i installed Midea 2x 1hp basic and 1x1.5hp inverter. Looks n feel ok. let me comeback with feedback after few months.

Carrier and Electrolux are using Midea's aircond compressor.

Mee too, headache now  
Initially wanted Daikin (wiring issue)
Then Pana (heard many complain here)
York (heard many complain here)
Mitsubishi (heard all the parts has many PCB-spare parts - jialat )
Midea (looks like they are not serious for Malaysia - no Malaysia marketing website, even the Malaysia phone no is nonexistent)
others - most air cond service guys not recommend  

I'm using midea for the past 1week. satisfied with it, where it's significantly cheaper than other brands. okla, i don think there are significant diff between  ac brand

just a comparison, a 1.5hp inverter is at least rm500 cheaper than pana/daikin

http://midea.see.com.my/

i got mine from a forumer here..1.1k (not sure if he gave me some discounts, as i bought a few electrical items from him ) . installation+ rm180.

can anyone help us

its for the master bedroom

length = 19 feet
width = 13 feet
height =8-9 feet

can you guys recommend how many hp needed

and do inverter and no inverter will bring differences for around 5-6hour usage on night?

Give model and brand la. What for general info? 

Pleased with my midea 1,5hp inverter. rm1.1k + rm150 for installation. so far no complaints, easily rm400-500 cheaper than pana/daikin.

All my 1HP are sharp. Non inverter.

Not sure, I got two model. Two with ion for room, one without ion for dining area.

Hitachi a bit boring of noisy air.

Mine had around 2 yrs thinking to change for mitsubishi starmex inverter again.
Quiet, cold, easy clean.
Not like others.

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Added on March 23, 2012, 1:19 pm

Panasonic nice looks, but may have upgrade your warranty of care the PCB ke ke.
No brand will do the same

i bought my midea inverter 1.5hp for rm11xx (cant rmbr exactly howmuch). basic 1hp rm580

R22...

Not enough. Minimal 1.5, best will be 2hp.

just to add: not just outside temp is important. you should also consider how well insulated your room is, how many people usually occupy it and what desired temp you want to chill down the room to.

in a well insulated room, a 1 HP aircon can easily handle a 25 sqm room. however if there is lot of traffic through the room (i.e. moving a lot of chilled air out) or a lot of people inside the room then you might need more power. same goes for equipment in the room that generates heat (PCs, lights, fridge, whatnot).

unless you know precisely how the room will be utilised it will be hard to give a good recommendation for the size of AC required.

FYI: 7,5 HP of a/C capacity *can* easily cool 550-650 cubicmetres of air to actual 25°C in a 3-5 person household if the rooms are insulated and windows ducted in normal malaysian climate (also in hot season!).

Also depend what is your temperature setting. To me is better oversize than undersize. Size like mine using 1HP is over work. Just like a heavy car with 2L engine drink more fuel than a 3L same car, and the power is there when you need it.

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Added on April 2, 2012, 10:52 pm

2 and 1.5hp piping is the same. And some installer told me even better to use 2.5 piping because if not enough power can still upgrade without doing piping. In a hot day, 2hp will cool the room faster, and than switch to lower the compressor. 1.5hp may take slightly longer to cool the room to desire temperature.

Hitachi and Mitsubishi Mr Slim inverter aircond have higher EER, and provides 2 years part warranty and 7 years compressor warranty. although they are expensive than others, it is good to invest it in long run.

Hitachi RAS-X13CY (1.5HP) has EER of 12.7, BTU is 12,630
Mitsubishi Mr Slim MSY-GE15VA (1.5HP) BTU is 14,330, EER is 11.3

I have Hitachi RAS-X10CZ, it has highest EER of 13.4 among all 1HP airconds, really energy saver, only drawback is kinda noisy sometime in quiet mode.

if you want to have faster cooling, mr slim has better rating, although it might not as energy efficient as Hitachi.

the problem with EER and inverters is that it doesnt totally reflect the true savings. if i understand it correctly, EER will be calculated under full load which is not the optimal usage point for inverter a/cs. under partial load the effective EER would be a lot higher.

that beeing said my point on the issue is this:

make sure you slightly oversize the inverter ac for the room so that it always runs on partial load. if you care to research, choose one with the highest EER under 1/2 and/or 3/4 load.

consider:

desired room temp

degree of insulation (no need for it to be airtight. my example the room has one or two doors open, PC running 24/7, people run through a couple of hours per day, usually 12 hours per day one person inside only though. a/c cools to actual 25°C (setting 28° dry gives actual 25° across the room) and is mostly on lowest partial load once the room is chilled down)

amount of people

level of air-exchange

amount of appliances

how many windows (and how much heat from there)

ceiling insulation

if you do that, you'll be able to choose the right choice of A/C (hopefully). all the installers suggested that we hopelessly underpowered the ACs for the rooms but they dont break a sweat. i cool a 45 sqm hall (3,5 ceiling height) with 1 (!) 2 HP inverter ac and a ceiling fan to distribute the cool air properly in the hall. even on a hot day the ac is on minimum load almost all the time. windows tinted, ceiling insulated, heat reflecting paint, draft-safe windows etc. all add up.

http://www.coolserve.com.sg/htmdocs/produc...ils.asp?id=2398

It is as powerful as Panasonic 1.75HP version