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 Car Detailing, How I did mine....

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capiche
post Mar 30 2011, 06:14 PM

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QUOTE(Zaypher @ Mar 30 2011, 05:57 PM)
Hi bro, speaking of Quick Detailer, can the Turtle Wax Ice Spray Detailer be used after their Synthetic liquid polish is applied on to the car?
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I do not know the system of Turtlewax bro. However, if the polish is wax (as per TW's definition).. I believe it is safe. smile.gif

update: from what I gather, it seems the Syn Liquid Polish is a wax (per TW definition)... then it can be used then smile.gif.. actually even if its a 'polish' (as per detailers' definition), a QD can be used too.. But, it is wrong to use polish as LSP..


Added on March 30, 2011, 6:24 pm
QUOTE(jackal400 @ Mar 30 2011, 05:51 PM)
Hi sifu sifu sekalian, I have a problem over here and really looking forward on the answers that you guys are providing to me.

My prob lies on the wax spots that appears a few days later after my detailing session. I did followed Meguiars 5 basic car care steps and yet I'm still puzzled with the outcome. FYI, I did let the wax to undergo at least 10 mins of drying process and did a swipe test after that. The swipe test result was okey. I'm using hand application and gold class Meguiars paste wax just FYI.

Any solution to my problem?
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do you have photo of it?

10mins curing time is a window of period only. it depends a lot of factor. is u apply thin enough, in our climate, by the time u done consecutive panel, the earlier layer can be buffed liao...

mind elaborating ur waxing process/steps?

thank u smile.gif

This post has been edited by capiche: Mar 30 2011, 06:24 PM
capiche
post Mar 30 2011, 11:37 PM

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QUOTE(jackal400 @ Mar 30 2011, 06:58 PM)
Unfortunately, I did not snapped any photos. The wax spots that I'm facing is like sort of whitish wax which has not been buffed off in my case.

Anyway, here are my waxing process:

1) using a dry foam applicator and dip a very minimum amount of wax by going through a complete circle of the can. And yes, I dipped it by using the edge of the foam applicator.

2) apply the wax in a circular overlapping motion with little amount of pressure being applied and work it out till it's almost non-visible.

3) proceed to the next panel and followed by step 1) & step 2). usually, I would be able to cover my car within the 10 mins timeframe and then immediately buff off the whole car.
Oh btw, I'm applying the wax on a warm surface.
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since u say work until become invisible film, means u r applying rather thin.. how many buffing towels u used? IMHO, the more the merrier during buffing off wax cause it makes thing easier. once MF is condensed, its quite difficult to absorb d..

i guess most prob is the warm surface causes the streaking... Since u using Gold Class, u shud know it has higher carnuba content.. if u played with pure carnuba wax before, once ur finger touch on it.. the wax melt immediately... so if with warm surface, i guess most prob is the wax has dried up..

try using plenty of QD and wipe. if not, cleaner/wax it. smile.gif

hope i help smile.gif

This post has been edited by capiche: Mar 30 2011, 11:41 PM
capiche
post Apr 1 2011, 11:16 AM

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QUOTE(jackal400 @ Mar 31 2011, 11:36 PM)
Unfortunately, im using 1 MF cloth to buff off the whole car. Could that be one of the cause too ?
Didn't know such crucial fact about carnauba thingy till u said so, really appreciate your info smile.gif. I guess i'd give it another try on this saturday and see what will happens.  smile.gif
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hmm... try using more MF when buffing.. it will certainly eases your job..

regarding the streaking, i believe most prob is due to the wax has dried up.

thats y normally ppl dun recommend waxing with machine, cause the immense heat generated could easily dry the wax up.. smile.gif

happy detailing! notworthy.gif
capiche
post Apr 2 2011, 05:43 PM

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QUOTE(Oliver Oh @ Apr 2 2011, 05:10 PM)
It is ok to wash our car twice per week? BTW, I using Meguairs Gold class shampoo. It wont harm our clear coat right?
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hi there,

it all depends how ur technique of washing n drying. make sure u are equipped with the correct ones. then u could care no less about the frequency of washing. smile.gif

This post has been edited by capiche: Apr 2 2011, 05:43 PM
capiche
post Apr 4 2011, 05:39 PM

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QUOTE(tchtax @ Apr 4 2011, 05:32 PM)
Hello sifus again

Just want to check with you fellas. Let's say you notice a medium scratch on your bonnet from 4 feet away, (probably from a cat) , would you use Megs ScratchX or M105 to remove it by hand. I don;t have a DAP or PC..just using the normal yellow polishing foam pads.

After this to be followed up by M205, sealant and wax.

I read that its a pain for ScratchX to break down for its effectiveness using hand. Appreciate your inputs on this.
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I had cat scratches before.. i dealt with it via Ultimate Compound.. I believe not necessary to go till #105.. seems to aggressive for such defect.

my personal opinion smile.gif
capiche
post Apr 22 2011, 01:09 PM

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QUOTE(blacksunday @ Apr 22 2011, 12:05 PM)
is there a way i can get rid of holograms by hand instead of rotary?..any products to recommend?
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I will recommend UC. U can just skip SwirlX.. To me, is the most overrated Meguiar's product..

Use MF pad, cutting strength is far stronger than sponge pad.. smile.gif

This post has been edited by capiche: Apr 22 2011, 01:10 PM
capiche
post Apr 22 2011, 01:49 PM

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QUOTE(blacksunday @ Apr 22 2011, 01:12 PM)
UC as in ultimate compound by meguires?....sorry noob...wats mf pad?
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oops. sorry for the shortcut.. notworthy.gif

ya.. UC is Ultimate Compound by Meguiar's.. MF is microfibre pad.

smile.gif
capiche
post Apr 25 2011, 09:21 PM

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QUOTE(blacksunday @ Apr 22 2011, 05:29 PM)
ok so i just went to get ultimate compound meguires..next nid to find time....smile.gif....well hope my lil experiment does bring me to somewhere...my only mission is to get rid of the holograms...one last question...do i need to clay first or i could just do right after a car wash?
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is always best to do from grounds up.. wash-clay-correction-seal.. smile.gif U cant go wrong with UC.. its a noob-proof product.. smile.gif

brands are not important. skill matters. whether is meguiars,optimum,3m or menzerma.. if u used wrongly, all will result in disaster. biggrin.gif

however, meguiars is the only OTC product we can find here.. which is an extremely sad case and consider to be gooe enough unless u r doin serious correction, then u need professional range.. Optimum now basically left KC brought in.. Mothers by autopolishine..

know ur paint condition,own skill n knowledge.. i learnt my skill from buying product first.. use liao few times, not good, sell away. cause dun have sifu to teach.. hahahaha

This post has been edited by capiche: Apr 25 2011, 09:28 PM
capiche
post Apr 26 2011, 07:03 PM

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QUOTE(KC's @ Apr 26 2011, 05:50 PM)
HI caprice you do not need to splash around trying out all OTC....stuff...just do some googling & see whats are some of the stuff other arena is using & how effective is it....and you will soon find out

a chinese saying that goes "I have plenty of swords at my back, but none of them are sharp"

so when you have found your sharp one - use it effectively & it will be sharper

----i started just like you ended up wasting lots of $$$
yeah.. But i like to try out different products to see the effect and performance.

I did a lot research normally before buying. cause wallet no money mah.. need to be cautious. biggrin.gif

And honestly, those reviews cant do much justification. For example, there are 4 products which I tried (based on reviews are good).. which to me isnt at all. and to the extent, I would say it is rubbish. half of these are OTC. the other half is non-OTC.

I will not disclose the brands though smile.gif

for ppl like u and me, we learn it the hard way. but it is fun though! smile.gif

This post has been edited by capiche: Apr 26 2011, 07:04 PM
capiche
post Apr 27 2011, 04:39 PM

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QUOTE(Vcys86 @ Apr 27 2011, 02:42 PM)
hi, just realize there is one good detailing thread over here.

I have been washing my car by myself for 2years+ now...

weekly wash meguiars gold class shampoo + MF clothes + 2 bucket method (one for shampoo fluid, another to clean MF clothes)

monthly (sometimes twice a month) wax using Meguiar M16 + sponge

3months/6months - Clay (PG clay) + Meguiar colorX + M16 + sponge

recently notice that under street lamp, there is a lot of swirls on the car surface sad.gif and plenty of watermarks too (dark color car)

would like to know any suitable way to rescue the situation?
I think it is getting more and more "sandy" feel on the car surface..(last week just done the clay+colorX+M16) and it took me the whole morning sweat.gif a lot
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Ur washing technique. though is 2BM. the pressures applied greatly matters too. u sure there are no dirt at at all on the MF everytime u clean it out from the rinse bucket?

May I know ur 'sponge' is in what sponge?

Do u make sure that the paint surface is ultimately clean before u monthly waxing session? then how about the applicator? is it clean?

Shall all these are checked, there shouldnt be anyway swirls can be instilled in short period. The last time I correct my paint is 3.5years back. Now have some RIDS around. smile.gif

This post has been edited by capiche: Apr 27 2011, 04:42 PM
capiche
post Apr 27 2011, 08:40 PM

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QUOTE(Vcys86 @ Apr 27 2011, 06:24 PM)
thanks for your reply.

Just normal pressure as washing other stuff (plates, cups) , is it correct?
normally i did clean thoroughly during rinse, and because it is weekly wash, not much dirt can be catch by MF (by rough eyes monitor)

The sponge is from Meguiar too, it is a square, white-colored, size is larger than a soap a bit. I tried to find on its homepage, seems it is no longer available there..

on monthly wax, i wax only after wash, with no clay though. For the applicator, i used the sponge (for nearly two years already). The sponge surface did become dark (or dirty?) . Does it means it no longer suitable?

Previously, although i can see the swirl, but the surface still smooth.
Just recently, the surface become very sandy/rough feel doh.gif  doh.gif
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Haha/. pardon my mistake, my pressure is as in the pressure applied on the wash medium when u glide tru the paint.

if u took good care of the sponge, it could last long. Unless u r dealing in business, hence the sponge/pad/applicator/mf might get dirty much faster.. Or u r absolute OCD.. then change it every 6 months.. Hahaha..

regarding the rough, kinda abstract to describe here. biggrin.gif
capiche
post Apr 28 2011, 08:27 AM

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QUOTE(Vcys86 @ Apr 27 2011, 10:52 PM)
may i know what is 3 MF method for washing?
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u mean using 3 microbifre?
capiche
post Apr 28 2011, 09:44 AM

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QUOTE(Vcys86 @ Apr 28 2011, 08:29 AM)
yes..any video on how to apply this method?
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i not sure bro, cause havent heard this method before. smile.gif

but i believe is by separating different MF for different parts of the car.

2 mitts method i heard before though.. 1 for upper body panel, 1 for lower body panel.

or 3BM method, is 2 shampoo + 1 rinse bucket.. 1 shampoo for upper panel, another for lower panel.
capiche
post Apr 28 2011, 11:52 AM

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one can never go wrong with ONR. the best modern invention of car detailing. biggrin.gif
capiche
post Apr 28 2011, 01:47 PM

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QUOTE(Vcys86 @ Apr 28 2011, 11:56 AM)
Normally my car just park under house porch and wash it there

may i know is ONR available right now?
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I believe sifu KC sells it. I have a gallon for my own usage. biggrin.gif
capiche
post Apr 29 2011, 09:28 AM

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QUOTE(xngjn @ Apr 29 2011, 04:55 AM)
hwo can i know how many optimum product need to mix with how many water?
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U can check at their website bro. wink.gif
capiche
post Apr 29 2011, 05:53 PM

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QUOTE(xngjn @ Apr 29 2011, 05:08 PM)
what are the replacement product for "Optimum OPTI Seal" , "Optimum Power Clean"? i want the common brand which i can get from jussco or ace hardware shop.
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There are no direct replacements. As every manufacturers made their product distinctively different from others.

Detailing is an art. And beauty of art lies in the eye of beholder. smile.gif
capiche
post Apr 30 2011, 11:04 PM

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QUOTE(blacksunday @ Apr 30 2011, 04:51 PM)
yo bro.....this UC is definitely DA bomb dude.....i finally manage to put it to test....and im definitely seeing huge changes...or at least improvement to the surface of the bonnet....it was effortless...

all i did was wash, clay and section by section UC.....i took a few pics under the sun by my camera was unable to capture the comparison...but all i can say is that this product definitely do what it said it was suppose to do....

each area i did like a few spins with a foam pad and thats it...not even a second time.....and all the holograms and swirls are gone...

well of course the results are still not as good as bro KC does with he's projects.....but it does get rid of all the annoying spider webs and holograms....to achieve dept and gloss...i still think BRO KC is the god.....cant wait for he's detailing workshop next week....
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glad i helped then! biggrin.gif

u cant compared machine detailing with hand mah.. XD.. is like ferrari with perodua.

KC, Darren, n others all are pros.. check out their work.. U will be amazed!

This post has been edited by capiche: Apr 30 2011, 11:04 PM
capiche
post May 2 2011, 11:09 AM

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QUOTE(KC's @ May 1 2011, 01:34 PM)
congrats buddy.....u started the great journey

glad u found
see ya...looking forward to a fun fill time ya
bro- evryone also can do if i can - this is my passion - to trains others to detail on their own too -that is the reason of my lengthy posting for - all the 123 steps for others as a reference guide & hoping others do it  better than me

show it to the rest of the world - we Malaysia can too
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ya.. Darren of AutoDetailer has shown to the world what we can do.. Now with KC..

I wanted to get a 9227c too.. but too bad, studies and career (in months time) have put me on halt.. sad.gif

Just ONR my car after gravel-roading.. undoubtedly, the best invention of modern car detailing! biggrin.gif

This post has been edited by capiche: May 2 2011, 11:11 AM
capiche
post May 3 2011, 10:46 PM

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QUOTE(aliluya @ May 3 2011, 10:20 PM)
hi guys..i'm taking my new car which in arctic white and i think it means solid white. Wondering what is the best car paint protection i should go for? any advice can share?
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are u sure it is a solid paint? without clear coat?



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