thers other way, that is by using putty but cement is easier to use ... perhaps u nid to pick up some skills ...

This post has been edited by edwardgsk: Jul 11 2008, 07:20 PM

Sometimes it depends on the cement u using and whether u join the 2 parts together the cement will squeeze out enough for u to operate on the part or not!
If u using those Plastic Cement tat are Fine grade u wont get the result u want, if u used those extra strong one it sometime over do the stuff for u! Try buy those normal type one!

Try apply thin layer of cement on both side.. then press it hard. Left it for 1 day and only do sanding...

please excuse my noobish question...

the step to apply the mr.top coat (flat) to remove the plastic gloss should be done after the kit is assembled or parts by parts...?

and where can i get some? (at a cheap/reasonable price)

thaanks in advance for ur answers

about cement..i bought this from miniature hobby cuz it was cheap..but when apply it seems like not effective enuff...has anyone tried this brand b4?



usually when we apply cement then paste two parts some residue will appear at the seam line for us to sand right..
but using this no different oso

the hobby cement wan how much r per bottle?

After finish assemble lor...

mine cement deluxe RM15 only.

normal price or u get special price?

the one i bought 7.90-40%..that's y i tried for fun...but in the end not fun

deluxe is the strongest can used to make color putty one!

my cement only use deluxe de... else i dun trust coz memang not that melt...

im using the tamiya one... very good....

One question, the gritty effect on your gunplas is caused by airbrushing or by the flatcoat? I was wondering, if i were to hand paint and then flatcoat, will i be able to get rid of that plasticky feel?

one question, wat is gritty???
hand paints depends on ur skill.. if no brush stroke then it's perfect... topcoat is just to give a layer of protection and also give a nice finishing like flat, gloss,semi-gloss....

gritty = the sandy matt look as opposed to the shiny plastic look kits come in

This post has been edited by madmoz: Jul 17 2008, 03:52 PM

yes u can.
it's a strong solvent, so it can melt plastic but chloroform is very toxic and cancer-causing chemicals..

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Added on July 17, 2008, 4:04 pmthink z3r0717 said liao.. topcoat can only giv a "flat-coat", if u handbrush paint is very ugly, topcoat oso still visible, not nice and waste ur topcoat..
practice... key is practice.. dun rush

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Added on July 17, 2008, 4:05 pmwat do u mean by not fun?
is not melting styrene or wat?

This post has been edited by erh_teo: Jul 17 2008, 04:05 PM

The thing is, so far when i hand paint i get a smooth flat surface, but it is not grainy - i.e. it still looks like plastic
I was wondering if applying a flat coat will make the surface 'rougher'?

grainy means non-flat surface?

Why would someone paint to make it rough? ppl want smooth finish while u want rough one..

Unless u want do weathering

Not sure if this photo from DannyChoo's been shrunk too much, but hopefully you can see that the gunpla has a 'grainy' finish? That's what i want - is it a result of airbrushing or the flat coat alone?

err... i dun see the grainy part..

perhaps.. one thing.. ur paint too much thinner already...

i know wat u mean, yes, when we using brush (i think u are using acrylic mr hobby izzit?) that type is gloss one. so still look like plastic feel.
i think u need this.. the FLAT one..

i think you meant weathered effects? like the gundams looks like they've gone through mud, or got slashed etc.
or to put it simpler, it doesnt look "brand new" and shininng

am i correct?

if yes then i think you can refer around the pinned threads, they have guides to basic weathering down ur gundams. anything more you can ask the pros here (im not LOL!) or up to ur imagination/creativity