380 complete set with OEM Matsushita ballasts

For all 35W ballasts, OEM is the brightest.

this is caused by pairing a newer bulb with an older bulb if they are OEM or if they are ciplak bulbs, then it's quality issue.

This post has been edited by Omnipotent: May 13 2010, 01:51 PM

bosch does not manufacture HID...they have a separate company called Automotive Lighting (AL) for it.

clearly it is a cheap fake

mine is OEM but 2nd hand la...bought from a forummer here. if you're not sure OEM or not, you can post a pic here and I should be able to tell.

this is not OEM HID, one of the obvious reason is that they are not D1/2/3/4 S/R bulbs

yes...fyi, michiba is not exactly an OEM manufacturer. neither does PIAA. Both are considered "expensive ciplak stuff" in the automotive lighting world.

my next tire change will be 60 series Premacy LC.

ya...old already...too bumpy is bad for my backbone

don't trash the gb...keep it below 4k rpm and change ATF every 20k kms, AT filter every 40k kms. ATF cooler is also a must if it does not come with one. Mine 130k kms since new still swapping gears smoothly and quietly.

hi bro, what problems did it give u? latest atf change was my 4th time since i switch from proton atf to diaqueen...i think it's slightly better than proton atf...but have not experienced how good is toyota type IV or synthetic atf....anybody can share more on this?

would love to give type IV a try....anyone can recommend where to get genuine stuff (besides toyota sc)? i hear it's cheaper than diaqueen...

i see...sorry for you bro that diaqueen didn't work out for you...i'm sure u have phobia of it now...heheh

just curious, did you somehow get a ciplak/recycled diaqueen? it's funny that it can cause such damage since it is made with the same spec as proton atf and i'm not surprised if proton atf has the same formula as well but manufactured in diff country

hi guys, just wanna update you all on my brake problem...Previously using Bosch Power Plus.. now changed the pads to Trestor Advantage...the vibrating problem seems to have disappeared...not sure if the pads are still new...just done 3000kms...hope the smooth braking lasts...

I've had the priviledge to own both Waja and Perdana V6 and below is my personal opinion:-

- Waja's technology is newer: digital odo, integrated 3rd brake lights, projector headlamp, easier booth access (wider and lower), split fold rear seats, 12V power supply (separate from the cig lighter), beeping "car key still in ignition" reminder, beesting antenna, steering mounted radio controls, 6 speaker ICE, scissor frame power window module, larger ATF sump (~ 4.5 ltrs), retractable roof mounted hand rails, car key with integrated alarm remote

- Waja's driving characteristics are closer to continental feeling (stiff ride but not harsh), high driving position, high shoulder line, curved side mirror (driver's side) to reduce blindspot, small diameter steering wheel, left side lights control stalk

- Waja's parts are particularly weak and do not stand well against normal usage: power window module, door handles, steering wheel rim plastics, door lock mechanism, fuel lines, pulleys, radiator, alternator

- Waja's known and popular issues: power window, door handles, alternator, fuel pump

- Perdana's quality is much better: softer interior, better grade plastics and switchgears, longer lasting parts (power windows still good after 8 yrs), less sound from interior parts, smaller panel gaps (mine at least)

- Perdana's driving characteristic is more towards comfort and refinement: smooth and relaxed (at high speed) V6 engine, leather interior, all round multi-link suspension (F1 technology lol), low drag coefficient 0.26 (still one of the lowest in it's class by today's standard) resulting in low wind noise/resistance at high speed, cruise control, better noise insulations

- Perdana's known and popular issues: AT overheating, ABS system


Other Waja/Perdana owners can add/share on the above as well...

is it? then i must take extra good care of my seats...

yes, i agree it is comfortable...i sleep in the car for 2 hrs every morning and never get backaches...

is it? no such thing happen to my 8 yrs old V6. The engine holds 5 ltrs of engine oil, but I only use 4 ltrs (dipstick showing slightly above the mid level of min and max) and check it weekly.

for my car, the ABS warning light is the only annoying problem. When it lights up, there's no ABS and the car brakes like normal car without ABS.

i think he meant the torque convertor

leaking happens if the car bottomed out and hit the oil sump. if normal wear and tear should not happen unless you use paria replacement gasket

the torque convertor is on the opposite end of the GB oil sump, there's a drain plug to release oil as well. normally when changing ATF oil, my foreman will unscrew this plug and further drain the ATF. gasket leak can either be caused by:-

- physical damage such as oil pan hitting the ground when driving over speed bumps
- using non ori gaskets
- did not use gasket sealants when installing new gasket
- did not install the oil pan properly (gasket slipped out of place during installation or not screwed tightly)


high pressure will not cause gasket to leak (for normal wear and tear) because any pressure buildup will be released from the ATF dipstick inlet (happened to mine)

the oil pan made from very tough steel leh...i dun think it can puncture...maybe the impact is too great that the screws around it bent out of shape like what happened to my ex-colleague's V6