what spray should i use to make the surface look better (the cheapest way)and can the mg decals stick on it after i put em up cause i ve build my ij up d without any sticker(except the eye sticker)

preferable last step after u've done panel-lining, decals, etc..

usually as last steps. make sure u mask off/ assemble parts that are not flat only after flat coat.

Hi,

I have one question regarding on the primer.
Does primer actually help when doing masking job?
I have some troubles where my paint will get peeled off after taking off the masking tape.
So, I wanna ask if primer will really help to hold the paint stronger until it wont get peeled off when taking off the masking tape?
Or is there any other way in using the masking tape?

By the way, what I use are industrial spray can and also those indutrial apollo brand masking tape......

Thanks.

pirmer does help a lot to make the paint stick well...
the problem is u are using industrial spray cans and industrial masking tape.. i've been through that b4...
masking tape very hard to find a industrial one which is suitable for modeling.. the best is use tamiya's one.. i know, it's exp but in the end save u lots of work.. i bought my 1st one and until it's not even finish so i say it's worth to invest on a branded masking tape...
Now, ur problem has not been solved even if u got tamiya masking tape...
becoz u're using industrial spray cans, very high chances of the paint(still watery/liquid), it will go in through the masking tape... this happen to me b4...
so u nid to carefully use the spray cans(industrial) when u have masking....


This post has been edited by z3r0717: May 5 2009, 12:56 PM

to avoid peeling off the paint...
1) prime the kit before painting.
2) more importantly, let the paint dry 24 hrs before trying any masking. although on the surface the paint may be dry, the bottom layer may not have melded into the plastic/primer layer yet.
3) lessen the glue on the tape. e.g. stick it on ur hand a couple of time before you put on the kit. reason being, industrial tapes are way too strong. it'll peel off paint. try puttin it on ur shin and do a quick peel off the tape. see how it feels and how much leg hair u lost
4) gently remove maskin tape. plastic dun feel pain but peeling it off too fast usually result in paint sticking to the tape
5) dun leave the tape too long on the kit. glue residue will remain on the kit and i believe, when u remove the tape...u're more likely to peel off paint too. just like if u tape anything and leave too long, when u pull off the tape... u can find glue on the box/plastic wrapper/etc.

This post has been edited by davelcm: May 5 2009, 01:23 PM

i use mr.surfacer, then mr.color (spray very thin layer).
i mask in 20mins no problem..

ur problems are associated wt industrial no-so-competitive alternatives..
industrial paint are generally thicker thus they tend to crack and peel more often.
try changing to hobby supply equivalents..
same goes for masking tape.
if u can't get those.. try to loosen a bit of the stickiness of the masking tape b4 use...

Hi all, need infomation for whereabout in subang area that selling this Gundam Marker.
ady blur for few days finding this this thing in subang .

got a question,those mr.color need to use thinner or not? if yes,can use those normal thinner?

of cos... hobby paints use with hobby thinner unless u wan ur kit to be destroyed...
industrial thinner can be used for washing....

hmm have a question... will paints dry up if they are left too long in the bottle ? Cause i havent painted a gundam kit in like 6 months.... and all my equipment i left in the store room, kept in a box. Will it damage the paint / air brush in any way ?

make sure ur airbrush is thoroughly cleaned before u put to storage.
if got stuck, u gotta dismantle and clean it up.
prob an ultrasonic cleaner with ease clean up more


for mr.color paint, no worries.. just pour some mr.thinner and leave for days..
it will soften and re-melts the paint.
u better worry if u cant open the bottle

the older ones with the tomahawk head/cap easier to force open than the new flat head ones, no?

This post has been edited by madmoz: May 6 2009, 12:00 PM

if he's not refering to tamiya's acrylics
those once "locked" are damn hard to open..

u need hot water to loosen the harden paint at the cap... :-)

transparent kits...if we apply base coat on it..will it lose the transparent effect?

im thinking that i have the special version red frame.
like the red frame transparent parts but i dont like the transparent armor..if i apply base coat on it then spray white, i wonder it will be like normal armor

can i know where you guys buy your cutter set?
around wat price?
where can i get it cheapest in KL, Kepong or PJ area?
Btw, I'm newbie...
On learning.... ^^

^ check here http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/392450

for ur area..see under KL area --> "others"

This post has been edited by kurz: May 9 2009, 08:08 PM

Ok guys thnx for the replies. XD

well u can test try it on the remaining trees?

Finally i get myself a gold color spray can......


but can any1 show me which gold color is tis??is it the lighter gold color or darker gold color??

and if tis the darker type gold color, will it possible for me to achieve the lighter gold color with tis spray can??

and also is it advisable to only just use tis spray can without any of the likes tinner,primer, etc etc......??

i am intended to use tis gold spray can on my zhao yun.......

thanks for ya help.......

This post has been edited by GrandElf: May 10 2009, 02:52 PM

u can test this gold urself rite to know is it the gold u wan =.=

if u're using spray cans, then u dun nid thinner alr.. u nid thinner IF u wan to lean the paint...
AS ALWAYS, it's better to prime the kit 1st b4 painting it to make the paint stick better and cover any scratches done by sanding.