If you're running your Dyns in active mode or any other type of 'huge' 2-way frontal speakers, you do not need to install amps higher than 'true' 50W to 65W rms per channel. My 2 cents opinion here.

i feel that its not performing at where it should

i guess, its because my power cables not adequate.

I am still at 8gauge, on the other hand, my system adds up to be 1100 watt rms already.




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yeah sorry its Tru T03-2250 hehe..03 series, i think its discontinued already.

but i guess, 150watt rms per channel should be sufficient right? (for the mid drivers only)

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Added on June 27, 2008, 6:34 pmserious? 65W rms is enough already?! hmm. i am giving it 150RMS per channel to the mid, and 100RMS per channel to the tweets!



This post has been edited by oshann: Jun 27 2008, 06:34 PM

Overkill bro, if your setup is not performing than it's got to be some configuration problem or even hardware problem. You may need to evaluate your whole setup to make sure they all match.

r u serious... to high rms... must be realy hard to tune..

there is one installer that told me i am stressing my amp out. i also not sure man..

i guess, i will go ahead and change the powercable, and review the results!

i will change installer, and ask him to rewire everything

With your current hardware, would presume some configuration problem which I doubt your new installer will wanna touch. He may ask you to replace some 'spoilt' equipments.

You're using 8awg cables, of course you're not putting enough power to the amp itself, thus, not 150W rms to midbass, and 100W rms to tweets.

Change to at least 4awg. There will be alot of difference.

Aren't you contradicting yourself by offering your amp which has lesser output than what you have recommended???

Btw, what car model is this ICE installed to?

Its a Mazda 3~


Yeah i think i gona change straight to 0 Gauge welding cable, any one have any advise on that?
i IMHO think that welding cable is cheap, and serve the same purpose

i have one installer in mind who do a very good job, i gues just have to let him have a couple of other job done, like tuning, and pillar (change) done.

Real 4-gauge audio-spec cables is good enough for most amps unless you're into rediculous competition SPL. Configuration of your power cables are also factors which need to be address here as it's all about getting the 'juice' to your main hardware as efficient/fast as possible which also include re-wiring within the original supply areas from the baattery & alternator.

yawnn........ 4 post... and all 4 towards me. U might be better off giving TS some suggestion.

If u ask me, I think an Audio System F2-300 (2nd hand less than RM1000) will do if budget is the main consideration here. Although severely lack of headroom but as far as I am concern, I think it is adequate. The ball is in your hands and mnkh is right, the more power you feed it, the merrier it is. Since you are prepared to invest in these drivers, why not allocate sufficient resource for the amp to give the speakers a justice.

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Added on July 3, 2008, 9:14 amIf u ask me, I think an Audio System F2-300 (2nd hand less than RM1000) will do if budget is the main consideration here. Although severely lack of headroom but as far as I am concern, I think it is adequate. The ball is in your hands and mnkh is right, the more power you feed it, the merrier it is. Since you are prepared to invest in these drivers, why not allocate sufficient resource for the amp to give the speakers a justice.


This post has been edited by robinhood: Jul 3 2008, 09:14 AM

-edited-

This post has been edited by bafukie: Jul 3 2008, 01:44 PM

It's true, the more W u feed, the better. But, it is more true that the QUALITY of the W u feed. I mean the Tru he offered, has the quality, no doubt.

110w RMS per channel from Tru is nice.

By the way, equipments comprise half the story only. Why not explore other ways like installation and tuning first prior to changing your equipments. You will be surprised the amount of improvement you obtained. Lastly, 2x110w from the Tru Billet (on passive) is no big deal compare to JL300/2 and Audio System F2-300 (on active). Perhaps, not even close. Lastly, the cost of equipments doesn't really signify how good a system should sound. Personally, I have heard many systems that sound better than those who have invested 3 to 4 times more.

Hm, I think in the previous post, we already solved his problem with the Power Cables problem?

And, he did state that, he is not happy with the amps he is currently using. How can you justify, he won't be happy with the Trus just by your own personal judgement?

I guess, bafukie and me is trying to help the person, but well, someone else here is just trying to do not only to help, but to do otherwise to those who's trying to help.

Didn't you just said it is merely personal judgment??? Have I ever mentioned that he will never be happy with the Tru amp?? Lastly, you do not need to insist you are trying to help if that is your true intention and sincere. My friend, it is indeed not too wise to promote your stuffs by contradicting your own stand and belief. Shoot me if you want and this is a free & democratic forum. Everyone is entitled to their opinion as long as they expressed their piece of mind in a civilized manner.

Okay, sorry.

yup yup...hehehe guys relaxs, i found a installer whos willing to do the job for me, as for my tru tech that was offered by the previous installer,

its a TruTech T03.2.250, i heard from other audio gurus, they say the amp is not worth the price tag of 1800sgd.

moreover, they are oso runnin dynaudio, and feeding the mids with 50w of power, and it sounds good. so i guess, installation plays a part.


this installer i am going quite good, no pushing of goods. will be putting my car for him to review, and after that, i will listen and see how good it is! lol

finally, i am going to listen to true dynaudio!

will keep u guys updated with the result ok?