QUOTE(shadowmorning @ Feb 25 2009, 06:17 PM)
my opinion answers.
1-Well i used Nylon brushes which i bought at a local hardware shop for VERY cheap price.The flex very nicely when painting,so I recomend that kinda brush.U dont have to buy the expensive mr hobby or tamiya paint brushes,waste money lol.
Noted. Tamiya brushes go for 3-6 dollars at the hobby shops I frequent, which tend to be limited in tools. Cheaper options are always welcomed.

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2-hey,im also busy with a 1/100 00 gundam now too!! yes,i too want to try painting the clear parts with clear green paint.And i think im going to use mr hobby lacqer paint which require thinner.enamel also is good for details.water based i think not suitable for CLEAR PARTS.
Nah. 1/144 00 Raiser. The clear part on the rifles clear blue. The body clear parts green, the forehead clear part clear red. For solid colors, the V fin in yellow and grey for the cheeks.
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3-cleaning tools? i just use cheap industrial thinner/spirit to clean brushes and tools lol.
Noted.
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4-SHIT MAN!!! DONT USE SPRAY PAINT!!! UNEVEN PRESSURE AND HORRIBLE RESULTS IF UR NOT EXPERT IN IT!! IF U NOOT CONFIDENT DONT USE THIS "EASY WAY" out to finish ur lovely sinanju! i killed my first exia with spray paint!! so i just stuck to handpainting first,sloe,but = nice results!
Relax man. I just wanted to know if spray paints are hard to use and you validated it nicely.
Slowly working my up way with handbrushing first to gain experience of course.
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5-i dont understand this question that much but simple processes u can follow are
a)sand n cut nubs> Wash parts with warmsoap water> handpaint parts >topcoat(either handpaint it or buy the topcoat spray cans)
b)sand n cut nubs> wash>primer>handpaint>topcoat.
6-topcoat can dry properly in less than one hour time outside the house for me.and i spray separate parts like the leg,arm,torso separately so i can cover all properly.
Is it ok if I just dump the entire runners in soap water before I start the cutting and assembling process..?
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PHEW! Here u go. This is all my opinion and expericence of course!

And it's greatly appreciated.
QUOTE(erh_teo @ Feb 25 2009, 06:29 PM)
just for u man!
1) i believe there's 1 or 2 thread selling airbrush set under garage sale. go find it.
it's been mentioned few times in this thread, click post by this member (it's right upper corner in my post)
or try davelcm, rayloke or any that u find normally replying in this thread. their reply usually helpful.
2) i heard the handpiece is good for wide area spraying (topcoat and primer), quite limited for fine works.
the compressor is really a small type not intended for heavy-duty use. heats up easily and each working time not more than 30mins.
3. can. best to apply to seamline or narrow gap. big gap (bigger than a peanut) try bondite, polyester putty.
4. cheaper of course got, but my advise go for mr. surfacer (1000 or 1200). it's the best to be used honestly.
u use industrial one sometimes it's too strong can damage to plastic, it's too thick oso, u must master the spraying from can to avoid loosing of surface details.
@erh_teo: Thanks for the fast reply but you replied in my quote so abit hard to reply you back.

Ya I've read about the thinning ratio in a thread before. 3:7 or 1:1.. I'll go back and check again. Will any type of thinner do? Or is it a must to match the thinner with the paint? Eg aqueous paint with aqueous thinner,nanamel paint with enanamel thinner.
And clean up as in cleaning up hand painting.
Roger that, will go read more how to spray from cans. And I think I didn't phrase my question about topcoating clearly. Can I say just take any model, spray topcoat onto it and the result will be fine?