David tamiya underground have open during CNY? If no when it open? dash 1,2,3 still have stock?

@davidtamiya: Thx for the info. Will drop by 1 Utama when I am in KL and hope to see you in this year's race!

@arold88: Currently planning for a more evil Veldaga for this year's race in Singapore =D

I looking for type3 body dash1. Not "vs classic"

If you are using hyper-dash pro, it's good to have a slightly bigger roller angle at the front to improve cornering stability.

To improve cornering speed, u might want to have ur roller width set at widest possible width (105 mm), though the downside to this is that there will be less space to land after a jump. Also have 3 sets of rollers so that the 3rd set (placed either at front or bottom) can be used to balance the car.

Adding Sliding Damper to the rear is my habit. It improves cornering speed by changing the direction of the car during cornering. Also it reduces energy loss for multiple corners/ waves.

Roller wise it's good to use ball bearing rollers and have the 3rd set of rollers placed as low as possible.

Lastly stacking 2 pieces of FRP can reinforce the car, making the front and back more rigid. This is crucial in maintaining cornering speed.

There's still alot I never cover (don't want to make the post too long) but hope this helps.

Just remember the golden Rule of Mini 4wd is to bring out the power of the motor as efficiently as possible whilst maintaining stability.

HoNeYdEwBoY, post ur car's pic...love 2 see it..

thts right david, i read it twice to undrsnt it, yet, still confuse..heheh
still have lots of work to do...

Looking forward to this hobby...

Anyone testing car this coming saturday... I had prepared 2 cars ready to test...

When david will be back?

@Eelen: Yeah MS PRO is quite a balanced and fast chassis, though I had to set the front angle to 10 degrees with O-rings on the rollers to clear the track. Roller width/length: 95mm/130mm. Motor used was Torque-tuned (3.5:1) with stock terminals and no bearings in the gear. For the double jump so long the car is fast enough it should clear it without problems. The trick is to fly over the 2nd jump. 

@TMY KIA: Frm the pics and the specs your car is ok. You might wish to use bearings and gold terminals for your chassis. Roller-wise I'd advised using rollers of similar diameter for front and back. Since the smaller the diameter, the greater the rolling resistance. In other words your front rollers are actually impeding the rotation of your rear rollers, resulting in a slight loss of speed.

Zippo Lighter fluid won't damage your bearings. Just suspend your rollers inside the liquid and let it sit overnight the dirt and all will settle at the bottom.

For the height of your rollers it's good to have the front set of rollers positioned in line with the axle of the car. Since this is where your roller is in line with the centre of gravity (in most cases) and little energy will be lost trying to balance the car if you set the front rollers too high or too low.

Ultimately the speed of your car should be relative to the track. setting and the motor. When I used to raced last time I'd always used a small 2 lane track (consisting of 8 curve pieces and 2 straight pieces) and I'd let my car run on the outer lane for 15 laps to test the speed of my car. If your setting is efficient it should be able to complete 15 laps with Torque Tune in around 11-12 seconds.

@GL91: I stay in Singapore so I cant answer you. Chassis-wise MS PRO is supposed to be the fastest chassis around (theoretically) but each chassis has its own pros and cons. If Super FM is for tech and TZ-X. VS is for speed, the MS PRO should be somewhere in between. 

>sonic_cd,
Yup, the car is running on VS, to make a difference from others*. Although all winning cars are SFM, if managed to complete 3 laps, I think SFM hard to beat the timing.
*me is kiasu. hahahaha

>13lack.12ose,
Please let me know if you are going down to TU, I will be in KL next week.

Eelen you going for the Khatib race tmr?

see you tmr then.

Hmm if this is the case how come there is still gold plated terminal? I know for old chassis (Super 1, TZ) they used brass or something else, thus the need for gold plated terminals. But since we now have copper terminals then aren't gold plated terminals unnecessary?

Btw Happy Valentines Day dudes and dudettes 

>13lack.12ose,
I think is marketing gimmick. For example some upgraded parts just look nicer, but they are not really useful. hehe..

thanks for reply.

if want to improve cornering speed, should i maximize the front roller width and minimize the back roller width? i'm also thinking about what roller to use since there are a lot of options. which one are your favourite? (17mm, 19mm aluminium roller vs 9mm, 11mm, 13mm ball bearing roller?)

Nono, Sliding damper works by changing the direction of the car during cornering, thus improving speed. I have been using this part since I started competitively back in 97.

We know that if front roller width> rear roller width the car will be faster during cornering because the direction of the car is shifted away from the track wall and more towards the direction of the turn. This means the tendency for the car to push against the track wall during cornering is less, and energy is more efficiently used for turning.

Using sliding damper has 3 advantages:
1. Faster cornering speed: Sliding damper works on the above principle during cornering. In fact it helps in wave sections as well since it smoothens the rapid change in direction.

2. Best of both worlds: Because sliding damper only changes direction during a turn, you can maintain an equal roller width for front and rear on straights---> good for jumps and straight speed

3. Absorption: It can help absorb centrifugal force experience in a turn, making the car more stable.

Do note though for effect 1 it only works if you install the sliding damper at the rear. Putting it in front will have an opposite effect.

Do a small test and you'll see 

@B-mecha: The new part has a wider width so when you install 13mm rollers the roller width will be the maximum of 105mm. Also the material used is reinforced ABS so it is less prone to bending compared to the old sliding dampers.

Surething! Looking forward to it 

Now modding my chassis for tmr's race

---

Added on February 15, 2009, 1:29 amBtw David, do you think it's good if we set a car that can be used for testing various effects next time? In this case we can have 2 cars, 1 car used as a control whilst the other is used to test various mods and effects.

lol ok. I think stock is gd then we can limit the variables and get individual results of our testing more accurately. 

I hate mini-humps, I hate mini-humps. Hyper-dash took my SF to the moon, and torque tune showed us how to somersault a mini4wd (Yes, somersault). 

Even till the very last minute and the very last ticket, the scorching sun did not dampen our will to clear it. So close yet so far away. When we thought we'd be getting a new record, the 360 degrees loop+ hump hammered the very last nail to our determined but futile efforts. 

But what falls will rise again. As the night beckons our racing spirit resurrected and we fathomed the unthinkable---> using hyper-dash pro on fresh batteries to conquer the dreaded bridge lane change. 

And succeed we did.

After a day of scarred cover (yes, the mini-hump gave my SF a nice long souvenir), flying wheels and tyres, I have to say, it was a glorious day indeed. 

Chill la boss, the pics are with Eelen. Give some time la 

Btw I am keeping the setting when I tested the hyper-dash so when we are at TU this week we can test again. 

Hello all, this my first post here.. Started playing tamiya 4 months ago and find it very interesting as it involves physics   . I know I have lots and lots to learn, hope you guys can help me   
Here's some qns Im pondering, maybe some pros can help answer and discuss too ^^

1) Rollers     -     Suppose you have the same car width regardless of which roller you use, which type of roller will be faster when turning?
    (5mm,7,9,11,13mm ball bearing rollers, 17,19mm aluminium rollers)

for me will 9mm at the front 19mm at the back but cornering speed will also be determined by the length of the car condition of the motor batteries condition of the rollers bearings and such roller placement also important.

2) Tires     -     For the tire width, why is it that most stock tires front width is smaller than the back? Will it be better if I were to use all tires of the same width?

yes it will be better for speed track but as for thechnical track tire width choise will differ depending on track layout car setup and type of car


3) Length of Car     -     What are both the pros and cons for having a longer or shorter car?

too long will slow down your car in the corner while too short will make your car unstable but give u better cornering speed so depend on u how u want to set the length

   
4) Track with jump after a corner     -     (Thought of this question in response to 13lack.12ose's guide few pages back)
Suppose the track is a turn, followed by a jump. My car did the tilt cornering for the corner, and enters the jump. As a result, the car enters the jump with a tilt and flies with a little tilt. (Any secret to help me achieve tilt cornering and yet achieve a straighter jump?  )

for this u will need to really observe the car while it is jumping then try diferent rollers or weight to control the car this will need quite a lot of track time for research . if u frequent tu u can just look for me and we see what can be done

Hope you all can    ar ^^ TIA.

long straight roads + mini humps + sharp cornering + 360 loop.... last night's race was a madness jumping track. with 6 tries i cant even finish half lap

all other racer's parts make me  i'll get more parts someday.

btw where is TU? ops.. nvm i found out it is tamiya underground in one utama

Woow... Happy to hear that from u, david. When r u going there? I able to join in March. Need to ready some $$$$   .....

currently some parts at TU are insufficient....