jan 12 2009, 06:58 PM

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QUOTE(Y.C. @ Jan 5 2009, 10:13 AM)
Grandspy, any progress to the assembling and tweaking of your T-amp?
*

progress? err... yes... they'll be ready by end of Jan 2009 blush.gif
TSxtorm
post Jan 12 2009, 08:56 PM

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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Jan 12 2009, 12:44 PM)
MOST of the shops will be closed on Sundays... NIXIE included! laugh.gif
The only shop open will be the one on the first floor at the Darson building, suffice to get normal/common parts.
*
hahaha yea....been few years since i go jalan pasar on sunday, last time there are so much more shops tht are open

getting a nice casing then gona set it up nicely and demo at my fiend's shop tongue.gif guess i goto go again coming saturday

grandspy, haha need me help or not biggrin.gif
Tak-one
post Jan 13 2009, 12:10 PM

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Hi Guys.....

read somewhere about T-amp and there is Sonic or Dr amp looks cool to fit in anywhere..Sifus any comment for the two?


Added on January 13, 2009, 1:27 pmHi Guys.....

read somewhere about T-amp and there is Sonic or Dr amp looks cool to fit in anywhere..Sifus any comment for the two?

This post has been edited by Tak-one: Jan 13 2009, 01:27 PM
TSxtorm
post Jan 14 2009, 09:12 AM

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i think all t-amps sound more then it price biggrin.gif
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post Jan 15 2009, 02:13 PM

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QUOTE(xtorm @ Jan 12 2009, 08:56 PM)
grandspy, haha need me help or not biggrin.gif
*

Thanks for the offer but I'm very determined to get it done all by myself. Just need a casing and I'm ready to go tongue.gif
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post Jan 15 2009, 08:26 PM

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haha ok bro smile.gif

i got few in my hands to 9tim.




This post has been edited by xtorm: Jan 19 2009, 11:32 AM
TSxtorm
post Jan 19 2009, 11:32 AM

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waht kinda of value is suitable for volume? im using 20k and its seems abit soft sad.gif gotto crank it up all the way.....

50k suitable?
jazzy939
post Jan 19 2009, 11:35 AM

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Are you using the 20K pot as a passive preamp?
TSxtorm
post Jan 19 2009, 11:36 AM

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yes bro....from input to volume straight to amp...
jazzy939
post Jan 19 2009, 11:47 AM

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If 20K you need to crank up, I suggest you go lower. 10K would be about right.. 5K pot is also available wink.gif
Y.C.
post Jan 19 2009, 11:47 AM

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QUOTE(xtorm @ Jan 19 2009, 11:36 AM)
....from input to volume straight to amp...
*


This seems old as a 20K ohm volume pot SHOULD sound louder than a 50K ohm unit; bearing in mind that P = I²R and accordingly I = √P/R. If your 20K ohm volume pot is mounted separately in another box, remember to use interconnects of short length with low capacitance value.

BTW, I will try to reschedule our meeting again sometime this week before we break for CNY holidays; my apology for failure to meet up last week.


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post Jan 19 2009, 12:09 PM

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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Jan 19 2009, 11:47 AM)
If 20K you need to crank up, I suggest you go lower. 10K would be about right.. 5K pot is also available wink.gif
*
oh yea....whats wrong with my head...hahaha, must be the lousy volume pot, it suddenly become loud when it reach 3 o'clock then all quiet again at max....wiring issue?

QUOTE(Y.C. @ Jan 19 2009, 11:47 AM)
This seems old as a 20K ohm volume pot SHOULD sound louder than a 50K ohm unit; bearing in mind that P = I²R and accordingly I = √P/R. If your 20K ohm volume pot is mounted separately in another box, remember to use interconnects of short length with low capacitance value.

BTW, I will try to reschedule our meeting again sometime this week before we break for CNY holidays; my apology for failure to meet up last week.
*
nice explanation... icon_rolleyes.gif
it is in the same box, with wire no more then 10cm...sad.gif or did i do something wrong on the wiring... with the knob facing up, middle is ground, right is from the input, left is to the t-amp...correct ah?

no problem bro, just come any time u free. if im going site on my own i might pay you a visit instead. smile.gif



hmm just check my old post tongue.gif
i think the wiring is wrong.....
1st is ground, 2nd is to the amp, 3rd is from the input.


This post has been edited by xtorm: Jan 19 2009, 12:17 PM


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Y.C.
post Jan 19 2009, 12:18 PM

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QUOTE(xtorm @ Jan 19 2009, 12:09 PM)
...or did i do something wrong on the wiring... with the knob facing up, middle is ground, right is from the input, left is to the t-amp...correct ah?

*


With the rotary knob pointing directly at us and the soldering pins pointing up, I’ve always adopted:
Left for input (from the RCA), Middle for output (to T-amp board) and Right for Earthing. You determine front row pins for Right or Left channel yourself.


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post Jan 19 2009, 12:21 PM

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haha ok got it....stupid me. gona redo it now and put in the infamous Y.C. cap and see how it goes...

taking off day today...haha, my car cant start....sad.gif
jazzy939
post Jan 19 2009, 12:24 PM

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Car can't start. Blessing in disguise? tongue.gif
TSxtorm
post Jan 19 2009, 12:28 PM

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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Jan 19 2009, 12:24 PM)
Car can't start. Blessing in disguise? tongue.gif
*
hahaha why is thtlah bro tongue.gif

send for repair edi, waiting for a re-con starter to arrive...
Y.C.
post Jan 19 2009, 02:25 PM

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QUOTE(xtorm @ Jan 19 2009, 12:28 PM)
hahaha why is thtlah bro tongue.gif

*


No need to go to work but could get to enjoy listening to music through the T-amp mah! tongue.gif


TSxtorm
post Jan 19 2009, 02:30 PM

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haha true smile.gif

the volume is working fine now

3.3uf is sweat too, the y.c. cap from jalan pasar not badmah..better then original. biggrin.gif
Y.C.
post Jan 22 2009, 07:11 PM

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Wishing all T-ampers "Happy Chinese New Year" in advance, and

instead of Gong Xi Fa Cai 恭喜发财, let us just aim for Wan Shi Ru Yi 万事如意. biggrin.gif

jazzy939
post Jan 22 2009, 08:48 PM

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Y.C.,
Is that 'Good Luck' or 'All The Best'? hmm.gif
Y.C.
post Jan 23 2009, 02:20 PM

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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Jan 22 2009, 08:48 PM)
Y.C.,
Is that 'Good Luck' or 'All The Best'? hmm.gif
*

Jazzy,
Direct translation of Wan Shi Ru Yi is "Smoothness in Ten Thousand Matters", hence I'd pick "All the Best" to be the better meaning. tongue.gif
And, all the best to you too. Have some happy holidays ahead.

TSxtorm
post Jan 23 2009, 04:57 PM

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kong xi fa cai to you too Y.C. and all t-amp fans....altho not much posting here biggrin.gif

kong xi fa cai direct translation will be congratulation be rich....hahahaha

something like wishing you good fortune ahead
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post Jan 24 2009, 12:33 AM

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Since not much posting, i made one before CNY. Happy CNY to all t-amp modders.
Here is the most recent mod for my friend t-amp board. Only input cap (3.3uf+0.1uf) and power cap (220UF) replaced. No chance to audit it, as collection is immediate after mod.




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milen007
post Jan 29 2009, 02:29 PM

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hi guys

GONG XI FAT CHAI to all that celebrate it.. success always!!

i am new to this forum. just got the pcb for arjen. just wondering if you guys have the schematic? smd desoldering and soldering is killing me. just wanna try to find alternative for soldering thx. with this pcb i would try to run a full range with 85db sensitivity. finger cross that it will be able to drive it lol...

heard you guys has success with car audio setup. this thing come to mind as well. as it draw same voltage as the car battery. just confirmation. this pcb need 0v and 12vdc right?

can we use -6vdc for the (ground) and +6vdc for the (+12v)?

anyway my car speaker is boston pro acoustic 6.53 with spec below: can this lil t-amp drive it?

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_10210_...3C-sup%3E-.html

Speaker Size 6-1/2"
Design 3-way
Tweeter Design Dome
Tweeter Composition Aluminum
Woofer Composition Copolymer
Woofer Surround Butyl Rubber
Peak Power Handling 500 watts
RMS Power Handling 250 watts
Sensitivity 90 dB
Frequency Response 50 - 22000 Hz
Impedance (per voice coil) 3 ohms
Top Mount Depth 2-3/8"
Bottom-mount depth N/A
Cutout Dimensions 5"
3 ohm impedance...

This post has been edited by milen007: Jan 29 2009, 02:38 PM
jazzy939
post Jan 29 2009, 02:37 PM

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-6vdc? from the board? shocking.gif
milen007
post Jan 29 2009, 02:39 PM

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ops maybe i should be clearer. i can ran with psu that has negative and positive regulated supply?

so -6vdc and +6vdc. thx

This post has been edited by milen007: Jan 29 2009, 02:40 PM
jazzy939
post Jan 29 2009, 02:57 PM

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oh yeah.. should work! wink.gif
milen007
post Jan 29 2009, 08:06 PM

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help!!

i connect the stock module. nothing being change. the dc at the speaker terminals are 60mv and 17mv. is this safe to connect the speaker?

the unit it only power up with 12vdc and has not been connected to anything..

how to lower the dc? thx in adv
jazzy939
post Jan 30 2009, 12:01 AM

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thats low.. my dc offsets are in the 100++ mV biggrin.gif
TSxtorm
post Jan 30 2009, 10:40 PM

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KWW, moddin it fro your friend? are they loving it yet biggrin.gif

milen007 are you from malaysia? those boston are 3ohm? hmm you can try, the sensitivity is good enough


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post Jan 30 2009, 10:46 PM

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QUOTE(Y.C. @ Jan 19 2009, 11:47 AM)
This seems old as a 20K ohm volume pot SHOULD sound louder than a 50K ohm unit; bearing in mind that P = I²R and accordingly I = √P/R. If your 20K ohm volume pot is mounted separately in another box, remember to use interconnects of short length with low capacitance value.

BTW, I will try to reschedule our meeting again sometime this week before we break for CNY holidays; my apology for failure to meet up last week.
*
Huh?

If the pot is in line with the source, there shouldnt be a difference in volume. If there is, something is wrong.

A larger value merely means more input impedance, noise and tracking. Nothing else. If you pay attention carefully the pot is wired as a voltage divider. Since the input of the amplifier is very high (assume infinity), this means that the subsequent stage has a very stiff loading and it should not affect the voltage transfer at all. Do remember that an amplifier is also an impedance transformer.


One should use as low as possible, without sacrificing noise and tracking capability. EDIT: Of course, also not too low until it suffocates the source.

This post has been edited by LittleGhost: Jan 30 2009, 10:48 PM
milen007
post Jan 31 2009, 12:58 AM

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QUOTE(xtorm @ Jan 30 2009, 10:40 PM)
KWW, moddin it fro your friend? are they loving it yet biggrin.gif

milen007 are you from malaysia? those boston are 3ohm? hmm you can try, the sensitivity is good enough
*
hi xtorm

me from indonesia. neighboring country. yesp ta2024 looks good with my existing 85db 2 way speakers. it plays quite loud. could shake the house. will try the dc offset mod to zero and other discrete components. maybe give the arjen board few days. as it clear up quite nicely in upper register. nice nice.

on other forum, a user seems to prefer ta2020 such as charlize over the ta2024. how do you guys find?
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post Jan 31 2009, 03:42 PM

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can i use headamp with my mp3 and loudspeaker? or only for headphones?
TSxtorm
post Jan 31 2009, 06:22 PM

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QUOTE(milen007 @ Jan 31 2009, 12:58 AM)
hi xtorm

me from indonesia. neighboring country. yesp ta2024 looks good with my existing 85db 2 way speakers. it plays quite loud. could shake the house. will try the dc offset mod to zero and other discrete components. maybe give the arjen board few days. as it clear up quite nicely in upper register. nice nice.

on other forum, a user seems to prefer ta2020 such as charlize over the ta2024. how do you guys find?
*
yep give it some time to run in, if the highs is harsh, 3.3uf input cap is good smile.gif

QUOTE(danny_sp15 @ Jan 31 2009, 03:42 PM)
can i use headamp with my mp3 and loudspeaker? or only for headphones?
*
it is for loud speaker, it is not a headphones amp
cyl1000
post Feb 1 2009, 10:46 AM

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Hi guys, Gong Xi Fa Cai..been busy with my newborn baby and now only finish 90% of my T-amp in a proper casing..attached is the picture (taken with camera phone, not so clear). It is spray painted in champion white (that is the color code I was told) as my friend do not have the pearl white which I initially planned for. I've not touch up the power button yet.. For the blue LED at volume knob, its a bit too dim, maybe have to get a brighter blue LED as I thought the low brightness type is sufficient...


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LittleGhost
post Feb 1 2009, 11:14 AM

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ME LIKELY!!!

Hammond spraypainted?


milen007
post Feb 1 2009, 11:28 AM

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nice touch. is that the aluminium case? where do you get it? i saw one guys sell it on ebay, been thinking bout that but havent pull the trigger
cyl1000
post Feb 1 2009, 11:30 AM

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QUOTE(LittleGhost @ Feb 1 2009, 11:14 AM)
ME LIKELY!!!

Hammond spraypainted?
*
No..send to Honda workshop and they use the Type R white....but I really would prefer pearl white...maybe add in a red color line at the volume knob would look sportier tongue.gif


Added on February 1, 2009, 11:43 am
QUOTE(milen007 @ Feb 1 2009, 11:28 AM)
nice touch. is that the aluminium case? where do you get it? i saw one guys sell it on ebay, been thinking bout that but havent pull the trigger
*
Bought the alum case from Nixie. The difficult part is to get a nice volume knob so I salvage from an old Onkyo amp..but I still need to get allen screw and painted it white to replace those ugly philips screw..

This post has been edited by cyl1000: Feb 1 2009, 11:43 AM
LittleGhost
post Feb 1 2009, 11:52 AM

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I really must get my hands on that aluminum case.

Eurocard size I presume? How much is it?

How much do they charge for that kind of spray service. It does give me ideas for giving it a commercial look.


cyl1000
post Feb 1 2009, 11:54 AM

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QUOTE(LittleGhost @ Feb 1 2009, 11:52 AM)
I really must get my hands on that aluminum case.

Eurocard size I presume? How much is it?

How much do they charge for that kind of spray service. It does give me ideas for giving it a commercial look.
*
The alum case cost more than the T-amp..for the spray service..FOC tongue.gif coz sending car for them to service regularly.. How commercial you had in mind??


Added on February 1, 2009, 11:55 am
QUOTE(cyl1000 @ Feb 1 2009, 11:54 AM)
The alum case cost more than the T-amp..for the spray service..FOC  tongue.gif  coz sending car for them to service regularly.. How commercial you had in mind??
*
BTW, the case price is RM100..

This post has been edited by cyl1000: Feb 1 2009, 11:55 AM
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post Feb 1 2009, 11:58 AM

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Allu Alloy?

It's slightly cheaper than the Hammond Equivalent. Boleh consider.

How commercial? Maybe spray painted logo/words using templates. Perhaps cheaper than regular laser etching?


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post Feb 1 2009, 11:58 AM

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Geez.. shouldn't have spray painted the knob...looks wierd if you ask me, nevertheless your preference lah.
I've got my own 2k paint spray gun and compressor and maybe economical if spraying many items but its bloody hazardous to the lungs and spraying 1 or 2 small items including all that trouble may not make economical sense.
The paint costs some RM30 for half litre from a specialized auto paint shop and the special thinner is another RM25. Go do the maths.
A well equipped motorbike shop does offer spray painting, AFAIK. They respray custom colors for owner's bike visible painted components.
cyl1000
post Feb 1 2009, 12:09 PM

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QUOTE(bsl555 @ Feb 1 2009, 11:58 AM)
Geez.. shouldn't have spray painted the knob...looks wierd if you ask me, nevertheless your preference lah.
I've got my own 2k paint spray gun and compressor and maybe economical if spraying many items but its bloody hazardous to the lungs and spraying 1 or 2 small items including all that trouble may not make economical sense.
The paint costs some RM30 for half litre from a specialized auto paint shop and the special thinner is another RM25. Go do the maths.
A well equipped motorbike shop does offer spray painting, AFAIK. They respray custom colors for owner's bike visible painted components.
*
The original color of the knob is silver..Adding some color (maybe red) to the knob as an indicator might do the trick...i agree with you..ownself spray paint is hazardous and time consuming and need expertise to make sure the finishing is nice..i think if pass to ppl to do the job is better and faster..


Added on February 1, 2009, 12:11 pm
QUOTE(LittleGhost @ Feb 1 2009, 11:58 AM)
Allu Alloy?

It's slightly cheaper than the Hammond Equivalent. Boleh consider.

How commercial? Maybe spray painted logo/words using templates. Perhaps cheaper than regular laser etching?
*
Yeah..allu aloy..I have tried using templates to spary wordings for my DIY project last time..result weren't that good cry.gif

This post has been edited by cyl1000: Feb 1 2009, 12:11 PM
TSxtorm
post Feb 1 2009, 11:45 PM

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wow very nice cyl!!!

is the casing hard to work with?

i see you still using adapter, nvr try smps yet?

there is some goodies beside the T-amp too? el-34? how does the t-amp compare?
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post Feb 1 2009, 11:55 PM

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QUOTE(cyl1000 @ Feb 1 2009, 10:46 AM)
Hi guys, Gong Xi Fa Cai..been busy with my newborn baby and now only finish 90% of my T-amp in a proper casing..attached is the picture (taken with camera phone, not so clear). It is spray painted in champion white (that is the color code I was told) as my friend do not have the pearl white which I initially planned for. I've not touch up the power button yet.. For the blue LED at volume knob, its a bit too dim, maybe have to get a brighter blue LED as I thought the low brightness type is sufficient...
*
Try look for "ARROW" brand spray paint, got the Metallic Pearl White, just not sure will it bond well on Alu Aloy surface.
About the vol knob LED, the difficult part is to get an "even" look of the brightness as the LED is hiding behind hmm.gif hmm.gif
cyl1000
post Feb 2 2009, 10:08 AM

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QUOTE(xtorm @ Feb 1 2009, 11:45 PM)
wow very nice cyl!!!

is the casing hard to work with?

i see you still using adapter, nvr try smps yet?

there is some goodies beside the T-amp too? el-34? how does the t-amp compare?
*
The casing is not hard work..the hard work now is the power switch..to touch up a black color switch to white with brush. I have tried spray but doesn't work as the side of the rocking switch is too tight and scrape the paint out..i have not tried cage type smps yet..the smps adaptor should be sufficient as it is rated 5.2Amp.
As for the tube amp, its from ebay tongue.gif . Bought it after reading some comment from DiyAudio forum and have not start tweaking yet..At the moment, T-Amp is use to drive Epos M5 and source is the ol' trusty Marantz CD63 (modded) & Arcam BB DAC.


Added on February 2, 2009, 10:14 am
QUOTE(ongbs @ Feb 1 2009, 11:55 PM)
Try look for "ARROW" brand spray paint, got the Metallic Pearl White, just not sure will it bond well on Alu Aloy surface.
About the vol knob LED, the difficult part is to get an "even" look of the brightness as the LED is hiding behind  hmm.gif  hmm.gif
*
I will just stick to the present color as I might spoil the case if I respray. I was looking for a light diffuser/guide that fits that diameter of the volume knob but so far no luck. The only choice now is to use brighter LED and maybe add few more piece of LED..

This post has been edited by cyl1000: Feb 2 2009, 10:14 AM
jazzy939
post Feb 2 2009, 10:20 AM

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How many LEDs did you used? Two? Guess you're gonna add another two, right?
I am thinking how to get the LED light to be distributed equally around the pot knob..
cyl1000
post Feb 2 2009, 10:42 AM

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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Feb 2 2009, 10:20 AM)
How many LEDs did you used? Two? Guess you're gonna add another two, right?
I am thinking how to get the LED light to be distributed equally around the pot knob..
*
I use 4pcs (Up, Down, Left, Right). Maybe add 2 more will be ok???
milen007
post Feb 2 2009, 01:13 PM

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hi guys

i am using 3A regulated ic power supply. sound not bad. just wondering if the meanwell smps going to be better investment? found in ebay sell for usd$39 for 12v 12A. bit overkill. just wondering how much you got this locally?

there is "Rayed" brand, for only usd $17 for the 5A. just wondering if you guys have any experience on this? thx

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...&category=60839

This post has been edited by milen007: Feb 2 2009, 01:14 PM
bsl555
post Feb 2 2009, 01:44 PM

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A higher PSU for any amplifier is seldom an "overkill". It matters most of how clean the DC output which noise, ripple and stability which are undesirable. Well design amps are bulky and heavy because of the weight of transformer and PSU. Surely they don't do this for fun. They could have put in any old SMPS PSU if they didn't care. SMPS is mostly meant for industrial applications and of course a cheap alternative for audio DIY'er. 3 Amps PSU is bare minimum.
milen007
post Feb 2 2009, 01:55 PM

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one more thing, does the ouput ground of the meanwell smps connected to the main earth and chassis? as i am considering another application that output +24vdc 0v -24vdc by using 2 smps module. thx in adv

bsl555, nice... thanks
jazzy939
post Feb 2 2009, 02:31 PM

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milen, why do you need 2xSMPS(12V), when you can get a 24V SMPS?
milen007
post Feb 2 2009, 03:33 PM

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jazzy939, i need +24v 0v -24v for gc. just wanna play around. if the meanwell smps cant disconnect the output ground from the earth input, the 2 smps cant be joined to get the negative voltage. i am planning to get 2 smps with 24 v for GC (which still in consideration) and 1 smps with 12v for t-amp.

any experience with the "Reyed" smps? only cost half of the main well..
jazzy939
post Feb 2 2009, 03:40 PM

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Meanwell have dual output SMPS to cater for this, although I do not know how much it's gonna cost! tongue.gif

I have not seen/used 'REYED' SMPS.. have not seen it locally anyway. Half price? Really?


QUOTE(milen007 @ Feb 2 2009, 03:33 PM)
jazzy939, i need +24v 0v -24v for gc. just wanna play around. if the meanwell smps cant disconnect the output ground from the earth input, the 2 smps cant be joined to get the negative voltage. i am planning to get 2 smps with 24 v for GC (which still in consideration) and 1 smps with 12v for t-amp.

any experience with the "Reyed" smps? only cost half of the main well..
*
milen007
post Feb 2 2009, 03:44 PM

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http://cgi.ebay.com/12V-DC-4-2A-Regulated-...oQQcmdZViewItem

meanwell $33

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=170298309034

reyed $17

all include shipping. how much do you pay for the meanwell in ringgit?
jazzy939
post Feb 2 2009, 04:07 PM

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RM55 for 12V 4.2A model
bsl555
post Feb 2 2009, 04:18 PM

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So many types of SMPS can be found at Pasar Rd shops at affordable prices. Just a matter whether reliable or not. SMPS or any switch mode PSU are most prone to breakdown compared to traditional tranny types. Like your PC PSU lah.. all switching PSU's.

This post has been edited by bsl555: Feb 2 2009, 04:25 PM
milen007
post Feb 2 2009, 04:30 PM

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hi jazzy, geez thats cheap. wish i can buy there

bsl555, too bad i am in indonesia. will shop there when i visit pasar rd. kl is it?

bsl555
post Feb 2 2009, 04:33 PM

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QUOTE(milen007 @ Feb 2 2009, 04:30 PM)
hi jazzy, geez thats cheap. wish i can buy there
bsl555, too bad i am in indonesia. will shop there when i visit pasar rd. kl is it?
*
Yes, its within Kuala Lumpur.
GodLuvSxS
post Feb 8 2009, 08:54 PM

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Hi guys, I'm wonder how well the TA2024 to drive average sensitivity speaker (86 - 90db) in a typical condominium living room? Thanks
jazzy939
post Feb 8 2009, 09:31 PM

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I'd say the T-Amp will drive it effortlessly. wink.gif

QUOTE(GodLuvSxS @ Feb 8 2009, 08:54 PM)
Hi guys, I'm wonder how well the TA2024 to drive average sensitivity speaker (86 - 90db) in a typical condominium living room? Thanks
*
milen007
post Feb 9 2009, 12:28 AM

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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Feb 8 2009, 09:31 PM)
I'd say the T-Amp will drive it effortlessly. wink.gif
*
resounding YES!! i had doubt before as well, but was shock when i connect them to the speaker. superb. my speaker diy.. rated 83db. but it sound louder than my spendor s3/5 which is rated at 83db as well.

This post has been edited by milen007: Feb 9 2009, 12:44 AM
jazzy939
post Feb 9 2009, 12:54 AM

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My TDL's RTL3 is rated at 90dB/W/m. With T-Amp connected I wonder why some people need 100W/channel or even more to play music? laugh.gif
PcWork
post Feb 9 2009, 01:18 AM

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just modified my T-amp for some experiments..
currently power up my T-amp with a 12V 100mah adapter.. and it sounds good =P with total of more than 30K uf power reservior tank for each channel and some modification at signal path.

This post has been edited by PcWork: Feb 9 2009, 01:18 AM
jazzy939
post Feb 9 2009, 02:04 AM

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100mA? shocking.gif
Are you serious? tongue.gif
TSxtorm
post Feb 9 2009, 04:07 AM

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hahah i mention to him many times it is not enough biggrin.gif if you need a 1-amp adapter let me know bro, it is only as big as the regular adapter, rm2x if i remember correctly. im sure it will improve things as t-amp depends alot on the supply too

but im grad u mooded it and like it smile.gif

the input cap must go, jalan pasar rm2 3.3uf is better then it, well tht shows how "good" china stuff are, so i dont really fancy those "enlarge" board with so call hifi grade caps in it selling in china, rather get it done here with stuff from farnell or RS.
PcWork
post Feb 10 2009, 12:21 AM

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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Feb 9 2009, 02:04 AM)
100mA? shocking.gif
Are you serious? tongue.gif
*
QUOTE(xtorm @ Feb 9 2009, 04:07 AM)
hahah i mention to him many times it is not enough biggrin.gif if you need a 1-amp adapter let me know bro, it is only as big as the regular adapter, rm2x if i remember correctly. im sure it will improve things as t-amp depends alot on the supply too

but im grad u mooded it and like it smile.gif

the input cap must go, jalan pasar rm2 3.3uf is better then it, well tht shows how "good" china stuff are, so i dont really fancy those "enlarge" board with so call hifi grade caps in it selling in china, rather get it done here with stuff from farnell or RS.
*
100 mah is enough leh
hehehe
wanna come and listen?
but bigger ampere make it sing louder only.

jazzy939
post Feb 10 2009, 12:24 AM

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If 100mA works for you, heyy what the heck! Play on! wink.gif
March05
post Feb 10 2009, 08:22 AM

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Anybody noticed that Nixie has an `integrated' TA2024 with tube buffer preamp CBU on display and for sale? Price: RM1,5XX.00

jazzy939
post Feb 10 2009, 11:10 AM

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Yep! It was there before end of last year. They actually have a 'demo' unit. What do you think of the price?
It came with a toroid, and the toroid alone costs RM300! shocking.gif

QUOTE(March05 @ Feb 10 2009, 08:22 AM)
Anybody noticed that Nixie has an `integrated' TA2024 with tube buffer preamp CBU on display and for sale? Price: RM1,5XX.00
*
March05
post Feb 10 2009, 11:28 AM

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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Feb 10 2009, 11:10 AM)
What do you think of the price?
*
At 30x the price of our DIY unit..... sweat.gif sweat.gif sweat.gif

OK lah, maybe after adding the cost of the toroid, the tube preamp stage, the casing, miscellaneous parts, trouble shooting, + assembly labour, not too bad.

Did you manage to take a peek under the skirt bonnet or get an audition?
jazzy939
post Feb 10 2009, 11:36 AM

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I certainly did! tongue.gif Not entire impressed by the sound though.. the connected speakers were not well positioned..

My verdict? I can do better with my own DIY and stuffs and at a fraction of that cost! laugh.gif

QUOTE(March05 @ Feb 10 2009, 11:28 AM)
At 30x the price of our DIY unit..... sweat.gif  sweat.gif  sweat.gif

OK lah, maybe after adding the cost of the toroid, the tube preamp stage, the casing, miscellaneous parts, trouble shooting, + assembly labour, not too bad.

Did you manage to take a peek under the skirt bonnet or get an audition?
*
March05
post Feb 10 2009, 12:11 PM

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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Feb 10 2009, 11:36 AM)
I certainly did! tongue.gif Not entire impressed by the sound though..
*
jazzy bro, don't judge them by your high standards lah. biggrin.gif mesti kasi chance sikit, ya?

Anyways, hmm.gif did one of you guys build it for them ah?

BTW I finally bought one casing for my T-amp. Same as the one you use for your VSPS, jazzy. Next, to order the Vishay caps from Farnell.....or has someone got some alternative spares to get rid of? I think I will start tinkering with my kit sometime between now and end of the year. biggrin.gif


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post Feb 10 2009, 12:38 PM

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Hey March,
If you're going to order any parts from Farnell, can tumpang some small capacitors. Few bucks barang only. Let you know later if you're keen.
March05
post Feb 10 2009, 12:50 PM

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Sure can lah...er....you order or I order? My kepala cpu's not working too well as usual....too much cheap booze over the CNY hols. blush.gif
bsl555
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QUOTE(March05 @ Feb 10 2009, 12:50 PM)
Sure can lah...er....you order or I order? My kepala cpu's not working too well as usual....too much cheap booze over the CNY hols.  blush.gif
*
Hahah.. don't poison yourself with cheap booze..nanti short circuit.
Get back to you on the details later. Thanks. smile.gif
March05
post Feb 10 2009, 01:20 PM

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QUOTE(bsl555 @ Feb 10 2009, 01:02 PM)
Hahah.. don't poison yourself with cheap booze..nanti short circuit.
*
That's wot I told me wife too.....don't order no more root beer! Get the real stuff! biggrin.gif

BTW, I need some recommendation for a reliable digital multimeter....budget below RM200. High time I get a real DIYer's meter instead of using those cheap RM20 JP `Sunwa' discards. Maybe I will order from Farnell also lah.
jazzy939
post Feb 10 2009, 02:30 PM

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march,
There's a few TENMA models sub RM200 that should be able to suit your budget.. wink.gif I do not know how 'reliable' this TENMA is..
I can only vouch for FLUKE as this is used extensively in the aviation industry and boy, they were made to lasts! thumbup.gif

QUOTE(March05 @ Feb 10 2009, 01:20 PM)
That's wot I told me wife too.....don't order no more root beer! Get the real stuff! biggrin.gif

BTW, I need some recommendation for a reliable digital multimeter....budget below RM200. High time I get a real DIYer's meter instead of using those cheap RM20 JP `Sunwa' discards. Maybe I will order from Farnell also lah.
*
March05
post Feb 10 2009, 02:55 PM

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Thanks, jazzy bro. I will keep an eye out for TENMA...but this name isn't very familiar to me. Where to get? JP?

FLUKE is way out of my league (or is it the other way round?). I don't wanna look like an engineer, since engineer I'm not.

Oh gosh, I just saw Farnell's prices for digital multimeters....vomit blood.

I'm looking for something easy to read (need big display fonts for this old man), reads usual stuff like DC & AC voltage, current, resistance, capacitance, accurate to 2 decimals,.......warm sound, solid mid-range, powerful bass, sweet treble, got PRAT, etc.
jazzy939
post Feb 10 2009, 04:06 PM

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TENMA is available from Farnell. I saw one 'cute' one at RM44. wink.gif
Oh yeah.. the pricing there you'll vomit everything la! Hahahaha!

Actually there's one low end DMM from SANWA I saw on offer the other day in JP.. Forgot the model number.. I think bsl is having the same model.. SANWA is okay with you?

Heyyy, are we talking about DMM here? rclxub.gif

This is not bad for RM200.74! Can stretch 74sen? laugh.gif

http://my.farnell.com/tenma/72-7735/multim...ital/dp/7430590

QUOTE(March05 @ Feb 10 2009, 02:55 PM)
Thanks, jazzy bro. I will keep an eye out for TENMA...but this name isn't very familiar to me.  Where to get? JP?

FLUKE is way out of my league (or is it the other way round?). I don't wanna look like an engineer, since engineer I'm not.

Oh gosh, I just saw Farnell's prices for digital multimeters....vomit blood.

I'm looking for something easy to read (need big display fonts for this old man), reads usual stuff like DC & AC voltage, current, resistance, capacitance, accurate to 2 decimals,.......warm sound, solid mid-range, powerful bass, sweet treble, got PRAT, etc.
*
March05
post Feb 10 2009, 04:37 PM

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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Feb 10 2009, 04:06 PM)
Heyyy, are we talking about DMM here?  rclxub.gif
*
Oops sorry my mind wandered off again....was thinking of the type of sound I want from the T-amp after modding lah. Strange, I'm doing that (mind wandering, I mean) a lot nowadays..do you think it's Alzheimer's I'm contacting?

OK back to the DMMs...what the ****, my searches for digital multimeter on Farnell keeps showing up GOSSEN METRAWATT @ RM8XX. They're trying to squeeze me ah? How come you can find TENMA but I cannot? Ayoyo!

Sanwa is okay....still got a genuine 20 year old analog Sanwa in my toolkit. But finding it very difficult to read the thin needle, especially in low light. DMM is only the way to go.

Anyways, lessee...TENMA - 72-7735, RM200.74....seventy four sen can lah won't break my bank. Specs well within my requirements...great, shortlisted!!!
jazzy939
post Feb 10 2009, 05:48 PM

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Bro,
Alzheimer's is memory loss thingy.. you're having a 'wandering mind' syndrome! laugh.gif

Just remembered, the SANWA is CD800a model, just basic lah.. That is already RM1XX, based on our discussion on this model in one thread we had, I think the 'TENWA' would be 'better'.. tongue.gif

QUOTE(March05 @ Feb 10 2009, 04:37 PM)
Oops sorry my mind wandered off again....was thinking of the type of sound I want from the T-amp after modding lah. Strange, I'm doing that (mind wandering, I mean) a lot nowadays..do you think it's Alzheimer's I'm contacting?

OK back to the DMMs...what the ****, my searches for digital multimeter on Farnell keeps showing up GOSSEN METRAWATT @ RM8XX. They're trying to squeeze me ah? How come you can find TENMA but I cannot? Ayoyo!

Sanwa is okay....still got a genuine 20 year old analog Sanwa in my toolkit. But finding it very difficult to read the thin needle, especially in low light. DMM is only the way to go.

Anyways, lessee...TENMA - 72-7735, RM200.74....seventy four sen can lah won't break my bank. Specs well within my requirements...great, shortlisted!!!
*
March05
post Feb 10 2009, 06:13 PM

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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Feb 10 2009, 05:48 PM)
Alzheimer's is memory loss thingy.. you're having a  'wandering mind' syndrome! laugh.gif
*
Not Alzheimer's? My word, that's a relief! My wife thinks wandering mind is tolerable lah. As long as it's not wandering hands, or wandering `something-between-the-legs'. wink.gif

Well, it's looking like the TENMA is the ONE. Thanks, that's another TT session IOU.

BTW the promised TT/TT session is still in the works...just need to fix a suitable date, any Feng Shui masters here?
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post Feb 10 2009, 11:02 PM

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Just buy the Sanwa CD800a model lah. It'll suffice most of your needs and its quite accurate. I use one too for more exacting measurements, otherwise its ye old Sanwa analog needle meter. Slightly over RM110 at Pacific Radio at Jalan Pasar. FYI, they also own Asia Sound hifi shop.
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post Feb 10 2009, 11:46 PM

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2nd recommendation for the Sanwas over here.

I'm using CD771 for quite a few years and it has been a great toy to abuse.

EDIT: Display is decently huge and it's very rigid and solid. Dropped it a few times too but the rubbery layer on the outside protected it very much. Around RM200 range.

This post has been edited by LittleGhost: Feb 10 2009, 11:47 PM
ijan
post Feb 10 2009, 11:56 PM

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i can say the same for sanwa, ada cd800a, but seriously recommend FLUKE, u can source for cheap used fluke around here...the things ppl sell online..even on lowyat. i know i got my fluke83 for 1/5th the price at only one month old..


Added on February 10, 2009, 11:59 pmid recommend going direct to fluke, saves u a lot cause EVENTUALLY u will buy one. uncle bsl must haf a diff standing on this though but me sokong uncle jazzy on fluke. hard sunnavab1thc!

This post has been edited by ijan: Feb 10 2009, 11:59 PM
jazzy939
post Feb 11 2009, 08:55 AM

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I saw 2 FLUKES for sale in Garage Sales. One going for RM250, the other one going half price for 700 bucks! whistling.gif

This one 250 bucks.FLUKE 73III:

This post has been edited by jazzy939: Feb 11 2009, 08:59 AM


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LittleGhost
post Feb 11 2009, 09:06 AM

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There's a reason I wouldnt want to recommend the Flukes.

Well the Sanwa does as well too. If i really want to spend i'd rather save the money and spend in on scopes+signal generators.

But really, that's just me.
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post Feb 11 2009, 09:15 AM

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Hey guys. Its usual you fellas luv to suggest nice things that also come with a nice prices, moreover adventure to reach out for great bargains somewhere in cyberspace. I know March05 and I'm sure he's insisting on something of value, useful and practical without going overboard. We aren't able to find a Fluke cheaply just about from anywhere. The basic Sanwa will do for sure.
Speaking about Sanwa, I'd been eyeing that pocket sized multimeter for sometime but wished it was much cheaper. Why?..carry it around when I go buy thingys like resistors. So many times I've found "other values" stuffed in those little trays and the shop multimeter is just atrocious!.

This post has been edited by bsl555: Feb 11 2009, 09:19 AM
March05
post Feb 11 2009, 09:46 AM

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QUOTE(LittleGhost @ Feb 11 2009, 09:06 AM)
There's a reason I wouldnt want to recommend the Flukes.
*
Tell us, tell us lah! biggrin.gif

biggrin.gif bsl knows me well enough. Honestly, my wandering mind is now shamelessly swinging to the Sanwa CD880a. A huge difference of RM90 over the TENMA (that's a lot of teh tariks + satay thrown in brows.gif ) The Sanwa CD771 is eye catching....I like the huge display, but the price seems to be RM300++ in reality unless I'm looking in all the wrong places.

FLUKE 80 V series is worth drooling over, but completely out of my budget, I think. The 73 series unfortunately seems to have no capacitance measurement....(I need this, that's the one parameter I've always missed with my current multimeters).

Appreciate the feedback, folks. Maybe some of the other readers here are also in looking for DMMs, so they will also find good use of your suggestions.


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post Feb 11 2009, 09:57 AM

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March05. Trust me and just buy the Sanwa, or any Sanwa model for your purposes, no need to think so much. Its still Made in Jepun and been around for decades. You can never really go wrong with it.
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post Feb 11 2009, 10:13 AM

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QUOTE(March05 @ Feb 11 2009, 09:46 AM)
Tell us, tell us lah!  biggrin.gif

biggrin.gif bsl knows me well enough. Honestly, my wandering mind is now shamelessly swinging to the Sanwa CD880a. A huge difference of RM90 over the TENMA (that's a lot of teh tariks + satay thrown in  brows.gif ) The Sanwa CD771 is eye catching....I like the huge display, but the price seems to be RM300++ in reality unless I'm looking in all the wrong places.

FLUKE 80 V series is worth drooling over, but completely out of my budget, I think. The 73 series unfortunately seems to have no capacitance measurement....(I need this, that's the one parameter I've always missed with my current multimeters).

Appreciate the feedback, folks. Maybe some of the other readers here are also in looking for DMMs, so they will also find good use of your suggestions.
*
Reasons: Expensive, money better spent on more practical equipments such as scopes and signal generators. I'm now even adding a PCB Miller in my list unfortunately saving up for that much money will take years. (SAD)


I got my CD771 for Rm220 three years ago. smile.gif EDIT: Should be even cheaper now.

You're getting it at the wrong places.

EDIT:
http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=917206&hl=fluke

The Fluke looks like a pretty decent buy though. But if yuo're patient there should be more nicely priced second hands that will do better than sanwas if you're not keen on the sanwas.

This post has been edited by LittleGhost: Feb 11 2009, 10:21 AM
milen007
post Feb 11 2009, 10:44 AM

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how bout oscilloscope recommendation? need cheap and usable to play around?

100MSa/s USB PC Based Digital Storage Oscilloscope 2090 any good? but it cost 200usd

This post has been edited by milen007: Feb 11 2009, 10:45 AM
March05
post Feb 11 2009, 11:17 AM

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QUOTE(LittleGhost @ Feb 11 2009, 10:13 AM)
I got my CD771 for Rm220 three years ago.  smile.gif EDIT: Should be even cheaper now.
You're getting it at the wrong places.
*
LittleGhost, hokay, I get your reasoning on the value of the FLUKE stuff. I kinda like the higher accuracy of the FLUKES compared to the Sanwas, but it'll be overkill for a non-techie like me. However, if the price of a 80V series used unit is right...who knows, I might be tempted (I think more for the snob value of owning one rather than its function.)

So, now it boils down to either the Sanwa CD800a or the CD771. I think if I can get a new CD771 for RM200 or less, that's my choice. The backlight & larger display is right up my list of priorities. And it is a bit more accurate than the CD800a + seems slightly better featured.




ijan
post Feb 11 2009, 12:07 PM

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fluke acc (6000 counts), a bit better than sanwa (4000) for the lower end, fluke 70/80>sanwa low end, but when the count goes up, then its different. the higher fluke 28x series has 50,000 counts..thats kewl..

cd771 has better feature..that you will not use smile.gif


Added on February 11, 2009, 12:09 pmthe online price mam rs n farnell cannot be used as reference la, like my fluke 83 almost rm2k in price, but i know the first owner bought them for slightly over rm1k, and i bought them much less than 30% of that.

This post has been edited by ijan: Feb 11 2009, 12:09 PM
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post Feb 11 2009, 12:15 PM

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QUOTE(ijan @ Feb 11 2009, 12:07 PM)
fluke acc (6000 counts), a bit better than sanwa (4000) for the lower end, fluke 70/80>sanwa low end, but when the count goes up, then its different. the higher fluke 28x series has 50,000 counts..thats kewl..
*
Yes its kewl, when you're involved with rocket science and multiple decimal points on the scale. I know March05 need a general purpose DMM, thats it. smile.gif

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post Feb 11 2009, 02:58 PM

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agreed.
jazzy939
post Feb 11 2009, 03:09 PM

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Surely with FLUKE, you'll be getting, QUOTE " something easy to read (need big display fonts for this old man), reads usual stuff like DC & AC voltage, current, resistance, capacitance, accurate to 2 decimals,.......warm sound, solid mid-range, powerful bass, sweet treble, got PRAT, etc. " UNQUOTE laugh.gif


KenC
post Feb 13 2009, 04:20 PM

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Hi,
I'm new here, Met March05 at Nixie and he introduced me here. I am so glad that I drop by, you guys are a fun lot.

Mrch05,
Take the Sanwa, its great value for money, I have on of those 880 too; Save the money for other instruments like Little ghose suggested.

Cheers

KenC

This post has been edited by KenC: Feb 13 2009, 07:39 PM
jazzy939
post Feb 13 2009, 05:16 PM

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kenC,
Well come aboard! thumbup.gif

Here's the fine print:
We do not guarantee your sanity here.. Enter, read at your own risks! laugh.gif


KenC
post Feb 13 2009, 07:44 PM

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Jazzy939,

I only hope I won't inflick more damages... tongue.gif

Show you one of my war scares... blush.gif


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March05
post Feb 13 2009, 07:59 PM

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Hi hi hi KenC, I forgot to thank you for the teh tarik treat the other day. A belated thanks, and for those DIY tips too.

jazzy bro, this bloke is already as insane as all you guys. laugh.gif


jazzy939
post Feb 13 2009, 08:04 PM

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Ahhhh.. there more the merrier! laugh.gif
Welcome to the T-AMP Asylum !

BTW, bro March. At NIXIE also manage to 'poison' people! thumbup.gif
jazzy939
post Feb 13 2009, 08:05 PM

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Heyyy pretty 'good' looking stuff there.. antique time machine? tongue.gif

QUOTE(KenC @ Feb 13 2009, 07:44 PM)
Jazzy939,

I only hope I won't inflick more damages...  tongue.gif

Show you one of my war scares... blush.gif
*
LittleGhost
post Feb 13 2009, 08:35 PM

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I want to meet you people so desperately. Especially if we're meeting in someone's workplace/garage/workstation.


jazzy939
post Feb 13 2009, 08:41 PM

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We are? shocking.gif Wonder where.... hmm.gif

QUOTE(LittleGhost @ Feb 13 2009, 08:35 PM)
I want to meet you people so desperately. Especially if we're meeting in someone's workplace/garage/workstation.
*
LittleGhost
post Feb 13 2009, 09:38 PM

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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Feb 13 2009, 08:41 PM)
We are?  shocking.gif Wonder where.... hmm.gif
*
i meant that as in "if we were going to meet". A hypothetical speech.
jazzy939
post Feb 13 2009, 09:47 PM

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Hehe.. I know LG biggrin.gif

Last we had was at junchoo's place and before that the first session at Y.C's office..

Another T-Amp session anyone?
KenC
post Feb 14 2009, 09:16 AM

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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Feb 13 2009, 08:05 PM)
Heyyy pretty 'good' looking stuff there.. antique time machine? tongue.gif
*
one of my very early DIY Gain Clone using LM1375, end up give to one of my ex-boss as present... to clear space and you know what la...

Use tissue box as chassis with some mod.

the top left is power switch, the middle is volume pot, the right is 4-position input selector switch.

Can see the intestine in the attached pic. You guys like?

Cheers

KenC


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jazzy939
post Feb 14 2009, 09:41 AM

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KenC,
The question is, 'Does you ex-boss liked it'? tongue.gif

Do you use any 'exotic' components? Just an 'EI' tranny eh? Any problem with 'hum' and 'noises' since you're using a wooden bix?

The thing with any pix on the innards.. some like, some don't biggrin.gif

I like it! Thanks..

This post has been edited by jazzy939: Feb 14 2009, 09:42 AM
KenC
post Feb 14 2009, 11:01 AM

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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Feb 14 2009, 09:41 AM)
KenC,
The question is, 'Does you ex-boss liked it'? tongue.gif

Do you use any 'exotic' components? Just an 'EI' tranny eh? Any problem with 'hum' and 'noises' since you're using a wooden bix?

The thing with any pix on the innards.. some like,  some don't biggrin.gif

I like it! Thanks..
*
Glad that you like it.

Donno the ex-boss like or not leh... boss like to put up square face in any occasions ma; from what I know, he never took it out from his AV system.... donno kedekut or he like...

No need exotic component everywhere one la... I normally choose from what is readily accessible. I find Rubycon caps off the shelf in Malaysia EE hardware stores very good for PS. As in signal circuits, I avoid Electrolitic caps when even I can use any plastic caps will do, my favurite are MPK, but then everone has their own preference for any reasons.

EI trans? you must know their characteristics ma... keep your signal circuits >1.5inch from the trans any you will keep those EMF at bay. if not, implement a faraday's screen loh, easy what. If trans vibrates, return to supllier la! or pur rubber feet to isolate the vibration from the chassis loh, better still put outside.

Only when you do thing like the attached pic then you guarantee all sort of noise and hum problems.... (I did it on purpose just for the challange... blush.gif )

It is not absolutely true that expensive=better... icon_idea.gif

BTW, I always make sure the amp has some weight so that can hold the cables connected to the amp and not swivel around when I turn the volume Pots.


Cheers

KenC


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jazzy939
post Feb 14 2009, 11:10 AM

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KenC,
I agree.. 'bosses' are hard to 'judge'.. tongue.gif

I don't rally go all out with exotic/audiophile components.. only a few 'fav' choices.. wink.gif
I would just use the normal JP variant and see how it perform in 'stock' form.. then if it's lacking in a certain department, only then I'l start tweaking with different type of components...

Yeah.. those 'EI' need to be away alright.. When I need to use one.. they're 'out of sight'! biggrin.gif

I too have a softspot for MPKs... wink.gif

I truely agreed.. In order to enjoy music.. you need not break the bank.. and upset the missus at the same time! laugh.gif

Interesting pic.. tube preamp/buffer?

QUOTE(KenC @ Feb 14 2009, 11:01 AM)
Glad that you like it.

Donno the ex-boss like or not leh... boss like to put up square face in any occasions ma; from what I know, he never took it out from his AV system.... donno kedekut or he like...

No need exotic component everywhere one la... I normally choose from what is readily accessible. I find Rubycon caps off the shelf in Malaysia EE hardware stores very good for PS. As in signal circuits, I avoid Electrolitic caps when even I can use any plastic caps will do, my favurite are MPK, but then everone has their own preference for any reasons. 

EI trans? you must know their characteristics ma... keep your signal circuits >1.5inch from the trans any you will keep those EMF at bay. if not, implement a faraday's screen loh, easy what. If trans vibrates, return to supllier la! or pur rubber feet to isolate the vibration from the chassis loh, better still put outside.

Only when you do thing like the attached pic then you guarantee all sort of noise and hum problems.... (I did it on purpose just for the challange...  blush.gif  )

It is not absolutely true that expensive=better... icon_idea.gif

BTW, I always make sure the amp has some weight so that can hold the cables connected to the amp and not swivel around when I turn the volume Pots.
Cheers

KenC
*
This post has been edited by jazzy939: Feb 14 2009, 11:13 AM
KenC
post Feb 14 2009, 01:14 PM

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Hi Jazzy,

Its an Aikido preamp, P2P, regulated PS, 6n1p front 5965 back. 4 triodes per channel, P2P on PCB ground plane.

This circuit topology is soo neutral!!! It tames characteristics of tube, most tubes I tried don't have drastic sonic characteristics.

Difficult to build oh.... sweat.gif

Attached is much more simple preamp using 1626 during my early stage of learning tubes.


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jazzy939
post Feb 14 2009, 01:25 PM

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Hi KenC,
Thanks for replying... wink.gif

Ahhhh, The Aikido... have read a lot about it.. never heard one! biggrin.gif

I have not started anything on tubes.. will ask you for pointers if you don't mind...

Still keeping your first build eh..? Still working I presumed?

Yup, a faster way of learning is to build one! And I am thinking about making a tube phono pre-amp... you know any good/simple/cheap circuits? tongue.gif

QUOTE(KenC @ Feb 14 2009, 01:14 PM)
Hi Jazzy,

Its an Aikido preamp, P2P, regulated PS, 6n1p front 5965 back. 4 triodes per channel, P2P on PCB ground plane.

This circuit topology is soo neutral!!! It tames characteristics of tube, most tubes I tried don't have drastic sonic characteristics.

Difficult to build oh.... sweat.gif

Attached is much more simple preamp using 1626 during my early stage of learning tubes.
*
This post has been edited by jazzy939: Feb 14 2009, 01:26 PM
KenC
post Feb 14 2009, 01:40 PM

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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Feb 14 2009, 01:25 PM)
Hi KenC,
Thanks for replying... wink.gif

Ahhhh, The Aikido... have read a lot about it.. never heard one! biggrin.gif

I have not started anything on tubes.. will ask you for pointers if you don't mind...

Still keeping your first build eh..? Still working I presumed?

Yup, a faster way of learning is to build one! And I am thinking about making a tube phono pre-amp... you know any good/simple/cheap circuits? tongue.gif
*
I actually build quite a few of experimental preamps.... easily over 20 sets blush.gif ... some gave away, most dismantle for more builts... now only have 3 units of Aikido with different construction/layout/gounding techniques...

Phono preamp, MC?

Its very easy to design one.... and there are thusands of circuit freely available if you google a bit.

I wouldn't recommend anyone to build a phono as 1st project, unless
1) they are familiar with high tension electricity
2) they had learnt how to tame hum/noise
3) sure with RIAA
4) buy a kit.

Very easy to
1) get killed
2) discourage.

No pun intended nod.gif

I would suggest a simple buffer pre-amp for 1st time builder. Interested?

Cheers

KenC
jazzy939
post Feb 14 2009, 02:07 PM

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I've done 'googling' alright! Many circuits with hard to get tubes tongue.gif

Initially I was planning to start with MM phono preamp. I already have the VSPS.

Yep. I am aware of the points highlighted. Good reminder though!

A simple buffer preamp, why not!

Shall we start a new thread for this? This is kinda hijacking the T-Amp thread! laugh.gif

Thanks again KenC.



QUOTE(KenC @ Feb 14 2009, 01:40 PM)
I actually build quite a few of experimental preamps.... easily over 20 sets  blush.gif ... some gave away, most dismantle for more builts... now only have 3 units of Aikido with different construction/layout/gounding techniques...

Phono preamp, MC?

Its very easy to design one.... and there are thusands of circuit freely available if you google a bit.

I wouldn't recommend anyone to build a phono as 1st project, unless
1) they are familiar with high tension electricity
2) they had learnt how to tame hum/noise
3) sure with RIAA
4) buy a kit.

Very easy to
1) get killed
2) discourage.

No pun intended nod.gif

I would suggest a simple buffer pre-amp for 1st time builder. Interested?

Cheers

KenC
*
KenC
post Feb 14 2009, 02:19 PM

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Hi,

Yes, we should start a new thread for a tube buffer pre amp.

BTW, where you guys get the T-amp?

Cheers

KenC
jazzy939
post Feb 14 2009, 02:25 PM

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xtorm is the guy who 'bulked' the item few times over. Used to be RM55, now it's RM60 each.

Here' the link.
KenC
post Feb 14 2009, 03:15 PM

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Thanks jazzy, just PM him. wonder if there are higher power units?

Also curious what speakers you guys used for the T-amp?
jazzy939
post Feb 14 2009, 05:42 PM

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KenC,
There are other variants of the T-Amp made by Tripath and other similar Class D amplifications.. we're kinda nuts about TA2024 because of it's price, thus 'value for money/best bang per buck' category.

Any high efficiency speakers can be driven by the T-Amp effortlessly..
I am using transmission line 90dB/W/m speakers.
KenC
post Feb 14 2009, 05:59 PM

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Jazzy,
Thanks for your reply,

More question,
What is
a) the input Impedance?
b) Input sensitivity?
I am sure the answers are within those ~200pages of threads, I might have to get new glasses after reading all... Can someone help save the reading time?

Cheers

KenC
jazzy939
post Feb 14 2009, 06:59 PM

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Not at all KenC
Here's some spec. which should answer your queries.

T-Amp IC Tripath TA2024

Output Power 2 x 15W @ 4ohm, 2 x 10W @ 8ohm
Signal-to-Noise Ratio (SNR) 98dB
Dynamic Range 98dB
IHF-IM Distortion 0.1% @ 1W, 4ohm
THD Distortion
0.03% @ 9W, 4ohm
0.1% @ 11W 4ohm
0.1% @ 6W 8ohm
10% @ 15W 4ohm
10% @ 10W 8ohm
Power Efficiency 81% @ 15W, 4ohm, 90% @ 10W, 8ohm
Input Sensitivity 200mV
Input Impedance 120Kohm.
KenC
post Feb 14 2009, 07:13 PM

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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Feb 14 2009, 06:59 PM)
Not at all KenC
Here's some spec. which should answer your queries.

T-Amp IC Tripath TA2024

Output Power 2 x 15W @ 4ohm, 2 x 10W @ 8ohm
Signal-to-Noise Ratio (SNR) 98dB
Dynamic Range 98dB
IHF-IM Distortion 0.1% @ 1W, 4ohm
THD Distortion
0.03% @ 9W, 4ohm
0.1% @ 11W 4ohm
0.1% @ 6W 8ohm
10% @ 15W 4ohm
10% @ 10W 8ohm
Power Efficiency 81% @ 15W, 4ohm, 90% @ 10W, 8ohm
Input Sensitivity 200mV
Input Impedance 120Kohm.
*
Thousand thanks!

Zin 120k very high vor... why ppl ask for buffer? hmm.gif

Input Sensitivity 200mV, even can play turn table MC direct (almost...) thumbup.gif

Why ah? hmm.gif
jazzy939
post Feb 14 2009, 07:23 PM

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Because of the pot that is used at the input as a 'pre-amp' tongue.gif
KenC
post Feb 15 2009, 01:36 PM

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Like it or not, either active or passive, a pot will always be there one. vmad.gif

TO be precise, buffer amp is for reducing the source impedance to lower then the input Z of the next stage, normal ss amps has Zin of 20K~50k, 100k, even chin chai make one tube can give output impedance lower then 100k, SS one even lower the 5k olso easy only...

A line amp is to overcome whatever sum of capacitance there is between the source and the power amp.... This one make more sense cos some ppl like to use very long interconnect...

It more convincing to build line amp, at least to tipu ourselves into comfort of dumping more money into it?

BTW, to the train and untrained eye, buffer amp and line amp, looks the same, cost the same, works the same.... tongue.gif rclxub.gif mega_shok:
jazzy939
post Feb 15 2009, 07:16 PM

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KenC,
Is there a way to change(modify) a buffer amp into a line amp or vice-versa? hmm.gif

This post has been edited by jazzy939: Feb 15 2009, 07:20 PM
KenC
post Feb 16 2009, 10:02 AM

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IMHO, line amp and buffer amp are in fact the same thing. different names just to syok sendiri only tongue.gif

This post has been edited by KenC: Feb 16 2009, 10:03 AM
TSxtorm
post Feb 16 2009, 04:15 PM

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haha you guys are great keeping the thread alive....biggrin.gif thanks jazzy

http://hifi4sale.fullboards.com/hi-fi-4-sa...ring-pj-t74.htm

i might be going smile.gif since i got few extras t-amp in hand, gona bring my own built up unit too biggrin.gif

This post has been edited by xtorm: Feb 16 2009, 04:16 PM
jazzy939
post Feb 16 2009, 05:05 PM

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Not at all lah xtorm.. wink.gif

Don't know if I'm joining the gath. but I am also thinking about selling my T-Amp setup.. ada orang mau beli kah? hmm.gif
TSxtorm
post Feb 19 2009, 11:30 PM

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wah sifu setup wana sell....

ta2020 with 25w power any1 interested?
hsk
post Feb 20 2009, 09:37 AM

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any different between ta2020 & ta2040 ?
kww
post Feb 20 2009, 08:36 PM

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anyone replace the inductor with better quality like air-core before?
Y.C.
post Feb 20 2009, 09:20 PM

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QUOTE(xtorm @ Feb 19 2009, 11:30 PM)
ta2020 with 25w power any1 interested?
*


You meant this board per pix below? What would be your SP to us?



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jazzy939
post Feb 21 2009, 10:22 AM

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Hehe good one Y.C.! wink.gif
PcWork
post Feb 21 2009, 11:26 AM

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QUOTE(Y.C. @ Feb 20 2009, 09:20 PM)
You meant this board per pix below? What would be your SP to us?
*
YO.. Bring It On.. who got sell.. how much..
if it is like the board at the pix .. i think i am pretty much itchy for it..


March05
post Feb 21 2009, 11:33 AM

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Oh no! not another one...I haven't even started on my TA2024 yet! Die lah like this.
gabanyayaya
post Feb 21 2009, 11:40 AM

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QUOTE(March05 @ Feb 21 2009, 12:33 PM)
Oh no! not another one...I haven't even started on my TA2024 yet! Die lah like this.
*
Been so long bro March...still not complete...you must have been taking a loooong vacation...!!!
March05
post Feb 21 2009, 11:54 AM

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gabanyayaya bro....no lah, I need a loooong vacation, and some fresh motivation. So when are you hosting the next TT session? wink.gif
jazzy939
post Feb 21 2009, 12:16 PM

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March,
We all need a loooongggg vacation! laugh.gif

Next TT Session? shocking.gif
gabanyayaya
post Feb 21 2009, 12:20 PM

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QUOTE(March05 @ Feb 21 2009, 12:54 PM)
gabanyayaya bro....no lah, I need a loooong vacation, and some fresh motivation. So when are you hosting the next TT session?  wink.gif
*
TT ahh....nice one...don't know la...just ask our MC...Mr.Jazzy....!!! tongue.gif

I guess you still have the Heybrook ...?? Just spare your self a day and just hook up some wires and psu (smps)....done ! the amp is ready to accompany the Heybrook for you to enjoy the whole day...no fuss... I think you have more motivation that you should need lah... smile.gif
jazzy939
post Feb 21 2009, 01:40 PM

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What MC Mr. Jazzy? tongue.gif
TSxtorm
post Feb 21 2009, 06:23 PM

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QUOTE(hsk @ Feb 20 2009, 09:37 AM)
any different between ta2020 & ta2040 ?
*
ta2040...not sur bro...


QUOTE(kww @ Feb 20 2009, 08:36 PM)
anyone replace the inductor with better quality like air-core before?
*
i think no.....

QUOTE(Y.C. @ Feb 20 2009, 09:20 PM)
You meant this board per pix below? What would be your SP to us?
*
yep probably... still trying to get a good price from supplier, hehe sure SP 1.... biggrin.gif

QUOTE(PcWork @ Feb 21 2009, 11:26 AM)
YO.. Bring It On.. who got sell.. how much..
if it is like the board at the pix .. i think i am pretty much itchy for it..
*
i think might be triple ta2024 that i bring in

QUOTE(March05 @ Feb 21 2009, 11:33 AM)
Oh no! not another one...I haven't even started on my TA2024 yet! Die lah like this.
*
hahaha....if the price work out, mayb i bring it in before april

This post has been edited by xtorm: Feb 21 2009, 06:24 PM
jazzy939
post Feb 21 2009, 11:08 PM

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Do it xtorm! wink.gif

This post has been edited by jazzy939: Feb 21 2009, 11:08 PM
dylanhaydenshuiyo
post Feb 23 2009, 10:50 PM

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Hi T-Amp Sifus,

Just to share my humble experience with u all.

In Nov 08,I finally decided to take a jump in into hi-fi things (entry level).

Almost "jump out" again when I see the price tag in hifi shop tongue.gif

Nowadays economy demands to be prudent but cannot tahan the poison anymore.

Then set my mission : to built below RM1K hifi setup (cdp+amp+speaker+no brand interconnects&speaker cable).

My friends laugh at me & says it is impossible!!!

And the hunt started :

Early Jan 09- Manage to get CDP Sansui X-310 (NOS) = RM300

Mid Jan 09- Bought PSB Alpha Bookshelf Speaker (used) = RM300
- Speaker Cable + RCA2RCA I/connects = RM60

After countless hours of searching, I found the review of T-Amp in TNT then in LYN forum (this thread). A bit sceptical at first but the price attract me RM60. drool.gif

But shocking.gif chip only aa?

I am no modder or DIYer blush.gif . So for safety purpose tongue.gif I decided to order complete built T-Amp from bro xtorm.

Finally have it on last week wednesday with a price that really fit my tight budget

Results -

1) First impression - Clarity, great vocals & treble, but overall quite harsh, lack of bass (some of my cd are hard rock & metals)

2) After 30 hours running in
- harshness start to dissapear
- very detail in instruments & vocal sounds, start to hear the sound of some instrument that I vr heard b4 biggrin.gif
- no complaints on classical/neo classical movie soundtrack, feels like those chambers orchestra playing infront of me tongue.gif
- the bass on pop & hard rock cds starts to improve.
- As for metal cds have to wait untill finish running in 100 hours but bro xtrom told me should be realistic on 5W blush.gif

anyway I am glad to take "plunge" in this T-Amp. really happy for what i have now. At this moment la.

Wah TA2020 with 25W ? drool.gif












jazzy939
post Feb 24 2009, 12:09 AM

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dylan,
way to go! thumbup.gif
welcome to the club!
ongbs
post Feb 26 2009, 12:20 PM

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QUOTE(xtorm @ Feb 21 2009, 06:23 PM)
ta2040...not sur bro...
i think no.....
yep probably... still trying to get a good price from supplier, hehe sure SP 1.... biggrin.gif
i think might be triple ta2024 that i bring in
hahaha....if the price work out, mayb i bring it in before april
*
wow...new toys coming huh? tongue.gif
dylanhaydenshuiyo
post Mar 4 2009, 06:16 PM

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my running in almost reach 50hours tongue.gif

but I am quite curious on this matter hmm.gif

I notice nowadays once i switch on the amp and start play the cd, the first 2 songs normally sounds "flat", means that lack of treble, clarity etc. I am talking even on those acoustic songs

But the third songs onwards, it sound much nicer, more details & so on like what i describe before. Now for some good recordings and especially when volume at 8 or 9 o clock, even the bass are quite solid cool.gif

So the Q's are

a)Is it the amp need some time to warm up once it is switch on ?

b) Does good recording in the cd are important? Most of my imported version cd's (international artiste) sounds really good but the some of the local pressed cd tak ada oomph la ?
kww
post Mar 4 2009, 07:48 PM

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dylan, I don't know your mod on t-amp but my modded t-amp sound sweet when turn on.
jazzy939
post Mar 4 2009, 08:20 PM

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Same here! No 'warming up' necessary.. performance at the flick of a switch! wink.gif
dylanhaydenshuiyo
post Mar 5 2009, 09:10 AM

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kww,

mine pasang siap version (bought complete build from x-torm) tongue.gif

but i remember x-torm told me, he did change something, the black thing (cap is it ?). bro x-torm sorry if i mention it wrong smile.gif

jazzy,

no warm up eh ? maybe i need to to adjust my telinga biggrin.gif

anyway, cannot deny from hour to hour, this amp is getting better & better !!

last night, listen to Shania Twain (sexy voice), Laura Pausini (powerful italian voice), Eric Clapton (guitar master) & Therion (symphonic metal band). me like drool.gif !!


cRazYee
post Mar 5 2009, 09:50 AM

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i got a few dump question

this T-amp is it works like DAC?
is it the similar amp to Little Dot stuff?

I need an amp to amplifier output from my com to my Aego m
March05
post Mar 5 2009, 11:07 AM

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cRazYee:i got a few dump question
March05: This is a good place as any to dump some dumb questions.

cRazYee: this T-amp is it works like DAC? is it the similar amp to Little Dot stuff?
March05: No.

cRazYee: I need an amp to amplifier output from my com to my Aego m
March05: My turn to ask a dumb question. Why? Your Aego m has already got a built-in amp, and your comp/pc has got a built-in pre amp output, right?
kww
post Mar 5 2009, 11:14 AM

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dylan, your t-amp remind me of my old car. The first minute you can't move else the engine will die off, the next 5min the gear change will be rough, after that everything is back to normal.

Mind telling us what caps are in the board now? Is it the only change?
Mine all change except the 2024 and inductors.
Y.C.
post Mar 5 2009, 11:22 AM

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Although I have not experienced pre-warm up sound as ascribed by Dylan, I am a firm believer of electronics sounding better after 20 minutes of warming up after powering up.

Kww, is your T-amp dead silent without music signal passing through now that it should be properly run-in?

This post has been edited by Y.C.: Mar 5 2009, 11:23 AM
cRazYee
post Mar 5 2009, 11:26 AM

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QUOTE(March05 @ Mar 5 2009, 11:07 AM)
cRazYee:i got a few dump question
March05: This is a good place as any to dump some dumb questions.

cRazYee: this T-amp is it works like DAC? is it the similar amp to Little Dot stuff?
March05: No.

cRazYee: I need an amp to amplifier output from my com to my Aego m
March05: My turn to ask a dumb question. Why? Your Aego m has already got a built-in amp, and your comp/pc has got a built-in pre amp output, right?
*
yap, aego m got it's own amp, but still feeling something missing, cuz i hardly turn to high volume

i'm using Mcbook pro, the output is not as good..... and how do you mean by preamp output?

how i position 'T-amp'? It's like ordinary amplifier?


kww
post Mar 5 2009, 11:46 AM

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Yc, long time no see, how are you?
The warm up is too little for me to notice the difference. My ear need more training. My t-amp still got hissing sound when turn on with music, but not notice even in middle of the night unless put put my ear next to the speaker. I think is because of any of these reason:
1. i mix some Jalan Pasar cap (1uF, 100pF) and resistors (10ohm, 8.2kohm) to the quality component you pass to me.
2. The component leg is too long (as seem from pic, it is about 2cm for some cap). The input cap and power cap are on another board, the wire is about 5" long.
3. A few broken connection reconnect with bare wire.

Anyway it is still very sweet and smooth, only complain from wife and kids are no remote control for volume. Now it is my dinning room DVD 2 ch home theater amp. Maybe will build another later with better quality components, looking forward for long holiday.
March05
post Mar 5 2009, 12:27 PM

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QUOTE(cRazYee @ Mar 5 2009, 11:26 AM)
yap, aego m got it's own amp, but still feeling something missing, cuz i hardly turn to high volume

i'm using Mcbook pro, the output is not as good..... and how do you mean by preamp output?

how i position 'T-amp'? It's like ordinary amplifier?
*
cRazYee, it's unusual that you cannot achieve high volume using the audio output from your Mcbook directly to your Aego m. Are you sure your software volume controls are not set too low?

The internal sound card of your Mcbook consists of a DAC plus a preamp (a very low powered amplifier which boost the signal to a level which is acceptable to a `power' amplifier). The audio out socket of the Mcbook is linked to the preamp.

If you are interested in getting better sound quality.....use an external DAC (AKA external sound card). Sorry, this thread does not deal with that particular component of the sound system.

Yes, you are right...the T-amp is like an ordinary amplifier. It is usually positioned between the pre-amp and passive speakers.
jazzy939
post Mar 5 2009, 12:39 PM

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bro March,
You're good! thumbup.gif biggrin.gif
March05
post Mar 5 2009, 02:15 PM

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blush.gif blush.gif blush.gif blush.gif
dylanhaydenshuiyo
post Mar 5 2009, 05:59 PM

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kww,

not sure what cap. maybe need to open then only know smile.gif

overall, i am quite satisfy. nvrmind let me fully run in for 100hours first. then see how it goes.


yc,

ur opinion restore my faith, so no need to to adjust telinga tongue.gif

btw i used sansui cdp also



to mod? i need to start to learn some eletronic & electrical basic first tongue.gif

T-Amp sifus,

me totally zero in diy & mod stuff, so bear with me on stoopid q's blush.gif

a) how does this t-amp work?

b) what is cap & function

c) what is resistor & function

d) things & skills needed to start diy ? sound really stoopid doesnt it blush.gif

ok will start to do some reseacrh on net too.


kww
post Mar 5 2009, 07:00 PM

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dylan, you can just snap a picture of the t-amp and post it here.

About the mod, you can go back to page 1, xtrom and jazzy give a lot of guide. Check out YC blog also.
Y.C.
post Mar 5 2009, 09:23 PM

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Kww, I'm fine but the same could not be said of our country's economy which is going to hit many of us soon. Don't worry too much on the warming up phenomenon if you can’t really tell as ignorance is bliss. I'm not able to zoom down the probable culprit(s) to your speakers' hiss if it's indeed caused by your T-amp. I believe it doesn't disturb your listening and DVD watching sessions.

Dylan, Your list of questions is long. Yes, do research before some further forum discussions. The NOS Sansui CD-X310 cdp at RM300 is excellent value.

TSxtorm
post Mar 5 2009, 09:43 PM

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hi guys, long time no chat biggrin.gif thanks for keeping this thread alive and ansering the Q. just back from a shot holiday

QUOTE(dylanhaydenshuiyo @ Mar 5 2009, 05:59 PM)
kww,

not sure what cap. maybe need to open then only know  smile.gif

overall, i am quite satisfy. nvrmind let me fully run in for 100hours first. then see how it goes.
yc,

ur opinion restore my faith, so no need to to adjust telinga  tongue.gif

btw i used sansui cdp also
to mod? i need to start to learn some eletronic & electrical basic first  tongue.gif

T-Amp sifus,

me totally zero in diy & mod stuff, so bear with me on stoopid q's  blush.gif

a) how does this t-amp work?

b) what is cap & function

c) what is resistor & function

d) things & skills needed to start diy ? sound really stoopid doesnt it  blush.gif

ok will start to do some reseacrh on net too.
*
the cap im using is Y.C. hahahaha, the value for money mention by jazzy939 on the last thread. but its 3.3uf instead, just a little bit more bass and slightly tame highs
other then tht i didnt change anything else

if you are not into diy, i think the current setting is good enough for now.
bsl555
post Mar 5 2009, 10:57 PM

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QUOTE(Y.C. @ Mar 5 2009, 09:23 PM)
The NOS Sansui CD-X310 cdp at RM300 is excellent value.
*
Its many times better build than those sub RM200 play everything n anything DVD player.
It crossed my mind to acquire one for general use without being fussy or particular about any of its sonic deficiencies if any. smile.gif
GodLuvSxS
post Mar 6 2009, 01:14 AM

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Hi guys, heard that if adding preamp to T-Amp will help increase the "pushing" power of T-Amp? My friend got a piece of TA2024 based t-amp, just that he found not enough juice for his speaker, so I'm helping him to ask for advice here biggrin.gif
jazzy939
post Mar 6 2009, 08:04 AM

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The T-Amp on it's own is a power amplifier. A simple pot will work as a 'preamp' to a certain extend. March05 is having a 'simplistic preamp' that merely consists of a pot in a housing with the necessary sockets tongue.gif
I have tried using a commercial pre-amp with it and also DIY preamps. Again, depending on your system configuration and your listening needs.. You have to find one that can satisfy your listening pleasure. I ended up with a buffer preamp (DIY) that really balanced the sounds rather well. wink.gif

This post has been edited by jazzy939: Mar 6 2009, 08:07 AM
dylanhaydenshuiyo
post Mar 6 2009, 09:38 AM

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hi everybody,

manage to find the T-Amp thread v1. I forgot that xtorm had mentioned it to me during cod. blush.gif

a lot of info. not sure can digest or not tongue.gif

anyway, will take my time to read abt it.

thx & happy long weekend !! rclxm9.gif
cRazYee
post Mar 6 2009, 11:13 AM

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QUOTE(March05 @ Mar 5 2009, 12:27 PM)
cRazYee, it's unusual that you cannot achieve high volume using the audio output from your Mcbook directly to your Aego m. Are you sure your software volume controls are not set too low?

The internal sound card of your Mcbook consists of a DAC plus a preamp (a very low powered amplifier which boost the signal to a level which is acceptable to a `power' amplifier).  The audio out socket of the Mcbook is linked to the preamp.

If you are interested in getting better sound quality.....use an external DAC (AKA external sound card). Sorry, this thread does not deal with that particular component of the sound system.

Yes, you are right...the T-amp is like an ordinary amplifier. It is usually positioned between the pre-amp and passive speakers.
*
so getting a t-amp put in better my com and aego m doesn't help right?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=190290775108
this is bargain
sorry for late sharing
March05
post Mar 6 2009, 03:29 PM

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QUOTE(cRazYee @ Mar 6 2009, 11:13 AM)
so getting a t-amp put in better my com and aego m doesn't help right?
*
You said it. biggrin.gif Not unless you want to hear a fair bit of added distortion, and risk creaming the Aego m's built in amp and maybe the drivers as well.

That's a nice complete TA2024 and good price too. You're thinking of bringing it in?
Y.C.
post Mar 6 2009, 03:52 PM

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QUOTE(cRazYee @ Mar 6 2009, 11:13 AM)
US$31 is not the "Buy Now Price" but rather the highest bidding price recorded.
TSxtorm
post Mar 9 2009, 01:12 PM

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wow 31usd is damn cheap....with power supply?

but thts bidding tho biggrin.gif

dylan slowly read and understand then, thts part of the fun, you will enjoy your sub 1k system for some times i think smile.gif

i will acquire my metal casing this saturday mayb something bigger, so tht it will not look like toys when i go to my friends shop biggrin.gif

maybe some good speaker terminal too, for those 2 item i think it will cost me more then rm100 sad.gif
jazzy939
post Mar 10 2009, 10:45 PM

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xtorm,
Where are you getting your casing and speaker terminals?
I can assure you, it's all money well spent! wink.gif


QUOTE(xtorm @ Mar 9 2009, 01:12 PM)
....
i will acquire my metal casing this saturday mayb something bigger, so tht it will not look like toys when i go to my friends shop biggrin.gif

maybe some good speaker terminal too, for those 2 item i think it will cost me more then rm100 sad.gif
*
TSxtorm
post Mar 13 2009, 05:37 PM

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yea i guess so..smile.gif

just stated work today, been having fever for the last 4 days....

hope tomorrow im all good and able to shop around jalan pasar....else goto make it next week then...


Added on March 13, 2009, 6:24 pmahem ahem

news of the day

bellow is the much famous ta2020 tongue.gif
this is the normal version not the deluxe, deluxe is expensive both hardware and shipping fees....

included is the switch with light, input cable and power cable
user posted image

rm135 included shipping, no thts not half, but more then half of a charlie nod.gif


This post has been edited by xtorm: Mar 13 2009, 06:24 PM
jazzy939
post Mar 14 2009, 12:20 AM

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Looking good! thumbup.gif
Not a bad price too! wink.gif

BTW, saw our TA2024 at NIXIE selling for a price of, [brace yourself] RM168! shocking.gif
TSxtorm
post Mar 14 2009, 05:17 PM

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wow...tht even more expensive then my ta2020, what a good margin
gabanyayaya
post Mar 14 2009, 06:14 PM

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QUOTE(xtorm @ Mar 13 2009, 06:37 PM)
yea i guess so..smile.gif

just stated work today, been having fever for the last 4 days....

hope tomorrow im all good and able to shop around jalan pasar....else goto make it next week then...


Added on March 13, 2009, 6:24 pmahem ahem

news of the day

bellow is the much famous ta2020 tongue.gif
this is the normal version not the deluxe, deluxe is expensive both hardware and shipping fees....

included is the switch with light, input cable and power cable
user posted image

rm135 included shipping, no thts not half, but more then half of a charlie  nod.gif
*
T-amp with a heat sink....this is tempting.....

You better start working for the bulk bro...I guees lots of Tripath klans here will be interested with it...

With ample or watt this amp sure can 'rok'.......

This post has been edited by gabanyayaya: Mar 14 2009, 06:15 PM
TSxtorm
post Mar 14 2009, 07:37 PM

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not forgetting those sexy input cap smile.gif

yea will be starting a bulk soon, but each bulk im taking 5 pieces only due to weight and kinda worry abt custom stuff...
gabanyayaya
post Mar 14 2009, 09:21 PM

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QUOTE(xtorm @ Mar 14 2009, 08:37 PM)
not forgetting those sexy input cap smile.gif

yea will be starting a bulk soon, but each bulk im taking 5 pieces only due to weight and kinda worry abt custom stuff...
*
nothing to worry about customs actually....i've been receiving so many packages and parcels from China before without any problem.....just ask the chinese supplier declare you stuff as gift and you're ok....chinese people are so good in doing business unless if the package is in extra heavy duty......the local customs might gets itchy to explore inside the box...
hsk
post Mar 14 2009, 10:10 PM

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how much for the deluxe version?
TSxtorm
post Mar 14 2009, 11:14 PM

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around rm200, and each bulk i can only take 3 of it bcos of the weight

anyway i might take ta2020 normal and 1 ta2020 deluxe mix for the 1st bulk

due to some issue im having financial problem now, so ill try to do it as soon as im stable.

deluxe have this extra
- Overload indication LED

- Power indication LED

- Relay power indication LED

- Much more space for capacitors, and standard audio grade 400V 2.2uF caps included.

- Delayed power on to eliminate the “pop” effect and for speaker protection

- Fully shielded output inductors

- Volume control on-board

- DC offset adjustment with high precision trimmers

This post has been edited by xtorm: Mar 15 2009, 06:12 AM
hsk
post Mar 15 2009, 12:28 AM

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i'm interesting to take the deluxe version.pm me when u start the bulk.
TSxtorm
post Mar 15 2009, 06:13 AM

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ok will do, hopefully i can settle my stuff this coming week
March05
post Mar 17 2009, 11:20 AM

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After a 6 hour marathon on Sunday, I finally got my TA2024 up and running. Straight forward DIY job on the casing, no caps mod yet, as I want to assess the unit in the stock mode first.

I need to bring up one question which has been asked before....but I still don't understand the answers, sorry folks. blush.gif What is the ideal volume pot range to use with this? I'm currently using a JP alpha 100K log volume pot on it, and I find that I have to crank it to near maximum before the volume is loud enough to my satisfaction. At maximum, the T-amp goes dead, and I have to power it off and on again for it to work. Is this normal?


Y.C.
post Mar 17 2009, 12:38 PM

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Finally, March. biggrin.gif

JP Alpha 100KΩ volume pot is a linear potentiometer and effectively a voltage divider as rightfully pointed out by LittleGhost in this thread some time ago. According to him, using a higher value means having higher input impedance, noise and tracking. He advocates the use of low value pots so long that noise and tracking capability are not compromised. On this argument and info from this webpage (although meant for step attenuators), I'd tend to believe that a 20KΩ or 50KΩ volume pot is more suited for the TA2024 T-amp application.

The TA2024 chip has an in-built protection circuitry. It shuts down by its own when input voltage exceeds 14V DC as in the case of Lai when his SMPS went bust earlier on. Not too sure when it is overdriven though.

March05
post Mar 17 2009, 01:19 PM

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Y.C., thanks for that link. There is one paragraph there that approximates the question I was trying to ask...:
2. Choose the value to match the input impedance (of what the stepped attenuator will be controlling). This applies to both preamplifiers and power amplifiers when the stepped attenuator is to be installed at the input. If necessary, check your owner's manual to find the the rated input impedance of your unit. Or contact the manufacturer.
Does anyone know what the input impedance of this TA2024 unit is?

I've got both types of the JP 100KΩ volume pot, linear and logarithmic, purchased from Nixie. I'm using the log one, as this seems to give a smoother spread of volume control.

Would using a lower value (as advocated by LittleGhost) than the rated input impedance mean that the maximum volume achieved is higher, and still provide a lower noise threshold? I would think that logically, noise would increase with amplification. Hence my confusion.


Added on March 18, 2009, 1:58 pm
QUOTE(March05 @ Mar 17 2009, 01:19 PM)
Does anyone know what the input impedance of this TA2024 unit is?
*
Sorry, sorry, sorry for asking this again, jazzy bro already gave the answer earlier here: http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/855281/+351. Aiyah you so boring lah, March05.

This post has been edited by March05: Mar 18 2009, 01:58 PM
leeshock
post Mar 23 2009, 10:33 PM

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Hi,

I've been following this thread for while, and I would like to try to DIY the amp.

Xtorm, r u still taking bulk orders? If yes, I am interested in 2 units of the TA2024.
jazzy939
post Mar 24 2009, 08:02 AM

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leeshock,
The thread here should helps.
At any rate, IF xtorm is unable to supply, I have two unused units if you're interested.
viscy
post Mar 26 2009, 10:44 AM

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Can a T-amp power a tekton 4.1 or 4.5? I'm interested in the speaker if this cheap amp can power it nicely. But I noticed the power rating on the TA2024 is very low. Is the 2020 better? The 4.1 driver is rated 15W and the 4.5 is rated 45W, more interested in the 4.5 as the frequency response extends lower.
leeshock
post Mar 29 2009, 11:27 AM

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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Mar 24 2009, 08:02 AM)
leeshock,
The thread here should helps.
At any rate, IF xtorm is unable to supply, I have two unused units if you're interested.
*
Thanks Jazzy939,

I hv already PM Xtorm. I will let u know if I need the unused units from u.
Dybre
post Apr 2 2009, 06:54 PM

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just received the complete T-amp board built by xstorm. i would say this little wonder is very good. very portable and light. shocking.gif
leeshock
post Apr 30 2009, 08:26 PM

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Just got the T-amp from Xtorm today. Now I am listening to it playing Tsai Chin, while typing this.

First impression
Unbelievably smooth, clear and detailed coming from this little amp. The instruments and voice sounded natural and transparent. I am very impressed and like the other reviewers said - the quality is comparable wt a lot of other more expensive amps.

I was initially worried that 8 watts was not enough. But it is enough to drive my old 4ohm speakers with ease. Surprising good and defined bass coming from this amp.

No regrets here.
Y.C.
post Apr 30 2009, 09:51 PM

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I'd say: Listening is believing! We are no reviewers and are not involved in the hifi trade but a bunch of audio buffs (enthusiasts) who got really excited by its sonics especially at its modest price. It may not be for everyone or beginners but for those who have been exposed to audio proper will appreciate it a lot more. What more could I say? Enjoy. biggrin.gif
Paca
post Apr 30 2009, 10:26 PM

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who owner of this amp live in jb or near UM?
i want go n try when i have the time wink.gif
TSxtorm
post May 1 2009, 03:24 AM

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QUOTE(viscy @ Mar 26 2009, 10:44 AM)
Can a T-amp power a tekton 4.1 or 4.5? I'm interested in the speaker if this cheap amp can power it nicely. But I noticed the power rating on the TA2024 is very low. Is the 2020 better? The 4.1 driver is rated 15W and the 4.5 is rated 45W, more interested in the 4.5 as the frequency response extends lower.
*
sorry to not notice ur question ealier. form a site which is selling this speaker it mention
QUOTE
If you’re a hi-fi perfectionist, a discriminating audiophile, or a simple music lover - you will be pleasantly surprised! If you’re running SET, SS, Tri-Path… you can’t go wrong with these little speakers! They are precisely musical and correct sounding! Discover: Picture-perfect imaging, near perfect impulse response, near perfect group delay, near perfect phase, near perfect impedance, near perfect polar response…are you getting my point here?! All of this produces a wonderfully realistic soundstage that can be listened to for hours on end with absolutely no fatigue. Can't beat these at twice the price.


so i guess for 4.1 it is more then enough.

as for 4.5 i think it can power it nicely since it is a fulrange speaker, ment to be use without crossover smile.gif btw same word as the 4.1 from thier own site http://www.tektondesign.com/model45.htm

QUOTE(leeshock @ Apr 30 2009, 08:26 PM)
Just got the T-amp from Xtorm today.  Now I am listening to it playing Tsai Chin, while typing this. 

First impression
Unbelievably smooth, clear and detailed coming from this little amp.  The instruments and voice sounded natural and transparent.  I am very impressed and like the other reviewers said - the quality is comparable wt a lot of other more expensive amps. 

I was initially worried that 8 watts was not enough.  But it is enough to drive my old 4ohm speakers with ease.  Surprising good and defined bass coming from this amp. 

No regrets here.
*
grad u love it smile.gif what speaker is tht? high sensitivity?
let it run in for 50 hours or so to really enjoy the smothness. all the tamp i built the input cap is replace with a 3.3uf Y.C.(not to mix up with the Y.C. forumer here tongue.gif ) cap tht is much recomended by our sifu jazzy939 smile.gif


QUOTE(Y.C. @ Apr 30 2009, 09:51 PM)
I'd say: Listening is believing! We are no reviewers and are not involved in the hifi trade but a bunch of audio buffs (enthusiasts) who got really excited by its sonics especially at its modest price. It may not be for everyone or beginners but for those who have been exposed to audio proper will appreciate it a lot more. What more could I say? Enjoy. biggrin.gif
*
thanks man for the nice word, nice of u to drop by smile.gif another sifu here, be sure to visit his blog!!!
http://finetone.blogspot.com/


Added on May 1, 2009, 3:28 am
QUOTE(Paca @ Apr 30 2009, 10:26 PM)
who owner of this amp live in jb or near UM?
i want go n try when i have the time wink.gif
*
i supply some t-amp to johor before, but bare board, not sure if ther eis ny around.

but for the price, u cant go wrong smile.gif

This post has been edited by xtorm: May 1 2009, 03:29 AM
leeshock
post May 1 2009, 07:06 AM

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I have several set of speakers. For the T-amp, I've paired it wt Rogers DB101. Sensitivity 92db, 4ohms. Haven't use the speaker for a while and the amp suit it.

Later I'll try it wt the Mission 780. Just to see the difference.


Added on May 1, 2009, 7:13 amIn case u are wondering how it look like or sound like, u can refer the following:-
http://www.canuckaudiomart.com/details/489...db101_speakers/
http://www.soundonsound.com/sos/1997_artic...ogersdb101.html
http://www.hometheaterreview.com/equipment...iewed002296.php


Added on May 1, 2009, 7:30 amhttp://www.mhennessy3.f9.co.uk/rogers/db101.htm

This post has been edited by leeshock: May 1 2009, 07:30 AM
jazzy939
post May 1 2009, 09:21 AM

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leeshock,
looking forward to your feedback.
thanks in advance! biggrin.gif
kww
post May 9 2009, 12:58 AM

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Helping a friend here, he just got himself a vinyls and want to use t-amp as amplifier. He need to build a pre-amp for it to work, can anyone provide me a schematic of the pre-amp?
Thanks.
jazzy939
post May 9 2009, 03:58 AM

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Presumably that your friend has a proper turntable setup, firstly he needs a MM (Moving Magnet) phono preamplifier! This is to initially amply the tiny voltages generated by the phono cartridge. This amplified voltage will then need to be fed to the preamplifier before the power amplifier.

phono preamp-> preamplifier -> power amplifier

Since you asked about the preamplifier, I'll assumed that your friend already has a phono preamp.

A preamplifier can be passive (no power required) or active (powered).
From simple to complex, circuits can be searched (google) to your heart content. Some are simple enough to be built by using strip or veroboard or making your own PCB.

Here are some example I got by 'googling' : simple preamplifier circuits:

http://www.scribd.com/doc/2174706/Two-Tran...plifier-Circuit
http://www.hobbyprojects.com/A/preamplifiers.html
http://www.elecfree.com/electronic/simple-...-by-transistor/

Good luck!



QUOTE(kww @ May 9 2009, 12:58 AM)
Helping a friend here, he just got himself a vinyls and want to use t-amp as amplifier. He need to build a pre-amp for it to work, can anyone provide me a schematic of the pre-amp?
Thanks.
*
TSxtorm
post May 13 2009, 09:13 AM

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vinyl and t-amp would be a good combination i think...

Y.C. just visited ur site, wah the speaker seems nice tongue.gif
Y.C.
post May 13 2009, 12:21 PM

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Thank you xtorm. Which pair of speakers? The Pioneer pure-malts? Yes, they are splendid to my ears. smile.gif
Tak-one
post May 13 2009, 12:27 PM

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QUOTE(Y.C. @ May 13 2009, 12:21 PM)
Thank you xtorm. Which pair of speakers? The Pioneer pure-malts? Yes, they are splendid to my ears.  smile.gif
*
Yea..i like malt too....sensation for my taste bug too.
Y.C.
post May 13 2009, 12:33 PM

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QUOTE(Tak-one @ May 13 2009, 12:27 PM)
Yea..i like malt too....sensation for my taste bug too.
*
You meant the malt beers? Ssshhhh... we should not be discussing that here! laugh.gif
kww
post May 13 2009, 04:11 PM

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YC, how much is that pair cost?
By the way the hissing sound of the t-amp gone after about 4months of run in. Quite amazing that it need so much time to run-in (about 2hr per day).
jazzy939
post May 13 2009, 06:07 PM

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kww,
I never had any problem with hissing sound from any of my T-Amps.. hmm.gif

kww
post May 13 2009, 07:28 PM

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jazzy, mine is mixing jalan pasar components (1uF, 10kohm, 0.47uF) with the quality one, i think that is the problem. Anyway it still sound sweet.
If I got time I will do another board with quality components.
jazzy939
post May 13 2009, 08:08 PM

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No wonder! tongue.gif
Oh yeah.. there's always room for improvements wink.gif

QUOTE(kww @ May 13 2009, 07:28 PM)
jazzy, mine is mixing jalan pasar components (1uF, 10kohm, 0.47uF) with the quality one, i think that is the problem. Anyway it still sound sweet.
If I got time I will do another board with quality components.
*
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post May 20 2009, 12:46 AM

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QUOTE(xtorm @ Mar 13 2009, 05:37 PM)
yea i guess so..smile.gif

just stated work today, been having fever for the last 4 days....

hope tomorrow im all good and able to shop around jalan pasar....else goto make it next week then...


Added on March 13, 2009, 6:24 pmahem ahem

news of the day

bellow is the much famous ta2020 tongue.gif
this is the normal version not the deluxe, deluxe is expensive both hardware and shipping fees....

included is the switch with light, input cable and power cable
user posted image

rm135 included shipping, no thts not half, but more then half of a charlie  nod.gif
*
OMFG .... 1 for me !
TSxtorm
post May 21 2009, 09:47 AM

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haha ok

hopefully all works out and ill be ordering the stuff end of month, probably get it at mid of may smile.gif
Dybre
post May 21 2009, 02:24 PM

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QUOTE(xtorm @ May 21 2009, 09:47 AM)
haha ok

hopefully all works out and ill be ordering the stuff end of month, probably get it at mid of may smile.gif
*
they look really great.. i wonder how would it sound as compared to T2024? do you mean it would arrive mid of june instead of may? smile.gif
jazzy939
post May 21 2009, 06:01 PM

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It would be 'louder' for sure... tongue.gif
hsk
post May 21 2009, 11:48 PM

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QUOTE(xtorm @ May 21 2009, 09:47 AM)
haha ok

hopefully all works out and ill be ordering the stuff end of month, probably get it at mid of may smile.gif
*
great to hear that.don't forget,i want the deluxe version. rclxms.gif
TSxtorm
post May 22 2009, 09:19 AM

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aisk supposingly mid of junela...hahah sorry....

ya i remember smile.gif
dylanhaydenshuiyo
post May 23 2009, 08:16 PM

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ta 2020 going to arrive in mid june? drool.gif

xtorm,

any complete built version for lazy people like me ? blush.gif

btw my t-amp coming to 80hours now..reposition the speaker and the bass improved laugh.gif






nk0030
post May 23 2009, 09:39 PM

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I am in Jalan Pasar today. I am surprise to find the T amp board at Nixie. The price listed is TA2024 RM68.00 and TA2020 is RM105.00. Not sure it is the same board or not. I do bought 1 pcs of the TA2024 board to play around snce it is quite reaonable price.
Dybre
post May 23 2009, 09:42 PM

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QUOTE(nk0030 @ May 23 2009, 09:39 PM)
I am in Jalan Pasar today. I am surprise to find the T amp board at Nixie. The price listed is TA2024 RM68.00 and TA2020 is RM105.00. Not sure it is the same board or not. I do bought 1 pcs of the TA2024 board to play around snce it is quite reaonable price.
*
really? does it look the same as posted by xtorm?
nk0030
post May 23 2009, 09:54 PM

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QUOTE(Dybre @ May 23 2009, 09:42 PM)
really? does it look the same as posted by xtorm?
*
I am not sure. Just by looking at the picture of the TA2020 board, it is almost same. You can go and check it out too.
jazzy939
post May 24 2009, 12:12 AM

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TA2020 at NIXIE? That's new! tongue.gif
TSxtorm
post May 24 2009, 04:11 AM

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wah if 105 better go there buy man..my cost higher...

hmmm i tot his ta2024 was selling at rm160? i saw it myself too..
jazzy939
post May 24 2009, 09:20 AM

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xtorm.
You were right. From 160 to 68? What gives? hmm.gif
chchyong89
post May 27 2009, 07:24 PM

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hehe, t-amp on desktop;s noisy power supply... electrica noise is there, but can't hear it if you don't put your head near the speaker... tongue.gif

haha.. quite cute
user posted image

driving with my super old pioneer bookshelf
user posted image
tongue.gif

This post has been edited by chchyong89: May 27 2009, 07:24 PM
jazzy939
post May 27 2009, 07:44 PM

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chchyong,
The T-Amp(TA-2024) better than the GainClone ah? Saw your ad. for sale tongue.gif
chchyong89
post May 27 2009, 08:22 PM

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Sometime it's depend la, not every type of song lm3886 can beat the ta2024.. in my opinion, Tamp is better in music, GC is better in human's vocal... ^^

actually i selling my br2 also.. funding for something not related to audio laugh.gif

This post has been edited by chchyong89: May 27 2009, 08:28 PM
TSxtorm
post Jun 18 2009, 01:20 AM

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pics for the ta2020 selling in nixie smile.gif

yea they really drop the price of the ta2024 to rm68...haha probably some 1 told them online selling cheaper biggrin.gif


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image Attached Image
jazzy939
post Jun 18 2009, 08:16 AM

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So its RM105 for the TA2020? Someone better tell them the same thing, maybe it would drop even further! laugh.gif
TSxtorm
post Jun 18 2009, 10:32 AM

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haha i believe any cheaper then rather keep it...kakaka
Paca
post Jun 18 2009, 10:42 AM

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ta2024 or ta2020 is bttr for music?
jazzy939
post Jun 18 2009, 04:10 PM

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Good question Paca!
It's all depends on your interpretation of 'music'.
The TA2024 is 'lacking' in the low end bass department
It's sufficient to drive a reasonably high efficiency speakers to good listening levels.. In a nutshell, it is known to have a good medium and high frequencies reproduction. Vocals are superb. Check previous thread reviews.
If you're into ROCK and need volumes of bass then its the TA2020! biggrin.gif
Paca
post Jun 18 2009, 04:21 PM

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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Jun 18 2009, 04:10 PM)
Good question Paca!
It's all depends on your interpretation of 'music'.
The TA2024 is 'lacking' in the low end bass department
It's sufficient to drive a reasonably high efficiency speakers to good listening levels.. In a nutshell, it is known to have a good medium and high frequencies reproduction. Vocals are superb. Check previous thread reviews.
If you're into ROCK and need volumes of bass then its the TA2020! biggrin.gif
*
well i guess the TA2020 suits me well brows.gif
TSxtorm
post Jun 26 2009, 11:09 AM

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RIP MJ

your are missed tro out the world


Added on June 26, 2009, 11:12 ami once heard a guy say this to the the sales person in a HIFI show, why would i pay rm100k for a HIFI system if it cant play Michael Jackson...

hahahaha

This post has been edited by xtorm: Jun 26 2009, 11:12 AM
hsk
post Jun 26 2009, 07:35 PM

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i just bought a ta2020 from nixie.but no manual.so.any sifu know which port to connect to volume pot plus the value for volume pot?thks
jazzy939
post Jun 27 2009, 12:09 AM

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hsk,
how much did you paid for the TA2020?
No manual? Come to think of it, even the TA2024 did not have one! biggrin.gif
The board will have markings for the connections.. (I hope!) tongue.gif
hsk
post Jun 27 2009, 02:46 AM

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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Jun 27 2009, 12:09 AM)
hsk,
how much did you paid for the TA2020?
No manual? Come to think of it, even the TA2024 did not have one! biggrin.gif
The board will have markings for the connections.. (I hope!) tongue.gif
*
rm105.yes.no manual.but the board have some marking like LIN-GND-RIN/VCC-GND/ROUT &LOUT.
I thinking to change the 4700uf16v capacitor.is the vishaybc capacitor good for audio.or can i change to higher value like 6800uf25v or 50v? rclxub.gif
jazzy939
post Jun 27 2009, 06:45 AM

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hsk,
LIN=Left IN (LEFT audio IN)
RIN=Right IN (RIGHT audio IN)
GND=GROUND

VCC=+ve power supply
GND=GROUND (-ve power supply

ROUT=Right OUT (Speaker OUT, RIGHT)
LOUT=Left OUT (Speaker OUT, LEFT)

What cap is that?

This post has been edited by jazzy939: Jun 27 2009, 06:46 AM
hsk
post Jun 27 2009, 10:04 AM

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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Jun 27 2009, 06:45 AM)
hsk,
LIN=Left IN (LEFT audio IN)
RIN=Right IN (RIGHT audio IN)
GND=GROUND

VCC=+ve power supply
GND=GROUND (-ve power supply

ROUT=Right OUT (Speaker OUT, RIGHT)
LOUT=Left OUT (Speaker OUT, LEFT)

What cap is that?
*
thks for the info.
i found this vishaybc cap. at farnell wedsite.
TSxtorm
post Jun 30 2009, 11:00 AM

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after some nego-ing and showing the pics to my supplier, they now realise the manufacturer tht they ask to assemble this board is playing behind thier back, they never sold any to malaysia yet

best i can do is rm98 for the board with power cable and signal cable included shipping fees that is....

but, i goto order more then 10 pieces

any1 game?

QUOTE(xtorm @ Mar 13 2009, 05:37 PM)
user posted image
*
hsk
post Jun 30 2009, 08:47 PM

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walau-ah.i buy already then u say can get cheaper then nixie ah!!!!!
leeshock
post Jul 1 2009, 08:05 AM

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QUOTE(xtorm @ Jun 30 2009, 11:00 AM)
after some nego-ing and showing the pics to my supplier, they now realise the manufacturer tht they ask to assemble this board is playing behind thier back, they never sold any to malaysia yet

best i can do is rm98 for the board with power cable and signal cable included shipping fees that is....

but, i goto order more then 10 pieces

any1 game?
U can count me in for 1 unit.
jazzy939
post Jul 1 2009, 09:55 AM

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me too! wink.gif
TSxtorm
post Jul 1 2009, 01:30 PM

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QUOTE(hsk @ Jun 30 2009, 08:47 PM)
walau-ah.i buy already  then u say can get cheaper then nixie ah!!!!!
*
sorryla....haha not cheaper alot also, and u dont have to waitmah...

i 1st told them no respondmah....then 2nd time with pic only they respond to me.


ok thts 2 smile.gif

erm im resigning my job, and probably jobless after tht, so i cant stock alot of this, ill go ahead once i reach 7 or 8, and ill need some depositlo

just worry if nixie decide to lower the price again then im stuck...hahaha
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post Jul 2 2009, 01:14 PM

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xtorm, mind i ask what different between th unit you bring in compare to nixie one? Interest to get one also.
TSxtorm
post Jul 2 2009, 07:40 PM

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its the same, thts why my supplier wonder also, its his own design.
jazzy939
post Jul 2 2009, 07:44 PM

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Another 'copy'? hmm.gif


QUOTE(xtorm @ Jul 2 2009, 07:40 PM)
its the same, thts why my supplier wonder also, its his own design.
*
TSxtorm
post Jul 2 2009, 07:49 PM

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haha the manufacturer giving free copy biggrin.gif

meaning its tht good actually....hahaha

they are looking for new manufacturer now.
kww
post Jul 2 2009, 09:50 PM

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Xstorm, you mean every equipment Is the same?
nk0030
post Jul 2 2009, 10:35 PM

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QUOTE(kww @ Jul 2 2009, 09:50 PM)
Xstorm, you mean every equipment Is the same?
*
I am not sure whether it is excactly same or not, if judge by the photo post by Xstorm, I think it is 99% same include the big orange capacitor. After some thought, I make up my mind to try the TA2020 chip amp and see the performance of it since it is not very expensive. I think in the appreciation of our local vendor to bring in some nice diy kit for us to play aorund and hope they will bring in more items in the future I will go to nixie to buy the TA2020 tomorow.
jazzy939
post Jul 4 2009, 08:08 PM

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I was at NIXIE this afternoon.
Saw the TA2020 beside the TA2024.. looks pretty good.. RM105 alright.. was contemplating to buy it or not... laugh.gif
junchoon
post Jul 7 2009, 08:42 AM

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hi guys, interested to have a tt? i have a new player, and would like to know how T-Amp will sound with it.

how about this sunday? or next saturday?

cheers,
wps
wui223
post Jul 7 2009, 09:27 AM

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QUOTE(junchoon @ Jul 7 2009, 08:42 AM)
hi guys, interested to have a tt?  i have a new player, and would like to know how T-Amp will sound with it.

how about this sunday?  or next saturday?

cheers,
wps
*
hi bro. long time since last meeting, how's everything going?
junchoon
post Jul 7 2009, 10:06 AM

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QUOTE(wui223 @ Jul 7 2009, 09:27 AM)
hi bro. long time since last meeting, how's everything going?
*
hello there,

i am fine, i moved the audio system to a slightly larger room after the last meeting. put the equipments on proper audio racks.

yesterday just got a new player, itching to know how it sounds with t-amps and jazzy939 new pre amp.

do drop by if u can. smile.gif

how about u? got new speakers by now?

cheers,
wps


wui223
post Jul 7 2009, 12:12 PM

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QUOTE(junchoon @ Jul 7 2009, 10:06 AM)
hello there,

i am fine, i moved the audio system to a slightly larger room after the last meeting.  put the equipments on proper audio racks.

yesterday just got a new player, itching to know how it sounds with t-amps and jazzy939 new pre amp.

do drop by if u can.  smile.gif

how about u?  got new speakers by now?

cheers,
wps
*
haha, i'm busying at uni nowadays. Now using Tannoy speakers, got it 2nd hand from a forumer. Bedroom space is limited, cant do much on audio.
junchoon
post Jul 7 2009, 03:55 PM

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QUOTE(wui223 @ Jul 7 2009, 12:12 PM)
haha, i'm busying at uni nowadays. Now using Tannoy speakers, got it 2nd hand from a forumer. Bedroom space is limited, cant do much on audio.
*
good to know lah. r u using t-amp to drive the tannoys?? r they floorstanders? smile.gif

cheers,
wps
wui223
post Jul 7 2009, 04:29 PM

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QUOTE(junchoon @ Jul 7 2009, 03:55 PM)
good to know lah.  r u using t-amp to drive the tannoys??  r they floorstanders?  smile.gif

cheers,
wps
*
yes i use T-amp, tannoy mercury if not mistaken. bookshelf spekers. now still looking for suitable speaker stand, previously put on bookshelves lol
jazzy939
post Jul 7 2009, 09:35 PM

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Hey JC,
Is the TT Session ON ah? You might as well announce it here! wink.gif



QUOTE(junchoon @ Jul 7 2009, 10:06 AM)
hello there,

i am fine, i moved the audio system to a slightly larger room after the last meeting.  put the equipments on proper audio racks.

yesterday just got a new player, itching to know how it sounds with t-amps and jazzy939 new pre amp.

do drop by if u can.  smile.gif

how about u?  got new speakers by now?

cheers,
wps
*
TSxtorm
post Jul 7 2009, 09:45 PM

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QUOTE(kww @ Jul 2 2009, 09:50 PM)
Xstorm, you mean every equipment Is the same?
*
from the looks of it, yes.

tt session? im in this time biggrin.gif
jazzy939
post Jul 7 2009, 10:58 PM

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Oh yes..!

Date 18th. July 2009 (Saturday)
Place: junchoon's place
Time: TBA
What's showing?
JC's new CDP will be the main show.
A 'passive preamp' on test etc..

xtorm, having your TA2020 there would be nice! wink.gif




QUOTE(xtorm @ Jul 7 2009, 09:45 PM)
from the looks of it, yes.

tt session? im in this time biggrin.gif
*
junchoon
post Jul 8 2009, 12:53 AM

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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Jul 7 2009, 10:58 PM)
Oh yes..!

Date 18th. July 2009 (Saturday)
Place: junchoon's place
Time: TBA
What's showing?
JC's new CDP will be the main show.
A 'passive preamp' on test etc..

xtorm, having your TA2020 there would be nice! wink.gif
*
i am located in Putra Heights.

anytime after 10AM should be fine.

the new CDP is SCD-XA5400ES. u can bring along yr own CDP as well for comparison. i know jazzy will bring his.

the passive pre is the super-duper jazzirized design, from... jazzy!!! smile.gif

of course a good dose of the T-Amps from u guys. i will have the jazzirized BoomTube for comparison as well.

at the end, we are still talking about music here. do bring along yr fav software. if possible, try to select tracks that are not too long. i suggest compile song tracks to minimized disc change.

cheers,
wps
wui223
post Jul 8 2009, 04:06 AM

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im out of town at the date, guess i miss gathering again...pls take photos to share afterwards ;(
junchoon
post Jul 8 2009, 09:09 AM

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QUOTE(wui223 @ Jul 8 2009, 04:06 AM)
im out of town at the date, guess i miss gathering again...pls take photos to share afterwards ;(
*
the date is not fixed. i wanted to have it this saturday (11th July) but jazzy cannot make it. how about sunday? 19th of July. i think 12th also possible.

cheers,
wps
dylanhaydenshuiyo
post Jul 8 2009, 04:57 PM

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Hi everyone,

How's things ?

wah! TT for T-Amp clan la! tongue.gif

by invitation or all can join ? tongue.gif

junchoon,

ur new cdp is it from Sony? Is it SACD player ? Sorry if I am wrong smile.gif
gabanyayaya
post Jul 8 2009, 08:40 PM

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wahaha....!!! luck arrr you jazzy...a TT for jazzy....so what's cooking this time around besides new CDP...???
leeshock
post Jul 8 2009, 09:10 PM

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Anyone can join?

jazzy939
post Jul 8 2009, 11:06 PM

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leeshock,
I think anyone is welcome. Time to get to know the members here.. wink.gif

gabanyayaya,
where got for me lah.. some of my stuffs will be on 'test'.. basically we're testing out JC's new CDP..
junchoon
post Jul 8 2009, 11:20 PM

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answers, in sequence:

yes, it is a Sony SACD player.

i think only new pre-amp from jazzy, besides the cdp. unless u guys have new stuff to show lah.

i don't think there is restriction on who can join - tt only mah, not uni entrance lah - but my audio room can only hold about 5 comfortably, can maybe squeeze to 7. the HT/living room can hold more loh.

cheers,
wps

gabanyayaya
post Jul 9 2009, 12:22 AM

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QUOTE(jazzy939 @ Jul 9 2009, 12:06 AM)
leeshock,
I think anyone is welcome. Time to get to know the members here.. wink.gif

gabanyayaya,
where got for me lah.. some of my stuffs will be on 'test'.. basically we're testing out JC's new CDP..
*
i suppose your passive pre is ready then.....
leeshock
post Jul 9 2009, 05:08 AM

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Then I will bring my tube pre-amp.
junchoon
post Jul 9 2009, 08:28 AM

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QUOTE(gabanyayaya @ Jul 9 2009, 12:22 AM)
i suppose your passive pre is ready then.....
*
it better be ready by then!!! smile.gif

it will be a tricked out super-duper pre with RCAs and balanced XLR I/Os. was hoping he can make it so that i can drive two stereo amps at the same time. i have two rotel rb970bx from bro-in-law for testing. so jazzy will HAVE to make it on time!!! smile.gif

just joking, leeshock will have a tube pre mah, so take yr time lah jazzy.

cheers,
wps

TSxtorm
post Jul 9 2009, 02:18 PM

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hmm im thinking of bringing my father's tube pre as well smile.gif DIY too haha

ok abt the ta2020, how abt this guys, make it end of month, or ealier august for the tt, ill order the ta2020 this week and probably get it in around 2 weeks time.

ill built 1 unit ready for audition during the tt (hopefully run in too) and at the mean time sell the ta2020 at rm90 each during the tt?

really really good price and effort im putting in now...haha tongue.gif

hope you guys support me, else ill be stuck with them which is not ideal for me right now...biggrin.gif
junchoon
post Jul 9 2009, 02:55 PM

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if end of month then susah lah, kliav around loh.

july 18th is still good for me atm. early aug also can.

if u guys have a current AV amp with HDMI input, u can bring as well, since the Sony can send raw DSD via its HDMI output. my AV no HDMI lah.

cheers,
wps
gabanyayaya
post Jul 9 2009, 07:32 PM

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QUOTE(junchoon @ Jul 9 2009, 03:55 PM)
if end of month then susah lah, kliav around loh.

july 18th is still good for me atm.  early aug also can.

if u guys have a current AV amp with HDMI input, u can bring as well, since the Sony can send raw DSD via its HDMI output.  my AV no HDMI lah.

cheers,
wps
*
i think you should forget the KLIAV lah....this TT is much better than that RM10 sucking exhibition.....trust me.. biggrin.gif

BTW rb970bx is a good amp....I have one too...
TSxtorm
post Jul 9 2009, 07:36 PM

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btw with so many system around

we can make it into 2 groups, 1 in the living room 1 in the hifi room biggrin.gif

now who gona bring an extra pair of speaker?

This post has been edited by xtorm: Jul 9 2009, 07:37 PM

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