Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

Bump Topic Topic Closed RSS Feed

Outline · [ Standard ] · Linear+

Model Kits Model Kits/Toys Painting, Building, Modding Thread, where the 'deja-vu are tradition in here

views
     
Steiner
post Feb 25 2009, 05:56 PM

New Member
*
Newbie
0 posts

Joined: Feb 2009


New to the forums here and joined for this thread lol. Have been doing simple OOB panel lining and painting with gundam markers for some time. Wanted to start on painting and this seems like a good place where I can ask for advice so here I am. Have a bunch of them I have kept in mind for the longest time.

First questions that come to mind..

1. Are there any difference in the brush used in handbrushing? Or will any old brush do?
2. Paints. Is thinner absolutely required to thin the paint? I'm thinking of painting my 00 raiser's clear parts with clear paint for example. I'm thinking of tamiya acrylic or enamel paint. Any advice to support or against the idea?
3. Tools to clean up the mess. I read around and found qtips and rubbing alcohol is the common solution but never any steps on how to. Just dab and wipe? Also any suggestions would be welcome.
4. I have read that it's hard to get even layers with spray paint? Just to verify that in case I get overambitious and mess up my Sinaju. =_=

5. Any preparation process for spraying topcoats? I know primer is required for paint but I haven't read anything about pre-topcoating models so another point I would like to verify.
6. How long does topcoat take to set? Ideally I would like to do it at home but space is tight. So I need an idea of the time frame to topcoat the entire model. And is topcoating done piece by piece or just spray the entire model evenly?

Alot of questions at one go so any replies would be appreciated, even if it's to just one of them. Thanks. smile.gif
Steiner
post Feb 25 2009, 08:01 PM

New Member
*
Newbie
0 posts

Joined: Feb 2009


QUOTE(shadowmorning @ Feb 25 2009, 06:17 PM)
my opinion answers.

1-Well i used Nylon brushes which i bought at a local hardware shop for VERY cheap price.The flex very nicely when painting,so I recomend that kinda brush.U dont have to buy the expensive mr hobby or tamiya paint brushes,waste money lol.


Noted. Tamiya brushes go for 3-6 dollars at the hobby shops I frequent, which tend to be limited in tools. Cheaper options are always welcomed. biggrin.gif

QUOTE
2-hey,im also busy with a 1/100 00 gundam now too!! yes,i too want to try painting the clear parts with clear green paint.And i think im going to use mr hobby lacqer paint which require thinner.enamel also is good for details.water based i think not suitable for CLEAR PARTS.


Nah. 1/144 00 Raiser. The clear part on the rifles clear blue. The body clear parts green, the forehead clear part clear red. For solid colors, the V fin in yellow and grey for the cheeks.

QUOTE
3-cleaning tools? i just use cheap industrial thinner/spirit to clean brushes and tools lol.


Noted.

QUOTE
4-SHIT MAN!!! DONT USE SPRAY PAINT!!! UNEVEN PRESSURE AND HORRIBLE RESULTS IF UR NOT EXPERT IN IT!! IF U NOOT CONFIDENT DONT USE THIS "EASY WAY" out to finish ur lovely sinanju! i killed my first exia with spray paint!! so i just stuck to handpainting first,sloe,but = nice results!


Relax man. I just wanted to know if spray paints are hard to use and you validated it nicely. tongue.gif

Slowly working my up way with handbrushing first to gain experience of course.

QUOTE
5-i dont understand this question that much but simple processes u can follow are
  a)sand n cut nubs> Wash parts with warmsoap water> handpaint parts >topcoat(either handpaint it or buy the topcoat spray cans)
 
    b)sand n cut nubs> wash>primer>handpaint>topcoat.

6-topcoat can dry properly in less than one hour time outside the house for me.and i spray separate parts like the leg,arm,torso separately so i can cover all properly.


Is it ok if I just dump the entire runners in soap water before I start the cutting and assembling process..?

QUOTE
PHEW! Here u go. This is all my opinion and expericence of course! thumbup.gif
*
And it's greatly appreciated. smile.gif


QUOTE(erh_teo @ Feb 25 2009, 06:29 PM)
just for u man!
1) i believe there's 1 or 2 thread selling airbrush set under garage sale. go find it.
it's been mentioned few times in this thread, click post by this member (it's right upper corner in my post)
or try davelcm, rayloke or any that u find normally replying in this thread. their reply usually helpful.

2) i heard the handpiece is good for wide area spraying (topcoat and primer), quite limited for fine works.
the compressor is really a small type not intended for heavy-duty use. heats up easily and each working time not more than 30mins.

3. can. best to apply to seamline or narrow gap. big gap (bigger than a peanut) try bondite, polyester putty.

4. cheaper of course got, but my advise go for mr. surfacer (1000 or 1200). it's the best to be used honestly.
u use industrial one sometimes it's too strong can damage to plastic, it's too thick oso, u must master the spraying from can to avoid loosing of surface details.
*
@erh_teo: Thanks for the fast reply but you replied in my quote so abit hard to reply you back. tongue.gif

Ya I've read about the thinning ratio in a thread before. 3:7 or 1:1.. I'll go back and check again. Will any type of thinner do? Or is it a must to match the thinner with the paint? Eg aqueous paint with aqueous thinner,nanamel paint with enanamel thinner.

And clean up as in cleaning up hand painting.

Roger that, will go read more how to spray from cans. And I think I didn't phrase my question about topcoating clearly. Can I say just take any model, spray topcoat onto it and the result will be fine?
Steiner
post Feb 26 2009, 12:15 PM

New Member
*
Newbie
0 posts

Joined: Feb 2009


QUOTE(shadowmorning @ Feb 25 2009, 08:38 PM)
OK...yes gain some xperience handpainting with water-based acryilics first.i wash it like this;i first fill a basin with warm water+soap,dump the parts in,and i use my fingers and "scrub/polish" the parts.alternatively,use a soft facial brush or sumthg. BTW,yes,a thinner must match with its paint type,eg...enamel paint+enamel thinner,acrylic paint+water(best for beginners thumbup.gif ),and lacqeur paints+thinner.just to remind u,can spray painting is terrible,coz of the shit smell,uncontrolled amount and "debris".it destroyed my first exia and zeta("KISAMAA!!!")
Ahem. cool2.gif


Haha alright then. Thanks for sharing your experience with me. smile.gif


QUOTE(erh_teo @ Feb 26 2009, 10:40 AM)
steiner, no problem dude.
by the way, as for a beginner for painting gundam kits, i got few advice.
if u plan to paint small parts/area, ur best is to hand paint.
u can use water-based type as mistakes can be easily corrected with window cleaner. worse case strip with window cleaner oso no problem as window cleaner has no effect wt plastic and primer.


Ya painting small parts first. I definitely want to paint all the clear parts of the HG 00 Raiser in clear paints. And maybe gold for the Sinaju's yellow vents. Should be ok for a beginner right?

QUOTE
if u use mr.color (solvent based) and enamel (enamel thinner or turpentine), screw up could means paint stripping. ur only options are hobby thinner (industrial thinner will melt plastic), or brake oil and the process is troublesome.


Ya avoiding those paints first. Planning to use tamiya acrylic and thin with acrylic thinner. Or is water fine too?

QUOTE
if u intend to paint the main armor (let say sinanju, red).
my best advice is to either leave the plastic as it is or paint with can spray preferably hobby can spray.
if u leave the plastic unpainted, u may stil topcoat with mr.topcoat (try avoid mr.super clear can spray as it's solvent base), if u screw up can oso remove with either window cleaner or methylated spirit (can get from ACE or most hardware).
of course, spraying with hobby can spray is usually very easy.
the key is to avoid over spray.
usually when we spray we tend to "wet the whole plastic with paint".
it's very risky. unless u want a glossy finishing, u need to do a wet spray (wet the whole plastic with paint).
industrial can spray is notorious to easy over paint as the flow is stronger and the paint is also thicker.


Haha I read in one of the links in the building or gallery thread about a spray painted Sinaju so just asked here whether hard to do or not. Turns out it is risky but I had no intention of spray painting my Sinaju's main armour anyway. Screw up will heartbreak sia. x_x

Maybe for a future project ba. HGUC Nu gundam or 1/100 Astraea Type F is what I have in mind.

QUOTE
just get some can spray (hobby and industrial), try out on some scrap plastic on various way of spraying and u've soon be familiar with it.
trust me, can spray is easier to master than handpaint.
also, it's adviced to wash ur kit parts just before painting, no point washing the whole runner becoz during assembly and cutting process, it's where u make the plastics dirty.
as for topcoating, the concept is same with spraying with can spray.
if u spray on assembled kit, make sure certain parts is bend again (joint) to recieve the dosage of paint.
or paint the parts in sub-assembly, plan ahead lor.
*
Oh ya makes sense. tongue.gif Thanks for all the help. Greatly appreciated. smile.gif

Steiner
post Mar 2 2009, 03:47 PM

New Member
*
Newbie
0 posts

Joined: Feb 2009


Me again with questions in tow. Thought I would share how my first handpainted job went before I get started.

Started the lazy way, painted the parts while they were on the runner. Started with the red jewel, thought the red paint look faint but decided to wait until it dried. Went on to the clear blue parts for the gn rifle. At first too light. Then smudged it brushstrokes. doh.gif Wiped with thinner and mixed thicker paint this time. Started on the green parts. This part went thru alot of testing. Sometimes too light or too dark. Until once I tested the mix in clear water then remember it was a good way to get the right color. So got one I thought was good and painted all.

Went back to the red. Still too light so took some red out of the pot and painted the clear part from behind. Looked fantastic after it dried. Went back to light blue then chua tio. Got one oval shape where the paint was very faint. Thought I burned a hole there with too much thinner. blink.gif Heng I was wrong so just whacked one medium blue mix and forgot about it. Went back to the green and it looked quite dark and uneven. doh.gif Left it alone and went to paint the V fin in yellow. Not bad but got run over to the white part of the fin. Managed to wipe some but still got smudges. Oh well.

Assembled the 00 raiser over the weekend. Turned out the the red jewel and green orb parts managed to turn out really great when put together with the rest of the model. Yellow V-fin was alittle thin on the left. Alamak forgot to put more layers. doh.gif But that was ok. Clear blue parts was ok too but the grey stickers in the middle didn't look so great next to the painted parts.

Think i did ok on my first job. Did some well, others not so good. Thanks for the advice given here earlier on. smile.gif Will be improving my skills gradually. Pictures in the relevant thread when I get my hands on a camera..

So my next questions also on handpainting stuff.

Is it possible to handpaint gloss onto kits? Cos I know glossy surface better for decals to stick on but dun want to spray gloss topcoat twice.

And I'm going to paint the yellow parts of the Sinaju in gold. Is priming required for such a job? Cos I feel small parts don't really need to be primed and no more $$ for a can of primer after buying all the painting tools and stuff. So asking for expert opinion here.


EDIT: One more question I forgot. Any suggestions on how to topcoat circular objects? Example the Sinaju's backpack cylinders and the GNX-III's lance.

This post has been edited by Steiner: Mar 2 2009, 03:54 PM
Steiner
post Mar 2 2009, 05:42 PM

New Member
*
Newbie
0 posts

Joined: Feb 2009


QUOTE(erh_teo @ Mar 2 2009, 04:27 PM)
waluaheh.. read ur story for no picture..  shakehead.gif

boss..
hand paint not easy.. now u know ler  whistling.gif
one thing.. u still can get nice painting by hand brush though, but most problem is most people they just dun have the patience to do hand paint.
coz the few 2 layers will look like very ugly coz the color seem uneven.
so wat they do, whack a heavy layer.
wrong way to paint anything that way.
as long as ur surface is not rough/matt/flat, can use decal. just make sure u have mr.mark settler ready by side.

if u wan easy use gundam marker to paint the gold/yellow part on the sinanju small parts lar.
for circular subject, i suppose u wanna say "masking" round things?
get circular cutter to cut masking tape of the shape then mask on ur kit sweat.gif
*
Heheh. Paiseh. ^^;

I kinda got the grasp of handpainting liao. Have to slowly put thin layer by layer then is the proper way.

Mark settler..gotcha. But dry decals also can use that right?

marker ah. Don't know my laoya hobby shop still got anot. doh.gif So that means the small parts no need prime?

BTW, whats gundam real touch marker?

And nono not masking. Like I spray the circular object with topcoat liao, how to let it dry? Cant place it down ma otherwise the topcoat sure touch other surface before drying. blink.gif

Topic ClosedOptions
 

Change to:
| Lo-Fi Version
0.0397sec    0.19    7 queries    GZIP Disabled
Time is now: 7th December 2025 - 05:08 PM