finaly chome war over


but come to 1 most important topic i like to as related to AB methold that is what the MOST effecient way of masking when comes to details part coloring can anyone suggest that? for me i done some research that only best and more effecient masking is tamiya masking tape and fluid sol mask but to apply it is not easy so any expert here got know how to use that is more better way then me >,<? it may help those who want paint 1/144 kits and above

use normal brush instead of the bottle cap brush

got any comparisen the different between normal and bottle cap brush it help for others understand better

easier to apply la
comparison what

haha i mean got picture bo difference between those 2 brush >,<

aiyoyo
why you also always so blur one

normal brush as in those use to paint one la deng
means you can use whatever size of the brush for easy apply on your kits

if you just use the cap one...just one size and maybe hard to apply on the smaller area

there...still confuse are you

Guys, when trying to AB Mr Surfacer 1200, i get a fair amount of spiderwebbing
Do i need to use Mr Leveller Thinner instead of the normal thinner or am i doing something wrong? Spray distance 15 cm psi 15.

Also, i get a little bit of spider webbing when painting on colours. Why is this? Paint mix off?

Your paint is not thin enough... put more thinner/ levelling thinner ...

If still got web the put some Mr. Retarder mild into ur mixture. ( Sumtimes i use it, sumtimes i dont... lol )

Or just use Mr Leveling Thinner.... cuz the Leveling Thinner alredi has retarder mixed into it... no need the hassle of figuring out how much Retarder u have to put.

This post has been edited by noob4life: Jul 31 2008, 08:18 PM

nothing to do with retarder mild....

your paint is too thick, add more thinner......use a ratio of 1:3 or 1:4

Diluted my paint a little bit and walla, no problems already. Thanks.

hi bout the masking sol R..izzit need 2 thin by water first coz i c it is quite thick actually....hope sum ifu can give me sum advise here...

Damn, airbrushing is thinner intensive, and mr. thinner ain't cheap! Any cheaper safe alternative available locally?
It is not the painting bit that i dread, it is the amount used to clean the ab during colour changes that is the killer

How exactly do you use the ab cleaning bottle?

This post has been edited by madmoz: Aug 1 2008, 01:33 PM

My first attempt at AB and masking. I screwed up a bit with the masking, accidentally etched the shield instead, hence the cut mark Anyway to get rid of this?
I handpainted the white line and then ab the black.

Any c&c welcome.

This post has been edited by madmoz: Aug 1 2008, 01:34 PM

untuk me-masking sila guna tamiya masking tape for satisfactory result.

other masking tape can use but sure 100% paint bleed.
although using of tamiya (despite being engineering for paint masking purpose), stil got technique.. ur technique will bring u max 99% masking job coz it's still a masking tape.
only a laser printer can give u 100% perfect separation of colors which of course won't happen to painted gundam kit.

technique:
1) make sure the tamiya masking tape sticks really well to surface and the adhesive side is not contaminated wt ur oil or fiber/hair/dust
2) always spray against the contact point, even if it's a tamiya,heavy spray direct on the line (masking tape edge) will results in some paint bleed..
3) for car 2 tone painting, where u must have a perfect color line separation, before u spray the color, spray with light mist of clear to seal of the minute gap between the adhesive point of masking tape and the plastic surface.. after the clear paint dries then proceed AB'ing as usual. paint still bleed but since it's clear, it won't be noticeable

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Added on August 1, 2008, 1:50 pmbtw.. chris.. wat u asked is actually quite tough to do..

i understand wat u mean.. well.. if u can mask the area by means of handpaint, must well paint it straight.. isn't it tougher to paintbrush mask then only ab??

some ppl jus mod the part so can separate it and ab easily lor..

This post has been edited by erh_teo: Aug 1 2008, 01:50 PM

swt... u use mr. thinner to clean ur AB?? siao meh, wat a waste... use an ordinary industry thinner to clean ur AB la... wont bring any defect to ur AB pen if ur AB pen is made of metal de... if the tamiya spray work AB pen which the paint cup is made of plastic, i don know lor...

go hardware shop and ask for thinner isit? one kind only wan right?

yap, i currently using hardware thinner,
so problem so far~~~

Actually i got masking question too. For example the blitz i've ab-ed most of the parts black but there are certain bits (very small bits like thruster vents) that are red. Even if I mask the surrounding areas, red will hardly show against the black background right? Do i spray surfacer on it again then spray on the red?

This post has been edited by madmoz: Aug 1 2008, 02:27 PM

for red i suggest to spray red and then go wt black

coz it will be too thick to spray black, mask, prime surfacer then go red again..
everything fails, try handpaint.. this is a not to be forgoten and one of the vital skills in modelling.. handpaint

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Added on August 1, 2008, 2:37 pmalso, mostly in hardware u'll find:

turpentine (for enamel paint)
methylated spirit (this can use if u using water based acrylics)
THINNER - for cleaning mr.color (or lacquer based paint)

look for thinner

This post has been edited by erh_teo: Aug 1 2008, 02:37 PM

plan it b4 u spray....go from the lightest color to the darkest color.....