Nov 17 2008, 10:55 PM
QUOTE(zulzaraeen @ Sep 9 2008, 12:17 AM)
the usual terms use for denims/jeans:
Distress - Wear and tear on the denim. Can be in the form holes or abrasions to fades or creases. The wear and tear can be natural or artificial.
Hem - Where two pieces of fabric come together. A selvedge hem can be seen here.
Honeycomb/Whiskers - The effect when a stiff denim is repeatedly compressed and after wash a unique fading will result in a pattern of a honeycomb. This picture shows the honeycomb before a wash and this is how it looks like after the honeycomb area is washed. This effect usually occurs behind the knee. This effect also happens under the waist and other places and is called whiskering.
this is honeycomb
this is whiskering
Raw - Refers to a wash, in this case no wash at all. A raw pair of jeans means that the cotton is spun into threads in which are colored and woven into cloth. This cloth would be made into massive rolls of fabric in which a pattern is laid on and cut and sewn to manufacture a denim product, in this case a pair of jeans. The cloth will be cut, embroidered, riveted, folded and sewn together in the production process. After all of this production a raw pair of jeans will be folded up and sent out to be sold. The wash of jean will be rigid and stiff and will give off a slight sheen as the color will be very dark.
Rivets - Placed in high wear places to provide added strength. Usually made of copper or brass they are punched on the corners of pockets and other parts of a jean. Hidden rivets are common as well innovated and popularized by Levi Strauss.
Selvedge/Selvage - Term commonly used to refer to denim that has been produced on a shuttle loom. Since the amount of fabric produced from a shuttle loom is significantly narrower than a projectile (wide) loom, the cotton consumption is higher and the time required is greater. In selvage jeans, you will see the actual edge of the fabric where the weaving stops and is finished by the loom, as opposed to denim woven on a projectile loom, where the fabric has been cut off at the ends.
Soak - To dip your jeans in lukewarm water by hand. This can be done in a tub or a small sink. This is to shrink denim or wash denim. The hotter the water the more shrinkage will result. Dry via high heat will further shrink the denim material pending the denim is not preshrunk. Cold water and hang drying will result in minimal if any shrinking. Wearing the jeans while in a tub will shrink the denim as well. This will prevent the denim from shrinking too much and will shrink the jeans accordingly to the wearers body.
Starch - Often used to stiffen up a jean. This allows for less movement in the jean and is commonly done to promote creases as creases will fade different when washed giving a unique look.
Preventing bleeding - The high end material (exotic/african cotton) and the vintage dye and the dye process will give you the deep color and fade characteristics that are exhibited with raw and/or selvedge denim. The color usually will rub off or bleed onto lighter clothes or furniture. The only prevention is to repeatedly wash off the dyes until the material doesn't bleed anymore. The other method if you don't wish to wash off all the dye is prevention. Keeping denim dry and also taping off the cuffs of your jeans so the denim material from your jeans don't touch the top of your shoes.
Shrinking denim - The hotter the water and hotter/longer the dry cycle the more shrinkage you are going to have on your pair of jeans. The shrinkage is dependant on the materials resistance to shrinking and how it was treated and the thickness and the amount of pre shrinking that was done on it. Levis STF jeans usually shrink up to 2 inches in the waist and 3 inches in length depending on the size of the jean.
what is mean by STF??Distress - Wear and tear on the denim. Can be in the form holes or abrasions to fades or creases. The wear and tear can be natural or artificial.
Hem - Where two pieces of fabric come together. A selvedge hem can be seen here.
Honeycomb/Whiskers - The effect when a stiff denim is repeatedly compressed and after wash a unique fading will result in a pattern of a honeycomb. This picture shows the honeycomb before a wash and this is how it looks like after the honeycomb area is washed. This effect usually occurs behind the knee. This effect also happens under the waist and other places and is called whiskering.
this is honeycomb
this is whiskering
Raw - Refers to a wash, in this case no wash at all. A raw pair of jeans means that the cotton is spun into threads in which are colored and woven into cloth. This cloth would be made into massive rolls of fabric in which a pattern is laid on and cut and sewn to manufacture a denim product, in this case a pair of jeans. The cloth will be cut, embroidered, riveted, folded and sewn together in the production process. After all of this production a raw pair of jeans will be folded up and sent out to be sold. The wash of jean will be rigid and stiff and will give off a slight sheen as the color will be very dark.
Rivets - Placed in high wear places to provide added strength. Usually made of copper or brass they are punched on the corners of pockets and other parts of a jean. Hidden rivets are common as well innovated and popularized by Levi Strauss.
Selvedge/Selvage - Term commonly used to refer to denim that has been produced on a shuttle loom. Since the amount of fabric produced from a shuttle loom is significantly narrower than a projectile (wide) loom, the cotton consumption is higher and the time required is greater. In selvage jeans, you will see the actual edge of the fabric where the weaving stops and is finished by the loom, as opposed to denim woven on a projectile loom, where the fabric has been cut off at the ends.
Soak - To dip your jeans in lukewarm water by hand. This can be done in a tub or a small sink. This is to shrink denim or wash denim. The hotter the water the more shrinkage will result. Dry via high heat will further shrink the denim material pending the denim is not preshrunk. Cold water and hang drying will result in minimal if any shrinking. Wearing the jeans while in a tub will shrink the denim as well. This will prevent the denim from shrinking too much and will shrink the jeans accordingly to the wearers body.
Starch - Often used to stiffen up a jean. This allows for less movement in the jean and is commonly done to promote creases as creases will fade different when washed giving a unique look.
Preventing bleeding - The high end material (exotic/african cotton) and the vintage dye and the dye process will give you the deep color and fade characteristics that are exhibited with raw and/or selvedge denim. The color usually will rub off or bleed onto lighter clothes or furniture. The only prevention is to repeatedly wash off the dyes until the material doesn't bleed anymore. The other method if you don't wish to wash off all the dye is prevention. Keeping denim dry and also taping off the cuffs of your jeans so the denim material from your jeans don't touch the top of your shoes.
Shrinking denim - The hotter the water and hotter/longer the dry cycle the more shrinkage you are going to have on your pair of jeans. The shrinkage is dependant on the materials resistance to shrinking and how it was treated and the thickness and the amount of pre shrinking that was done on it. Levis STF jeans usually shrink up to 2 inches in the waist and 3 inches in length depending on the size of the jean.
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