Abt the price of CHT-12Q 

IMHO Fr RM2.5k u can get either tight or fast or decent boom, u cannot get all three; the Velo CHT @ RM2.5k offers decent boom but not very tight. B&W offer tighter bass but don't go low enuf, had a Jamo which was very musical but fails on 'boom'

Ohh.. I missed out that one  Thanks bro.. few hundred more than Velo    think I will go audition for 12Q and 3200 to see how much punchy 12Q can deliver.
That is only for the Elite like our bro Horny..  me can only  BTW, how much is this gem cost?

give me link i want see htkaki

at USD50 per piece....does it really improve the sound?

My friend is using it. Since there is less vibration, the bass sounds cleaner and taut

For those interested in Aurelex SubDude, pls pm me.
I need to get enough ppl to buy at better price....

hey i understand lah explan if order pc hardware like Intel core i7 how long take 3-5 working days like this

I would like to share something that I found recently. Subs are normally rated +/- 3dB. Typically it means that the sub will go as low as that within a tolerance of +/- 3dB from reference. The normal reference is 75dB. This rating is done in a quasi anechoic chamber/room. This does not mean that the sub cannot reproduce below that. It only means that the volume will be lower than 72dB. Subs normally have a very steep rolloff below their rating.

My sub is rated at 26Hz (+/- 3dB). However, our room accoustics can lower or increase the frequency quite a bit. For example, if I use it in my dedicated stereo system I get +/- 3dB at 25Hz. However, if I were to change the sub phase to 0 from 180 I get a room response where my sub now is able to deliver 21Hz (+/-3dB).  However, with this lower there is a huge peak at 37Hz. If I were to hook up my CD player to the CD input of my AVR amp and use the stereo mode (Audyssey enabled) the peaks are much flatter and the 37Hz is reduced. The sub response at 180 is also now down to 20Hz (+/- 3dB). The 37Hz hump is there but very much smaller (the fronts are still pre-out to my dedicated Holfi amp).

I will try to post some graphs of my findings. At the moment, I am using a freeware (with a laptop), a USB soundcard and tripod mounted Radioshack SPL meter to show the response of the sub and mains at the lower frequencies. I am waiting for my new Galaxy Audio SPL meter that is calibrated tightly compared to the RS SPL that is known to be not as accurate. Also by moving my main speakers around, I get to see the flattest response with regards to my main listening position that improves the overall sound experience.

The importance of a sub in a home theater environment compared to a music environment is different. In a pure HT environment, you would like the bass to enable enjoyment of the LFE (boom, explosions, gun shots). However, in a music environment, you want the subwoofer to supplement the main speakers and not cause unnecessary boominess. The sub must not be felt, it needs to be blend in.

I wanted to point out that it is possible to go much lower than the sub is rated at depending on room placement and room accoustics.

I will try my best to post the charts here within the next few weeks when I get my Galaxy Audio SPL meter.

For sound, your ears tell you something is not quite right, the measurements just confirm that. I know some guys, who have golden ears, came over to my house, heard the system, immediately moved the speakers to new position, adjusted the sub a little, lo and behold improvements in sound. If you do not have those ears, measurements help to see if you are in the right direction. You can also confirm that the changes you make are in the right direction.For most audio issues, the low to mid bass is the most problematic due to room issues. It causes loss of detail in other frequencies when it is wrongly set.

I am actually very pleased with Audyssey. I believe that Audyssey adjusts the filters quite right. However, after running Audyssey, it is important to check your speaker levels and correct it with a SPL meter. I found that it was off about 1-2dB, max 3dB.

You r right, some companies report the frequencies quite differently, lucky for you , you checked.

is it?  how much is it in KL?

I got myself a RW-12D, i never try Velo b4, so i cant compare with it, but  i like my Klipsch so much, this sub really make me satisfy, i dun think i need other better sub anymore since this sub already enough to boom out the house from other street. 

How I wish I can audition both before making the decision.

Spec wise I think the RW12-D has more power.  But both of these lose to the JBL ES250P which have 400w RMS continuos power and 700w peak and price much cheaper too...only Rm1800 for a 12" sub.  Now i am really confused!

I have personnaly sold this sub before. it produce ample bass but not those 'vicious' bass that Velo generate. Strange but true. At this power rating, it sld have produce sofa shaking bass. But, no. Probably that lies in the built material or the driver itself as at this power rating, it sld be at least same weight or heavier than Velo or Klipsch. It only weighs in below 20kg.

Hi sifus, does anyone know the latest pricing for Velodyne Impact 10 and Velodeny CHT-10r subs?

Frequency response of the Toy Tower L/R (purple trace), REL T1 subwoofer (blue trace), Toy Center center channel (green trace), and Toy surround (red trace)

The REL T1’s close-miked response, normalized to the level at 80 Hz, indicates that the lower –3-dB point is at 43 Hz and the –6-dB point is at 36 Hz. The upper –3-dB point is at 98 Hz using the LFE input.

Can someone explain what does the chart means.  I'm interested in the blue trace which is the REL T1.

Spot on bro. This is a pretty good response from the sub. It is tuned at 80Hz (~82dB), the -3dB (junction is at 43Hz). There is a hump and a drop. Quite steady. Of course your room accoustics might change all this, but a pretty good curve. My only concern is I do not think this sub goes too low. I believe it will struggle below 50Hz from looking at the charts. It does well above 50Hz. This might be an impediment for big movie moments....