CZ 135mm F1.8 on a900

Aoshi_88: I was gonna point it out - your shots are a wee bit low in contrast and dark. I'm guessing you're on one of those darn bright LCDs (which are technically too bright - print any shot and you'll see that a CRT can reach 'correct' gamma if the brightness is set correctly, while an LCD at its darkest setting may not reach correct gamma, so you need to change the gamma in your display settings.)

kareem: Thanks!

cheefai7: I have the Crumpler... strap padding also. Good stuff for RM50!

luvjim: Thanks!

0168257061: But then at F2.8 it will be just like any other F2.8 lens shot. However, you have a valid point about stopping down to improve the clarity of bokeh, like in this shot:



CZ135mm F1.8, 1/80s, ISO1600 on a900

padfoot: Nice ones!

sarahliane: Iz S.P.W.L.?


24mm F2.0 DIY tilt-shift, 1/200s ISO1600 on a900

beehawk: Pictures here:
http://www.glaringnotebook.com/Default.asp?id=1052

And here's another:


Vivitar 24mm F2.0 DIY tilt-shift on a700

technophile! Long time no see! Wow you jumped in straight to a F1.4. Congratulations!



Minolta 50mm F1.4 at F2.0, 1/40s ISO1600 on a900

Minolta 70-210mm F4 "beercan", 210mm F4 on a900

Lens: Sony Carl Zeiss Sonnar T* 135mm F1.8 ZA
Camera: Sony Alpha 900
Exposure: 1/4000s
Aperture: F1.8
ISO Speed: 200

Brilliant stuff again, achew! I love how you got a blue sky background.

edOgawa: Thanks!

tHe^CuLpRit: To avoid confusion, I always say "darker aperture" or "brighter aperture". Bigger or smaller depends on whether you look at it as F2 or F/2 (which is technically correct, but I don't even like to type it like that.)



Lens: Sony Carl Zeiss Sonnar T* 135mm F1.8 ZA
Camera: Sony Alpha 900
Exposure: 1/80s
Aperture: F1.8
ISO Speed: 1600

Front objects being out of focus would usually look rather ugly - it would look like a blurry half-transparent mess that's blocking her. And we can already see the expression on her face and identify that she is having fun, yes?

achew, I prefer the previous bubble shot due to the clean-ness of the OOF discs; the second one shows why I don't think of the Tamron 90mm F2.8 Macro too highly in terms of bokeh - it can cause these bright-lined OOF discs.

CZ 135mm F1.8 on a900

Shot at F10 1/100s ISO200

CZ 135mm F1.8, at F1.8 on a900

Carl Zeiss 135mm F1.8 on A900 at F1.8 1/2500s ISO200

achew you need to stop down to reduce the effect of the flash blowing out. Makes for better bokeh too!

Sigma 17-35mm F2.8-4 EX at 17mm F2.8 ISO200 with DRO Level 5 on a900.

50mm F1.4 at F1.4 on a900

aaron1kee, the depth of field of a 50mm F1.4 lens on a full-frame camera at that distance is very shallow. On the original picture, the left-side edge of the spectacle frame is in focus but towards the middle of the spectacle frame it is already out of focus. I could use a darker aperture say F2.8 but then I would get too much detail which may or may not be flattering for a portrait shot.


135mm F1.8 at F2.0 on a900

Sony Carl Zeiss Planar T* 85mm F1.4 ZA on a900

Sony 18-70mm F3.5-5.6 DT at 70mm F16

CZ 135mm F1.8 at F1.8 on A900

0168257061, thanks!

kimurastanley: Er... not as much as the camera. *shy*



CZ 135mm F1.8 at F2.2 on A900