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Model Kits Model Kits/Toys Painting, Building, Modding Thread, where the 'deja-vu are tradition in here

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shadowmorning
post Feb 18 2009, 11:09 PM

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Hey guys im new here...hey if u dont mind,can u guys help me with my doubts? U see,i came across Keita's 00 and Exia gundam and wow they were awesome.Thing is...does anyone>

1- ...know what mr hobby paint did he use to paint the white,blue and gray parts?It looks like he used water based mr hobby paint but thats impossible coz it looks so cleanly airbrushed.

2- How did he do the ORB's green yet shininglike painting?

3- Where to get pla plate in KL and how to use it? Pls show me a vid coz the pics look easy but not enuf exposure.

4 - which type of tamiya putty to use to extend parts slightly and fill gaps??

5 - does anyone here recomend the TAMIYA RM591 airbrush coz mabe i wanna buy.

6-when airbrushing,can i use industrial thinner coz mr hobby thinner damn expensive.

7-does anyone have any idea how he modified the head of 00?

8-how to scribe new panel lines?

pls give the answers in this format of numbers if posible.im asking many questions at once so i wont be keep on bugging evryone evrytime.
BELOW ARE THE PIX EXAMPLES RELATED WITH THE QUESTIONS.
THANKS for helping,take ur time to answer please,sorry im new to this... icon_rolleyes.gif

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This post has been edited by shadowmorning: Feb 18 2009, 11:12 PM
shadowmorning
post Feb 19 2009, 08:33 PM

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Actually,im not THAT new to Gunpla. I can do all the OOB stuff like,sanding, cuttin off nubs, handpainting...now i wanna go level 2-intermediate. Things like AB, primer-ing, modding, custom paint and especially PLA-PLATING. VERY difficult to find a video guide for pla-plating.
shadowmorning
post Feb 23 2009, 11:48 PM

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HI guys, i just like to clear up some more questions i have..

1 - Can sumone recomend me where to buy a good air brush (budget rm 600) in KL.

2 - Has anyone tried this Tamiya's Spray Work Basic Air Compressor with Airbrush*pix below* before? if so,is it good?

3 - Is Mr Hobby White Putty*pix below* suitable for covering gaps and emty spaces of gunpla models?

4 - Is there any cheaper alternative than using Mr hobby gray primer available in malaysian hardware shops?


Thanks dudes... thumbup.gif


Added on February 25, 2009, 3:29 pmEh?? what happen to the replies to my questions yesterday? Its like its deleted! ??

This post has been edited by shadowmorning: Feb 25 2009, 03:29 PM


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shadowmorning
post Feb 25 2009, 05:37 PM

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QUOTE(erh_teo @ Feb 25 2009, 03:33 PM)
yalor.. but neverbind la.. u already got ur answer liao ma..
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actually...i didnt write it down...coz i never imagined the post to be rolled out...pls repost the answer please!? ONEGAI-shimasu!!! cry.gif
shadowmorning
post Feb 25 2009, 06:17 PM

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QUOTE(Steiner @ Feb 25 2009, 05:56 PM)
New to the forums here and joined for this thread lol. Have been doing simple OOB panel lining and painting with gundam markers for some time. Wanted to start on painting and this seems like a good place where I can ask for advice so here I am. Have a bunch of them I have kept in mind for the longest time.

First questions that come to mind..

1. Are there any difference in the brush used in handbrushing? Or will any old brush do?
2. Paints. Is thinner absolutely required to thin the paint? I'm thinking of painting my 00 raiser's clear parts with clear paint for example. I'm thinking of tamiya acrylic or enamel paint. Any advice to support or against the idea?
3. Tools to clean up the mess. I read around and found qtips and rubbing alcohol is the common solution but never any steps on how to. Just dab and wipe? Also any suggestions would be welcome.
4. I have read that it's hard to get even layers with spray paint? Just to verify that in case I get overambitious and mess up my Sinaju. =_=

5. Any preparation process for spraying topcoats? I know primer is required for paint but I haven't read anything about pre-topcoating models so another point I would like to verify.
6. How long does topcoat take to set? Ideally I would like to do it at home but space is tight. So I need an idea of the time frame to topcoat the entire model. And is topcoating done piece by piece or just spray the entire model evenly?

Alot of questions at one go so any replies would be appreciated, even if it's to just one of them. Thanks.  smile.gif
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my opinion answers.

1-Well i used Nylon brushes which i bought at a local hardware shop for VERY cheap price.The flex very nicely when painting,so I recomend that kinda brush.U dont have to buy the expensive mr hobby or tamiya paint brushes,waste money lol.

2-hey,im also busy with a 1/100 00 gundam now too!! yes,i too want to try painting the clear parts with clear green paint.And i think im going to use mr hobby lacqer paint which require thinner.enamel also is good for details.water based i think not suitable for CLEAR PARTS.

3-cleaning tools? i just use cheap industrial thinner/spirit to clean brushes and tools lol.

4-SHIT MAN!!! DONT USE SPRAY PAINT!!! UNEVEN PRESSURE AND HORRIBLE RESULTS IF UR NOT EXPERT IN IT!! IF U NOOT CONFIDENT DONT USE THIS "EASY WAY" out to finish ur lovely sinanju! i killed my first exia with spray paint!! so i just stuck to handpainting first,sloe,but = nice results!

5-i dont understand this question that much but simple processes u can follow are
a)sand n cut nubs> Wash parts with warmsoap water> handpaint parts >topcoat(either handpaint it or buy the topcoat spray cans)

b)sand n cut nubs> wash>primer>handpaint>topcoat.

6-topcoat can dry properly in less than one hour time outside the house for me.and i spray separate parts like the leg,arm,torso separately so i can cover all properly.

PHEW! Here u go. This is all my opinion and expericence of course! thumbup.gif

This post has been edited by shadowmorning: Feb 25 2009, 06:20 PM
shadowmorning
post Feb 25 2009, 08:38 PM

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QUOTE(Steiner @ Feb 25 2009, 08:01 PM)
Noted. Tamiya brushes go for 3-6 dollars at the hobby shops I frequent, which tend to be limited in tools. Cheaper options are always welcomed. biggrin.gif
Nah. 1/144 00 Raiser. The clear part on the rifles clear blue. The body clear parts green, the forehead clear part clear red. For solid colors, the V fin in yellow and grey for the cheeks.
Noted.
Relax man. I just wanted to know if spray paints are hard to use and you validated it nicely. tongue.gif

Slowly working my up way with handbrushing first to gain experience of course.
Is it ok if I just dump the entire runners in soap water before I start the cutting and assembling process..?
And it's greatly appreciated.  smile.gif
@erh_teo: Thanks for the fast reply but you replied in my quote so abit hard to reply you back. tongue.gif

Ya I've read about the thinning ratio in a thread before. 3:7 or 1:1.. I'll go back and check again. Will any type of thinner do? Or is it a must to match the thinner with the paint? Eg aqueous paint with aqueous thinner,nanamel paint with enanamel thinner.

And clean up as in cleaning up hand painting.

Roger that, will go read more how to spray from cans. And I think I didn't phrase my question about topcoating clearly. Can I say just take any model, spray topcoat onto it and the result will be fine?
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OK...yes gain some xperience handpainting with water-based acryilics first.i wash it like this;i first fill a basin with warm water+soap,dump the parts in,and i use my fingers and "scrub/polish" the parts.alternatively,use a soft facial brush or sumthg. BTW,yes,a thinner must match with its paint type,eg...enamel paint+enamel thinner,acrylic paint+water(best for beginners thumbup.gif ),and lacqeur paints+thinner.just to remind u,can spray painting is terrible,coz of the shit smell,uncontrolled amount and "debris".it destroyed my first exia and zeta("KISAMAA!!!")
Ahem. cool2.gif


Added on February 25, 2009, 8:57 pm
QUOTE(erh_teo @ Feb 25 2009, 06:29 PM)
just for u man!
1) i believe there's 1 or 2 thread selling airbrush set under garage sale. go find it.
it's been mentioned few times in this thread, click post by this member (it's right upper corner in my post)
or try davelcm, rayloke or any that u find normally replying in this thread. their reply usually helpful.

2) i heard the handpiece is good for wide area spraying (topcoat and primer), quite limited for fine works.
the compressor is really a small type not intended for heavy-duty use. heats up easily and each working time not more than 30mins.

3. can. best to apply to seamline or narrow gap. big gap (bigger than a peanut) try bondite, polyester putty.

4. cheaper of course got, but my advise go for mr. surfacer (1000 or 1200). it's the best to be used honestly.
u use industrial one sometimes it's too strong can damage to plastic, it's too thick oso, u must master the spraying from can to avoid loosing of surface details.
*
dude,i also wanna know,can u post the thickness of the several pla plate availabe? u noe,the thickess so i can compare and buy. notworthy.gif

This post has been edited by shadowmorning: Feb 25 2009, 08:57 PM

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