either mark softener or mark setter..
mayb got other option? but in my pool of knowledge.. don't have.
u can try google it.
hopefully got answer within google.
Model Kits Model Kits/Toys Painting, Building, Modding Thread, where the 'deja-vu are tradition in here
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Feb 19 2009, 01:05 AM
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Junior Member
117 posts Joined: Jun 2005 From: My Mom |
as i know...macam tak ada
either mark softener or mark setter.. mayb got other option? but in my pool of knowledge.. don't have. u can try google it. hopefully got answer within google. |
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Feb 19 2009, 09:34 AM
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Junior Member
14 posts Joined: Apr 2008 From: SERDANG |
QUOTE(erh_teo @ Feb 18 2009, 02:17 PM) simple question with tough answers to follow.. ert teo, thanks a lot man...material u can use for parts lengthening: 1) pla-plate (plastic card) 2) bondite (epoxy putty) 3) polyester putty (mori mori, tamiya) can browse here for the product info.. http://www.hobbiescorner.com/index.php?cPa...&sort=2a&page=2 http://mgs2u.com/forum/37265/ tutorials: http://plamo.outthere.info/forum/showthread.php?tid=432 http://z3.invisionfree.com/Zero_G/index.php?showforum=42 hope it helps.. and thanks to z3r0717 for t extra info abt Keita mods which ive also been wondering abt im bored of doing OOb stuff n now im trying to venture doing mods. i'll start slowly first n mybe start off sacrificing my SD units before my MG's(expensive maa |
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Feb 19 2009, 11:12 AM
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Junior Member
7 posts Joined: May 2007 From: de'caves of rock! |
QUOTE(shadowmorning @ Feb 18 2009, 11:09 PM) Hey guys im new here...hey if u dont mind,can u guys help me with my doubts? U see,i came across Keita's 00 and Exia gundam and wow they were awesome.Thing is...does anyone> you are so funny man 1- ...know what mr hobby paint did he use to paint the white,blue and gray parts?It looks like he used water based mr hobby paint but thats impossible coz it looks so cleanly airbrushed. 2- How did he do the ORB's green yet shininglike painting? 3- Where to get pla plate in KL and how to use it? Pls show me a vid coz the pics look easy but not enuf exposure. 4 - which type of tamiya putty to use to extend parts slightly and fill gaps?? 5 - does anyone here recomend the TAMIYA RM591 airbrush coz mabe i wanna buy. 6-when airbrushing,can i use industrial thinner coz mr hobby thinner damn expensive. 7-does anyone have any idea how he modified the head of 00? 8-how to scribe new panel lines? pls give the answers in this format of numbers if posible.im asking many questions at once so i wont be keep on bugging evryone evrytime. BELOW ARE THE PIX EXAMPLES RELATED WITH THE QUESTIONS. THANKS for helping,take ur time to answer please,sorry im new to this... as for yiha.. u r asking thinning paint for brushpainting or airbrushing? for airbrushing is usually thinner:paint 65-50%:34-50% u need to adjust urself as diff ppl tend to have diff preference.. |
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Feb 19 2009, 01:11 PM
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Junior Member
241 posts Joined: Nov 2008 From: Kuching Sarawak |
QUOTE(erh_teo @ Feb 19 2009, 11:12 AM) you are so funny man Yo erh_teo,as for yiha.. u r asking thinning paint for brushpainting or airbrushing? for airbrushing is usually thinner:paint 65-50%:34-50% u need to adjust urself as diff ppl tend to have diff preference.. If i use brushpainting, then wat would be the mixture ratio ar? |
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Feb 19 2009, 04:28 PM
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Junior Member
7 posts Joined: May 2007 From: de'caves of rock! |
QUOTE(KyoLee @ Feb 19 2009, 01:05 AM) as i know...macam tak ada microscale's microset (equivalent to mr.mark setter) & microsol (mr.mark softer). try online hobby store.either mark softener or mark setter.. mayb got other option? but in my pool of knowledge.. don't have. u can try google it. hopefully got answer within google. apart fr xlshop, can try contact multifilla, iirc they do postage. http://www.multifilla.com/Contact.htm QUOTE(Yiha9944 @ Feb 19 2009, 01:11 PM) mixing ratio shud be lesser than for airbrush, i'm not too sure wt the ratio.u shud thin the paint "thin" enough for u to brush the paint without much restriction (not viscous). bear in mind the 1st layer should be ugly as u will end up wt patches of deeper and lighter. u have to repeated paint the layer (allow drying per layer) until the whole thing doesnt show patches. to have one layer painted in one solid color will require thick paint thinning, which will definitely show ugly brush strokes. just thin it until u find it's easy to paint. the paint thinner is better than thicker. u need repeated 4-6 layer to get a nice paint job done |
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Feb 19 2009, 06:09 PM
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Junior Member
241 posts Joined: Nov 2008 From: Kuching Sarawak |
@erh_teo
thx 4 ur lesson...i'll definitely try it soon... This post has been edited by Yiha9944: Feb 19 2009, 06:09 PM |
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Feb 19 2009, 08:33 PM
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Junior Member
185 posts Joined: Feb 2009 |
Actually,im not THAT new to Gunpla. I can do all the OOB stuff like,sanding, cuttin off nubs, handpainting...now i wanna go level 2-intermediate. Things like AB, primer-ing, modding, custom paint and especially PLA-PLATING. VERY difficult to find a video guide for pla-plating.
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Feb 19 2009, 08:53 PM
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Senior Member
5,511 posts Joined: Jun 2006 From: On Earth. |
its depend on trial and error... and lots of imagination....
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Feb 19 2009, 09:26 PM
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Junior Member
34 posts Joined: Sep 2007 |
QUOTE(shadowmorning @ Feb 19 2009, 08:33 PM) Actually,im not THAT new to Gunpla. I can do all the OOB stuff like,sanding, cuttin off nubs, handpainting...now i wanna go level 2-intermediate. Things like AB, primer-ing, modding, custom paint and especially PLA-PLATING. VERY difficult to find a video guide for pla-plating. 1. start cutting pla plates. meaning, do lots of practice, and fail probably a couple of time, then u will start to get the hang of it.2. make friends in gunpla, i mean friends in real life. try try try, then any questions ask ask ask. if even he cannot answer, then it's even better, both of you can try try try, and share share share. |
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Feb 19 2009, 09:44 PM
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Senior Member
5,511 posts Joined: Jun 2006 From: On Earth. |
in other words.... if you are in KL... then can go meet zero-g guys where they have yumcha every week...
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Feb 19 2009, 11:30 PM
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Senior Member
2,239 posts Joined: Jun 2006 From: K.L |
seriously, pla plating can't be teach or shown...
u gotta learn urself by experience or watching others.... Trial and Error is ur key... never try never know... |
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Feb 20 2009, 12:25 AM
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Junior Member
118 posts Joined: Oct 2008 From: Johor Bahru/MMU Cyberjaya |
hi...can talk about GK here?
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Feb 20 2009, 09:55 AM
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Newbie
0 posts Joined: Jan 2009 |
QUOTE(madmoz @ Feb 18 2009, 02:52 PM) one question... actually 2... airbrushing for an MG kit...external armor only would use up 1 bottle of paint. even conservatively...i.e. dark colors and minimal coats would use up about 1/2 to 3/4 of the bottle easily. light colors use more paint becos usually need more coats to cover the primer. and the bigger the kit, the more paint u use. Sinanju, Unicorn would require more paint then say a Zaku II or a RGM.been working on my first MG and almost done with the inner frame, but is it normal to use up almost one whole bottle of mr color paint? that would also mean that i would need to get more paints to finish up the outer armor? how much paint bottles per mg anyways? I'm normally an SD person so i would like to know internal skeleton...i use abt 1/2 bottle of steel. or any metallic color mix u want. but this is hard to gauge for me as i've mixed this into a big bottle i.e. surfacer bottles. |
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Feb 20 2009, 02:29 PM
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Junior Member
7 posts Joined: May 2007 From: de'caves of rock! |
when i'm thinking where to get a video demonstrating pla-plating technique..
i was thinking to myself.. who the hell would be doing that man seriesly.. pla-plating techniques are nothing more than cutting pla-plate, gluing pla-plates, removing joint seams and glue marks. the rest are design issues like what size and shape to cut, where to put, etc... all which the mentioned steps need to do pla-plating techniques are in fact the basics of modelling.. okay.. honestly speaking.. and no offense to everyone here that is going to venture far from doing OOB (out-of-box) stuff.. let me comment abit about non-OOB build (that is modifying ur kit, adding detailing stuffs, etc).. whether u are doing a gundam, a mecha or any plastic injection kit, it's a modelling hobby. u can't run away from doing the basics like proper cleaning kit parts (that includes cutting, sanding and correcting any fault or flaw on that kits), gluing parts, cover/removing seamlines, and painting it. those that which are part of the basic steps to modelling are also applied to when you are doing something non-OOB like kitbashing, using after-market resin parts/conversions, adding koto-parts, metal, pla-plate, putty, and other detailing stuffs. u are doing to deal with alot of test-fitting, covering mistakes/holes/gaps/seams and cutting marks which are part of the basics such as cutting/sawing, gluing parts, sanding. if u still glue/cementing parts and the glue mark showed in the painted kit, u have probably not mastered the basics if u sand ur parts but it still showed in the painted kit, u have probably not mastered the basics if u cover seamline and sand it but the "filled area" still showed up in the painted kit, u have probably not mastered the basics if u primed ur kit but u didn't check for errors, u have probably not mastered the basics if u painted ur kit and it look terrible with paint crack, peeling, orange peel and rough pebbly surfaces, u have probably not mastered ur basics yet this are the basics many do not seem to follow (or just too lazy to follow no matter how complicated or "canggih" you have modify your kit but it lack some skills.. i believe even a passerby (laymen) will think a nextby OOB kit that has been properly constructed and painted will attract his/her interest more. asking where and how to use/buy certain materials (pla-plate, detailing stuff and tools) is often helpful as not everyone is equiped with the right resources to start their modelling hobby. same goes with how you guys get ur inspiration, from who and where, etc. i can say, it's all there in the internet. it's unlimited. dengeki hobby is also helpful. in fact i don't mind sharing this as many of the forumers here have been sharing nice nice works oversea with poison pictures in this forum section. but asking how to mod a kit.. how to answer most importantly, i think most of the people probably have learned all the basics. it's useless i'm going into great length here as learning and applying what u have learned are TWO different things. i learn more than i need to know when i started modelling and still i'm still learning that it's more important to put that what u've learn into practice. if u want to build something nice, think of the things that u've learn in the past, have u perfected it? if yes, then it's time to move on. if no, do more models lor ps: if moderator thinks i'm going OT, please remove my comments. thanks.. |
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Feb 20 2009, 04:13 PM
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Junior Member
34 posts Joined: Sep 2007 |
well said, erh_teo, well said!
During the early days i just started modeling (even until now), I only do OOB, and my target is always those review kits in Dengeki Hobby or Hobby Japan. To create a kit as clean as what i see in the magazine is always my challenge. I always imagine if my kit be featured in the magazine, would it pass the editor's or even the readers' eyes. And yeah, it's tough. As for erh_teo and i, though we both have started modding our kits, when we meet up and chat about modeling, there'r still many times we r actually discussing about the most fundamental stuff; eg, how to sand our kits and still maintain sharp edges etc. As for example how good an OOB can be, i think one can go check out plamo's WOOB online competition, which is still going on now, and with quite a number of beautifully done kits. All those are without any modification (no adding a single piece of pla plate or after market parts). Or u can even check out erh_teo's (still havent finished) kit. See how the surface work is supposed to be done. To me, OOB is the best way to practise the basics. |
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Feb 20 2009, 04:31 PM
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Junior Member
7 posts Joined: May 2007 From: de'caves of rock! |
thank's rayloke for the compliment..
actually.. it was the urge to modify kits that keep me working back on my basics.. and i'm still learning how to improve.. i know it's hard to persuade somebody new in the hobby to do basics.. coz basically it's boring.. it's just like somebody who play those video game in the arcade, why usually the champion who signed their name their got the 1st, 2nd and 3rd, and so on.. coz they have been playing the "same game" for so long and so many times.. in modelling.. there's no magic.. only two things: 1) technique 2) practice |
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Feb 21 2009, 11:34 PM
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Junior Member
225 posts Joined: Dec 2006 From: Kuantan |
i was wondering..if i can apply
Gunze Sangyo - Mr.Color - Aqueous Hobby Color (H40 Flat Base) Flat because previously i was using industrial coating with gloss finising(arcylic lacquer -- toa spray).. i wanted flat to cover the gloss but will this do the job.. or do i have to get this Gunze Sangyo - Mr.Hobby Color - Solvent-based Arcylic paint colors - No.182 - Super Flat (clear) |
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Feb 22 2009, 01:34 PM
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Senior Member
876 posts Joined: May 2006 From: Klang, Bukit Jalil |
Hi modellers,
I am trying to make scale disc brakes for a model car. Anyone knows the best way to get a perfect round disc and from what material? I am aiming probably for the size of a 5 cents coin. I don't have access to a circle cutter and hobbyknife scissors won't get a perfect round shape. Thanks |
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Feb 22 2009, 10:02 PM
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Newbie
0 posts Joined: Jan 2009 |
QUOTE(decarusz @ Feb 21 2009, 11:34 PM) i was wondering..if i can apply seriously, try it on a plastic vcd box or a pla plate. then u'll find out if u get the result is u want. Gunze Sangyo - Mr.Color - Aqueous Hobby Color (H40 Flat Base) Flat because previously i was using industrial coating with gloss finising(arcylic lacquer -- toa spray).. i wanted flat to cover the gloss but will this do the job.. or do i have to get this Gunze Sangyo - Mr.Hobby Color - Solvent-based Arcylic paint colors - No.182 - Super Flat (clear) oh, not too sure wat 182 is but yes, if u do the base paint on. then gloss coat it with industrial clear...before finally dulling it wif Super Flat (Clear), it would work. Added on February 22, 2009, 10:12 pm"I am trying to make scale disc brakes for a model car. Anyone knows the best way to get a perfect round disc and from what material? I am aiming probably for the size of a 5 cents coin. I don't have access to a circle cutter and hobbyknife scissors won't get a perfect round shape." use pla plates aka plastic plates. if u want it thin...u can use those phone cards...same quality. to make circles? u know those drawing templates with a lot of circles on them? use them...slowly scribe the circle on the plastic plate...keep digging into the plastic until u can get the round piece out. This post has been edited by davelcm: Feb 22 2009, 10:12 PM |
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Feb 23 2009, 12:15 AM
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Senior Member
8,415 posts Joined: Nov 2005 From: Malaysia |
Wanna ask, normally for decal when do u guys stick it to the models.
Build part by part then apply sticker or Join all together then apply sticker or Cut off from the runner, apply sticker first before snap it? |
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