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 How long should change engine oil?

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Ultima
post Oct 9 2008, 10:53 AM

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but if using 10w-30, izzit the oil will easily bcome heated? bcoz the oil is thinner, n u r driving big cc cars, if long distance, the oil will heated faster rite? izzit good for our engine? sweat.gif
Esky
post Oct 9 2008, 11:08 AM

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Lube technology has advanced a lot over the years, so now, even ?W-30 can withstand heat better. FYI Honda SC also uses ?W-30 oil on the new Accords (2.0 & 2.4L), according to my mechanic friend working for them.

Lighter oil actually make pumping them around the engine easier, so the power losses is reduced, and in some cases, FC may improve slightly.

Hikaru Kenshin
post Oct 9 2008, 12:38 PM

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QUOTE(Esky @ Oct 9 2008, 08:57 AM)
NA means naturally aspirated, no forced induction like turbocharging or supercharging.

That's what the spare part shop staff and mechanics have been telling me too! biggrin.gif But I still use it w/o any problem.

It depends on the condition of yr engine, if it's good then it's possible that you can use ?W-30. What viscosity oil are u using now? Let's say you're using ?W-40 now and there's no noticeable oil consumption, then u can try ?W-30 and monitor the oil level. If there's still no oil consumption, then yr engine is in good condition and suitable for ?W-30 grade oil.
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Thanks for the explaination hahah....hmm.... using 20-50 now haha...lol

QUOTE(Esky @ Oct 9 2008, 11:08 AM)
Lube technology has advanced a lot over the years, so now, even ?W-30 can withstand heat better. FYI Honda SC also uses ?W-30 oil on the new Accords (2.0 & 2.4L), according to my mechanic friend working for them.

Lighter oil actually make pumping them around the engine easier, so the power losses is reduced, and in some cases, FC may improve slightly.
*

I see.

How do you differentiate mineral and semi syn? By reading the ?W-?? or what? icon_question.gif

Ultima
post Oct 9 2008, 01:47 PM

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if got synthetic, its not mineral ler tongue.gif
Esky
post Oct 9 2008, 02:45 PM

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QUOTE(Hikaru Kenshin @ Oct 9 2008, 12:38 PM)

How do you differentiate mineral and semi syn? By reading the ?W-?? or what? icon_question.gif
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You can't really tell whether an oil is mineral, semi- or fully-syn from the viscosity rating alone... maybe except those 0W-? ones, which I haven't seen any mineral ones. We need to read the label to know whether it's mineral, semi- or fully-syn.

Hikaru Kenshin
post Oct 9 2008, 03:20 PM

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Ohh okie =D

Thanks for the info hehee....
MobyDick
post Oct 10 2008, 10:51 AM

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If your existing engine since new has been run-in more than 10K km with a specific engine oil viscosity, I'd suggest you stick to the similar one but if you wanna try a lighter one maybe to improve FC & engine responsiveness, than can try switching to the Kancil 10/30 ones or maybe to full-syn if you're already on 10/30. If there aren't any serious oil losses(say less than 250ml) after 5K km, than can continue using it.

Take note that once a specific engine has been optimumly run-in to its relative 'oil-gap' between piston/rings & engine sleeve, there's no point in goin for a lighter viscocity oil unless you do not mind the frequent top-ups within your schedule service intervals.
Hikaru Kenshin
post Oct 10 2008, 02:11 PM

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I see.....hmm...will try smile.gif

Thx
Ultima
post Oct 10 2008, 02:25 PM

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tht one only apply to the second number rite?

if lets say using 15w-40 b4, n change to 10w-40 now, its ok rite?

as the viscocity is similar, i think its ok sweat.gif
clawhammer
post Oct 10 2008, 03:48 PM

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Google.com and it makes you understand many things from viscosity level to what fully/semi synthetic means smile.gif
Esky
post Oct 10 2008, 04:37 PM

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Just afraid that the overwhelming amount of info may confuse more than inform! biggrin.gif
Hikaru Kenshin
post Oct 10 2008, 10:45 PM

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I second dat haha
redkyuubi
post Oct 11 2008, 07:05 PM

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recommended for normal/semi i think 5000km... ehehehe

but im using normal mineral(5000km)... and i plus X-1r in it... normally i change before it reach 5000... around 4800+- i change it..

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