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Model Kits Model Kits/Toys Painting, Building, Modding Thread, where the 'deja-vu are tradition in here

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PowerSlide
post Mar 4 2009, 01:51 AM

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simple sanding and priming and using cheapo paints tongue.gif

will paint it black in couple of days

still learning to paint a gundam hope all goes well sweat.gif
Jenkins
post Mar 4 2009, 03:06 AM

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Uhm, guys. What's the difference between Mr. Surfacer and Mr. Prime sweat.gif. Since my hobby shop restock these things after a long period of time. When these things instock, I don't play kits at that time so I never try it before sweat.gif.

Beside, if I use the wet sanding skill (car paint) on the kits. Is it bad?
erh_teo
post Mar 4 2009, 11:36 AM

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mr surfacer = primer.
same same.

wet sanding will have less friction.
depends that u r doing, sanding can be all the way from 220 grid to 8000 grit and more.
proper sanding will give u sharp edge, less scratches, etc..
davelcm
post Mar 4 2009, 12:05 PM

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QUOTE(golbeza @ Mar 3 2009, 08:49 PM)
urmm, i have a few noobie questions here, hope all sifu can help  icon_question.gif

here goes:
i) must the Mr. Surfacer from bottle be mix with Mr Thinner? (coz all this while i've been using Mr Base White spraycan) tongue.gif
ii) what is Mr Lapras 6000 used for? (according to Hobby Japan March 2009, its used after colour the Shinanju, wont it damage the paint?)
iii) do i apply the decals after or before inking? or after or before spray the topcoat?

i think that's all for now, thanks  biggrin.gif
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i) Yes, Mr Surfacer will need to mix wif Mr Color Thinner.
ii) Not too sure what Mr Lapras 6000 is...so cannot help u there. maybe someone else can. since u asked if damage paint, i reckon it would be something like polishing compound...to make it shiny. if tat's the case, yes...it would if the paint and topcoat is too thin. just spray another coat or 2 of topcoat and base paint. but again, check wif ppl wat is Mr Lapras 6000.
iii) water and dry transfers...apply before doing panel lining. then top coat. but i do it this way, gloss coat then decal then another gloss coat before doing panel lining n finished off with flat coat.
Jenkins
post Mar 4 2009, 12:33 PM

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Thnx erh_teo.

About pla plate, I still dont' quite get it since in my place here doesn't have anything with that name sweat.gif. And it's looks like the hobby shop at China doesn't have it either. So pla plate = sheet of plastic, some sheet clear and some sheet not? And if it's just plastic then can I find anything to replace it? Use putty all the time makes my hands feel really tired sad.gif.
erh_teo
post Mar 4 2009, 12:42 PM

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order online lor.
it's not big stuff so if it's a must for u, shipping cost shouldn't be killing u.
yup, it's basically plastic sheet of diff thickness, usually PS (polystyrene).

in fact some plastic producing industries carries them, u might wanna check ur local shops for plastic traders.


Added on March 4, 2009, 12:44 pm
QUOTE(Steiner @ Mar 2 2009, 05:42 PM)
Heheh. Paiseh. ^^;

I kinda got the grasp of handpainting liao. Have to slowly put thin layer by layer then is the proper way.

Mark settler..gotcha. But dry decals also can use that right?

marker ah. Don't know my laoya hobby shop still got anot.  doh.gif So that means the small parts no need prime?

BTW, whats gundam real touch marker?

And nono not masking. Like I spray the circular object with topcoat liao, how to let it dry? Cant place it down ma otherwise the topcoat sure touch other surface before drying. blink.gif
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dry transfer just apply only, make sure the surface is flat, no need mark setter. mark setter/softer for waterslide decals only blush.gif

This post has been edited by erh_teo: Mar 4 2009, 12:44 PM
amirisme
post Mar 6 2009, 08:30 AM

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Hey, I wanna ask anyone know knows a trick to fix those stupid angle guard on MG strike gundams that keeps falling off. damn irritating. but scared if i glu it into place then kenot do proper poses
... gah? anyone?
erh_teo
post Mar 6 2009, 10:25 AM

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dun play with it lor... tongue.gif

This post has been edited by erh_teo: Mar 6 2009, 10:25 AM
amirisme
post Mar 6 2009, 01:38 PM

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HAHAHHAHA. no la... when ever i do the poses the thing keep falling. everytime have to stick back.. mafan...
erh_teo
post Mar 6 2009, 02:22 PM

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well actually that attachemnt piece is quite short, if u extend that attachment points, means u have to drill the holes further.

why not check out keita's SF, see what he did with that part..
if it's not modified.. then maybe u oso shouldn't be bothered at all... heheehe..


Added on March 6, 2009, 2:26 pm
here:
http://wonderexcellence.sub.jp/gallery/sflere/sflere.htm

seems like he used a yellow submarine ball joint wink.gif
see the 6th picture..


Added on March 6, 2009, 2:28 pmthe 6th pic (right bottom corner inset picture)

This post has been edited by erh_teo: Mar 6 2009, 02:28 PM
golbeza
post Mar 6 2009, 03:55 PM

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from the link erh_teo gave, the yellow thingy is putty. so what is the green thingy? green putty? tongue.gif
erh_teo
post Mar 6 2009, 04:09 PM

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putty got many type.
it's just general terms..
if i'm not mistaken, those yellow one is polyester, green one i'm not sure.

it's a putty oso but i'm not sure it's content. it should sand easier than the yellow one, usually to fix the flaw/hole on the yellow one.
Jenkins
post Mar 6 2009, 04:40 PM

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The green one.... hum I think that's mattit. Not everyone used putty to play with the seam line. Very easy to sand when compared with poly or epoxy putty brows.gif.
chinti
post Mar 8 2009, 05:56 PM

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wanna ask...anyone collect those EX model? 1:1700 1...the ship 1..how does it look like?isit nice?feel like buying those
z3r0717
post Mar 8 2009, 07:11 PM

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QUOTE(chinti @ Mar 8 2009, 05:56 PM)
wanna ask...anyone collect those EX model? 1:1700 1...the ship 1..how does it look like?isit nice?feel like buying those
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those ships require painting... without painting it'll look erm..... normal...
if u plan on painting then get them... just my 2 cents
evanrue
post Mar 8 2009, 10:13 PM

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Hi there everyone smile.gif

i have a problem i hope you guys can help me with. I purchased a Play Arts FF7 Cloud strife figure and had accidentally broke off the shoulder armor off the shoulder joints. Try using super glue but it didnt last and made some kinda white markings on the figure....

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am wondering if you guys know what kind of glue/adhesive which is suitable for PlayArts figure plastic.. smile.gif thanks
Demon_Eyes_Kyo
post Mar 9 2009, 09:21 AM

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Model glue is about the same as super glue, they melt the surface to make it stick.
evanrue
post Mar 9 2009, 10:31 AM

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QUOTE(Demon_Eyes_Kyo @ Mar 9 2009, 09:21 AM)
Model glue is about the same as super glue, they melt the surface to make it stick.
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smile.gif any particular brand to recommend bro? i dont want to use those household elephant glue, scared.. sweat.gif
nicholas84
post Mar 9 2009, 11:07 PM

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Hello
Anyone can help me?
My MG Hi-Nu leg joint is totally stuck to the hip unit
cannot twist the leg cannot remove also
when i tried to turn it, the plastic shows tremendous stretch marks
anyway to fix this? very heartbroken my hi nu like this



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Attached Image Attached Image Attached Image
davelcm
post Mar 10 2009, 11:24 AM

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MG Hi NU has very tight fitting. especially the joints around the crotch portion. is the kit snap fitted? if it is, disassemble the kit and check properly if u've used the correct parts. some small differentiation in size may result in extremely tight joints.

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