Have to have a look at it to know what the white spots are. Just be more careful if you want to rub harder to prevent scratching your car. This is the time that those DIY Polishes come really handy

Sorry to say the paint does make a difference. As the Chinese saying goes, "You can't carve a good statue out of rotten wood". Mercedez C-Class Compressor's Black is one of the better blacks in my opinion, even better than BMW's one, as has a liquid layered shine look

Based on what observations?

Theoretically, you can. But the Polish & Wax that you used MUST be Silicone-FREE. But usually, it's so much trouble to wipe down the car properly after the detailing and the inexperience of many in using Silicone based polishes it's just better you give your paint 1 and a half month at least to let the thinner fully evaporate. Also, many re-spray shops commonly apply a layer of wax on your car to make the re-spray look more impressive without knowing the damage they caused, it's always safer to de-polish & de-wax the whole car after you collect it.

As for the Polish/Wax session, it depends on the skill of the respray shop. If their polish creates too much swirl marks, a Sedan size car will be anything between RM300 to RM450.


Correct me if I'm wrong, PG no.1 Clay is for the newer paintwork right? If so, try using no.3, should be able to remove the tar without problem. But tar eat away your clay so fast, I always advise Tar Removers to save money on your clay bar. And don't worry, DIY polishes rarely damage your paintwork when applied by hand. Unless you have a really dirty sponge or you're rubbing it in really really hard

Let the pics do the talking ~~


Audi Q7 after a 1-step Finish Polish.


Bonnet of a Wira Before & After a 1-step Finish Polish.


Toyota Crown Majestic. 1st time I see the car in real life O_o


Bonnet of a Toyota Crown Majestic Before & After a Complete Polish. You can see that this is a serious case as thin deep scratches are still present (unremovable) and surface is orange-peel like thus the lights are like reflections on a distorted mirror


Water beading on the roof of my OLD Honda City after a rain. Waxed one week before.

By the way, for light coloured cars, from my experience I feel that shots taken on the bonnet/fender/roof that reflects the sky will be good pictures to show whether your paint is in good condition. But I also camera noob la, don't take my word for it, see my pics all also cacat one

This post has been edited by Yukito: Sep 22 2008, 07:03 PM

Adrian, next car aim for Lancer GT RED, that one will definitely give u the wet look

Where's the center located? Even its a Finishing Polish + Interior Cleaning. For SUV RM350 is dirt cheap O_o For Interior Cleaning alone ppl usually charge that price already.

Ralf the polish looks nice. I see you have some marks at your engine. Presume its leaked engine oil stain. You can request them to use Chrome/Alu Polish to remove that for you

Using microfibre cloth? Maybe you're rubbing too hard. It's only been like 2 months since u last did the polish O_o


It depends what you're going for. Long lasting or high gloss? How often are you willing to wax your car?


Can't really estimate car size from picture. Is it like Honda City size or Accord size?

Hrm funny lately quite a few peugeots coming in.....

sleepwalker one day you can try Mothers Wax, quite ok also and I think the difference is negliegeble. Can DIY

This post has been edited by Yukito: Oct 6 2008, 12:06 PM

2 - 3 months is almost unachievable in normal conditions. Most people ones only last 1 month. Unless you always park under the shade, its highly unlikely you'll go past 2 months.


If you are the kind to go for longer lasting then you can try coating. I also offer coating services. Lasts one year (guaranteed) for RM300. Coating are suppose to achieve the same purpose as wax but its raw materials are different. Instead of Carnauba Wax, coating can be based on fluorocarbon or teflon, etc.

I find that if you do a weekly routine of spray on Polish & Wax solution then wipe down, you can actually skip the surface prep step. Which makes the waxing itself not so difficult to do. I always find the surface prep step to be the most laborious

Alum polish = Autosol Definitely removable, so don't worry about it. I also use it on rims for the same cases but rims are exposed to more weird stuff like melted plastics etc.

Presence of Wax should be assessed by the smoothness of surface rather than the water beading.

And end of this month, I'll be doing a roadshow @ JuruAutoCity, Penang. Hopefully I'll find somebody there that's interested in opening a Car Detailing Center


Wash, Clay (assess whether you have clayed properly by smoothness of surface). Then Wax. If your car is not new or polished, I recommend to use a Polish & Wax every 2 weeks instead. It's not as long lasting as a pure wax but it should help to buff up the shine and remove minor scratches. After 1 month you can switch to waxing alone. You should also try to do this under a shade to avoid the car drying up before you can finish your wash+clay

sleepwalker, after the wax you QD every 2 weeks. Technically, you are layering an extra layer of wax on top. Let's say you leave the wax layer alone, just pure washes every week. How long will it lasts? Just a question

This post has been edited by Yukito: Oct 7 2008, 12:38 AM

For that size a complete Polish (incl Wax) is RM350.


Its a coating that functions like wax but lasts for one year. I charge RM480 for a Honda City sized car (incl Polish & 1 yr guarantee)

This post has been edited by Yukito: Oct 7 2008, 10:40 AM

Actually, for coating we do measure the presence of the coating by the water beading + smoothness. Waxes starts to breakdown with time, which disrupts surface tension thus the water beading. But the coating itself is rigid and flat, the water beading effect. If water beading is not there, we assume the surface is damanged/absent. Subsequently, we'll polish out the remnant coatings (if any) and then re-coat the surface.

As for shine, its really dependable on the conditions you subject it to. There was this MR-S that did the coating 3 months ago, the water beading and shine is great. But the shine at the front bonnet particularly is lacking as the car front is always subjected to exhaust from cars, oil stains from mamak stalls, etc. I did polished it and re-coat it for free out of goodwill. AFter that, I do a high speed wax for his bonnet everytime he comes for his weekly washes. But for other cars that I have done, the oldest a Civic (the VP of 8th Gen Civic Club) I did back in Apr, he's car still looks newly polished.


Materials meaning equipments + chemicals? I'm using SONAX brand chemical, Lake Country Pads, & Flex/Makita Machines. As for the worksmanship, me and my colleague were trained in Neuberg, Germany for a month at the SONAX HQ

For an average Malaysian driver, the wax lasts one month yes. If you think that's too troublesome, I'll recommend the coating.

This post has been edited by Yukito: Oct 7 2008, 04:03 PM

The coating presence (or whats left of it) is based on the Surface Tension. As can be seen in the picture above, the surface tension is inter-related with the angle of the water beading, which is the measuring tool being used here.


I think there's some mis-communication here. For all type of Coating Guarantees (not only Sonax, but also PPS, Matrix, Diamonbrite etc.), it only involves the coating stays there and do what it should do, protect your car. For the MR-S case, as I stated, the water beading is still fantastic thus the coating is there. He also understands it wasn't part of the warranty. The reason for this is simple, there are many forms of matters that can bond to the surface of the coating, thereby hampering the reflection of light eg. shine. The coating was never meant to prevent such matters bonding to the surface but rather to reduce it. Even when the coating is damaged you can rest easy that it did not hurt your paint. Even if you waxed you car, park it in front of a Eatery everyday the oil stains & smog will still eat onto the surface on the wax.


The idea of coating is that you don't have to do the waxing thing from time to time, that's the idea of it. If you prefer optimum shine, I do acknowledge that Waxing is the better way.


For Honda Accord size car the price is RM650 [Free 6 washes + 1 wax]. Waxing gives better shine, is smoother, and if some stains stick to the wax and hamper the shine you can easily remove the wax and re-apply


Can, provided you already sand-down your previous clearcoat properly without hurting your pigment coat.


Where's the photo? Sounds like a Dirt Eraser to me

It really depends what you want. Coating is for those who want to rest well to know that their paint is protected even if they miss their regular wax exercises since Coating lasts much longer. Also, as a rigid layer the Coating acts as a physical shield so when your coating is damaged by things like stone chips, bird crap etc. Your paint underneath is still safe.

On the other hand, regular Waxing is for those who wants optimum shine and don't mind to put in more elbow grease for it. However, it does not provide protection and surface tension as good as Coating since Wax is softer. Bird crap practically only takes up to 6 hours to eat through a dual freshly waxed layer to damage your paint.

For optimum results, I'll just recommend Coating first, then layer it with Wax


Bottle with Z is a brand called Zymol, the distributor in Malaysia is Carnauba Autospa and their address is:
No. 34, Jalan Pemberita U1/49, Seksyen U1,
Temasya Industrial Park, Glenmarie
40150 Shah Alam. Selangor
You can also email them : info[at]autospa.com.my

This post has been edited by Yukito: Oct 15 2008, 07:31 PM

My noob-ness exposed

Brian, do you have any Point Of Sales in Malaysia?

My own interpretation:
Polymer Sealant - chemical imitation of wax, suppose to last longer than waxes but less shine
Regular Wax Paste - Harder to apply than liquid wax, but lasts longer
Liquid Wax - Easier to apply than paste wax, but lasts shorter


Assume that it will and remove it.

Assuming you did the coating, you'll need to machine polish to properly remove the coating layer. If the scratch is not too deep it might even not touch your paint Thus the coating act as a protection shield, as you said


The coating lasts one year, with Warranty. We measure the presence of the coating by the water beading.

Paint Cleaning no. Re-waxing yes for the fender/bonnet portion if you want to keep the shine. This week onwards, for coating customers who come in for a wash I incorporate a Speed Wax for it. Cause its really very bad to ask customers to do a wax when there's a coating, figured I'll just incorporate a speed wax to remedy this situation

Which annie? Alkt dropped his gf's car here to do the coating just now. She ask me take good care of her 'husband' Alkt lost to a Latio Sport kaka

U Subaru guys ar...... My gf must be glad I am a Honda guy


Sup bro, still doing Edifier? Yup my place does interior detailing. RM250 for your size of car Mould grow inside lagi

However for Door Trims + Rubber sealings what kind of problem are you facing? If it's leaking/faded, you have to change it. I don't think there's any repair for these kind of things. My rubber trim for my Honda City was also leaking and I changed it for RM120/pcs.