Hello detailing kakis. Some premium car detailing products for your cars from US unavailable locally. Branded Meguiars, Cobra Microfibers to pamper your cars. New thread below with details. PM me if interested.

http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1562657

Besides good car products like Optimum, Duragloss, Meguiars, Collinite, don't forget the importance of wash mediums like quality microfibers to ensure no scratch/swirls instill when using 2 bucket wash system.

This post has been edited by msk: Sep 15 2010, 02:35 PM

Stains on windscreen/window is like dirt in car paint. If left long it will etch in making harder to remove. Advice is wipe off immediately with quick detailers(QD like ONR 1:16) and quality microfibers when you see it especially tree/bird droppings. You can try using any existing polish you have to try first if it comes out.

I use Meguiars Glass Cleaner for maintenance but any OTC ones will do. If you're talking about it already etch in, you may try to rub with some glass polish (Eg. Carplan has) to try. Usually will compound with rotary may help. If still don't work, you're talking in dangerous territory using acid like Tomcat to remove but people discourage in windscreen as may cause hazing. One advice is not to use any household glass cleaner inside the car as ammonia can loosen tint.

Sanding on oxidized plastic headlamps I know can but unsure about windscreen.. However, don't do that for new car's headlamps as usually have protective coating that will be removed causing constant upkeep needed else will yellow. Old cars oklah as already yellow anyway

WTS: Cobra/Meguiars http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1562657

This post has been edited by msk: Sep 18 2010, 01:01 PM

Even new cars, you should do full detailing to ensure your paint last. Eg. it could be in caryard for months and there are tons of contaminants when transport like brake dust, acid rain, tar, etc.

Car wash: Self car wash if possible as auto car wash will scratch your paint.. Even those hand wash you should check their rags or wash cloth. If you go premium, it will be hundreds might as well self wash.
2 bucket system(1 for shampoo never dirty; 1 for rinse change when too dirty) with grit guards if possible with premium car wash Meguiars, Optimum, Duragloss else at least OTC premium like Kit, Permaglass, etc.

Clay: Cheapest OTC are permaglass at Jusco approx $30 3 types depending on car condition. Use diluted shampoo or best ONR 1:64 as claylube. Else can use quick detailers like Meguiars Mist n Wipe, etc.

Polish: Don't confused with machine compound or polish which some shops do.. that will reduce clearcoat and instill cobwebs/swirls if not done correctly. One step will be AIO like Permaglass Sealant & Meguiars Cleaner Wax which polish & seal.. OTC ones though say polish or wax, they're all AIO with either more cleaners or more LSP.. Polish will be to surface prep the paint ready to be sealed.

LSP: Last step product either sealant(synthetic) or wax(carnauba): Both pros & cons.. Sealants usually last longer so popular but give a candy coat hard shell look which some like.. looks good on white. Carnauba popular as give deep look especially to dark cars.. Some examples are Meguiars NXT 2.0 Tech Wax is actually a synthetic sealant while Meguiars Gold Class is Carnauba Wax. No right or wrong. Some like to put sealant first and then at next wash top up with wax to get best of both worlds.

Quick detailers: Considered rinseless car wash that mist & wipe off. Eg. Meguiars Ultimate quick Detailer(UQD)

Spray Waxes: Topper wax when used between wash until next full LSP . Eg. Meguiars Ultimate Quick Wax(UQW)

For all above, please use quality microfibers to prevent unnecessary marrings while detailing. Happy detailing!!
WTS: Cobra/Meguiars http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1562657

This post has been edited by msk: Sep 28 2010, 10:59 PM

OTC Metallic Wax including Kit will put less cleaning agent so more suited for new car.
Normal OTC Wax will usually have more polish agent to remove oxidation more for older cars.
Regardless named OTC Wax/Polish, they're more like AIO. Hope this helps.

WTS: Letting go personal car detailing products
http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=1562657&hl=

This post has been edited by msk: Oct 23 2010, 01:40 PM

Paste last longer with liquid as long as it don't separate should be fine. Must shake from time to time.. should last years also

WTS Meguiars/Cobra: http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=1562657&hl=

Bro, you may want to check the RM$66 clay set here only 1 bar not 3 so really not that affordable.
I got the claykit last time but finally now only use the clay with ONR 1:64 as more economical.
As bro KC suggested, get PG clay easily available from Jusco. Cheers

Black n Decker just for LSP or at most AIO polish which doubt it can remove any swirls.
Paint Cleaner will chemically clean contaminants but will not remove swirls which are fine scratches on the paint. Will need abrasive polish or compounds depending on severity.

By hand Meg range, try SwirlX(fineline scratch) -> if not enough ScratchX2.0 (light scratch) -> Ultimate Compound but too harsh you may remove more clearcoat which may result in clearcoat failure.
Will be very hard/tiring by hand. Optimum polish/compound will let bro kc comment as haven't tried yet.

Most swirls come from improper washing or bad car detailing machines. Use 2 bucket wash & quality microfibers to minimize.

WTS Meguiars/Cobra: http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=1562657&hl=

This post has been edited by msk: Nov 26 2010, 09:01 AM

Wow, great write-up by bro KC good to see Optimum works by hand also.. Must try

Though most products clear coat safe, my point is using any products too much may deplete the clearcoat eventually.. just be aware.
To get swirls or scratches out, you're basically removing the clearcoat till level.. so by hand much harder

WTS Meguiars/Cobra: http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=1562657&hl=


This post has been edited by msk: Nov 27 2010, 08:56 AM

Read the LSP(wax/sealants) instructions, most carnauba paste wax indicate damp. Liquid waxes usually dry but lots like to spray some QD on the applicator.
Learn by experience but if not stated, use dry and see if works, then mist a bit QD and try.

During LSP application, pads should NEVER be dirty. If they are usually the LSP have some cleaning agents (AIO) or the car is not washed clean yet making it dangerous for waxing causing swirls. Removal cloth should be relatively clean if dirty meaning you need to polish the car.

Wash with APC, dishwashing liquid, detergents as needed. Agitate a bit and better to let it rinse cleanly dry before reusing if need dry applicator.
Any dirt or contaminats left will scratch your car thus lots of US detailers "throw away" the once used applicator to not take the risk.
He he.. I think not in Malaysialah.. just clean it well, if in doubt, don't use it on paint. Cheers

WTS: Cobra/Meguiars http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=1562657&hl=

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Added on December 21, 2010, 2:04 pmHe he.. besides professional Opticoat as suggested by bro KC, I'll suggest to treat the windscreen same as paint, ie don't let it too dirty until contaminants etch in.
Else, it will have watermarks in windscreen that may be even harder to remove than paint etching which can be removed by polish or compounds

This post has been edited by msk: Dec 21 2010, 02:04 PM

Wow. great job, you really hardcore, wonder can change to bigger smaller plates?

WTS: Premium car detailing products http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=1562657&hl=

This post has been edited by msk: Dec 24 2010, 06:23 AM

Ha ha.. true by hand somemore will kill though possible One suggestion is never get SC to help wash or polish as their pads/towels won't be clean.
The swirls created they wont' care & they'll just mask it with fillers which will go away revealing the true conditions later.

When DIY detailing, key is making sure out tools & wash methods are not instilling swirl unnecessary as the effort to remove them will cost time & effort.
Though we can level the clearcoat easily with machines, without ptg we won't know if too thin & clear coat failure may result.
Better to take care right from start: prevention is better than cure Cheers.

WTS Premium car detailing: http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=1562657&hl=

This post has been edited by msk: Dec 29 2010, 03:11 PM

Happy New Year 2011!! Happy holiday detailing!!

WTS: http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=1562657&hl=

A quick comment of using aggresive polishing/compound you have to know removing scratches/swirls is just levelling the clearcoat/paint till flat. So, each time you're successful you're removing paint which may eventually end in clearcloat failure, hazy which comes back often. Surprisingly recent new cars are showing very low paint readings of <100 on PTG. Dark cars swirls seen easier while white is barely noticible which I suggest to not be too worry about it focusing on right detailing technique.

So focus on good tools(Premium wash mitt, MF towels, foam applicator) that comes with good carwash techniques like 2 bucket system. Key is cleaning the tools often so that no grit is left when your mitt/towels/applicator touch the paint during wash & polish.

Same with machines, make sure your pads are clean up between usage when clog up as contaminants will swirl up your car like most cheapo car wash does..

My suggestion, do it right with correct car wash to minimize ADDING swirls. Using a chemical cleaner like most AIO polish or Cleaner Wax first. Only if needed go aggresive polish or compound from least aggresive first; SwirlX before ScratchX2.0 before Ultimate Compound.

BTW, after you polish you better apply LSP (sealant or wax) later unless it's an AIO else no protection.
Nothing last for 6 months here though touted in US as lousy wax max a few weeks, better ones 1-2 months and key to extending between polish with spray wax topper AFTER a good carwash.

WTS: Cobra/Meguiars http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=1562657&hl=

This post has been edited by msk: Jan 8 2011, 12:07 AM

Ha ha.. seconded that tchtax Blacksunday, tried looking at your pictures but cannot see the haze you mean unless your car have been polished before, then the funny light wave are holograms ie the products didn't have time to finish correctly. Another is if compounded before, there may be compounding haze that's needs a polishing pad to restore the gloss but don't seem in this case. Anyway, take care of our rides with good quality products to not instill swirls, that's key.

WTS: Premium Cobra/Meguiars http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1562657

This post has been edited by msk: Jan 13 2011, 09:19 AM

Hmm hologram by hand?? I'm not sure as SwirlX is SMAT as usually holograms by machines using DAT (diminishing abrasives).. Another possibility touch wood is you're too agressive and the haze is onset of clearcoat failure but unlikely as SwirlX is quite mild compare with Ultimate compound. If send to shop, ensure reputable as it may just cause you heartache as they will give massive swirls to your car as their polishing pads won't be as clean as DIY enthusiast. Good luck.

Michael, after a good carwash, use your hand as guide, can you feel any bits of contaminants, if not then your car most probably is clean. Polishing action do clean up contaminants sometimes. Extreme ones even use plastic bags to check but doing that I constantly get unevenness which can never be gone so I just use hand as guide.

Meg clay is sometimes non grabby. Another possibility is you glide too lightly.. should have slight pressure as wiping BUT ensure sufficient claylube to not mar. You can try Permaglass ones as comparison..

WTS: Premium Cobra/Meguiars http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1562657

Merry Christmas & happy detailing everyone!

WTS: Premium Cobra/Meguiars http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1562657

You should clean the MF after every detailing session. ONR wash you'll expect the MF to be dirty as contaminants will be stuck to the cloth till you wash it in normal carwash or dishwasher like dawn. Don't mix cloths for different use per wash.

For normal carwash usually your dry cloth should always be clean while wash cloth or mitt should be able to clean when agitate. Hope you're using two bucket system one for wash which shampoo should be always clean while the other bucket is rinse can change water if too dirty.. I like to use the pat dry method using my Cobra Waffle Weave HD with center foam core last left.

Don't mix cloths for wash dry with polish lsp as will cause product cross contaminant. Usually lsp cloth won't be absorbent anymore for drying. Different cloth for different usage. Meg SS is all rounder good for polish removal as short nap. Cobra or higher gsm cloths I usually use for wash/dry or final buffing as longer nap safer.

Having premium MF is part of detailing as prevention is better than cure. My car of a few years has minimal lines and no swirls using two bucket system. Happy detailing!!

WTS: Premium Cobra/Meguiars http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1562657

This post has been edited by msk: Jan 2 2012, 07:20 PM