eating grass because it's healthier than meat

eating grass for... erm... currently nothing to buy. viewed the gitzo carbon in cathay last week and to my dissapointment, it weights almost the same as my manfrotto 055. why bother then. sigh!

dowan lah. the 1 series is not as sturdy as my 055.
i needed something in the size and stability of my 055 but light weight. hehee!

my tripod has been with me for the past 12 years. it's still as sturdy. i can fit my whole large format and the lenses and film holders and light meter and everything into this computrekker. it is this tripod that i find it abit troublesome in carrying it.

sigh! just got to accept the fact that tripod is as important as films to me.


This post has been edited by ifer: May 21 2008, 08:44 AM

it's all pissing contest to xandman, photography seem to be.
wahahaa

so between you and him, who peed furthest?
or whose is bigger?

why get ultra II why not extreame III 2GB.
one for rm 100+ only

why not credit card installment it? 0% somemore

ohh depends on how u look at it.

i pay rm 650 each month for a year. and i get like some money from freelance and stuffs and i can use this money to pay the installment fees.

if i am without the computer, i can't get those jobs done and hence, without the money to purchase the computer or lens.

again, it depends on individual.

if you are like the rest of the members here, or most of the members here, buying top of the range gears not because u need it and because u want it, then u should save the money until u have it then only u buy.

ohh that proves that some of the members here are using their camera equipments to do business.. not just to take flowers and leng lui.

so no need to keep the money until got edi then only buy.

start by getting simple jobs. then once your reputation is out.... people will start to find u

depends on what u are good at.
can start with taking photos of your sis and her friends... you know, girls like those kinda posing pics and stuffs.
then maybe relatives wedding and stuffs...

do all this for free or for a cup of starbucks frappucino.

i think u should..
coz fullframe and cropped frame is different

you are a super leng lui photographer.
you need to have a lot of equipments in order to maintain your status

take public transport loh. easy

KTCY, is there a 20mm VR? i think you mean 200mm VR. this lens cost a cool rm 13,000 right?

as for me, i am thinking of changing my tripod head. i am using the manfrotto 141RC. wanna change to gear head!

but it's not in your wish list leh... wahahahaa

i do. or i used to do. heck, i used to teach people doing it.
how can i help?

wow. it's easier if i show it to you in person. thing is, this thing comes with experience. that's the reason why u see some people have their own way of doing it.

i will try to answer best i can

1) You get bag, put film in, pull it out in bag and put it into loader. Put loader into tank. Close dev tank.
do you have those film changing bag? do you know how to retrieve the film leader from the film canister? do you have the film developing tank? which type of developing tank are you using? metal or plastic? one roll or 2 rolls of film tank? are you processing one roll or 2 rolls?

prepare the 3 baths of chemical before starting. then the developer has to be in the precise tempreture before u start. best is have a stop watch with u too. if you are using plastic developing tank. 1 roll of film prepare 400ml worth of solution. 2 rolls is 600ml.

2) Add development chemical (question : i've seen people pour warm water in before this, do it or not?)
i need more information on what type of film developer you are using. do note that there is a paper developer and film developer. and of course to process film, use film developer. but still, i need to know what type of film developer are you using and what film are you using. you mentioned ilford delta 3200. is that the film? no such thing as pouring warm water. people pour warm water to expand the film so when you pour in ice cold fixer, the film will crack. it's a special effect that they wanna get. renticulation or something like that. i don't bother. tempreture has to be at 20 celcius SHARP! in a nutshell. different film developer, different dilution, different film, different tempreture will give u different time for processing.

start time on stop water the moment you pour in the chemical.

3) Shake for a specific amount of seconds (question : Really that specific? Some dudes, shake once and leave, some shake once a minutes? Which is better?)
example: my total processing time is 5 minutes. what i do is:
first minute: agitate/shake it non stop
remaining 4 minutes: let the tank rest on the table for 40 seconds and agitate/shake for 20 seconds till time's up
method of agitation/shake: some do 180 degree terbalik technique. some spin the tank clockwise/anti clock wise.
up to you. i am more comfortable with the 180 degree terbalik technique.
mind you, harder you agitate/shake: higher contrast (over develop) it becomes. too soft and it will be lower contrast (under develop) oh oh and if wrong technique, air bubble might form on the film and caused undeveloped spots on film... wahahaa

4) Wait for a specific amount of time (Question : I know the development time influences the exposure, but how accurate must you be in regards to this? How much variance for say +0.5EV? on sat Ilfrord Delta 3200? Is it calculatable?)
mentioned it above (3)

5) Drain tank
5 seconds before time's up, drain the tank. don't take too long to pour in the second solution.

6) Now i've seen different people do it differently, but some either use acid or water for the stop bath, i'm not really sure which is best and what each version does.
best is use a photographic stop bath. it's acid. and smell like vinegar. it's sharp and poke through your nose. i mean the smell. i used to ask my students to get vinegar. yeah. eating vinegar but the colourless wan. don't get those black colour wan. but vinegar is very weak compare to stop bath. you need a stronger dilution for this.

7) Add fixer. No questions here.
get the ilford hypam. best fixer out there. of course the powder type is cheap but ppffttt.

8) Add Cleaner and Wash (Question : some guides don't mention the cleaner and just the wash? How Essential is this?)
i don't bother with the cleaner. it's call hypo clean bath or something like that. if u use this bath, you save water and time and money. if don't what i do is you wash your film for 10 minutes, in running water. you are allowed to open the tank after the fixer as your film is err fixed. leave the films in the film roller and turn on the tap and let the water flow. beware of bubble attaching on the film though. pour the water away every 2 minutes for a complete change of water. but do let the water flow all the time for 10 minutes.

9) Add wetting agent? Erm, 100 percent tak tau anything about this part.
wetting agent is like a soapy solution but of course dont use soap or detergent or softlan. they contain oil. the best is the kodak wetting agent. ilford's smell like cum. i am serious. unless you want your film to smell like cum if not, go for the kodak. you only need 1-2 drops. damn strong. then err... i dunno what the technique call but u take up and down the film together with the roller. like teh tarik for 30 seconds.

10) Dry and enjoice.
do you have a professional film dryer? if not, becareful of dust sticking on it. if yes, not too hot. 400w is ideal. 800w will burn the films. usually take 20 minutes. then cut the film from the back. number 36 onwards. do not cut the film from 1 onward.

i am blur edi. it's not that hard to be honest. if you are in malaysia now, do let me know and i don't mind showing it to you on how to do. or supervise you. wahahaa...



This post has been edited by ifer: Mar 3 2009, 02:31 PM