Your double poll switch is 63A, but the elcb is 40A. You should used 63A elcb as well normally. Do you used water heater as well, if yes, you should used separate Elcb for the heater, sensitivity rated 0.03.

Yes I have 1 water heater.

I also have a vitroceramic hob besides a built in oven.

What does a 63A double pole switch do?

Double pole is to cut off incoming from meter both N & L before going to the ELCB.

Hmm so what should I do then?

if your load is more then 40A, then you should change the the main ELCB, also i would recommend to put in another ELCB for heater.

Sure.

Rccb will be better. It have to wired on the output to the water heater. Not in the distribution box.

RCB or RCD?

The electrical wiring has been done and electrician is from outskirts so how do I just settle the AMP load? As I plan to install 1 more aircon for one of the guest room over the next few days.

Currently, I havre 1 aircon and 1 water heater for MBR alone other than the oven, vitroceramic hob in kitchen.

yes, but many Malaysian i notice don't really know's about putting additional safety for their WH...

The reason is simple, all Water Heater comes with ELCB built in. So electrician just provide one 20A isolator switch. Adding a RCCB will be too bulky and customer complains about it.

Anyway to learn more about the electrical safety circuit breakers. Refer here :

http://electrical-engineering-portal.com/w...b-elcb-and-rccb

yes that's true that most wh comes with elcb, but we do still hear ppl get electrocuted. a proper stand alone elcb/rccb cost more than rm100, and we are not sure about the quality that comes with wh units as well. also a proper 13A socket is suppose to be paired with .03A sensitivity RCCB instead .1A sensitivity RCCB which is common practice in MY.

Talking about branded ones is from "HAGER". One of the most reliable and branded. Cheaper albeit goes to "MEM" recognized by Britian since the British colony time.

A proper water heater plug is round pin which is rated 15A not our ordinary 13A BS13 plug. Usually the MCB that connects to it rating within 16A to 20A.

Usually available RCCB is valued at 0.3A nobody is too crazy to get 0.1A as is too sensitive and you get pissed off.

There is even RCCB electronically controlled sensitivity range from 0.1/0.3/0.5/0.7/1.0 but is very pricey.

Sorry bros, I'm a little lost here.

Simply put, what should I do to set my ELCB to 63A from 40A if necessary and should I just keep or change the 63A double pole switch?

The heater points and air con points are 15A sockets with 20A gang switches.

Firstly, changing your ELCB rating from 40A to 63A is not as simple as plug n play. You need to check whether your incoming cable diameter able to coup with it or not. If it can't coup it, might just burden the cable.

The ELCB didnt control the Amp flowing. It just state there that it max can handle is 40A.

The wire shouldn't be problem. Since your main fuse is 63A. It well over the rate.

ELCB no need to do anything, keep that 40A, lower will be always better.
Did it simply trip every now and then without lightning strike? If not that's mean you are not pulling true >40A yet.

Bro, have not moved in yet due to ghost month.

Will have to see the the electrical movement when I have moved in. May have to wait a little longer to move in as a major problem came up.

Hopefully? Thank you bro.

Will monitor first and decide whether to change or not. Thank you for your advice bro.

Don't take the wire for granted. Is advisable to check the cable core thickness and make sure the Main fuse is really rated for 60A or 32A (the fuse box beside the electrical meter). There is also a big chances there is no HRC Fuse inside the fuse box. Just one strip of copper wire to act as an fuse. It happens in a lot of housing area. I wonder where was the supposed HRC Fuse goes...