itu belakang lampu brek kuat cantik. berapa satu set?

my FC is about 25 sen/km

my 4wd mitsu triton makes about 15 sen/km on city driving. now, that's freaking impressive

don't be fooled. the gauge has one interesting feature


correct. the waja fuel gauge has this dodgy problem

let's say at FULL, your tank has 100%

at 4/4 bar = 100%
3/4 = 60%
2/4 = 30%
1/4 = 10%

that's about how much you will get with the lying fuel gauge

OK. today, my OEM batt kong.

so i replaced the battery

I know beforehand that if you disconnect the battery, you will somehow screw up the ECU

so, after I changed the batt, i test run the car and everything is fine. even gear change is at the correct rpm

but what the hell, if i put the gear in neutral (or drive), and lift off the throttle, the engine idles to below 500rpm and then spuuters and dies. WTF! it's an automatic tranny

so, i guess i gotta visit PESB to re-map my ECU. shit. how much will it cost? and who has replaced their car batt? d u have the same problem?

really ka? i'll try first

yes, it learns by itself. but this one problem, the idle RPM is very very low - around 400. and anything below 500, the engine stutters and die

tried babylabbit's method. it seems to work now. the engine don't die, and now idling at 600rpm. the optimum idle is at around 750rpm. maybe i'll disconnect the batt once more and try his method again later

but rm 100 for re-mapping is really too much lar... c'mon. what's so expensive about it? just plug a handheld computer (pda), select car model and type and just let it do its job

Nissan Service Center did once for me for free (my x-trail, not waja) and even do a full ECU diagnostics for free. gonna mod my ECU and plug in a 12v cell on it so it won't lose any setting after this...

This post has been edited by lucifah: May 27 2008, 10:54 AM

well, so far so good. the idle rpm has raised to around 700rpm, and no dead engines so far since this morning. still, quite jerky gear change. maybe after a few days of re-learning my drving style, the invecs gears should be up and running as usual

babylabbit's method saved me some bucks. damn... this info must share with everyone one so they know next time. dunno about campro engine though.

now, need to change my super dirty air filter (since day-1 tak penah tuka lagi)

This post has been edited by lucifah: May 27 2008, 07:25 PM

and make a bulk purchase. i know i will need 3 pieces - one for the front nose, one for the boot, and one for the steering wheel

still waiting for my monochrome proton badge inquiry from bola segiempat

18" tyres are freakingly expensive. in the range of 300 - 400+ each

unless you can get very light wheels, your FC for sure suffer

and with all low profile tyres, the risk of getting easily punctured or dented wheels are there

plus, you need to lower your springs - an 18" wheel on stock waja spring will lift your car an extra 2 - 3", it will look funny and affect handling

most will go for 17" since 16" is alang alang

just changed my tyres today. did a wheel alignment but steering still loose

the culprit? a worn out set of steering rack bushes

how much does it cost to replace them?

my tyre shop quotes me around rm80 for both bushing + labour. it should take 1+ hours to complete. price ok?

280 - 350 per piece

as comparison, a 15" tyre cost about 170 - 220 each

so, if you go for bigger wheels, be prepared to spend

won't do any good. i got both my front shock absorbers and top mounting replaced just after 2 weeks of getting my car. didn't solve the problem

the culprit? check your brake caliper and pads - loose screws or squeaky metal. apply copper grease. luckily i don't have to pay any single sen coz under warranty




warning: be careful with the copper grease. once you kena the brake pad surface or your disc, then say bye bye. very tough to remove, so u have to buy new replacement parts

i had the same problem like yours a few weeks ago. just replaced my battery and the car engine dies when idling

the trick, as one of the forumer suggested, is to rev your engine to 2k - 3k rpm for 5 - 10 mins. then everything will be ok

dunno what happen though, it works. sure beats paying the service center to remap the ECU

so, today i went to PESC. met a friend and did my ECU tuneup for free (actually, buat diam2 w/o telling the boss). result is great. a finely tuned ECU means better acceleration for me now and silky smooth gear change

anyhow, on the other news - the new black & white proton logo cost about rm 20-24 per piece. the steering wheel logo is taken from waja steering wheel while the bonnet and trunk logo will be taken from saga BLM.

who will be first? takes about 1 week for PESC to order. another 10% discount for staff purchase

i had the same problem. just replaced my dead batt a few weeks ago. and then, my car just doesn't feel the same. sluggish performance, erratic gear change, even after a few weeks

was reluctant to do the ECU tune up

2 days ago, sent my car to PESC for periodic service. met a friend and asked him to do it for me for free (PESC charges ECU tuneup). they use a handhled computer. takes about 25 - 30 mins since they need to adjust the throttle manually (unlike campro, which is 100% software adjustable).

now my engine is nice, gear change is silky smooth. so, if you can get someone inside PESC to do it for you for free, go for it.

uh oh... i forgot to mention, mine's a 4g18p auto tranny. not a stick shift

the auto tranny is really screwed up and the engine acceleration is sluggish after i replaced my battery. and the engine dies even if the lever is in neutral! (of course, the rev-up-your-engine-to-3k-for-ten-minute trick did work, but it did not solve my jerky gear change)

how difficult to install ah? wanna get one, but i heard quite difficult to do

berapa itu harega? any steering wheel logo cos that's the only logo that i stare at all the time

is anyone driving proton chancellor aka waja executive? damn... that car is sooo rare, and i dare say, it's the best and most expensive proton production car ever - handles far better than perdana