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> Need to Upgrade My Kancil Alternator, Headlights dim when BASS hits

kopiOkaw
post Oct 7 2008, 01:15 AM


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Hello ICE sifu... After doing some research based on previous threads, i think the best choice for me to solve my dimming headlights whenever bass hits through my subwoofers is changing my car alternator to a higher ampere... If i'm not mistaken, stock kancil alternator is about 40A... Im not sure what alternator is suitable for an upgrade? Do alternator comes from any L2 / L2s / L5 engine got higher ampere? Please do give advice... By the way, here's my current ICE setup...

HU: Pioneer DEH-6950lb
AMP: Prokick F1-400 160Wx2 (Bridged and wired my 2x12" subs as paralel to make it 2 OHM)
SUB: 2x12" American Autocraft (Model: ARP6412)
Speakers: Kicker EX60 2 Way (Powered by HU)
Cables: Using 4 AWG power cables for amp & Monster cables RCA from HU to AMP

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ckmoy007
post Oct 7 2008, 01:21 AM


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maybe adding a cap will help??
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kopiOkaw
post Oct 7 2008, 01:28 AM


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QUOTE(ckmoy007 @ Oct 7 2008, 01:21 AM)
maybe adding a cap will help??
*
From the research i done from other website, they said that adding a cap will not help if the car electrical system is not upgraded e.g: battery / alternator...
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mADmAN
post Oct 7 2008, 04:32 AM


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how bad is the dimming??

id recommend a cheaper way first... voltage stabilizer + grounding cables.

if still doesnt work then only think about the alternator...and u dont really lose out with the VS + grounding as its a good mod.
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kopiOkaw
post Oct 7 2008, 07:20 AM


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QUOTE(mADmAN @ Oct 7 2008, 04:32 AM)
how bad is the dimming??

id recommend a cheaper way first... voltage stabilizer + grounding cables.

if still doesnt work then only think about the alternator...and u dont really lose out with the VS + grounding as its a good mod.
*
How bad ar? sweat.gif I'm a bass head person... When my subs hits hard, my headlights will go like "disco lights"... It dims according to the bass beat... sweat.gif I have plan to do VS + grounding for future... Seems likely i need to do it sooner to solve my problem... Thanks for the recommendation bro... thumbup.gif
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altecphoto
post Oct 7 2008, 07:35 AM


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QUOTE(kopiOkaw @ Oct 7 2008, 07:20 AM)
How bad ar? sweat.gif I'm a bass head person... When my subs hits hard, my headlights will go like "disco lights"... It dims according to the bass beat...  sweat.gif I have plan to do VS + grounding for future... Seems likely i need to do it sooner to solve my problem... Thanks for the recommendation bro... thumbup.gif
*
cool what tongue.gif


but dangerous.
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jimmylim85
post Oct 7 2008, 08:49 AM


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How old is your battery? Using NS40 or upgrade to NS60?

I'm also driving Kancil, have upgraded to NS60 to meet my demand on ICE. Last time i have problem using Pioneer DEH1550 using my almost aged battery, when bass hit, my headlight and interior light starts to flicker. When i've replace a brand new battery, no flicker at all even bass hit hard.

Perhaps you can check your battery first. Btw today car battery doesn't really last long, my Yuasa MF battery lasted 1 year and half sad.gif

Adding capacitor is good for SPL because it can provide a sustain current to your amplifier but as you mention that bad electrical system could hamper its performance.
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kopiOkaw
post Oct 7 2008, 12:40 PM


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Im using NS40 GP battery... I think its around 1 year old now... sweat.gif Maybe the problem might come from my battery too... I ignore of changing it coz i still can start the car very well... Will the NS60 battery fit to Kancil stock battery compartment?


Added on October 7, 2008, 12:43 pm
QUOTE(altecphoto @ Oct 7 2008, 07:35 AM)
cool what tongue.gif
but dangerous.
*
Blast my subs during daytime ok la... thumbup.gif but at night sweat.gif people will notice my 'disco lights' and laugh at me... doh.gif

This post has been edited by kopiOkaw: Oct 7 2008, 12:43 PM
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jimmylim85
post Oct 7 2008, 06:14 PM


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Of course can fit nicely. Just buy the ns60 plastic battery bracket around rm 30.
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MobyDick
post Oct 8 2008, 10:30 AM


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QUOTE(kopiOkaw @ Oct 7 2008, 12:40 PM)
Will the NS60 battery fit to Kancil stock battery compartment?

Blast my subs during daytime ok la... thumbup.gif but at night sweat.gif people will notice my 'disco lights' and laugh at me... doh.gif
*
Your problem will still exist after replacing to a NS60 battery if you do not upgrade your existing alternator & improve your grounding, charging/supply wires. tongue.gif

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kopiOkaw
post Oct 8 2008, 12:13 PM


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QUOTE(MobyDick @ Oct 8 2008, 10:30 AM)
Your problem will still exist after replacing to a NS60 battery if you do not upgrade your existing alternator & improve your grounding, charging/supply wires. tongue.gif
*
Regarding NS60 battery... Which one to choose? Maintenance free type or non-maintenance type? Any issue using maintenace free type?
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MobyDick
post Oct 8 2008, 01:51 PM


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I would go for the better brand lead-acid ones like Yokohama given the choice of your current application.
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kopiOkaw
post Oct 8 2008, 02:41 PM


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Since changing the battery to NS60 alone wont help if I dont upgrade my alternator... Can anyone suggest what alternator do i need to find? Bigger ampere of course but from what car model? Or is there any aftermarket alternator is meant for Kancil use?
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mADmAN
post Oct 8 2008, 03:41 PM


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ve had problems with alternator before in my old car....basically i just told the mechanic to get the biggest baddest alternator thats able to fit into the car....

so i think u shouyld ask thr same thing to ur mechanic biggrin.gif



as for battery...get wet cell....im using dry cell for my kelisa and have to change around once a year.... last time using wet cell with my current ice it lasted for 2 years....i changed the wet cell oso coz i gatal wanna try dry cell.....

also they say that wet cell provides more power for ice...

waiting for my current dry cell to die before going back to wet cell...
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MobyDick
post Oct 8 2008, 04:09 PM


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Saw many Kancil before already replace with 60amps one without any mounting mods bought from chop-shop, dunno from which ori-donor car.

Regarding commercial automotive batteries available at the moment are as follows; Dry Cell, Maintainence Free & lead-acid type.
Would not re-comend maintainence-free batteries as our climate & heat from our car's engine bay within KL jams will surely kill them sooner than lead-acid ones other than those vehicle which do not have their batteries in the engine compartment.
Dry Cell batteries(Marine-Battery) which have much higher 'CCA' are still too expensive for commercial mass import sales in Malaysia. Even this type of battery are also heat sensitive & proven to encounter extreame 'drop' once it encounters hot enviroments.
So it's our ever reliable cheap lead-acid battery to stretch our $$ in the long run. If possible have one the 'biggest' to be install within the engine compartment with slight mods to the current mounts.


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craziechild
post Oct 15 2008, 02:50 AM


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go to your mech and ask for the same sized alternator with bigger ampere. alternator mod are essential before you change the batteries and stuff. changing or adding battery is a good move but at current rate you are adding more stress towards your alternator than saving it from work loads.
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thien211
post Oct 19 2008, 01:41 PM


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QUOTE(kopiOkaw @ Oct 7 2008, 01:28 AM)
From the research i done from other website, they said that adding a cap will not help if the car electrical system is not upgraded e.g: battery / alternator...
*
add cap will help, buy high charge rate 1 of cos. as i know, kancil not enough power for high current le, so, go modify the alternator and add battery.
remember add cap if u dun hv


Added on October 19, 2008, 1:42 pm
QUOTE(kopiOkaw @ Oct 7 2008, 07:20 AM)
How bad ar? sweat.gif I'm a bass head person... When my subs hits hard, my headlights will go like "disco lights"... It dims according to the bass beat...  sweat.gif I have plan to do VS + grounding for future... Seems likely i need to do it sooner to solve my problem... Thanks for the recommendation bro... thumbup.gif
*
haha, that's fun, add some colour light then really disco lo. emm, cap will also help, to smoothing your circuit and protect your amp(mayb).


Added on October 19, 2008, 1:45 pm
QUOTE(jimmylim85 @ Oct 7 2008, 08:49 AM)
How old is your battery? Using NS40 or upgrade to NS60?

I'm also driving Kancil, have upgraded to NS60 to meet my demand on ICE. Last time i have problem using Pioneer DEH1550 using my almost aged battery, when bass hit, my headlight and interior light starts to flicker. When i've replace a brand new battery, no flicker at all even bass hit hard.

Perhaps you can check your battery first. Btw today car battery doesn't really last long, my Yuasa MF battery lasted 1 year and half sad.gif

Adding capacitor is good for SPL because it can provide a sustain current to your amplifier but as you mention that bad electrical system could hamper its performance.
*
battery helps a lot, careful if the battery too strong until your electrical component of your car boom...

but better use a extra battery only for ICE, to works better ma.


Added on October 19, 2008, 1:49 pm
QUOTE(mADmAN @ Oct 8 2008, 03:41 PM)
ve had problems with alternator before in my old car....basically i just told the mechanic to get the biggest baddest alternator thats able to fit into the car....

so i think u shouyld ask thr same thing to ur mechanic biggrin.gif
as for battery...get wet cell....im using dry cell for my kelisa and have to change around once a year.... last time using wet cell with my current ice it lasted for 2 years....i changed the wet cell oso coz i gatal wanna try dry cell.....

also they say that wet cell provides more power for ice...

waiting for my current dry cell to die before going back to wet cell...
*
wa, wet > dry? compare which to which first?

stinger battery very good, why dun try(but expensive).
advantage(dry battery) is can put in-car bcos no leakage.
also high charging rate (depend) cracking rate..


Added on October 19, 2008, 1:52 pm
QUOTE(MobyDick @ Oct 8 2008, 04:09 PM)
Saw many Kancil before already replace with 60amps one without any mounting mods bought from chop-shop, dunno from which ori-donor car.

Regarding commercial automotive batteries available at the moment are as follows; Dry Cell, Maintainence Free & lead-acid type.
Would not re-comend maintainence-free batteries as our climate & heat from our car's engine bay within KL jams will surely kill them sooner than lead-acid ones other than those vehicle which do not have their batteries in the engine compartment.
Dry Cell batteries(Marine-Battery) which have much higher 'CCA' are still too expensive for commercial mass import sales in Malaysia. Even this type of battery are also heat sensitive & proven to encounter extreame 'drop' once it encounters hot enviroments.
So it's our ever reliable cheap lead-acid battery to stretch our $$ in the long run. If possible have one the 'biggest' to be install within the engine compartment with slight mods to the current mounts.
*
ya, this is disadvantage.. abt over 50degree drop over hundred amp..
but how to heat up to 50degree? if really so hot that might be the wiring got problem and careful lo.
actually lead-acid battery enough liao, alternator need upgrade la.


Added on October 19, 2008, 1:54 pm
QUOTE(craziechild @ Oct 15 2008, 02:50 AM)
go to your mech and ask for the same sized alternator with bigger ampere. alternator mod are essential before you change the batteries and stuff. changing or adding battery is a good move but at current rate you are adding more stress towards your alternator than saving it from work loads.
*
also can add extra alternator if can, kancil not sure got space or not, try ask workshop guy help u smile.gif


Added on October 19, 2008, 1:55 pm
QUOTE(craziechild @ Oct 15 2008, 02:50 AM)
go to your mech and ask for the same sized alternator with bigger ampere. alternator mod are essential before you change the batteries and stuff. changing or adding battery is a good move but at current rate you are adding more stress towards your alternator than saving it from work loads.
*
also can add extra alternator if can, kancil not sure got space or not, try ask workshop guy help u smile.gif

This post has been edited by thien211: Oct 19 2008, 01:55 PM
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sentinal3_16
post Jul 20 2011, 06:17 PM


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Im facing the same problem now. Which alternator to get for kancil? The 60A alternator is from which car?
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howiechoo
post Jul 20 2011, 10:02 PM


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QUOTE(sentinal3_16 @ Jul 20 2011, 06:17 PM)
Im facing the same problem now. Which alternator to get for kancil? The 60A alternator is from which car?
*
try do the big 3 upgrade and proper grounding first....
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PowerHouse
post Jul 26 2011, 04:56 PM


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change ur alternator to a bigger power, change a new n60 batt and add capasitor rated 2 and make sure u use bigger power cable al the way to the caps and amp.. will solve.. my wira was like that b4 running dual sub.
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upontheriversky
post Oct 11 2011, 01:38 AM


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howie choo got a point there, big 3 upgrade is the way to go first, if voltage still drop then consider bigger alternator and battery

get knukonceptz 4 gauge cable for the big 3 wiring upgrade, it is a true 4 gauge cable having more strands than famous stinger brand. stinger is 1666 while knukonceptz got 2058 strand so it almost act like 3 gauge wire

jalan pasar caliber 4 gauge wire is thinner than stinger so definitely not a fight with knukonceptz

This post has been edited by upontheriversky: Oct 11 2011, 01:38 AM
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zennn
post Oct 11 2011, 04:01 PM


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sometimes the one with more strand not using copper wires, just normal metal ones..
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upontheriversky
post Oct 12 2011, 03:04 AM


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oh yea thats possible too..never thought of that really
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