Hi, wanna ask is tat safe if spray lacquer paint on abs type plastic?
and is mr.whitebase can also be used as primer like mr. surfacer?
thx in advance...

safe as in?
which lacquer u refering? industrial or hobby?

mr. basewhite can be used as a primer only in one sense, to provide a solid color base before u paint on main color (usually ppl use it when they wanna spray white, yellow or red, otherwise use grey surfacer can already).
mr. basewhite "grip power" to plastic is weak. that is paint might peel off if used without surfacer.

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Added on February 27, 2009, 6:35 pmso if u wanna spray light color, duwan to hassle spray surfacer and then spray basewhite, use mr.surfacer white instead (only available in spray can though).
search in www.hlj.com, if u don't know how it looks like.

This post has been edited by erh_teo: Feb 27 2009, 06:35 PM

thx,erm...both of them hobby lacquer and hardware's on ABS.

Ok.. Tested 1 and it works!. But damn.. the 2 wheels are connected by a metal rod and no matter how much strength I use it just won't separate... Haih.. another headache to solve. This is from the very well made Hotwheels Ferrari FXX. Sometimes, it's good if certain things are not made this tight.

This post has been edited by nlik: Feb 28 2009, 06:11 PM


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hi guys, i'm totally new to model kits. Need some help here

i just bought a gundam 00 1/100, i want to know what kind of equipment you guys use to cut it off from the plastic. As i read from the pinned thread, you guys normally use special cutter and the plyer kind of cutter, but which is easier and better ?

and then got any guide on touch up ah?

read this yet????

http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/488910

hi,can i know if there is any Decal for 1/144 gundam for sale?where can i buy if have?thanks

just wanna ask something about mr Cement Deluxe. if i apply to 2 parts together, should i sand em right away or i have to wait till them dry first? How long will it take them to dry. And last one, what is the difference between some adhesives liquid? Coz i bought mr Cement Deluxe but my friend bought the Tamiya Extra Thin Cement

best wait overnight for it to fully harden before start sanding.

one is thick one is watery.
deluxe u apply 2 side like spreading butter, then put together and press.
thin cement u put to piece of plastic together, apply the cement through the gap/seam between the plastic and press. this one will have lesser "body/residue" if apply properly.

This post has been edited by erh_teo: Mar 2 2009, 10:58 AM

guys, recommend me a cutter, mine is rusty d. cheap and good one.

nail clipper. that's the cheapest cutter available. if want good, then it would be tamiya's cutters but costs RM60-80 per piece. other than that...anything else will do. hardware shop will have those cutter.

Thin Cement...as Erh Teo mentioned, u need to put 2 pieces close together. Not until they're tight but enough to have a small thin gap. then apply the thin cement. u'll see the cement flow through the seams. if it's not flowing, it's becos 1) the gap not close enough or 2) not enough cement applied. usually it's 1.

Thick Cement are easier to use in some way...apply on the plastic...n glue the 2 pieces together. Wait 1 day before sanding or after a while (approx 30 - 60 mins), take a sharp new blade, gently cut the excess off. you'll need to sand less than.

nail clipper wide enough and sharp enough to cut the plastics?

go buy the yellow bandai cutter la... or the whole set.. rm50 onli... if the cutter alone is around rm15 - RM20...

or go to any electrical shop, jln pasar at pudu there got alot.
many ranges of site cutter, cheaper than rm10 oso got.

nail clipper can cut or not ar? i started this hobby using nail clippers and NT cutter. so i guess...yes.

Me again with questions in tow. Thought I would share how my first handpainted job went before I get started.

Started the lazy way, painted the parts while they were on the runner. Started with the red jewel, thought the red paint look faint but decided to wait until it dried. Went on to the clear blue parts for the gn rifle. At first too light. Then smudged it brushstrokes. Wiped with thinner and mixed thicker paint this time. Started on the green parts. This part went thru alot of testing. Sometimes too light or too dark. Until once I tested the mix in clear water then remember it was a good way to get the right color. So got one I thought was good and painted all.

Went back to the red. Still too light so took some red out of the pot and painted the clear part from behind. Looked fantastic after it dried. Went back to light blue then chua tio. Got one oval shape where the paint was very faint. Thought I burned a hole there with too much thinner. Heng I was wrong so just whacked one medium blue mix and forgot about it. Went back to the green and it looked quite dark and uneven. Left it alone and went to paint the V fin in yellow. Not bad but got run over to the white part of the fin. Managed to wipe some but still got smudges. Oh well.

Assembled the 00 raiser over the weekend. Turned out the the red jewel and green orb parts managed to turn out really great when put together with the rest of the model. Yellow V-fin was alittle thin on the left. Alamak forgot to put more layers. But that was ok. Clear blue parts was ok too but the grey stickers in the middle didn't look so great next to the painted parts.

Think i did ok on my first job. Did some well, others not so good. Thanks for the advice given here earlier on. Will be improving my skills gradually. Pictures in the relevant thread when I get my hands on a camera..

So my next questions also on handpainting stuff.

Is it possible to handpaint gloss onto kits? Cos I know glossy surface better for decals to stick on but dun want to spray gloss topcoat twice.

And I'm going to paint the yellow parts of the Sinaju in gold. Is priming required for such a job? Cos I feel small parts don't really need to be primed and no more $$ for a can of primer after buying all the painting tools and stuff. So asking for expert opinion here.


EDIT: One more question I forgot. Any suggestions on how to topcoat circular objects? Example the Sinaju's backpack cylinders and the GNX-III's lance.

This post has been edited by Steiner: Mar 2 2009, 03:54 PM

waluaheh.. read ur story for no picture..

boss..
hand paint not easy.. now u know ler
one thing.. u still can get nice painting by hand brush though, but most problem is most people they just dun have the patience to do hand paint.
coz the few 2 layers will look like very ugly coz the color seem uneven.
so wat they do, whack a heavy layer.
wrong way to paint anything that way.


as long as ur surface is not rough/matt/flat, can use decal. just make sure u have mr.mark settler ready by side.

if u wan easy use gundam marker to paint the gold/yellow part on the sinanju small parts lar.


for circular subject, i suppose u wanna say "masking" round things?
get circular cutter to cut masking tape of the shape then mask on ur kit

This post has been edited by erh_teo: Mar 2 2009, 04:31 PM

Heheh. Paiseh. ^^;

I kinda got the grasp of handpainting liao. Have to slowly put thin layer by layer then is the proper way.

Mark settler..gotcha. But dry decals also can use that right?

marker ah. Don't know my laoya hobby shop still got anot. So that means the small parts no need prime?

BTW, whats gundam real touch marker?

And nono not masking. Like I spray the circular object with topcoat liao, how to let it dry? Cant place it down ma otherwise the topcoat sure touch other surface before drying.

circular like a ball? the surface where it should join the other kits...use double sided tape...stick onto a pla plate or something to hold it.

urmm, i have a few noobie questions here, hope all sifu can help

here goes:
i) must the Mr. Surfacer from bottle be mix with Mr Thinner? (coz all this while i've been using Mr Base White spraycan)
ii) what is Mr Lapras 6000 used for? (according to Hobby Japan March 2009, its used after colour the Shinanju, wont it damage the paint?)
iii) do i apply the decals after or before inking? or after or before spray the topcoat?

i think that's all for now, thanks