david when tamiya underground have sell de dash 1 collection box 3&4 ?

Tks. But lagged of speed...



Which car specs?

gonna drop by later to pick up a new car .

Singapore race @ Tampines Blk419 St.41

haha you posted the pics b4 me ^^

Anw the track is very technical and the top 6 are all Super-FM chassis. My MS-PRO managed to get a time of 22.76 but aint fast enough to clinch a placing

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Added on February 10, 2009, 3:04 pmHmmm mind telling us the parts you used on your chassis (gear ratio, gold terminals etc)?

I always feel that cornering speed is more important than straight speed. Usually I would soak my rollers in zippo lighter fluid to clean away the dirt and lubricate them.

This post has been edited by 13lack.12ose: Feb 10 2009, 03:04 PM

>13lack.12ose ,
Hello. I am glad to see you here in the internet world. Nice talking to you that day, and thank you for the suggestion. 22.76sec is good timing, as I didn't get any timing haha. My car didn't manage to go through the double jumps. SFM is good for speed technical, I think MS also can beat it as long front is heavier, chassis as lowered as possible, and the setups.

Red Avante's Spec :-

Large Dia. Carbon wheel
Rear Super X bumper FRP
19mm Aluminum Roller -x 4
Pair Aluminum Double Roller
Extension FRP
Stock terminal
3.5:1 gear ratio
Lightweight center chassis
Hyberdash Pro.

All this are general setting.... any advise to improve it? Will zippo damage the bearing??

does tamiya underground sell them? O yah, is the new MS chassis much better than the one ones?

the car running on a vs chassis ar ?

@Eelen: Yeah MS PRO is quite a balanced and fast chassis, though I had to set the front angle to 10 degrees with O-rings on the rollers to clear the track. Roller width/length: 95mm/130mm. Motor used was Torque-tuned (3.5:1) with stock terminals and no bearings in the gear. For the double jump so long the car is fast enough it should clear it without problems. The trick is to fly over the 2nd jump.

@TMY KIA: Frm the pics and the specs your car is ok. You might wish to use bearings and gold terminals for your chassis. Roller-wise I'd advised using rollers of similar diameter for front and back. Since the smaller the diameter, the greater the rolling resistance. In other words your front rollers are actually impeding the rotation of your rear rollers, resulting in a slight loss of speed.

Zippo Lighter fluid won't damage your bearings. Just suspend your rollers inside the liquid and let it sit overnight the dirt and all will settle at the bottom.

For the height of your rollers it's good to have the front set of rollers positioned in line with the axle of the car. Since this is where your roller is in line with the centre of gravity (in most cases) and little energy will be lost trying to balance the car if you set the front rollers too high or too low.

Ultimately the speed of your car should be relative to the track. setting and the motor. When I used to raced last time I'd always used a small 2 lane track (consisting of 8 curve pieces and 2 straight pieces) and I'd let my car run on the outer lane for 15 laps to test the speed of my car. If your setting is efficient it should be able to complete 15 laps with Torque Tune in around 11-12 seconds.

@GL91: I stay in Singapore so I cant answer you. Chassis-wise MS PRO is supposed to be the fastest chassis around (theoretically) but each chassis has its own pros and cons. If Super FM is for tech and TZ-X. VS is for speed, the MS PRO should be somewhere in between.

Edit: Copper > gold for electrical conductivity, so should stick to stock terminals. Apologies for mistake

This post has been edited by 13lack.12ose: Feb 14 2009, 11:37 PM

the master of mini4wd have spoken

@ 13lack.12ose - Tks for yout advised, will try to applied and test...

@David: Thx for the compliment. Don't think I'm a master lah, just sharing what I know with you guys. I am sure I have alot to learn from you all as well ^^.

@TMY kia: No Prob. Wish you luck ^^. Usually I remove the front bumper of my chassis so that I can set my front rollers much lower.

[quote=13lack.12ose,Feb 11 2009, 06:36 PM]
@David: Thx for the compliment. Don't think I'm a master lah, just sharing what I know with you guys. I am sure I have alot to learn from you all as well ^^.

i cant teach as well as u

[quote=david tamiya,Feb 11 2009, 08:26 PM]
[quote=13lack.12ose,Feb 11 2009, 06:36 PM]
@David: Thx for the compliment. Don't think I'm a master lah, just sharing what I know with you guys. I am sure I have alot to learn from you all as well ^^.

i cant teach as well as u

[/quote]

I'd be in KL on the 18th and 19 Feb. Hope will have time to go down to TU

>sonic_cd,
Yup, the car is running on VS, to make a difference from others*. Although all winning cars are SFM, if managed to complete 3 laps, I think SFM hard to beat the timing.
*me is kiasu. hahahaha

>13lack.12ose,
Please let me know if you are going down to TU, I will be in KL next week.

me worst kiasu , kiasi , kia cannot race mini4wd

No Prob. Will be leaving on 19th evening so hope have afternoon to play @ TU in the afternoon.

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Added on February 12, 2009, 9:15 pm
Some tips and ideas I'd have. Feel free to discuss and correct me if I am wrong. I based my settings on Tamiya rules so I might not be able to share much on other settings which I am not familiar with.
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Roller Settings

Maximising Cornering Speed via Tilt Cornering: Roller Width 105mm, Roller Length 110~125cm Front roller in line with centre of gravity/ car axle. Roller angle should be at minimum ~ 1-3 degrees. Front roller Height < Rear Roller height. 3rd set of rollers (balancing rollers) is optional but should have a smaller diameter than your main rollers. The aim here is to achieve a tilt cornering, ie the outer rims do not touch the track at all during cornering, greatly reducing cornering drag. A narrow wheel base would allow for an easier tilt, though a wider wheel base can achieve a faster cornering if tilt cornering is achieved.

Tech Course: Roller Width 90mm~95mm. Balancing roller preferably placed in front as low as possible (ie having faster reaction time for the car to return to track during a jump). Angle should be 5~10 degrees depending of difficulty of track. O-rings and rubber caps for rollers can be added to help the car stay on track. (Might not be the fastest setting to clear tech tracks, just based on my own experience).


Reducing Resistance:

Resistance is what slows your car down. There are many types of resistance: i) contact friction, ii) weight, iii) aerodynamic drag.

i) Contact Friction- Points of contact for moving parts should have as little resistance as possible. Using ball bearings for all moving parts is essential. Place a spacer (those used for ball race rollers) in between the wheels and chassis help reduce contact friction.

ii) Weight- Contrary to popular belief, a heavier car might not be a more stable car. I'd be using a bit of science here to explain.

For every action there will be an reaction. ie a force that acts in the opposite direction to the forward applied force. All cars have a centre of gravity (CG). This CG remains at rest if the car is at rest. However when the car moves forward the CG will move back. Thus this explains why SFM are very good for tech tracks.

Now we look at the equation F=ma, where F is the resultant force, m is the mass of object and a is the acceleration. If our cars are heavy, this means our m is of a higher value. Given constant acceleration, the heavier car will have a greater momentum when it jumps thus making it fly further.

But what do we have to do in order to let our car remain light yet stable (in terms of weight). The answer is to shift the CG as close to the front as possible. This is why SFM and MS PRO are considered quite stable chassis. Either that or use mass dampers (old school set up of stacking rollers in stabilising pole is an example of this) that can alter the position of CG during jumps. Besides, a lighter car can achieve better acceleration and reach top speed much faster.

iii) Aerodynamic Drag

An aspect I feel many seldom pay attention to. Try using covers that have as little perpendicular surface as possible. This is why covers with low ride height tend to run faster as well. Some good covers would be Strato Vector, Tiger Zap (Super FM, TZ) Astute, Super Avante (Zero, VS) as well as T.Shot Mk II and Veldaga =P (MS PRO)

Having "tunnels" on the covers (air intake > air out-take) will create an area of low pressure inside the tunnel, creating downforce. Secondly the air coming out from the tunnel will also give that extra push to your car.

This effect was tested on my old Boomerang Fury with a ride height of only 2.5cm. The time without cover was 0.5s slower than when I put the cover . I intend to add this to my currrent ride when I can find clear plastic pla-plates.
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This post has been edited by 13lack.12ose: Feb 12 2009, 09:20 PM

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Added on February 12, 2009, 9:30 pm
too much inform

This post has been edited by freedem life: Feb 12 2009, 09:30 PM

@ freedom: lol paiseh. But I assure you take your time to read it would help you much