......
cut from runner...trim the excess stubs/sprue on the piece...sand the stubs. look at manual...see which part needs to cover seamline. plan to build to have seamlines covered. build...cover seamlines. spray on primer...check on seamlines...touch up on seamline and sand.... spray primer again....paint. gloss coat....put waterslide decals on (i don't use stickers). another layer or two of gloss after decals are on. panel lines on. spray on flat coat. weathering as per liking...THIS is how a model is built.

if u want snap fit...put ur sticker on after snap fitting.

i'm afraid u really need a circular cutter or a hole puncher for a perfectly round disc.
david has mentioned that cutting with a template is another choice but it need practice too.
u can get those plastic template with round hole that u can get from stationary shop (to draw circles of diff sizes).
use a compass needle to slow draw the shape out, keep repeating it until the circle come out from the plastic sheet.

if u are talking about making metal disc.. i'm afraid u need the knowledge of photo-etching..

both oso can.
usually apply in the end, coz apply too early u may scratch it or u feel u missed painted certain parts.
apply last stage is best.

first, make sure u understand the concept of how a gloss, to semi gloss, to flat works. otherwise later u ll be asking question like" how i make my semi gloss slightly more flat than gunze's"


gloss basically is clear, a transparent paint, which if u spray correctly, and treat the surface accordingly, it will give u a even surface, hence a gloss surface.

semi gloss is clear, but added with some very fine particles inside, so when the paint is dried, the particle in it makes the surface slightly more uneven surface, hence not so glossy.

Flat is even more particles inside, and the surface become even more uneven or rough, hence a matt or flat surface.

All these can be bought, with Gunze pre mix the ratio of clear n the flat particle.

As for those particles, u can still buy them seperately, to mix your own glossiness; which u can mix into clear or any other paint. This is bottled by gunze, and labelled as "flat base"


Flat base is basically very small particles, which in the bottle while it's still wet, it looks like paper gum. but once it's dried, the medium vaporised, u will find that it's actually like baby talcum. Therefore we only can use flat base mixed with clear or any other paint, for the paint will act as a bonding medium to "hold" the particle together.

So for your question, DONT SPRAY FLAT BASE ALONE! cause u ll get instant frosting kinda effect! mix with clear first.

Super flat is no problem, u can just thin it can spray cause it's premix.

P/S: if u really understand the concept, u wont be surprise that u can even add a little more flat base to the super flat to make more flat, or drop some clear it the super flat to make it ore semi gloss.



for brake disc, the best would be get a photo etch brake disc. Of course that ll be for those who can afford it.

to cut a perfect round thin pla plate, i m not a fan of hole punching, which i feel the edge is too much trouble to fix, and sizes r limited.


get a compass, try to get those better ones where u can lock it. use the sharp end to scribe line on the pla plate, slowly do it, like u r scribbing panel lines. but remember, u cannot scrib until the end where the pal plate will seperate. cause first, it will take forever, second, the line will be distorted by the thickness of the pla plate.

After u scrib quite a deep line, use cutter to cut a straight line, example:



Then u can actually peel off the excess pla plate, last step will be sanding off thosee extra fine pla plates. with the line scribbed earlier, use that as a guide so your circle wont be off.

for disc brake....just tot of something u can use. go buy button!!! variety of sizes n types. get round ones...with minimal groove. kinda like those u have on school uniform. seal n touch up from there. i.e. use putty n epoxe to cover. then sand to how thin u want the disc brake be. i think there're some pretty thin buttons available. so u can go try those. but be forewarned. i've never tried it. just thought abt it...

Too hardcore for me coz i'm not into any spray or painting.
Maybe i can follow what @erh_teo saying.
Apply sticker at the last stage.

hi, i finished "sanding" my new-built sinanju, but how do i 'sharpen' the spikes? (the one on the sinanju's shoulders)

sand sponge should help.......i think....

HI guys, i just like to clear up some more questions i have..

1 - Can sumone recomend me where to buy a good air brush (budget rm 600) in KL.

2 - Has anyone tried this Tamiya's Spray Work Basic Air Compressor with Airbrush*pix below* before? if so,is it good?

3 - Is Mr Hobby White Putty*pix below* suitable for covering gaps and emty spaces of gunpla models?

4 - Is there any cheaper alternative than using Mr hobby gray primer available in malaysian hardware shops?


Thanks dudes...

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Added on February 25, 2009, 3:29 pmEh?? what happen to the replies to my questions yesterday? Its like its deleted! ??

This post has been edited by shadowmorning: Feb 25 2009, 03:29 PM


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yalor.. but neverbind la.. u already got ur answer liao ma..

server roll out lor...

actually...i didnt write it down...coz i never imagined the post to be rolled out...pls repost the answer please!? ONEGAI-shimasu!!!

New to the forums here and joined for this thread lol. Have been doing simple OOB panel lining and painting with gundam markers for some time. Wanted to start on painting and this seems like a good place where I can ask for advice so here I am. Have a bunch of them I have kept in mind for the longest time.

First questions that come to mind..

1. Are there any difference in the brush used in handbrushing? Or will any old brush do?
2. Paints. Is thinner absolutely required to thin the paint? I'm thinking of painting my 00 raiser's clear parts with clear paint for example. I'm thinking of tamiya acrylic or enamel paint. Any advice to support or against the idea?
3. Tools to clean up the mess. I read around and found qtips and rubbing alcohol is the common solution but never any steps on how to. Just dab and wipe? Also any suggestions would be welcome.
4. I have read that it's hard to get even layers with spray paint? Just to verify that in case I get overambitious and mess up my Sinaju. =_=

5. Any preparation process for spraying topcoats? I know primer is required for paint but I haven't read anything about pre-topcoating models so another point I would like to verify.
6. How long does topcoat take to set? Ideally I would like to do it at home but space is tight. So I need an idea of the time frame to topcoat the entire model. And is topcoating done piece by piece or just spray the entire model evenly?

Alot of questions at one go so any replies would be appreciated, even if it's to just one of them. Thanks.

my opinion answers.

1-Well i used Nylon brushes which i bought at a local hardware shop for VERY cheap price.The flex very nicely when painting,so I recomend that kinda brush.U dont have to buy the expensive mr hobby or tamiya paint brushes,waste money lol.

2-hey,im also busy with a 1/100 00 gundam now too!! yes,i too want to try painting the clear parts with clear green paint.And i think im going to use mr hobby lacqer paint which require thinner.enamel also is good for details.water based i think not suitable for CLEAR PARTS.

3-cleaning tools? i just use cheap industrial thinner/spirit to clean brushes and tools lol.

4-SHIT MAN!!! DONT USE SPRAY PAINT!!! UNEVEN PRESSURE AND HORRIBLE RESULTS IF UR NOT EXPERT IN IT!! IF U NOOT CONFIDENT DONT USE THIS "EASY WAY" out to finish ur lovely sinanju! i killed my first exia with spray paint!! so i just stuck to handpainting first,sloe,but = nice results!

5-i dont understand this question that much but simple processes u can follow are
a)sand n cut nubs> Wash parts with warmsoap water> handpaint parts >topcoat(either handpaint it or buy the topcoat spray cans)

b)sand n cut nubs> wash>primer>handpaint>topcoat.

6-topcoat can dry properly in less than one hour time outside the house for me.and i spray separate parts like the leg,arm,torso separately so i can cover all properly.

PHEW! Here u go. This is all my opinion and expericence of course!

This post has been edited by shadowmorning: Feb 25 2009, 06:20 PM

just for u man!
1) i believe there's 1 or 2 thread selling airbrush set under garage sale. go find it.
it's been mentioned few times in this thread, click post by this member (it's right upper corner in my post)
or try davelcm, rayloke or any that u find normally replying in this thread. their reply usually helpful.

2) i heard the handpiece is good for wide area spraying (topcoat and primer), quite limited for fine works.
the compressor is really a small type not intended for heavy-duty use. heats up easily and each working time not more than 30mins.

3. can. best to apply to seamline or narrow gap. big gap (bigger than a peanut) try bondite, polyester putty.

4. cheaper of course got, but my advise go for mr. surfacer (1000 or 1200). it's the best to be used honestly.
u use industrial one sometimes it's too strong can damage to plastic, it's too thick oso, u must master the spraying from can to avoid loosing of surface details.

Noted. Tamiya brushes go for 3-6 dollars at the hobby shops I frequent, which tend to be limited in tools. Cheaper options are always welcomed.



Nah. 1/144 00 Raiser. The clear part on the rifles clear blue. The body clear parts green, the forehead clear part clear red. For solid colors, the V fin in yellow and grey for the cheeks.



Noted.



Relax man. I just wanted to know if spray paints are hard to use and you validated it nicely.

Slowly working my up way with handbrushing first to gain experience of course.



Is it ok if I just dump the entire runners in soap water before I start the cutting and assembling process..?

And it's greatly appreciated.


@erh_teo: Thanks for the fast reply but you replied in my quote so abit hard to reply you back.

Ya I've read about the thinning ratio in a thread before. 3:7 or 1:1.. I'll go back and check again. Will any type of thinner do? Or is it a must to match the thinner with the paint? Eg aqueous paint with aqueous thinner,nanamel paint with enanamel thinner.

And clean up as in cleaning up hand painting.

Roger that, will go read more how to spray from cans. And I think I didn't phrase my question about topcoating clearly. Can I say just take any model, spray topcoat onto it and the result will be fine?

Hey, thanks for the feedback and ideas! I'll try both methods.U got a quirky mind to think of buttons.. must have been influenced by the pussycat dolls. Will post the results here if I get it right.

OK...yes gain some xperience handpainting with water-based acryilics first.i wash it like this;i first fill a basin with warm water+soap,dump the parts in,and i use my fingers and "scrub/polish" the parts.alternatively,use a soft facial brush or sumthg. BTW,yes,a thinner must match with its paint type,eg...enamel paint+enamel thinner,acrylic paint+water(best for beginners ),and lacqeur paints+thinner.just to remind u,can spray painting is terrible,coz of the shit smell,uncontrolled amount and "debris".it destroyed my first exia and zeta("KISAMAA!!!")
Ahem.

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Added on February 25, 2009, 8:57 pmdude,i also wanna know,can u post the thickness of the several pla plate availabe? u noe,the thickess so i can compare and buy.

This post has been edited by shadowmorning: Feb 25 2009, 08:57 PM

shadowmorning, pla-plate can get from tkting. go pm him.

steiner, no problem dude.
by the way, as for a beginner for painting gundam kits, i got few advice.
if u plan to paint small parts/area, ur best is to hand paint.
u can use water-based type as mistakes can be easily corrected with window cleaner. worse case strip with window cleaner oso no problem as window cleaner has no effect wt plastic and primer.

if u use mr.color (solvent based) and enamel (enamel thinner or turpentine), screw up could means paint stripping. ur only options are hobby thinner (industrial thinner will melt plastic), or brake oil and the process is troublesome.

if u intend to paint the main armor (let say sinanju, red).
my best advice is to either leave the plastic as it is or paint with can spray preferably hobby can spray.
if u leave the plastic unpainted, u may stil topcoat with mr.topcoat (try avoid mr.super clear can spray as it's solvent base), if u screw up can oso remove with either window cleaner or methylated spirit (can get from ACE or most hardware).
of course, spraying with hobby can spray is usually very easy.
the key is to avoid over spray.
usually when we spray we tend to "wet the whole plastic with paint".
it's very risky. unless u want a glossy finishing, u need to do a wet spray (wet the whole plastic with paint).
industrial can spray is notorious to easy over paint as the flow is stronger and the paint is also thicker.

just get some can spray (hobby and industrial), try out on some scrap plastic on various way of spraying and u've soon be familiar with it.
trust me, can spray is easier to master than handpaint.


also, it's adviced to wash ur kit parts just before painting, no point washing the whole runner becoz during assembly and cutting process, it's where u make the plastics dirty.



as for topcoating, the concept is same with spraying with can spray.
if u spray on assembled kit, make sure certain parts is bend again (joint) to recieve the dosage of paint.
or paint the parts in sub-assembly, plan ahead lor.

Haha alright then. Thanks for sharing your experience with me.




Ya painting small parts first. I definitely want to paint all the clear parts of the HG 00 Raiser in clear paints. And maybe gold for the Sinaju's yellow vents. Should be ok for a beginner right?



Ya avoiding those paints first. Planning to use tamiya acrylic and thin with acrylic thinner. Or is water fine too?



Haha I read in one of the links in the building or gallery thread about a spray painted Sinaju so just asked here whether hard to do or not. Turns out it is risky but I had no intention of spray painting my Sinaju's main armour anyway. Screw up will heartbreak sia. x_x

Maybe for a future project ba. HGUC Nu gundam or 1/100 Astraea Type F is what I have in mind.

Oh ya makes sense. Thanks for all the help. Greatly appreciated.

almost welcome.
for the clear parts dipping, i heard some model aircraft guys dip in 50% thinned clear paints for tinting canopies.
u might wanna try to thin ur clear green (is it clear green coz i'm OO noob) wth 50% acrylic thinner. dip it, lay on a piece of tissue towel to soak excess paint.
may need to repeat 2 to 3 times to get a nice tint.
that way u won't risk having ugly streaks from brush painting.

tamiya?
good.. buy their thinner.
u may try methylated spirit or rubbing alcohol, it dissolves tamiya paint.
water works too, with some small small small addition of dish detergent.
but u need to try out wt tamiya own thinner, compare the results of using other thinner.
if it's acceptable, carry on.
if u keep having trouble, means just wack wth tamiya thinner. save all the problem and fuss.