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 Car Detailing, How I did mine....

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sleepwalker
post Oct 5 2008, 11:55 PM

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QUOTE(clawhammer @ Oct 5 2008, 09:44 PM)
I have a stupid question. Assuming if you have a black car and you wash, polish, wax but a few days later, it gets dirty so you wash your car again. I suppose the wax wouldn't be there anymore so we re-apply the wax everytime? It sounds kind of weird ain't it? biggrin.gif
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A good wax job will last you up to 2 months, depending on how you take care of it and how you wash the car. If you look in the previous page you can see my car 3 weeks after a wax job in which I spent 15 mins with a quick detailier to buff up before going out. Wax does not get stripped off in just one wash. The place I go to does not use sponge to wash the car as it is not wax friendly. They use their bare hands to rub the car. Anyway, if you have a lot of wax on the car, there is no need to scrub hard to remove the dirt. Even the rain would clean the dirt off as nothing would stick to the car.
sleepwalker
post Oct 6 2008, 11:52 AM

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QUOTE(clawhammer @ Oct 6 2008, 10:34 AM)
Thanks bro smile.gif Which wax do you recommend? I heard about all these good brands but it's so hard to find. Any places to buy them?
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I'd rather leave the professional work to the pros as they would have access to better grades of waxes than those simple commercial products. Meg is good but the ones used by the pros would not be the same as the one you find on the shelves. Just like the Zymol waxes that used by Autospa and the amount of time put into my car, it would be better to let the pros do it. They have the manpower and the hours.

A wax job for me at Autospa takes 4 guys and 2 hours to finish. That is 8 man hours and for me to do it by myself, it is not worth the time.
sleepwalker
post Oct 6 2008, 02:21 PM

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QUOTE(Yukito @ Oct 6 2008, 12:04 PM)
Using microfibre cloth? Maybe you're rubbing too hard. It's only been like 2 months since u last did the polish O_o
It depends what you're going for. Long lasting or high gloss? How often are you willing to wax your car?
Can't really estimate car size from picture. Is it like Honda City size or Accord size?

Hrm funny lately quite a few peugeots coming in.....

sleepwalker one day you can try Mothers Wax, quite ok also and I think the difference is negliegeble. Can DIY
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It takes too long. The issue is not the type of wax but the time it takes. Every time I wax, they of course wash the car, then treat and prep the surface with surface cleaners, apply multiple coats of wax with 4 guys going around the car, wax on and wax off. Rather different procedure than most places where they apply the wax to the whole car and wait. Here they have all 4 guys wax on and wax off a few times overlapping each other's panels. Then comes the final wipe and then finish off with a last spray and wipe.
sleepwalker
post Oct 6 2008, 04:19 PM

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QUOTE(clawhammer @ Oct 6 2008, 02:57 PM)
Thanks sleepwalker and Yukito for the helpful information smile.gif How much does it costs for a whole treatment like this? If it only lasts for 2-3 months then it's a bit hard to justify the amount spent?

I prefer long lasting than more gloss and I don't mind waxing myself leisurely on a Sunday afternoon laugh.gif It doesn't have to be perfect but at least I'm able to see some difference and preserve the paint.
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That's the problem. Cost is RM160 and it's worth every cent to bring on the gloss and protection. The only DIY that I do is the quick detailing (15-20 mins) every 2 weeks to keep the wax as glossy as possible. That would also allow me to stretch the wax to about 2 months.


Added on October 6, 2008, 4:23 pm
QUOTE(Yukito @ Oct 6 2008, 03:20 PM)
2 - 3 months is almost unachievable in normal conditions. Most people ones only last 1 month. Unless you always park under the shade, its highly unlikely you'll go past 2 months.
If you are the kind to go for longer lasting then you can try coating. I also offer coating services. Lasts one year (guaranteed) for RM300. Coating are suppose to achieve the same purpose as wax but its raw materials are different. Instead of Carnauba Wax, coating can be based on fluorocarbon or teflon, etc.

I find that if you do a weekly routine of spray on Polish & Wax solution then wipe down, you can actually skip the surface prep step. Which makes the waxing itself not so difficult to do. I always find the surface prep step to be the most laborious
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It is achievable with proper maintenance. My car is out in the open 24/7 and the wax would last 2 months provided it gets a good layer of QD every couple of weeks. Also it must only be washed at Autospa weekly. Anywhere else and I can see them strip the wax bare with their strong shampoo and rough sponge.

Unfortunately, for darker cars, synthetic wax or coatings do not bring out the shine. No point having the protection when the car doesn't look like it has been protected at all.

This post has been edited by sleepwalker: Oct 6 2008, 04:23 PM
sleepwalker
post Oct 6 2008, 07:57 PM

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QUOTE(clawhammer @ Oct 6 2008, 04:47 PM)
You mean wash, gloss, wax and protection for RM160? Where is this Autospa?
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Glenmarie. www.autospa.com.my
sleepwalker
post Oct 6 2008, 10:23 PM

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QUOTE(clawhammer @ Oct 6 2008, 08:41 PM)
Ah, I know now because I pass by sometimes (the one beside Jalan Tun Razak) biggrin.gif I always thought it costs a bomb to get detailing done there but RM160 sounds reasonable to me.
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Ah yes, there is also the Tun Razak branch. Umm.. RM160 is only waxing as I have mentioned (although they do more than just wax). It is not polish and it is not detailing. I bought the detailing package for 3 details and that cost me RM1500. Individual detailing will cost more than RM600 without package.

This post has been edited by sleepwalker: Oct 6 2008, 10:25 PM
sleepwalker
post Oct 7 2008, 10:49 AM

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QUOTE(Yukito @ Oct 7 2008, 10:40 AM)
For that size a complete Polish (incl Wax) is RM350.
Its a coating that functions like wax but lasts for one year. I charge RM480 for a Honda City sized car (incl Polish & 1 yr guarantee)
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There is one thing that always intrigued me is the so called guarantee for coatings. How does one measure the coating? How does one warrant against it. How do you measure it when you say "guaranteed to last 1 year". You can't measure the shine and definitely can't use the size of the water beads as measurement for the warranty.
sleepwalker
post Oct 7 2008, 11:33 AM

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QUOTE(clawhammer @ Oct 7 2008, 11:17 AM)
I'm just as curious as well so the guarantee means we can always go back and get the re-coated for FREE? biggrin.gif If that's the case then I don't mind paying and come back every month laugh.gif
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This reminds me of my year 12 Physic teacher in Australia. We were doing some lab experiment and asked him for the current atmospheric pressure. Without looking at the gauge he just took a deep breath to measure the pressure and said.."About 1.02 bar".. ahahaha..

So in this case what do we do? Look at the shine and go? Hmm.. about 7 months of coating left? Umm.. rclxub.gif rclxub.gif rclxub.gif Or touch the panel and say "I've detected slightly more abrasion on the front bonnet than the side panels... ".. rclxub.gif rclxub.gif rclxub.gif rclxub.gif
sleepwalker
post Oct 7 2008, 05:28 PM

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QUOTE(Yukito @ Oct 7 2008, 03:56 PM)
Actually, for coating we do measure the presence of the coating by the water beading + smoothness. Waxes starts to breakdown with time, which disrupts surface tension thus the water beading. But the coating itself is rigid and flat, the water beading effect. If water beading is not there, we assume the surface is damanged/absent. Subsequently, we'll polish out the remnant coatings (if any) and then re-coat the surface.

As for shine, its really dependable on the conditions you subject it to. There was this MR-S that did the coating 3 months ago, the water beading and shine is great. But the shine at the front bonnet particularly is lacking as the car front is always subjected to exhaust from cars, oil stains from mamak stalls, etc. I did polished it and re-coat it for free out of goodwill. AFter that, I do a high speed wax for his bonnet everytime he comes for his weekly washes. But for other cars that I have done, the oldest a Civic (the VP of 8th Gen Civic Club) I did back in Apr, he's car still looks newly polished.
Materials meaning equipments + chemicals? I'm using SONAX brand chemical, Lake Country Pads, & Flex/Makita Machines. As for the worksmanship, me and my colleague were trained in Neuberg, Germany for a month at the SONAX HQ smile.gif

For an average Malaysian driver, the wax lasts one month yes. If you think that's too troublesome, I'll recommend the coating.
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This is why I asked how you measure the coating. Based on your answer above, that means the guarantee is worthless as you have no way to measure how much coating is left. Most people that use beading as a measurement would provide the actual size of the beading that is considered as 'effective', eg beading size must not exceed 1-2cm, etc etc.

So does your guarantee also subjected to conditions that the car is subjected to? The reason for your coating is longer lasting but your statement goes against that. 3 months and the front of the MR-S has lost the shine and you re-coated for free out of goodwill. SHouldn't that be re-coated as per 1 year guarantee?

After that you have to give the car a high speed wax every time he comes in for his weekly wash, that means speedwax every week. Now, if I did that to a normal wax job and give it a speed wax every week, it would be the same as your coating right? The shine is not going to disappear with that kind of treatment.

This is the reason why, until today, there is no such thing as coat once and last a long time. The only product I've seen that does that needs to remove a layer of the original clear coat and respray with their own teflon formula clear coat. That is guaranteed for 5 years but still require a quick monthly treatment of their special chemical to maintain the shine. However, this treatment is good only if you have a new car as older cars would have very uneven clearcoat for them to work on.

That is why I never believe that anything you wipe on the car will last up to a year.
sleepwalker
post Oct 24 2008, 04:58 PM

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QUOTE(Yukito @ Oct 23 2008, 03:01 PM)
Which annie? Alkt dropped his gf's car here to do the coating just now. She ask me take good care of her 'husband' laugh.gif Alkt lost to a Latio Sport kaka
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That's because ALKT's 'wife' is not her. She's blue and has 4WD...Hahahhahahaa...
sleepwalker
post Mar 8 2010, 10:08 PM

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QUOTE(RedBox @ Mar 8 2010, 01:20 PM)
KC,

I am interested in your experience with how long the NXT will last before needing to be detailed again. I am also interested to know if you layer another product before or after NXT. No rotary, just plain old hand power. No need for scratches nor oxidization nor water stains nor bird droppings fix. Car is fairly new. I will clean thoroughly and clay.

Thanks.
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Redbox,
It is actually not the enviroment that strips your wax but rather the process of cleaning your car that does it. So many times I've heard of people saying that the wax does not last in our hot weather because it melts away or that their wax only last 1 week and that because they washed their car 1 week after with wax-stripping detergent.

My Gold class wax last about 2-3 months but that is maintained with a quick detailing spray every 2 weeks after washing the car. If you can stand it, try not washing your car for 1 month after waxing. You'd be surprised that the wax is still there and not washed away by the rain or melted by the sun. The process of cleaning the car with cheap shampoo that ends up stripping away the wax.
sleepwalker
post Mar 9 2010, 08:47 AM

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QUOTE(SweetPuff @ Mar 9 2010, 02:31 AM)
You mean brush off the residue with a paint brush? Thanks a lot for your help.

Also, for quick detailing, do you rinse the car with water and then dry prior to applying the spray or just spraying the wax straight on will do?
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It's quick detailing, not a water-less car wash. You do not apply it on a dirty or even dusty car. Best to apply right after carwash. If you do it later in the day or the next day, do give the car a quick rinse/wipe and dry it before applying.


Added on March 9, 2010, 8:50 am
QUOTE(RedBox @ Mar 8 2010, 11:05 PM)
Sleepwalker,

Thanks! That's what I was looking for. Good to know about the gold class.

I wanted to know how long between a full reapplication so I hope to hear from NXT users. I can deal with quick detailing but I find that I no longer can devote a lot of time as before.
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Treat the quick detailing as a quick morning exercise. If it takes longer than 20mins, you are not doing it right. Afterall, it is suppose to be a quick detailing and you don't buff one panel like a thousand times. If your quick detailing is difficult to buff off and the cloth is sticking to the panel, that means it is time to re-wax the car.

Another thing about the gold class and nxt. Gold class seems to work better on a dark car as you can see from my results on page 41 or 42. NXT does not work that well on dark cars, even when I got it done at the meguiars center and main distributor in USJ 1.

This post has been edited by sleepwalker: Mar 9 2010, 09:01 AM
sleepwalker
post Mar 9 2010, 04:04 PM

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QUOTE(SweetPuff @ Mar 9 2010, 11:02 AM)
Which quick detailer I should use if I use Gold Class? I have the impression that if I use say... Ultra Gloss Detailer on Gold Class, it's gonna produce some weird looking gloss and reflections.

Ughhh. For some reason I have an urge to try out Turtle Wax ICE now. I must be having some mid-life crisis.
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You should see the weird reflections I get on my car with Zymol polish, zymol wax, gold glass wax and ultimated detailer all in a span of 3 weeks. It's so weird it's pretty.. tongue.gif tongue.gif

So far Ultimate Detailer works best. NXT Speed Detailer is ok too.
sleepwalker
post Mar 25 2010, 09:18 AM

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QUOTE(clsiluf @ Mar 24 2010, 04:18 PM)
hi all, last week i wax my car bonnet. here the steps.

1. wash with gold class shampoo
2. clay with meguiars + quick detailing as medium
3. wax with 3rd step carnauba wax ...

that evening and night rain heavily, i go check the bonnet and notice the wax is gone ... is my technique got problem or the rain wash out the wax?
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You guys must be using some really crappy wax to have it washed out in one rain session. First of all, wax is water-repellent and no rain will wash it off. Usually it is the process of the car wash with bad shampoo that does that.

Secondly, you should not be using quick detailing before the wax. It should the finishing layer and not medium. You want the wax to bond to the paint and finish off with the quick detailing.

Lastly, what kind of carnauba wax are you using? Some really pure carnauba wax takes hours to dry before waxing off. Karate Kid style 'wax on wax off' may not give it enough time to bond to the paint.

This post has been edited by sleepwalker: Mar 25 2010, 09:42 AM
sleepwalker
post Mar 25 2010, 03:27 PM

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QUOTE(clsiluf @ Mar 25 2010, 01:40 PM)
i use the meguiars carnauba wax ... the 3 - 1 that come with paint cleaner, polish and carnauba wax.

yes, last time i read from on9 forum, for clay, some people use water, some use car shampoo and some use QD as medium which is the most espensive among the 3 options  tongue.gif

btw, sealant first or wax first ?

sealant not suppose to lock the wax ? hence it should be after wax ...
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I said finishing layer, not foundation. Finishing as in the last thing you do.
sleepwalker
post Mar 30 2010, 06:20 PM

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QUOTE(wilsonjack228 @ Mar 30 2010, 10:56 AM)
I think the whole car paint also got this effect . So KC , what should i do with the orange peel effect ? . leave it alone ? for me ,from far not much a difference but
just only when u notice it up front . blush.gif
As this is our first dark color car , when I got the car I wash it only with microfiber smile.gif  and i wash it every 1 week or 2  whistling.gif
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The orange peel effect has nothing to do with your cleaning. It is just poor polishing/finishing by the factory before they delivered the car to you. The orange peel is not caused by the paint but rather the clear coat. All you need now is a good professional polish to bring the showroom shine back out. You can check on page 42 for the pics of my car to know that orange peel does not come from your washing.
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post Mar 30 2010, 09:11 PM

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QUOTE(SweetPuff @ Mar 30 2010, 07:00 PM)
Can recommend a polish to reduce orange peel? All I have now is Meg's Medallion Paint Cleaner. Or do we have to go to a shop for wet-sanding or something?
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KC would most probably tell you to go professional. So would I. To remove orange peel would require some professional work as they have to cut pretty deep without damaging your clearcoat. I would not recommend doing it by hand as the difference in pressure would leave you with different levels of clearcoat. Some would be deeper and some shallow. You'd cry when you see the 'big' patches of orange peel.
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post Apr 1 2010, 12:02 PM

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QUOTE(seech @ Apr 1 2010, 11:25 AM)
While waiting for my buddy KC to reply, allow me to elaborate.

Orange peel is common on modern cars due to the solvents that are used in the paints or more specifically the clear coats. In the past when the environment was not such an issue the solvents used allowed the paint to cure with less of the orange peel effect. My understanding now is that the modern clears do not contain as much or contains less volatile solvents and this is what causes orange peel. Its also not about the cost of the paint as you can see higher end cars with lots of orange peel as well.

Orange peel is essentially unevenness in the clear coat so compounding and polishing 'might' improve the situation a little but because compounding will also remove the 'top' and 'bottom' of the imperfection, relatively speaking there will not be that much improvement. What you need to do is wetsand the car as the sanding will remove the 'top' of the imperfections to level it out with the surroundings.

Wetsanding is a whole different thing altogether as the clear coats are very thin and excessive removal through wetsanding/compounding could lead to premature clear coat failure. The show cars you see on TV etc. are usually sprayed with a thicker clear coat before being wetsanded to achieve that perfect mirror finish. However, wetsanding and the compounding/polishing required to remove the sanding marks is very time consuming and generally not recommended for daily driven cars.
We can't put the blame on the solvents. All clear coats that come straight out of the factory feels so rough that you think the car was sandblasted instead of being painted. They are they polished to showroom finish before delivering to their customers. Why do you think that BMW and Merc do not have this problem? They are given a good polish before it is delivered to their customers. I know of this as the carwash I go to is also where Auto Bavaria in Glenmarie sends their brand new cars to be polished before delivery to their customers. Comes out without any orange peel effect.

So where do you think our local car makers would send it for polishing before delivery?

This post has been edited by sleepwalker: Apr 1 2010, 12:04 PM
sleepwalker
post Apr 1 2010, 03:15 PM

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QUOTE(seech @ Apr 1 2010, 02:42 PM)
Yes I also know where Auto Bavaria sends their cars. What I was explaining is that polishing on its own will do nothing for orange peel. If polishing is all they do then it would be good to see what the paint looks like before and after polishing. BMW and Merc have recently come up with harder clear coats like ceramic clears which as you rightfully pointed out have no or minimal orange peel effect BUT if you are looking to remove orange peel then wetsanding is the way to go.

Have attached a link regarding how environmentally friendly solvents contribute to the orange peel.
http://truthindetailing.com/Forum/showpost...761&postcount=7
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Yes, environmentally friendly solvents contribute to orange peel but that is not the main cause of it. It is not something that cannot be removed. Most importantly is that it should be done before the car gets to the customer, so that the customer does not have to go through the anguish of removing it. Our local car dealers have made this orange peel effect so common that people think it is paint damage. It is not paint damage. It is Public Relations damage for the car dealer.

I can accept the fact that freshly REPAINTED cars have the orange peel effect as the clear coat cannot be polished so quickly since the car wasn't oven baked at temperatures as high as those fresh from the factory. Those we will have to wait a couple of months before doing a good sanding job.

As far as I can remember, practically from day that our local car manufacturers offered metallic paint, I have seen the orange peel effect on brand new cars.

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