i just bought my first elec guitar pacifica 012 with 10% discount from yamaha music shop in almanda...

but keeps buzzing so i was wondering do i need to do dis truss rod thingy?

loose or tighten??.. and the bridge does it nid any adjustment?

it's a combination of bridge and truss rod. Quite a complex to explain in words.

If you don't know what you're doing it's better to send it to a luthier. Or google it. There are plenty of websites about trussrod adjusments.

This post has been edited by Bassix: Mar 12 2008, 09:07 PM

ok i already adjusted it but no buzzing any more.. but the e string too much movement.. whut do i do? lower the bridge thingy??

what do you mean by too much movement?

I think he means too much action.

Usually to stop fret buzz with the truss rod, you loosen the truss nut, which gives more relief to the neck. Now, when that happens, you also increase the action, especially at the 12th fret. Sub-optimal.

The ideal way would be, as Bassix says, to use the saddle and truss adjustments, as well as neck tilt adjustments, in unison to hit a sweet spot where the action remains very playable, and with no buzz at any point on the neck.

Bugger this, it's hard to explain. Send it to the shop.

yeah but the truss rod not only tilts the neck at angles, it also affects the curve of the neck. Sort of like bending it into a bow. Can't remember the technical terms for it. But yeah it is a play of trussrod and bridge adjustments. It takes quite a long time to get it right.

since its your first, its expected that you'll be lost.

so ask yourself this.
where is the buzzing? all across the neck? along a certain string? certain frets? how sure are you one of the frets is lower / higher?

just cos theres a buzzing doesnt mean you have to attack the trussrod right away.

Neck angle tilt is different than truss rod relief. On a Pacifica, this is achieved by shimming the neck pocket. Ideally, it doesn't have to be done, but sometimes corrective measures are required. Then comes the truss adjustments and saddle work. Shim the front of the pocket to decrease action, shim the back (rarely though) to increase action. Shims have to be thin, a small increase of a fraction of a degree affects the nut area dramatically. The sweet spot is when the upper registers have a nice low action, and when the frets closer to the nut play without buzz due to sufficient neck relief.

This post has been edited by Roland San: Mar 13 2008, 09:24 AM

lol "attack" ok.. i know... menyesal... i think i shud have adjusted the bridge onli but i adjust and now u know wat happen? the screw is loose im very noob lor... now nid to buy new saddle haizz....

You know those multitester meters they use to test for conductivity and etc ? Those used by engineers.

Get those, use them, great stuff for detecting fret buzz, and find exactly which fret is the one buzzing.