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 Perodua Kenari User Club V1

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GRexer
post Nov 4 2008, 10:57 PM

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Seems like this thread is a bit inactive...

Anyway... was wondering if anyone had pictures of the Kelisa/Kenari brakes? As in, wheels off pictures. Would appreciate it if anyone has it. Thanks.
GRexer
post Nov 30 2008, 05:59 PM

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QUOTE(kev da man @ Nov 25 2008, 11:20 AM)
will be removing my brakes for a BBK, want picture of them like that? tongue.gif

anybody here interested in APM performax springs? im giving away 2 month old kayaba excel-g (rear only) with them
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Juz noticed your message, didn't subscribe to this thread la laugh.gif

It would be great to have a picture of the bare knuckle with the hub only(discs and caliper removed) so that I can see if it can be adapted onto the Kancil instead of drilling the stock knuckles.

QUOTE(ravewar @ Nov 28 2008, 10:21 AM)
hi there.

I've just recently gotten a used, dead stock Kenari auto, yr 2000, as a daily drive.

after driving for a few days...i realized that it's kinda wobble during cornering, and seems that there are alot to change....bushings, etc etc...

there're too many pages here...so I'd like to ask, as a Kenari user...

1) If I were to upgrade rims...what offset to look for?
2) are kenari springs interchangeable with the kelisa's?
3) any other recommendations to get the kenari to a nicer ride feel and increased safety...
4) any difference between the L9 turbo calipers/rotors and the stock?

thanks in advance
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1) Went to see the "steel" rims ady or not? laugh.gif Buzz me la when you come over.
2) Kenari springs should be interchangable with the Kelisa, in fact, even MyVI and Kancil springs can be used! They are all of the same mounting dimensions(the rear probably u need to change the rubber bushings that hold them springs in place), just different spring rates.
4) Difference between the L9 turbo calipers and stock is between ventilated(L7/L9) and non-ventilated(stock) rotors, also maybe different pad surface area, piston size should be more or less the same. I wouldn't actually recommend the L7/L9 stuff, pads are freaking expensive! We are talking about RM150-200 range here even for the normal Bendix GeneralCT, I found out about this the "hard" way when i swapped in these Japanese brake set into my Kancil, asked around and it seemed the L2/L5/L7/L9 pads are all costing nearly twice as much as the normal pricing for even the same make and model of brake pad. A good upgrade would be the MyVI brake set, considerably plug and play the last I checked, don't even need new brackets machined out. Only thing you need to worry is probably finding a used set without warped rotors.

And i'm still on my quest to look for a used Kenari myself laugh.gif I want the early model but kinda thinking should I get the later model just for the rear seatbelts.
GRexer
post Dec 8 2008, 03:28 PM

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QUOTE(ravewar @ Dec 3 2008, 09:40 AM)
@kev,
thanks for info. will search for the fella in zth.
as for the rear wiper, where(and how much) to get the "nicer" one ar? anyone in LYN selling?
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The new styled rear wiper can be bought from spare parts shop, I think nowadays ever Jusco or the other Hypermarkets sell it as well, but workmanship kinda shoddy, after installed looked like senget sebelah, not to mention it always become a target of being stolen, I end up retaining the steel unit on the back of my Kancil and used a better quality wiper instead laugh.gif

QUOTE(zackskate666 @ Dec 3 2008, 04:54 PM)
guys,newbie here...
do u all know how much is the price for the front absorber mounting..because my right side had kaput already..now feeling the like the car is not position correctly and the right side is higher than the left side...
and also,if u know the estimate value,u must also know the place it located right??..

thanks in advance to all sifu's..
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Normally if it's kaput, you'll hear sound emitting from the front whenever you go over uneven stretches of road. A quick check would be to open the bonnet and peek inside, the side which had gone kaput usually juts out more than the other side. I might be afraid it's probably the left side unit kaput since you mentioned the right side is higher. Estimate value, for original unit, is around RM70-80 if not mistaken, non-original ones go for around RM30-50 depending on brand, that's pricing for the unit alone, not inclusive of installation, which is around RM10-20 depending on where you go, it'll be the same price as changing the absorbers since you'll have to remove the whole unit anyway.
GRexer
post Dec 16 2008, 12:29 PM

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Converting manual to auto would actually be kinda more complicated than converting auto to manual.

The reason is that a manual to auto conversion would also need the automatic transmission's ECU(or transmission ECU as well if you car has 2 different ECU for the engine and transmission), whereas for an auto to manual conversion, the ECU is optional but optimally would need the manual ECU as well.

Chances are you'll need to find someone willing to swap with you and can leave the car in the same workshop for a few days together with your car to be easier for the workshop to get it done, as parts taken out would be swapped directly to the other car. I believe if you expect someone to top up with you for the swap is probably impossible as the swapping fees itself bare by each owner is already quite a sum.

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