perhaps.. one thing.. ur paint too much thinner already...
Model Kits Model Kits/Toys Painting, Building, Modding Thread, where the 'deja-vu are tradition in here
Model Kits Model Kits/Toys Painting, Building, Modding Thread, where the 'deja-vu are tradition in here
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Jul 17 2008, 04:33 PM
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#21
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2,287 posts Joined: Jun 2007 From: Anno Domini Time Ultra: 1,000,000 Trans Am Attack! |
err... i dun see the grainy part..
perhaps.. one thing.. ur paint too much thinner already... |
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Jul 30 2008, 04:50 PM
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#22
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lao.. if i not wrong... the liquid required for electrolysis is air suling right?
Car battery water.. lao.. i forget the setup already.. but i think no problem if using that method to do plating... This post has been edited by temptation1314: Jul 30 2008, 04:50 PM |
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Jul 30 2008, 04:59 PM
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#23
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2,287 posts Joined: Jun 2007 From: Anno Domini Time Ultra: 1,000,000 Trans Am Attack! |
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Jul 30 2008, 10:17 PM
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#24
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QUOTE(erh_teo @ Jul 30 2008, 04:39 PM) a very good explanation indeed Clearly enuff u didn't read properly.. yes.. if we use paint to ab those chrome effect, we still see the gold sand particles, just diff brand may have diff particle sizes chrome plating part = no particles because these are real metal (nickel or chrome). but not to mislead u guys, chrome plating thru electrolysis is only for metal objects. for plastics, a process known as "vacuum deposition" is applied for plating plastics by the way, electrolysis only require the plating solution and ac voltage meter, not really complicated QUOTE(edwardgsk @ Jul 30 2008, 10:13 PM) lao btw i juz asked the hobby shop owner this afternoon after school... he say by using AB u cant produce a smooth surface like factory-chromed parts, but he say it is possible to do it to near 98%-99% same.... 1. super chrome silver paint as base(as mirror-like as possible, use 0.2mm AB pen), 2. a layer of clear yellow, use 0.2mm AB pen(bout the ton, can mix with clear orange) 3.**most importantly!! to make it super duper gloss, use a piece of printing white paper and sand it till smooth... **the result should be nearly the same as factory chrome parts MEANWHILE, i also asked my chemistry teacher bout metal plating today, and i got a big smack from him on my back he say... ( here's another question appears in my mind from what he say |
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Aug 8 2008, 10:30 AM
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#25
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Ok, I'll try to do guide once i get back my lense..
1st, Don't cut too near to the parts... yes it leaves quite a big nip but let it be... 2nd, Use craft knife(refer to tutorial thread, pinned) IF the surface is flat... then its easy. If the surface is non-flat... yes, u still can cut using craft knife but this require a bit of trick.. cut left and right direction....cut slowly.. There's no need for you to scratch the nip mark using craft knife also... |
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Aug 13 2008, 11:23 AM
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#26
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QUOTE(sunnyboy @ Aug 13 2008, 11:20 AM) the choice is yours....... Instead of keep on saying Mr.Thinner expensive, isn't it better for you to provide another solutions other than Mr.Thinner? i treat mr thinner as a expensive stuff for dillute the paint...not a item for remove paint.... P/S : I use Mr.Thinner to remove paint. Yes, I have to use it damn carefully,not to waste even 1 drop.. |
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Aug 13 2008, 02:05 PM
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#27
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Mr thinner strictly for paint or stripping paint only, except u damn rich one... |
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Aug 19 2008, 11:47 PM
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#28
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at least 1 day...
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Nov 20 2008, 12:39 AM
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#29
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QUOTE(z3r0717 @ Nov 19 2008, 08:36 PM) wat u r looking for is design knife not pen knife.... kotokinuya... u play too much koto kit is it? get OFLA brand which is common for us to use.... u can get it at Garden's Art shop or KLCC's kotokinuya(4got how to spell), this 2 places i saw la... u can try those book shops too.. cost u around RM20.. very worth It's Kinokuniya @ 4th floor of KLCC (IINM) Either way, you can go to Venus Art @ Petaling Street to find the craft knife as well.. |
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Nov 20 2008, 12:47 AM
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#30
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Btw, for Airbrush, last time I heard madmoz(from this forum, I think u can pm him to ask) bought a AB set from Venus Art also.. But dunno if it's recommended (It's about damn time for me to get a AB also...) |
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Mar 11 2009, 08:25 PM
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#31
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Lol.. how many times repeat already...
Cut, assemble, sand, glue, stick, remove line before you do any paint job or apply anything on top of the plastic. As for the top coat question, Mostly when people paint their kits, they don't play with it. So it's gotta be with 1 pose and top coat it. And yeah, they will be places where the top coat won't reach. |
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Apr 15 2009, 12:11 PM
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#32
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The mark setter is necessary for water decal la. If not, the decal will peel off right after it dried up.
and the mark softer, this thing only used on those uneven surfaces for decal. For example, MisterCrono's decal IF i not wrong, the blue strip was applied on the roundy shoulder. the mark softer is necessary here. if on flat surface, just put mark setter enuff. no need trouble go put softer. |
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Apr 15 2009, 12:33 PM
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#33
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Water decal didnt use mark setter will stick meh?
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Apr 17 2009, 12:38 PM
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#34
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POS don't even ship flammable things la.
somemore spray can, when they roll the box, they can hear the canister ball inside moving. Then your parcel sure GG, or legal action. I think if using DHL or private courier shouldn't be a problem as long as you notifiy them. |
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